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PriusPlus-Instructions

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Revision as of 00:29, 14 July 2007 by Cewert (talk | contribs) (dis-assembly of prius, installation of some parts)
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Click show for a short list of the current PHEV conversion and kit options for the Toyota Prius.

For Prius conversion details see the Prius PHEV article and comparisons table.

  1. Ron's Original PriusPlus History and current Contactor Based PriusPlus documentation for DIY projects.
  2. Ryan's PriusBlue is the testbed for DC-DC PFC Based PiPrius kits and documentation for DIY projects.
  3. Toyota OEM Prius PHEV and Prime Could use some work on this page
  4. Enginer China. But the rest of these appear to all be defunct as of 2020?
  5. |~- Hybrids-Plus USA/Colorado/Li -~|~- EnergyCS USA -~|~- Hymotion USA/Canada -~|~- Amberjac UK. -~|~- EDrive USA -~| Peter mentioned Plug-In Conversions |~-

--={ Project Overview }={ 2007 Maker Faire }={ Theory }={ Instructions }={ Parts List }={ RawData }={ Latest News }=--
--={ Doc Process }={ Mechanical }={ Electrical }={ Electronic }={ Interest }={ Talk:PriusPlus Main Discussion }=--

--={ Historic }={ Battery }={ Schematics }={ PseudoCode }={ Photos }=--

Team Photo from the PriusPlus conversion of Sven's Prius from Nov 2006.

This is the home of the PRIUS+ PHEV DIY (Do-it-Yourself) documentation. These pages are currently anonymously editable, which may change in the future. Please feel free to use the Discussion page for general discussion and commentary on the main article. If you would like to add to an existing section use the "edit" link near that topic's heading. Don't forget to use the Summary field to describe your changes. While editing use the "Show Preview" button to make sure your changes look like you expect them to, before you click "Save Page".



Welcome to the PriusPlus Do-It-Yourself documentation. Below you will find details on converting your 2004-2007 Prius to a plug-in hybrid via the PriusPlus method. The documentation is laid out in three parts. The PriusPlus gives an overview of the conversion and lists benefits, limitations and normal operating behavior. PriusPlus-Theory gives details the theory behind how the conversion works. The PriusPlus-Instructions page (this page) gives detailed, ordered instructions on how to convert your Prius yourself.

Choosing a Mouting Method

Before getting too far, you will need to decide on a mounting method. Currently, there are 2 methods, each with their benefits. The majority of the instructions are the same for both methods, however, some sections will be labeled as "classic mounting method" and others as "alternative mounting method" and contain instructions for the specific method.

Classic Mounting Method

The "Classic" method is the classic CalCars style. The spare tire well is largely unchanged, the batteries are placed in the very rear of the trunk, an electronics tray is placed in front of the batteries and the charger is placed in the left cubby hole (the carpeting in the cubby hole is cut back.) This method allows for easy access to all the electronics, including the charger.

Alternative Mounting Method

The "Alternative" method seeks to maximize usable trunk space and minimize visible changes. With this design, the batteries are moved as far forward as possible and the supporting electronics and charger are located in the spare tire well. The batteries stick up through the false floor, but are flush with the Prius's floor. Most of the high voltage electronics are isolated from the low voltage electronics, however some of the high voltage electronics and the charger are more difficult to access because they are below the batteries (they tend to be the more reliable parts, however.) The low voltage electronics are easily accessible.

CAN-View & EV Mode button

Overview

Start by installing CAN-View. CAN-View gives you insight into how the Prius works and it is best to have it installed before doing the conversion. Please see PriusPlus-Theory for more information on what CAN-View and Prius EV Mode Button do and how they work.

You will need to purchase CAN-View from hybridinterfaces.ca. There are currently 4 versions of CAN-View available. Version 3 and 3plus require an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or MFD) while Version 4 and 4plus work with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) Version 4 has the PHEV relays built onto the main board, while version 3 has an extra optional PHEV relay board, which is required for this conversion. Version 3plus and 4plus feature a smart relay board which can interact with battery regulators. At the present, the PriusPlus conversion method does not make use of the smart relay features in the "plus" models.

Installation

Approx. time requirement: 45 minutes - 2 hours

The CAN-View is installed differently depending on whether or not your car is equipped with in-dash navigation. Detailed instructions with photos are available with NAV or without NAV. It is best to install and route the wires for the Prius EV Mode Button at the same time since they both require disassembling the dash.

ToDo the following section is shared with the PiPrius_conversion_process#CAN-View_.26_EV_Mode_Button documentation. Any changes should be generic enough to satisfy both, place project specific notes above or below it. Another set of instructions may be needed for the CAN-View Version 4 which does not integrate with the OEM MFD and gets power directly from the OBDII port, Prius CAN View V4 Mounting options at PriusChat.com covers various ways of mounting the second touch screen.

Installing the CAN-View Version 3 and Prius EV Mode Button both involve disassembling the same areas of the Prius so will be covered here at the same time. You should also be familiar with these cv#reference materials.

We begin by disassembling the dashboard. cv1 cv2

  1. Remove the bottom cover of steering column
    1. Releasing the steering wheel adjustment handle and removing the silver screw.
    2. Turn steering wheel 90 degrees to right and left to remove black screws on each side.
    3. Remove the lower cover by carefully pulling down on lower half.
  2. Disconnect the headlamp flasher plug on left side of steering column.
    1. Remove plugs cover by unlocking two side tabs/clips.
    2. Remove 3 unused connector pins using a jeweler's screwdriver to disengage and slide them out.
    3. Optionally to use the headlamp flasher circuit as an EV Mode button:
      1. Solder some length?? of black wire to a new pin and use it to replace:
      2. The Red(#11-B10) wire to preserve day time flashing function, will disable night time flashing. It has been discovered that this does not work properly as the red wire is used for both the high beam and flash functions when the lights are turned on, thus disabling high beams at night. Anyone who has implemented this option should reinstall the red wire, moving the ev-mode button wire to the violet wires location instead.
      3. The Violet(#17-B4) wire to preserve night time flashing function, will disable day time flashing.
      4. Route new black wire along existing bundle then towards center console to later meet up with OBDII cable.
    4. Snap the cover back onto the flasher plug and reinsert into switch.
    5. Reassemble steering column, be sure everything is aligned properly.
  3. Remove lower glove box by squeezing the inside sides together to lower box below catches, then unclip the small piston from right side. Lower box until the lower joints detach from dash, remove pneumatic cylinder noting it's orientation.
  4. Remove passenger side silver air vent cover by pulling out from the bottom first. Next remove the small interior colored piece just below the vent piece by pulling straight out.
    1. If installing CAN-View Without Navigation: cv3
    2. Remove drivers side air vent cover, press down and pull out on top.
    3. Remove lower center console hump with 12v lighter power socket, remove barb from passenger side, pull out.
    4. Remove air vent at right side of MFD screen, open upper glove box to pull out vent.
    5. Remove lower drivers side interior colored dash panel, one black screw above hood release, one exposed behind drivers side vent.
    6. Remove black lower dash key fob panel, leave hanging with wires connected.
    7. Remove upper drivers side dash panel with power button, leave wires attached.
    8. Remove air vent at left side of MFD screen, the shift lever with remain in place, detach and slide park button forward through silver panel to expose and detach cable, then remove the panel and reattach the park button to it's cable to prevent errors during later tests.
    9. Remove 10mm bolts, one on each side of MFD screen, pull screen out sharply and rotate towards drivers side.
    10. Tap grey OEM wire for 12v power, top row 2nd from the left.
    11. Attach CAN-View video cable to MFD and power spade to tapped grey wire, run cable out directly behind screen.
    12. Connect CAN-View OBDII cable to OBDII port and route cable behind center console towards glove box along with headlamp flasher ev-mode button wire if installed.
    13. Test CAN-View, then reassemble center and drivers side of dash.
    14. CAN-View will be mounted under passenger seat, above JBL amplifier if present.
  5. If installing CAN-View With Navigation: cv4
    1. Route OBDII Cable around foot well and down drivers side door sill to underneath drivers seat. Route headlamp flasher ev-mode button wire if installed behind center console and glove box.
    2. Tap grey OEM wire from navigation unit for 12v power.
    3. Connect CAN-View video cables to navigation unit.
    4. Test and attach above and to rear of navigation unit.
  6. Solder new pin to some length?? of black wire, and optionally the black wire which connects to the headlamp flasher.
  7. Install pin with black wire(s) to ev-mode button location in HV ECU H14#27. cv5 cv6
    1. The HV ECU is the one closest the exterior of the car with grey plugs.
    2. H14 is the lowest of the four connectors.
    3. Pin #27 is located on the most interior (broken into three segments) row, the second from the bottom left corner, in the only open location between two red wires.
    4. Using a jeweler's screwdriver raise the white terminal retainer, fully insert the new pin, re-compress the retainer, and plug terminal back into HV ECU.
  8. Route black EV Mode wire, and OBDII & Video if non-NAV, along passenger side door trim exiting under carpet before pillar to the hole in carpet below passenger seat and to relay cable.
  9. Route relay cable from CAN-View under rear passenger side door trim towards rear of car.
  10. Reassemble passenger side of dash and door trim.

Finally, Connect all the cables to CAN-View.

Battery Tray Construction

Overview

The next step is to start constructing the mechanical components which will be used in the conversion. The battery trays are where the new lead-acid (PbA) batteries will sit. The trays will then be mounted on rails in the trunk and a top will be placed over it to secure the batteries down. The battery trays are the same for both the classic and alternative mounting methods.

Approx. Time Requirement: 10-12 hours

Tools needed

  • Metal Drill Bits: 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 7/32
  • Hacksaw with metal blade (or other method of cutting 1/8 inch aluminum)
  • Drill or Dremel
  • Drill or Dremel press recommended
  • Metal file for filing rough edges.
  • Wood saw
  • Pop riveting tool
  • Grinder (either an attachment for Dremel or bench grinder)

Parts needed

  • Aluminum material
    • Either 3/4" or 1" by 1/8" thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections, 1x 4 foot section)
    • 1/4" Aluminum channel iron (1x 8 foot section, 1x 4 foot section)
  • 32 5/32 thick, 1/4 inch grip pop rivets
  • 32 #4 flat head self threading screws at least 1/2 inch long
  • Small piece of plywood for making jig (optional, but makes things easier.)
  • Small pieces of wood for making jig (optional)
  • Wood screws (optional)

Assembly Steps

  1. Cut 4 sections of the 1/4" aluminum channel iron to the exact length of the batteries (should be 7 1/16 inches.) Having the batteries actually present is important for measuring. A total of 16 of these pieces will be required for all 4 trays.
  2. Lay out 5 batteries and put the 1/4" aluminum channel irons between the batteries. Measure out the length and cut 2 sections of the aluminum angle irons to the length of the batteries (should be 16 5/16 inches.) A total of 8 of these sections will be required for all 4 trays. See photos below for how to layout the pack.
  3. Layout 5 batteries with the angle irons from above and measure the width and cut the 2 end pieces (should be 7 1/4 inches.) A total of 8 of these pieces will be required for all 4.
  4. Lay everything out on top of a piece of plywood and double check measurements with batteries set in the tray as shown below. It is important that the end pieces are under the pieces that run along the length of the tray.
  5. Screw down blocks of wood around outside of the frame as shown to hold the outside angle irons exactly where they are.
  6. Remove the batteries one by one and put in pieces of wood where the batteries were to hold frame and aluminum channel irons in place. This jig will hold all the pieces together while drilling.
  7. Using a small drill press or preferably a Dremel drill press, drill 2 3/32" holes into each corner (or probably only one if using 3/4" angle irons.)
  8. Once the holes are drilled, remove the top angle iron (the 16 5/16 inch one) and using a 1/8" drill bit, widen the holes so that the #4 screws can pass through them freely (only do this on the longer angle iron, not the bottom!) Then counter-sink with a 7/32" drill bit so that the screw will sit flush in the aluminum (see photo below.)
  9. Put in #4 self threading screws. The screws should grab into the smaller angle iron and hold the angle irons together firmly. The screws will stick out the other side.
  10. Using a cutoff attachment on a Dremel (or a hacksaw, but Dremel works much better), cut the screws off. Then grind them down flat using the cut off attachment on a Dremel or a bench grinder.
  11. Re-insert the finished angle iron frame into jig, and place channel irons in place. Drill 5/32" holes at each end.
  12. Using a pop-riveting tool, insert 5/32" aluminum rivets into the channel irons from the bottom and tighten.
  13. Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 trays.

Photos

Battery Box Supports (Classic Method)

Approx. Time Requirement:

Overview

The battery box supports are what the battery trays will sit on. In the classic method, aluminum angle irons are bolted onto 2 steel tubes which are bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the alternative method, skip this section and goto the next section.

Tools Needed

  • Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)

Parts Needed

  • 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
  • 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
  • 2 3 foot long 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch steel tubes.
  • Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts

Assembly Steps

  1. Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) (Todo: Length may be slightly long, you will probably need to adjust the length when mounting!)
  2. Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly. This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
  3. Cut the steel tubes to the appropriate length (Todo Get exact length)
  4. Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays for a 1/4" nut.
  5. Mark the locations where the aluminum angles sit on the steel tube and drill holes.
  6. Drill holes in the opposite side of the steel tube, big enough to fit the head of a bolt through
  7. Drill 2 additional holes in each steel tube in the middle of where each tray will sit. Again, drill out the other side so a nut can be fit through it. Then put a threaded 5/8" threaded rod through the hole and put a nut on each side (and a lockwasher on one side.) This will serve as the holddown for the battery box top.
  8. Drill 4 holes through the tube, evenly spaced over the entire length. These holes are for mounting the battery box frame to the car.
  9. Drill additional holes as needed to support the electronics tray
  10. Once holes are all drilled, coat the steel tube with anti-rust paint / spraypaint.

Photos

Battery Box Supports (Alternative Method)

The alternative mounting method diagram

Approx. Time Requirement: 4-7 hours

Overview

In the alternative mounting method, the battery trays sit on aluminum angle irons which either sit directly on the trunk or on rubber pads (which allow the use of battery heaters.) The battery box is supported by brackets attached to the OEM battery mouting screws and two steel angle irons bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the classic mounting method, skip this section.

Tools Needed

  • Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)
  • Bench grinder

Parts Needed

  • 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
  • 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
  • 16 inches of steel 1 1/2 inch angle iron
  • 2 joist hangers for electrical conduit
  • Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts
  • 1/4" nuts
  • 1/4" or 1/8" rubber pads (optional, but required if heating pads are to be installed.)
  • anti-rust paint or spraypaint

Assembly Steps

The center strip

  1. See the diagram to the right to see how everything assembles.
  2. Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) (Todo: Length is too long, you will need to adjust the length when mounting, so be careful drilling holes, test fit first!)
  3. Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly (for strength). This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
  4. Lay out 2 aluminum angles so they form a "T" with the top of the "T" being on the floor. Optionaly insert the aluminum strip into the middle
  5. Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays in the middle for a 1/4" nut.
  6. Drill holes through each end of the assembly to anchor the two angles (and optionally the strip) together. The holes must be outside where the battery trays will sit (remember to leave space for a 1/4" nut (which is larger than 1/4")
  7. Optionally, cut rubber pads to go under each of the aluminum angles.
  8. Other holes will need to be drilled later when ready to mount.

Steel Angle Iron Brackets

  1. Cut 4 sections of steel angle iron about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long
  2. Drill a 3/8" hole in the center on one side of the angle iron.
  3. On the inside of the angle iron, weld (or use JB weld or another strong epoxy) a 5/8" nut on the inside so a bolt can go through the angle iron and into the nut
  4. Drill a 5/8" hole in the center of the other side of the angle iron
  5. Paint the steel with a clean metal anti-rust primer (then allow to dry)
  6. Spray or paint the primed steel with anti-rust paint

Steel Supports

  1. Cut 2 sections of steel angle iron about 4 inches long each
  2. Drill 2 5/8" holes in the bottom of the angle iron
  3. These will be used later for mounting into the Prius - the rest of the assembly must be done later

Todo This isn't finished - check the diagram for more details


Photos

Battery Box Top

Approx. Time Requirement: 10 hours

Tools needed

  • Metal Drill Bits:
  • Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade very helpful (must be capable of 45 degree angles.)
  • Tablesaw with Plexiglass blade, or other method of cutting Plexiglass
  • Drill
  • Metal file for filing rough edges.
  • Dremmel
  • Cutoff attachment for Dremmel

Parts Needed

  • Aluminum material
    • 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
    • 1 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (1x 4 foot sections for classic - 8 feet for the alternative mounting method)
  • Corner brackets - can be found at Mennards in shelving hardware section
  • 24x #8-32 flat head machine screws
  • 16x #8-32 nuts
  • 8x #8-32 x 1/4 inch binding posts
  • 1/4 inch Plexiglass or (preferably) Lexan sheet, at least 33 inches by 18.5 inches.
  • 4 small non-conductive nylon screw and binding posts (for holding Plexiglass "shields")

Assembly Steps

  1. Cut 2 strips of Plexiglass (or Lexan) 32.5 inches by 1.5 inches. These peices will act as a sheild between the battery terminals and the aluminum (to prevent shorts.)
  2. Cut opposing 45 degree angle at the end of 2 of the 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron peices to form one of the corners.
  3. Layout the four trays in the frame angle irons (important for getting correct measurements.)
  4. Place 4 batteries in the trays, one in each corner (see photo.)
  5. Place electrical tape over the terminals on the batteries to help prevent any arcs.
  6. Make sure to leave space for the middle bolt down and bolts for the frame. (The battery box base isn't finished yet and requires space in the middle.)
  7. Set one of the cut angle irons on top of the batteries (be sure not to arc the batteries!) Place the Plexiglass "Shield" in place and use clamps to it there. This allows for accurate measurements.
  8. Lay the other angle iron with the opposing 45 degree angle out and measure the width & cut with a 45 degree angle (end peice should be about 15 3/8 inches wide.)
  9. Hold the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top to the end of the battery pack (use clamps to hold it on.) For the classic mounting method, this is only required on the left and right sides. For the alternative mouting method, the angles should go around the entire battery box top.
  10. Holding the angle irons and bolt down angle iron right where they should be, set the corner bracket on the corner and make sure that it covers the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the battery box.
  11. Mark where the holes on the top of the bracket are on the angle iron (or drill holes if necessary.)
  12. Using the Dremmel cutoff tool, cut down the binding post so that it does not stick all the way thought the bracket if set on top (see picture.)
  13. Drill a hole in the angle iron and countersink it so that the #8 flat top machine screw fits flush. Put screw in and repeate for the other angle iron.
  14. Repeate for other sides cutting the angle irons to the right lengths. The length of the angle iron on the side of the battery box should be 34 inches.
  15. To strengthen the structure of the top, drill holes in from the sides, countersink from the inside and bolt using #8 flat head screws and nuts (bolting the top down is important, remember that the top must hold weight if the car goes over large bumps or is involved in an accident or rollover.)
  16. Using a drill press or drill, drill through the Plexiglass on the side and the aluminum angle irons near the edges. Countersink the hole in the Plexiglass and insert non-conductive nylon screws and binding posts to hold Plexiglass in place.
  17. Using the Dremmel with cutoff attachment, grind off the bolts that are sticking out.
  18. Cut the Plexiglass sheet to the correct length and width to fit snuggly into the top of the battery box.
  19. Holes need to be drilled into the bolt down angle irons on each side, but I don't have those measurements and it depends how it is bolted down. Holes also need to be drilled in the middle on each aluminum angle iron to clamp down the top to the bottom of the battery box for extra strength.

Photos

Tips

  • If you are buying a new metal cutoff blade for an existing chopsaw, make sure to get one that is large enough to actually cut all the way through the metal with your specific chopsaw.
  • Aluminum blades with small teeth do not seem to work well for cutting through 1/8 aluminum angle irons! They grab and tend to throw the saw and are almost impossible to control. Don't attempt an aluminum cutting blade with teeth on a radial saw!
  • A hacksaw can work in place of the metal cutoff blade, however it is much more difficult to get straight cuts, even with a metal guide for the hacksaw.
  • A jig saw seems to work well for cutting the aluminum angle irons

Control Board

Control Board, ExpressSCH Schematic

Approx. time requirement: 6-8 hours

A few issues have been found with the posted version of the control board schematics. The new version will be posted shortly with a corrected parts list.

Tools Needed

  • Soldering Iron
  • Solder

Parts List

Todo The parts list should ideally be moved to the parts list page.

The public DigiKey parts list for the control board can be found here


Parts list for Control Board Schematic

Parts List for CalCars' PRIUS+ Control Board V4.2 and LED Board V1.1

Ronald Gremban, 1/21/2007








Quantity Value DigiKey Number Board Designators Min Qty Est Cost Est Cost

Misc



Total
1 4.7nF Capacitor 495-2555-ND C5
$0.13 $0.13
13 0.1uF Capacitor 495-1147-ND C6,C7,C14-18,C22-27
$0.17 $2.21
6 0.47uF Capacitor 495-1160-ND C8-13
$0.35 $2.10
1 22uF,20V Cap P13461-ND C4
$0.11 $0.11
6 100uF,20V Cap P13476-ND C1-3,C19-21
$0.14 $0.84
2 10PST DIP switch CKN3028-ND DIPSW1, DIPSW2
$2.21 $4.42
2 15A blade fuse F992-ND F1,F2 5 $0.46 $2.30
2 rt. angle socket F064-ND (for blade fuses) F1,F2
$1.83 $3.66
1 Omron SPDT Relay Z785-ND (or DPDT Z790-ND, $7.58) RL1
$6.45 $6.45
1 Relay Socket Z792-ND socket RL1
$1.80 $1.80
1 Relay holddown clip Z796-ND (for Z792-ND socket) RL1
$0.28 $0.28








Connectors




4 2-pin 0.1" Molex WM4200-ND J6M,J7M,J10M,J20M
$0.34 $1.36
1 3-pin 0.1" Molex WM4201-ND J2M
$0.43 $0.43
9 2-pin 0.156" Molex WM4620-ND J11M–19M
$0.31 $2.79
1 3-pin 0.156" Molex WM4621-ND J3M
$0.41 $0.41
1 4-pin 0.156" Molex WM4622-ND J4M
$0.51 $0.51
1 5-pin 0.156" Molex WM4623-ND J8M
$0.41 $0.41
1 6-pin 0.156" Molex WM4624-ND J5M
$0.71 $0.71
1 Jumper: 2-pin male WM4000-ND JP1
$0.28 $0.28
1 D15 female 6215FE-nd J1F
$2.41 $2.41
1 16-pin male ribbon CHS16G-ND J9M
$1.46 $1.46








Semiconductors




2 1N5404 1N5404-TPCT-ND D1,D2 10 $0.15 $1.50
10 1N4004 1N4004-TPMSCT-ND D3-9,D11-13 10 $0.04 $0.43
1 MJE2955 497-2621-5-ND, TO-220 Q1
$1.04 $1.04
2 MJE3055 497-2573-5-ND, TO-220 Q16-17
$0.99 $1.98
3 2N3904 2N3904FS-ND, TO-92 Q2-3,Q15
$0.11 $0.33
11 TIP127 TIP127FS-ND, TO-220 Q4-14
$0.63 $6.93
1 STSA1805 497-3531-ND, TO-92 Q18
$1.13 $1.13
1 3mm grn LED 511-1189-ND D10
$0.61 $0.61








ICs




1 LM7812 LM340T-12-ND U9
$1.66 $1.66
2 CD4072 (14-pin DIP) 296-2063-5-ND U1,U2
$0.55 $1.10
2 CD4082 (14-pin DIP) 296-2067-5-ND U3,U4
$0.55 $1.10
2 CD4049 (16-pin DIP) CD4049UBCN-ND U5,U8
$0.48 $0.96
1 CD4081 (14-pin DIP) 296-2066-5-ND U6
$0.55 $0.55
1 LM339 LM339ANFS-ND U7
$0.55 $0.55
6 14-pin DIP socket AE10012-ND or ED90049-ND U1-4,U6, U7
$0.69 $4.14
2 16-pin DIP socket AE7216-ND or ED90050-ND U5,U8
$0.72 $1.44








Resistors




1 330 P330BACT-ND R9 10 $0.07 $0.67
5 1K P1.0KBACT-ND R31,R34,R36,R38,R40 10 $0.07 $0.67
2 1.5K P1.5KBACT-ND R4,R5 10 $0.07 $0.67
1 2.2K P2.2KBACT-ND R3,R12 10 $0.07 $0.67
2 5.1K P5.1KBACT-ND R16,R22 10 $0.07 $0.67
2 6.2K P6.2KBACT-ND R17,R18 10 $0.07 $0.67
1 6.8K P6.8KBACT-ND R23 10 $0.07 $0.67
10 10K P10KBACT-ND R6,R10,R14,R28-30,R32-33,R35,R37 10 $0.07 $0.67
1 20K P20KBACT-ND R13 10 $0.07 $0.67
1 33K P33KBACT-ND R8 10 $0.07 $0.67
1 100K P100KBACT-ND R7 10 $0.07 $0.67
1 200K P200KBACT-ND R15 10 $0.07 $0.67
7 1M P1.0MBACT-ND R19-21,R24-27 10 $0.07 $0.67
1 10M 10MEBK-nd R11 5 $0.05 $0.26
1 2K pot 490-2746-ND R1
$1.05 $1.05
1 5K pot 490-2757-ND R2
$1.05 $1.05
2 100 770-63-R100P-ND (3 iso) RN1,RN2
$0.21 $0.42
2 10K 770-81-R10KP-ND (7 bus) RN3,RN12
$0.34 $0.68
2 100K 770-101-R100KP-ND (9 bus) RN4,RN5
$0.42 $0.84
4 1K 770-63-R1KP-ND (3 iso) RN6,RN7,RN10,RN11
$0.28 $1.12
1 100K 770-61-R100KP-ND (5 bus) RN9
$0.28 $0.28







147




$74.87


Assembly Steps

Control Board Layout

Solder the components to the printed board according to the schematics above. Make sure to install R3, D1 & D2 1/4 inches off the board and to solder the DIP sockets without the IC's installed. If new at soldering, make sure to use a heat sink for soldering transistors.

Installation

  1. See PriusPlus-Mechanical for instructions for physically mounting the control board.

Setup

Need instructions on how to adjust the pots for the correct temperature.

Troubleshooting

The LED board will provide useful information for debugging the control board.

LED Board

Approx. time requirement: Todo

Tools Needed

  • Soldering Iron
  • Solder

Parts Needed

Todo The parts list should ideally be moved to the parts list page. Todo The schematics, parts lists need to be updated to match new schematics. The public DigiKey parts list for the LED board can be found here

Parts list for LED Board Schematic

Parts List for CalCars' PRIUS+ LED Board V1.1

Ronald Gremban, 1/21/2007








Quantity Value DigiKey Number Board Designators
Est Cost Est Cost

Connectors



Total
1 16-pin male ribbon CHS16G-ND (CHS116G was in error) LJ1M
$1.46 $1.46








Semiconductors




2 3mm red LED 511-1188-ND LD1,LD11
$0.61 $1.22
2 3mm or-red LED 160-1667-ND DL7,LD12
$0.13 $0.26
1 3mm orange LED 511-1209-ND LD9
$0.80 $0.80
2 3mm yel LED 511-1213-ND LD3,LD10
$0.61 $1.22
2 3mm grn LED 511-1189-ND LD6,LD13
$0.61 $1.22
2 3mm blu-grn LED 365-1174-ND LD2,LD4
$1.23 $2.46
1 3mm blue LED 160-1600-ND LD8
$0.60 $0.60
2 3mm white LED 160-1734-5-ND LD5,LD14
$1.29 $2.58








Resistors




1 510, 1/2W P510BBCT-ND LR1 10 $0.10 $0.95
3 1K P1.0KBACT-ND LR6,LR11,LR13 10 $0.07 $0.67
1 1.8K P1.8KBACT-ND LR8 10 $0.07 $0.67
2 2.7K P2.7KBACT-ND LR3,LR10 10 $0.07 $0.67
3 3K P3.0KBACT-ND LR7,LR9,LR12 10 $0.07 $0.67
2 7.5K P7.5KBACT-ND LR5,LR14 10 $0.07 $0.67
2 20K P20KBACT-ND LR2,LR4 10 $0.07 $0.67







29




$16.79






















Electronics Tray (Classic Method)

Todo This section needs to be expanded. please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut the bottom, back, sides. Cut holes in the fans on the sides, and use small shelving brackets to secure the pieces together. Attach electronic components with screws. Plexiglass top.

Todo The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.


Electronics Tray diagram

Electronics Box (Alternative)

Todo This section needs to be expanded please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help. Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut a bottom, sides, back, front, middle divider, fan divider, and rear top. The front top is 1/4" plexiglass for easy viewing (or more ABS if preferred.) The fan divider is designed to be easily retractable for easy replacement without removing the battery box. Mount the fuse holders with 2 screws in the middle, the contactors, power supply, relays, etc. Preferably use very short self tapping screws that don't go through the plastic to provide electrical isolation from the rest of the car (optional.) It may be useful to use a Dremmel with a small drill bit to star the hole, use the self tapping screw to start the thread and then use a cutoff small screw. Otherwise, countersink a flat head screw on the outside of the box and use nuts and lock washers on the inside.

Todo The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

Electronics Box diagram

Installation Into the Prius

Now that the sub components are built, it is time to start installing things into the Prius. The following sections will each attempt to leave the Prius in a drivable state after the section is completed.

Disassembling the Prius

Remove user-removable parts

Todo This needs to be finished Remove the false floor, the central storage bin, side storage bin and spare tire.

Battery Carpet & Seat Removal

These bolts must be taken out
Shows the carpeting being removed from the OEM battery
Removing the bolts for the rear seats

Remove the two bolts holding down the carpeting over the OEM battery. Be sure to keep them in a plastic bag so they do not get lost. Then lift up on the Velcro attaching to the rear seats. Then, simply pull straight up on the carpeting assembly. It will snap out and expose the top of the OEM battery. There are 2 carpeting clips that must be removed to fully remove the cover from the OEM battery.

With the OEM battery carpeting removed (or the Velcro simply pulled up), remove the two bolts holding in the seat. The seat back then comes out giving access to the front side of the OEM battery (needed for the OEM tie-in.)

Side panel Removal

Both of the carpeted side panels in the rear of the Prius must be removed. The driver's side panel must be removed to access the OEM battery for tie-in, and the passenger's side must be removed to access the OEM battery fan to add the override wiring.

  1. Remove the screen from the trunk (if it hasn't been already.)
  2. Remove the cover from the driver's side storage cubby hole (if it hasn't been already.)
  3. Remove the black strip in the very rear of the trunk (where the latch is for the trunk) by simply lifting straight up (it will pop out.)
  4. Remove the arm rest sections on the outside of the seats (Todo - add photos)
  5. Remove the 10mm bolt inside the screen holder using a ratchet with an extension
  6. Remove the 10mm bolt in the back of the side panel in the section which holds the screen if were deployed. This can be done with a 10mm ratchet or a screwdriver.
  7. Pull straight out on the entire assembly.
  8. On the drivers side, there is a wire which connects to the trunk lamp which needs to be disconnected.
  9. Repeat instructions for the passenger's side.

Routing CAN-View cables to trunk

Todo This section needs to be improved.

Take off the kick panels on either the driver's side or passenger's side, insert CAN-View cable, ribbon cable (for LED board) and EV mode cable (1 wire) and route into trunk.

Air Vents (Classic Method)

Remove spare tire and the two black drain plugs that sit in the tire well. You may have to use a dremmel to open the hole so you can drop in the [Delete later-(Ron I think I found a piece of conduit that will flush mount in here. The PVC pipe can be glued to it. I’ll get you a part number and picture. By doing this a project could be prepped weeks in advance and the spare will still fit in there until the final conversion days.) ] 2” PVC threaded coupling. Next connect the 2” 90 deg. Elbow and then a length of 2” PVC pipe per this photo (add photo showing underside of car with both pipes pointing back to the rear.)


Installing the Outlet Box (Classic Method)

Todo This section needs to be expanded. Please help us finish this section! Write chris at infolaunch.com to help and for the 120 volt wiring schematics that need to be posted here.

Take a standard plastic wall 4 gang outlet box, route a 12/3 cable into the box (with strain relief), and wire one duplex (2 individual outlets) directly to the incoming power. Then wire one outlet of the other duplex through one relay, and the other through the second relay (such that the outlets are on only when the relays are on.) The 2 individual outlets controlled by relays are designed for heating pads for the OEM battery and the PHEV battery pack. The other 2, always on when plugged in outlets are designed to power the charger and the power supply.

Install Charger / Electronics Box (Alternative Method)

Todo This section needs to be expanded.

Todo Add relevant photos from RawData page

Take a sheet of zinc coated steel and cut it out so that it fits neatly in the bottom of the tire well. Drill a hole in the center where the spare tire screw goes (used to hold the sheet in place.) Then, place the charger in the back, behind the center hole. It may be necessary to use pipe or washers to offset the charger from the steel sheet an inch or so to get it to fit (depends on charger used.) Drill holes through the steel sheet and mount charger to it. Then, put a thin carpet or sturdy insulation on the underside of the steel sheet to prevent rattling while driving. It may be necessary to use a 3/4" small block of wood with a hole through the middle to offset the center of the steel where the screw goes into the tire well mount to keep the steel from bending / rattling while driving. The screw is metric. Then, using several strips of extra strength velcro, velcro the bottom of the electronics box to the steel sheet.



General Disclaimer:   (HV) (DC) injury or death hazard,   use at your own risk,   may void warranty.

HV (High Voltage) DC (Direct Current) Warning: Traction Battery Packs, Motors, Chargers, and other HV sources could cause serious injury or death if proper precautions are not taken while working on or around such High Voltage Direct Current sources.

Use this information at your own risk: There is no warranty expressed nor implied and we are not liable for any of your past, present, nor future actions. Even should you perform these modifications to the letter you could still damage any number of components in your vehicle causing it to no longer function. Even if it appears to function properly your actions may cause it to self destruct with collateral damage to surrounding properties other than your vehicle. By utilizing these ideas and instructions in an attempting to enhance national security, reduce gas consumption, vehicle "emissions", your carbon footprint, or smog, you do so at your own risk & peril.

Warranty: In performing some of these modifications you may void your warranty with the vehicles manufacturer.

See also our My wiki:General disclaimer