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Prius PHEV TechInfo

2008-08-05T15:48:18Z

Cewert: /* OBD-II Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) */ Added P0AA6 HV Isolation fault DTC to a list of DTCs that are likely to occur during a PHEV conversion - Cewert

{{Prius PHEV Options Summary}}{{TOCright}}

Technical information on the [[Toyota Prius|Prius]] useful when designing a [[Prius PHEV]] conversion.

==Generations==

===Original generation===
This is the original 4-door sedan:
*1997 Japan only release, chassis NHW10 (Gen 1, referred to as Mk1 in Australia and the UK, where it has occasionally been privately imported)
*2000 worldwide release, chassis NHW11 (Almost always called Gen 1 in North America, sometimes Gen 2)

===Present generation===
This is the 5-door hatchback, often called Gen 2, sometimes called Gen 3:
*2003 release in selected countries (as model year 2004), chassis NHW20.

==Traction battery==

===Specs===
* Mass: 83 lb (37.5 kg)
* Dimensions: 33 x 15 x 7.5"
* Nominal Voltage: 201.6 V
* Nominal Capacity : 6.5Ah
* Module weight: 1040 g
* Module Form Factor: Prismatic
* No of Modules: 28
* Total no of Cells: 168
* Module specs: http://www.peve.jp/e/hevjyusi.html

===Functions===

The traction battery includes a Battery ECU (Electronic Control Unit). As the Battery Management System (BMS), this unit does the following:
* It calculates the battery's [[SOC]] by integrating the current ("Coulomb counting"). This value is corrected for [[State Of Charge Drift]], self-discharge when the vehicle is not running, etc, by skewing the SOC upward when the open circuit battery voltage surpasses approx. 242V, and, presumably, by skewing it downward when the open circuit voltage is below an as-yet-unmeasured value.
* It reads the pack temperature using 3 thermistors, and the air intake temperature with a 4th thermistor
* It controls its cooling fan (variable speed).
* It calculates the battery dynamic resistance (delta voltage over delta current). This resistance increases with battery aging.
* It protects the battery by limiting its current (even down to 0), if the SOC or temperature are at their limits, or the dynamic resistance is too high, or if it detects a fault.
* It broadcasts to the rest of the vehicle, through the CAN bus, the following data:
** Voltage
** Current (positive for discharge, negative for charge)
** Minimum & maximum temperature
** Maximum current it's able to provide (Discharge Current Limit, or DCL)
** Maximum current it's able to accept (Charge Current Limit, or CCL)
** State Of Charge (SOC)
** Any fault codes (DTCs)

===Battery voltage===
[[Image:Prius-Pack_Voltage_vs_temperature.gif|thumb||right|Voltage vs State Of Charge at various temperatures]]
[[Image:Prius-Pack_Voltage_vs_Current.gif|thumb|right|Voltage vs State Of Charge at various discharge currents]]

If you replace the stock battery, you need to know its voltage, because that's what the vehicle expects. If you add a pack to the stock battery, you need to know its voltage, in order to connect the two together, somehow.

The nominal pack voltage is: 168 cells x 1.2 V = 201.6 V

The pack voltage depends on SOC, temperature and current.
* The voltage depends on State of Charge and on temperature. It is affected by cold, but not much by heat; so, for temperatures abiove 20 C, use the 20 C curve.
* The voltage depends on State of Charge and on discharge current. The voltage is not affected by low currents; so, for current below 1.3 A, use the 1.3 A curve.
* The maximum charge voltage is 1.8 V / cell.

{|align="left" border="1"
| colspan=4 | Therefore, roughly, the estimate pack voltage range is:
|-
||
||Max brake
||No current
||Max drive
|-
||>=20 C, 0% DOD
||302 V
||237 V
||168 V
|-
||-10 C, 80 % DOD
||302 V
||160 V
||126 V
|}

{|align="right" border="1"
| colspan=3 | So, the estimated overall voltage range is:
|-
||Min
||Nom
||Max
|-
||126 V
||202 V
||302 V
|}

{{Clear}}

Though, [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/ Hybrid Interfaces] reports a range of 165 to 270V, while Toyota specifies a normal range of 150 to 300 V (in READY mode) (Ref: "\Repair Manual\04priusf\05\21bpm\cidlitac.pdf"). However, Toyota's "normal" ranges, as reported in their repair manuals, are often misleading; either they are too generous, or the conditions under which they can be expected are not clearly stated.

See also [[Toyota Prius Battery Specs]]

===Battery current===

The battery current ranges from > -100 to > + 100.

These graphs are from data from Argonne National Labs: 600610092_Data_D3.txt.
In these data, positive means into the battery (braking).

During easy driving, the current is on the order of 20 A, but is more like 40 A during serious driving.

[[Image:PriusBatteryCurrentPlot.gif|thumb||right|Plot of battery current, 30 s average]]

[[Image:PriusBatteryCurrentHistogram.gif|thumb||right|Histogram of battery current]]

===Battery heat dissipation===

The battery power dissipation (assuming an internal resistance of 0.5 Ohm) peaks at 4.5 kW!

During easy driving, the dissipation is on the order of 200 W, but is more like 2000 W during serious driving.

[[Image:PriusBatteryHeatPlot.gif|thumb||right|Plot of battery heat dissipation, 100 s average]]

[[Image:PriusBatteryHeatHistogram.gif|thumb||right|Histogram of battery heat dissipation]]

===AC components in battery voltage===

When the system relays are off, the battery floats with respect to the car chassis.

When the system relays are engaged, there is a common AC voltage between the battery terminals and the chassis. Its frequency is 5 KHz. When the engine is charging, its amplitude is 90 Vpp and its shape is a square wave. In EV drive, its amplitude is 100 Vpp and its shape is a combination of 2 square waves, each at 5 KHz, but not synchronized, so that one drifts with respect to the other one. The differential mode voltage is 200 Vdc (or course) plus noise spikes at the edges of the common mode wave, on the order of 10 Vpp.

A PHEV conversion must deal with this significant common noise.

===Reconnecting traction battery===
* While working on the High Voltage section, ensure that the READY light is off and then remove the orange Service Plug on left end of the battery pack
* If you attempt to turn on the car while the orange Service Plug is removed, or the Battery ECU is disconnected, the Prius will generate a fault code (DTC) and light-up the /!\ ''(Red Exclamation in a Triangle)'' symbol on the dashboard, and show a car with an Exclamation point in it on the Multi-Function Display ([[MFD]]).
* To end the fault display
** Turn off the car (READY light OFF)
** Reconnect whatever is disconnected
** Turn on the car
** Drive
** Turn off the car
* Now the DTC is still stored, but at least there is no fault display on the dashboard.

===Cabling to traction battery===
[[Image:Prius-harness_to_traction_battery.gif|right|Harness to the battery]]
The harness to the traction battery has 3 tails, each with a connector
* To Battery ECU - power, communication, fan control
* To the orange Service Plug - to detect if the Service Plug is fully plugged-in
* To the System Relays - to drive the relays that connect the traction battery to the inverter

[[Image:Prius-Battery_ECU-Pin-out.gif|right|thumb|Pin-out of connector on Battery ECU]]
'''Battery ECU (electronic Control Unit)''' 
Pinout:
* POWER
** Gnd - to chassis
** AM - 12 V, always on, for memory retention
** IGCT - 12 V when the car is in the "READY" mode
** IG - 12 V when ignition is on
* COMMUNICATIONS
** CANH - CAN bus High
** CANL - CAN bus Low
* BLOWER
** VM - monitors fan voltage, 2 to 12 V
** SI - variable duty cycle (PWM) square wave to control fan speed
** FCTL1 - drives the relay which in turn powers the fan

'''Service Plug disconnect/connect sensor.''' 
A simple reed switch, which is integrated into the 2004-up Prius service plug, is opened during the service plug removal sequence, just BEFORE the service plug opens the battery circuit. Upon re-installation, the switch is closed (shorted) just AFTER the service plug completes the circuit. Two pins connect the reed switch to the battery ECU. The purpose of this switch is to tell the battery ECU that the service plug is being removed, so that the system main relays can be opened prior to disconnecting the battery in the event that the service plug is inadvertently being removed while the system is in READY mode. Toyota warns that the HV ECU can be damaged if the power switch is engaged with the service plug disconnected.

NOTE: If the service plug in not firmly pushed down after insertion, the switch will not close, the system will not ready up, and a DTC will be set. This is a common oversight.

The service plug disconnect/connect sensor is a failsafe that prevents arcing at the service plug. It is not present on the service plug used in 1997-2003 Prius vehicles, but is integrated into the receptacle for the plug.

'''System Relays''' 
Four pins:
* Common
* System relay K1 (precharge resistor)
* System relay K2 (traction pack +, bypassing precharge resistor)
* System relay K3 (traction pack -)

=== System Relays ===

Toyota refers to this assembly as an SMR (System Main Relay). In truth, there are three separate System Main Relays, housed in the drivers' side end of the battery pack enclosure:
* a precharge relay in series with a precharge resistor
* 2 contactors, one on the positive circuit and one on the negative circuit.

The system relays (contactors) are turned on in this sequence:

[[Image:PriusContactorSequence.gif]]

At power up:
* The precharge relay is turned on first by itself (which results in no current, because there is no return path), and then turned off. This function checks for a stuck relay on the negative side. If that relay was stuck, current would be present. The HV ECU would then record a DTC before shutting itself down. The DTC would have to be cleared and the problem corrected before the vehicle will re-enter READY status.
* After a pause, the precharge relay and the negative contactors are turned on, to precharge the electronics in the vehicle slowly, through the system resistor.
* Then the positive contactor is turned on, to complete a direct path between the battery and the vehicle electronics.
* Then the precharge relay is turned off.

At power down:
* The positive contactor is turned off, removing power to the vehicle electronics. This is the only time when arcing may occur. Arcing on its contacts will affect its lifetime.
* Then the negative contactor is turned off.

There is a hump in the waveforms, as the voltage goes from 10 V to 12 V. This is probably due to the DC-DC converter (from the traction battery voltage to the 12 V battery) being on.

==CAN bus==
If the conversion will replace the stock Battery ECU, it must talk directly with the vehicle CAN bus.

* [http://www.kvaser.com/can/protocol/index.htm Kvaser] has a simple explanation of the CAN bus.
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus wikipedia article on the CAN bus]

The battery ECU is the last device on the CAN bus, and thus has one of the 2 termination resistors. The termination resistor in the stock ECU is 120 ohm split-termination (meaning there are 2 60 ohm resistors in series, with a small capacitor from the middle of the 2 resistors to ground.) Toyota also uses a common mode choke on the CAN bus for filtering.

===CAN Tools===
* [[CAN-View]] - uses the vehicle's MFD (Multi Function Display). V1, V2, and V3 are only compatible with the 2004 and 2005 Prius. A new V4 will be compatible with the 2006+ Prius and perhaps other hybrid models.

* A generic adapter between the CAN-bus and a PC. It is convenient to use a USB port, though the serial or parallel or Ethernet port may be used as well. Examples of USB adapters:
** [http://www.peak-system.com/db/gb/pcanusb_gb.html Peak's PCAN-USB] also sold as the [http://www.c-a-n.com/canusb.html?source=goog&kw=can+usb&gclid=CJLw2ZGH-IUCFQmMCwodIHRbtw GridConnect's GC-CAN-USB]
*** Note: disconnecting this product's USB cable seems to create significant problems for Windows XP (immediate shut-down, or even the "blue screen of death"). You must use the system tray's "Remove hardware" icon first.
*** The PCAN-View software comes free with this product. In theory, it can filter a range of message IDs. In reality, that doesn't work so well if you're filtering more than one ID. However, you can run multiple instances of PCAN-View, each using a different filter, one for each message that interests you.
*** They charge extra for a logger. You can use a free logger instead:
**** [http://www.vassfamily.net/ToyotaPrius/CAN/cindex.html Attila Vass' My CAN Project]
**** [http://hybrids-plus.com/pmwiki/index.php?n=Ext.Downloads Hybrids Plus' CANUSB logger]
** [http://www.grifo.com/VARIE/Candip/uk_canUSB.htm Grifo's CANUSB]
** [http://www.systec-electronic.com/html/index.pl/en_product_usb_canmodul Systec's USB-CANmodul]
** [http://www.can232.com/ CAN232] is a CAN to RS232 device used by [http://www.vassfamily.net/ToyotaPrius/CAN/cindex.html Attila Vass] with his early [[Prius PHEV User Interfaces#My CAN Project|My CAN Project]].
*** Communications with CAN232 via a terminal application:
**** send "V" command. You'll see "V1220" version info received.
**** send "N" command. You'll see "NB743" serial number.
**** send "X1" command to enable AutoPoll function.
**** send "S6" command to set 500 kbps CAN speed.
**** send "O" command to open the CAN port. You'll see a lot of CAN messages.
** The '''CAN-View''' should not be confused with this [http://www.rmcan.com/index.php?id=61&L=1 CANview] product (notice no dash in the name), which is a CAN to RS232 device.
* These adapters have a DE-9 DSUB connector, so you'll also need an adapter to the Prius' OBD connector. For example:
** [http://www.c-a-n.com/gc-can-cab-odb2.html GridConnect's CAN to OBD2 Cable]
* The Prius' OBD (On Board Diagnostics) connector is located under the dashboard, below and to the right of the steering wheel, facing down. A.k.a.: Data Link Connector 3 (DLC3)
*Alternatively, tap into the CAN bus directly. Use a short cable to the CAN adapter.
** CANH - black wire
** CANL - white wire
** GND - chassis

===CAN bus protocol===

* The CAN bus is active only when the vehicle is in READY mode, and for a few seconds after the end of the READY mode.
* baud rate: 500 kbits/s (if you use the wrong rate, the vehicle will complain and store a DTC fault until the DTC codes are cleared)
* Standard: CAN 2.0A ("standard CAN", 11-bit identifier)
* Remote frames: not used
** this means all the data are volunteered and none are requested; that is, that every component on the vehicle broadcasts its data periodically; no component puts out requests for data

===All CAN messages===

[http://www.vassfamily.net/ Attila Vass] prepared a list of all [http://www.vassfamily.net/ToyotaPrius/CAN/PriusCodes.xls CAN codes] (xls).

===Battery ECU messages===
The Battery ECU (Electronic Control Unit) broadcasts messages to the rest of the vehicle through the CAN bus.

It appears that broadcasting those messages is all the Battery ECU is expected to do. It appears that this ECU only needs to talk, and doesn't need to listen. That is, it doesn't appear that it is expected to do anything about any messages that are placed on the bus by other devices.

The battery ECU is able to protect itself by stating the maximum current it may accept or may provide. It may also protect itself by generating a Fault Code (DTC). In either case, the battery module is at the mercy of the rest of the vehicle to respect those requests and not draw or source too much current.
Thanks to Jim Fell for coming up with the checksum algorithm first.

The following data were seen in a 2006 Prius.

The Battery ECU (Electronic Control Unit) broadcasts the following messages. In this table, numbers in parentesis (#) refer to the notes just below the table.

{| cellspacing=0 cellpadding=3 border=1
|-
|'''ID (hex)'''
|'''Period [ms] [[#1 | (1)]]'''
|'''No of data bytes'''
|'''byte 0'''
|'''byte 1'''
|'''byte 2'''
|'''byte 3'''
|'''byte 4'''
|'''byte 5'''
|'''byte 6'''
|'''byte 7'''

|-
|03Bh
|8
|5
|colspan=2 | Current [[#2 | (2)]]
|colspan=2 | Voltage [[#3 | (3)]]
|ChkSum[[#4 | (4)]]
|colspan=3 bgcolor="gray"|

|-
|3C9h
|100
|8
|colspan=2 |Y [[#14 | (14)]]
|Z [[#15 | (15)]]
|X [[#12 | (12)]]
|X [[#12 | (12)]]
|X [[#12 | (12)]]
|X [[#12 | (12)]]
|ChkSum[[#4 | (4)]]

|-
|3CBh
|100
|7
|CDL [[#5 | (5)]]
|CCL [[#6 | (6)]]
|?SOC? [[#11 | (11)]]
|SOC [[#7 | (7)]]
|temp1 [[#8 | (8)]]
|temp2 [[#9 | (9)]]
|ChkSum[[#4 | (4)]]
| bgcolor="gray" |

|-
|3CDh
|100
|5
|colspan=2 |fault code [[#10 | (10)]]
|colspan=2 | Voltage [[#3 | (3)]]
|ChkSum[[#4 | (4)]]
|colspan=3 bgcolor="gray"|

|-
|4D1h
|1060
|8
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]

|}

Notes:
*h = hex value; d = decimal value; b = binary value;
* A.V.: Attila Vaas ([http://www.vassfamily.net/ Attila Vass]) believes...; D'de: Davide ([[Hybrids-Plus]]) believes...
 
1) How often this message is repeated
 
2) Pack current: 12-bit, signed (>0 = discharge, <0 = charge) [0.1 A], -256 to 254 A. Examples:
* 0F80h = -128d = charging at 12.8 Amps
* 0000h = 0d= no pack current
* 0080h = 128d = discharging at 12.8 Amps
3) Pack voltage: 16-bit, unsigned [V], 0 to 510 V. Note that 2 different messages have this data, though the 2 values can be off by 1 LSB. Examples:
* 00DCh = 220d = 220 Volts
* 0100h = 256d = 256 Volts
4) CheckSum: used to check for errors in the data. [[http://www.hybrids-plus.com/xls/PriusCAN_CheckSum.xls Details]] (xls)
Calculated as follows:
# Add the message ID (low byte plus high byte), the individual data bytes (other than the check-sum itself) and the number of data bytes
# Take the mod 256 of that (that is, drop the high byte)
5) Maximum discharging current that the pack can handle: 8-bit unsigned, [A]. A.k.a.: CDL (Current Discharge Limit). From that and the pack voltage, the maximum dicharging power (WOUT) is calculated and reported in the Diagnostics Tool (Typically <= 21 kW). The battery reduces this value at cold temperatures (at around 5 C it is down to around 60A) and low SOC. Range seen: 46 to 105 Example:
* 69h = 105d = 105 Amps -> 21 kW @ 200 V
6) Maximum charging current that the pack can handle: 8-bit unsigned, [A]. A.k.a.: CCL (Current Charge Limit). From that and the pack voltage, the maximum charging power (WIN) is calculated and reported in the Diagnostics Tool (Typically <= 25 kW). The battery reduces this value at high SOC. Example:
* 7Ah = 122d = 122 Amps -> 24.4 kW @ 200 V. Range seen: 0 to 125 A, normally 115 A.
7) State of Charge: 8-bit, unsigned [0.5%]. Examples:
* 4Fh = 79d = 39.5 % full (stopped, this is when the motor turns on to start charging the pack)
* 64h = 100d = 50 % full (stopped, this is when the motor turns off after charging the pack)
* B4h = 180d = 90 % full
8) A.V.: Lowest temperature reading of any sensor. 
D'de: Average temperature of the 3 sensors inside the battery. 8-bit signed, [?C] Example:
* 18h = 26d = 26 ?C
9) A.V.: Highest temperature reading of any sensor. 
D'de: Temperature of the air intake. 8-bit signed, [?C]. Reads the same or *lower* than Temp 1, by 0 to 5 ?C. Example:
* FEh = -2d = -2 ?C
10) Fault Code (DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code): 16-bit. The 2 Most Significant bits are the type of code (see below). The other 14 bits are the code. See table below for Fault codes. Examples:
* 0560h = 0000 0101 0110 0000b = DTC P0560 = No voltage at the "AM" contact
* 3056h = 0011 0000 0101 0110b = DTC P3056 = Problem with the battery current sensor
* C100h = 1100 0001 0000 0000b = DTC U0100 = No Communication with the Engine Control Module
11) Delta in State of Charge: 8-bit, unsigned [0.5%]. Difference between SOC of most charged block and SOC of least charged block. This is just a guess. Examples:
* 00h = 0d = 0 % = all block are equally charged
* 0Ah = 10d = 5 % = the most charged bloc's SOC is 5 % higher than the least charged block
12) Unknown data. (A.V.: related to release date ?)
Typical values:
* 02 75 02 FA (Attila Vass)
* 02 99 03 1F (GEO car)
* 02 9A 03 21 (RG car)
13) Unknown, unchanging data. (A.V.: Batt -> HECU)
Typical values:
*11 00 01 02 00 00 00 00 (D'de)
*11 00 01 00 00 00 00 00 (A.V.)
14) Reading (of what?) used only during calibration(?) at power up. 12 bits. Normally 3FFh. During calibration, about 1/2 scale (0180h).
Typical values:
* 03 FF 01 (RG car, GEO car)
* 03 FF 05 (GEO car)
* 01 87 21 (GEO car)
* 03 FF 21 (GEO car, RG car, A.V.)
* 00 08 25 (RG car) at power-up
* 01 1D 25 (RG car) at power-up
* 01 1E 25 (RG car) at power-up
* 01 2A 25 (GEO car)
* 01 2B 25 (GEO car)
* 01 2C 25 (GEO car)
* 01 72 25 (GEO car)
* 01 D1 25 (GEO car)
* 01 D2 25 (GEO car)
* 03 FF 25 (GEO car)
* 03 FF 25 (GEO car)
* 03 FF 25 (GEO car)
* 03 FF 25 (RG car)
* 01 7D 27 (RG car) when engine first comes on
* 01 84 27 (RG car) when engine first comes on
* 01 D4 27 (GEO car)
* 03 FF 29 (GEO car)
15) Probably flags. Related to the calibration bytes above.
Typical sequence of values:
* Power-up: 25h (0101b)
* After engine comes on, after a few seconds: 27h (0111b), during which time the 1st 2 bytes are something other than 3FFh.
* Engine still running, after a few seconds: 21h (0001b), and 1st 2 bytes go back to 3FFh
* Power down: 01h
Other values seen: 05, 29

It appears that the battery pack also sends the following data, though it's unclear in which messages:

{| cellspacing=0 cellpadding=3 border=1
|-
|VMF FAN VOLTAGE
|Battery blower motor voltage Min.: 0 V, Max.: 25.4 V
|Actuation condition of battery blower motor

|-
|COOLING FAN SPD
|Battery blower motor drive mode Min.: 0, Max.: 6
|Stopped: 0 Low to high speed actuation: 1 to 6

|-
|ECU CTRL MODE
|ECU control mode Min.: 0, Max.: 4
|Operating condition of HV battery

|-
|SBLW RQST
|Battery blower motor stop control request (standby blower)
|Presence of stop control request to battery

|-
|V1 to V14 BATT BLOCK
|Battery block voltage Min.: –327.68 V, Max.: 327.67 V
|Voltage variance among battery blocks

|}

=== Altering the SOC (SOC spoofing) ===

The OEM battery broadcasts a message on the CAN bus approximately every 100ms which includes the [[SOC]]. It has been discovered that the Prius's HV ECU listens to the last message received. Simply rebroadcasting that message immediately after it was originally sent with an altered value for the SOC (and altered checksum), causes the car to believe that the SOC is the altered value without intercepting the original message. This allows a conversion to spoof the SOC in a low cost and simple method which does not require altering the OEM battery's ECU or taps. The agent doing the rebroadcasting can be a computer with a device such as CANUSB or a small embedded system with a CAN interface.

Any system which uses SOC spoofing must be careful not to over discharge or overcharge the OEM battery.

=== CCL and CDL ===

The battery reports Charge and Discharge Current Limits depending on the SOC and the temperature.
Based on very rough data, these graphs show their relationship.
* Note that the Discharge limit remains high even if the SOC is very low.
* The data were taken at a SOC range from 27 to 78 %, and a temperature range from 42 to 56 °C
* The data were taken just at the upper end of the temperatures. We still need data for the colder temperatures.

[[Image:Prius_CCL_graph.gif]]

Current Charge Limit (CCL) [A] versus SOC [%] at various temperatures [°C]

[[Image:Prius_CDL_graph.gif]]

Current Discharge Limit (CDL) [A] versus temperature [°C]

===OBD-II Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)===

The Battery ECU detects and reports many fault conditions.
*The Battery ECU places a Fault Code (DTC) in its message with an ID of 3CDh
*The Engine ECU receives such DTCs (from the Battery ECU and from other devices as well)
*The Engine ECU lights the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) (a.k.a. "Check Engine Lamp") on the dashboard. (In some cases it does so immediately, in some cases after it receives the same DTC twice.)

Fault codes begin with one of four letters, depending of the 2 Most Significant bits (MSb) of the hex code:

*Ltr MSBs
*P 00 Powertrain: Most faults start with this letter
*C 01 Chassis: steering, brakes, other chassis systems. Faults in the transmission control ECU or electric power steering system
*B 10 Body: Smart entry and Immobilizer malfunction. The only DTCs are B1294 and B2799
*U 11 Network: Faults in the CAN network as well as any other networks (The Hybrid Control System cannot communicate with other components on the CAN bus0

All OBD-II diagnostic codes have five digits.

The first digit in an OBD-II DTC is always a letter, narrowing the fault to one of four different sections of the on-board diagnostic system: a P for powertrain, B for body, C for chassis, or U for network. At present, no other letters are used.

The second digit will be a number; SAE-defined codes, known as generic codes, are identified by a 0 (as above), 2, or 3. Manufacturer-specific codes, which are not defined by SAE, must use a 1 for the second digit. They can mean anything within the system defined by the first digit of the DTC.

When a Prius sets a DTC, it also sets a proprietary three-digit diagnostic code that sometimes gives a bit more information. This is typically accessed with a factory scanner.

Common DTC codes that may be set during a conversion:

{| cellspacing=0 cellpadding=3 border=1
|-
|'''Code (hex)'''
|'''Cause'''
|'''Note'''

|-
|P0AA6
|High Voltage isolation fault - current is detected flowing from the HV system to the chassis of the car
|(3)

|}

===HV Battery Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)===

The battery ECU may generate the following Fault Codes (DTCs = Diagnostic Trouble Codes).

{| cellspacing=0 cellpadding=3 border=1
|-
|'''Code (hex)'''
|'''Cause'''
|'''Note'''

|-
|P0560
|There's no voltage at the "AM" contact of the battery ECU (it should be 12 V at all times)
|(1)

|-
|P0A1F
|Battery ECU is bad (many possible symptoms)
|(2)

|-
|P0A7F
|One of the blocks in the battery pack has deteriorated: its dynamic resistance is too high
|(1)

|-
|P0A80
|The difference in voltage between 2 of the blocks in the battery pack is too high
|(1)

|-
|P0A81 P0A82 P0A84 P0A85
|The fan cooling the battery pack has problems (motor voltage or expected battery temperature)
|(1)

|-
|P0A95
|Battery pack's fuse is blown (the Service Plug is still plugged in)
|(3)

|-
|P0A9B
|One of the temperature sensors in the battery pack is opened or shorted
|(1)

|-
|P0AAC
|The temperature sensors in the air intake is opened or shorted
|(1)

|-
|P30xx
|Battery block xx - 10 is weak
|(2)(4)

|-
|P3030
|One or more of the wires between the Battery ECU and the battery blocks is disconnected
|(1)

|-
|P3056
|There's a problem with the battery current sensor
|(1)

|}

Notes:
# Behavior: lets the vehicle go into the READY mode and drive normally
# Behavior: lets the vehicle go into the READY mode but limits driving to fail-safe mode
# Behavior: if the engine happened to be on at the time, the vehicle remains in the READY mode and continues driving with just the engine; if the engine happened to be off at the time, without a battery it can't be started, so the vehicle turns off the READY mode and stops
# There are 14 blocks in the battery pack (1 through 14); the last 2 digits of the code are the equal to the number of the bad block plus 10; so, if block 1 is bad, the code is P3011, if block 12 is bad, the code is P3022

===PIDs===

The battery responds to the following [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs PIDs].

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! colspan=3| Function
! colspan=3| REQUEST (e.g.: from ScanGauge)
! colspan=4| RESPONSE (from battery)
|-
! PID
! ScanGauge
! Name
! ID
! Len
! Data (1)
! ID
! Len
! Data
! Units / notes
|-bgcolor=#777777
| 00
| -
| PID map
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 00 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 06 61 00 98 18 80 13 00
| Specifies which PIDs exist in this block
|-
| 01
| -,-,-,-
| ?,?,?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 01 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 06 61 01 aa bb cc dd 00
| aa = 00h (?), bb = 04h (?), cc = 00h (?), dd = 00h (?) A. Vass: MIL STATUS
|-
| 04
| -
| ?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 04 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 03 61 04 aa xx xx xx xx
| aa = 00h (?)
|-
| 05
| -,-,-,-
| ?,?,?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 05 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 03 61 05 aa 00 00 00 00
| aa = 76h (?)
|-
| 0C
| -,-
| ?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 0C xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 04 61 0C aa bb 00 00 00
| aa = 00h (?), bb = 00h (?)
|-
| 0D
| -,-,-,-
| ?,?,?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 0D xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 03 61 0D aa 00 00 00 00
| aa = 00h (?)
|-
| 11
| -
| ?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 11 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 03 61 11 aa 00 00 00 00
| aa = 23h (1Eh to 28h, varies w/RPM?)
|-
| 1C
| -
| ?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 1C xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 03 61 1C aa 00 00 00 00
| aa = 01h (?)
|-
| 1F
| -,-
| ?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 1F xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 04 61 1F tt tt 00 00 00
| tttt = total time engine has been on since power-up [s]
|-bgcolor=#777777
| 20
| -
| PID map
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 20 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 06 61 20 80 01 80 01 00
| Specifies which PIDs exist in this block
|-
| 21
| -,-
| ?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 21 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 04 61 21 aa bb 00 00 00
| aa = 00h (?), bb = 00h (?) A. Vass: Drive Mileage
|-
| 30
| -
| ?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 30 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 03 61 30 aa 00 00 00 00
| aa = 07h (?)
|-
| 31
| -,-
| ?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 31 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 04 61 31 aa bb 00 00 00
| aa = 00h (?), bb = 20h (?)
|-bgcolor=#777777
| 40
| -
| PID map
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 40 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 06 61 40 C0 0C 00 01 00
| Specifies which PIDs exist in this block
|-
| 41
| -,-,-,-
| ?,?,?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 41 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 06 61 41 aa bb cc dd 00
| aa = 00h (?), bb = 04h (?), cc = 00h (?), dd = 00h (?)
|-
| 42
| -,-
| ?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 42 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 04 61 42 aa bb 00 00 00
| aa = 37h (?), bb = 1Eh (?)
|-
| 4D
| -,-
| ?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 4D xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 04 61 4D aa bb 00 00 00
| aa = 00h (?), bb = 00h (?)
|-
| 4E
| -,-
| ?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 4E xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 04 61 4E aa bb 00 00 00
| aa = 00h (?), bb = FBh, FCh (temperature?)
|-bgcolor=#777777
| 60
| -
| PID map
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 60 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 06 61 60 C0 0C 00 01 00
| Specifies which PIDs exist in this block
|-
| 61
| -
| ?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 03 21 61 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 06 61 aa bb cc dd 13 ee
| aa = 00 (?), bb = 98 (?), cc = 18 (?), dd = 80 (?), ee = 13 (?),
|-bgcolor=#777777
| 62
| -
| ?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 62 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| ?? 61 62 ?? ?? ?? ?? ??
| Should exist based on PID map, but not seen
|-bgcolor=#777777
| 6D
| -
| ?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 6D xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| ?? 61 6D ?? ?? ?? ?? ??
| Should exist based on PID map, but not seen
|-bgcolor=#777777
| 6E
| -
| ?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 6E xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| ?? 61 6E ?? ?? ?? ?? ??
| Should exist based on PID map, but not seen
|-bgcolor=#777777
| 80
| -
| PID map
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 80 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 06 61 80 00 00 00 01 00
| Specifies which PIDs exist in this block
|-bgcolor=#777777
| A0
| -
| PID map
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 A0 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 06 61 A0 00 00 00 01 00
| Specifies which PIDs exist in this block
|-bgcolor=#777777
| C0
| -
| PID map
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 C0 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 06 61 C0 00 07 00 01 00
| Specifies which PIDs exist in this block
|-bgcolor=#777777
| CD
| -
| ?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 CD xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| ?? 61 CD ?? ?? ?? ?? ??
| Should exist based on PID map, but not seen
|-
| CE
| SOC,-,-
| SOC, Current,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 CE xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 10 21 61 CE ss cc cc zz
| ss = SOC [0.5%], cccc = current [10 mA + 8000h] >8000h out of battery, zz = 86h, 85h (?)
|-
| CF
| -,-,-,-
| ?,?,?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 CF xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 10 12 61 CF aa bb cc dd
| aa = 7Fh, 86h (?), bb = 07h,7Ch/89h/96h/A4/B0/BD/C9/D6 (some temperature?) , cc = 80h (?), dd= C6h & C7h normally, C2h at power down, BF & BE at power-up (?) A. Vass: Delta SOC, Batt temperatures
|-
| D0
| -,-,-,-
| ?,?,?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 D0 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 10 1F 61 D0 aa bb cc dd
| aa = 0Eh (?), bb = 00h (?), cc = 00h (?), dd = 00h (?) A. Vass: Battery module voltages and internal resistance calcs
|-bgcolor=#777777
| E0
| -
| PID map
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 E0 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 06 61 E0 C0 00 00 00 00
| Specifies which PIDs exist in this block
|-
| E1
| -,-,-,-
| ?,?,?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 E1 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 04 61 E1 aa bb 00 00 00
| aa = 00h (?), bb = 00h (?)
|-
| E2
| -,-,-,-
| ?,?,?,?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 E2 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| 07 61 E2 aa bb cc dd ee
| aa = F2h (?), bb = B2h (?), cc = 99h (?), dd = F3h (?), dd = 40h (?)
|-bgcolor=#777777
| E3
| -
| ?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 E3 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| ?? 61 E3 ?? ?? ?? ?? ??
| Should exist based on PID map, but not seen
|-bgcolor=#777777
| E4
| -
| ?
| 07E3h
| 8
| 02 21 E4 xx xx xx xx xx
| 07EBh
| 8
| ?? 61 E4 ?? ?? ?? ?? ??
| Should exist based on PID map, but not seen
|}

Notes:
#) xx = don't care
#) Voltage [V] * 2^17 / 1000; e.g.: 99 98 = 300 V, B3 30 = 350 V
#) Voltage [V] * 2^15 / 1000; e.g.: 26 66 = 300 V, 2C CC = 350 V
#) Delta [50 mV]; e.g.: 00 = 0 V; 01 = 50 mV; 02 = 100 mV
#) Temper [C] + 40 = (Temper [F] + 40) * 5 / 9; e.g.: 00 = -40 C = -40 F; 28 = 0 C = 32 F; 41 = 25 C = 77 F
#) The 4 bytes are, in order: Max temperature, Min temperature, Avg temperature, ?? temperature
#) Limit [500 mA]; e.g.: 8A = 69 A

====Data bytes====
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! ...
! Byte 0
! Byte 1
! Byte 2
! Byte 3
! Byte 4
! Byte 5
! Byte 6
! Byte 7
|-
| Request
| 03 = No of data bytes following
| 22 = mode 22 request
| ID of ECU
| PID
| n.a.
| n.a.
| n.a.
| n.a.
|-
| 1-byte response
| 04 = No of data bytes following
| 62 = response to mode 22 request
| ID of ECU
| PID
| Value
| n.a.
| n.a.
| n.a.
|-
| 2-byte response
| 05 = No of data bytes following
| 62 = response to mode 22 request
| ID of ECU
| PID
| Value, high byte
| Value, low byte
| n.a.
| n.a.
|}

====PID maps====
The entire range of 256 possible PIDs is divided in 8 blocks of 20h PIDs. The data in the first PID of each block is a bitmap of the PIDs implemented in that block. Convert the data to binary, convert each '1' to its weight, add 1 and add the base address of that block. That will give you the corresponding PID. The last bit of the last data byte is set, which converts to +20h, to point to the next data block (except for the very last block).

For example, for block 40h (02 21 40 xx xx xx xx xx) :
* The response is 06 61 40 C0 0C 00 01 00, and therefore the data bytes are C0 0C 00 01
We convert C0 0C 00 01 to binary: 1100 0000 0000 1100 0000 0000 0000 0001

high nibble 0000 0000 0000 0000 1111 1111 1111 1111
low nibble 0123 4567 89AB CDEF 0123 4567 89AB CDEF
C00C0001 = 1100 0000 0000 1100 0000 0000 0000 0001

Now we get the weight of each '1':

0000 0000 0000 0000 1111 1111 1111 1111 high nibble of weight
0123 4567 89AB CDEF 0123 4567 89AB CDEF low nibble of weight
1100 0000 0000 1100 0001 0000 0000 0000 -> 00, 01, 0C, 0D, 1F

Now we convert those to PIDs:

00 + 1 + 40 = 41
01 + 1 + 40 = 42
0C + 1 + 40 = 4D
0D + 1 + 40 = 4E
1F + 1 + 40 = 60

So, the PIDs in this block are: 41h, 42h, 4Dh and 4Eh. The next PID map is at 60h

====ScanGauge set-up====

This table shows how to set-up a [http://www.scangauge.com/ ScanGauge 2] with XGAUGE to report certain parameters of the stock battery using PIDs. A PHEV should at the very least implement these PIDs.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! TXD
! RXF
! RXD
! MTH
! NAM
! Notes
|-
| 07E321CE
| 056186CE0000
| 3810
| 0001000AF333
| Abt
| Pack current [A]
|-
| 07E321CE
| 056186CE0000
| 3008
| 000A00020000
| %sc
| Pack State Of Charge [%]
|-
| 0033
| 0100023B0000
| 2010
| 000100010000
| Vbt
| Pack Voltage [V]
|}

==Causes for errors==
The Prius doesn't like the following:
* Actual battery voltage at 175 V or less (regardless of what you tell it the voltage is). Or, telling the car that the battery voltage is much higher than it really is (say, the battery is 170 V, but you tell it it's 200 V)
** A fault is generated, car dies
** Clear the faults, tell it the right voltage, and all will be fine
* Telling the car that the battery is at 80 % SOC or more
** Engine runs all the time, drawing current from the battery (about 9 A) to discharge it
* Resistance from HV- or HV+ to chassis ground less than around 10M

==MFD (Multi Function Display)==

===State Of Charge display===
In the Energy screen, the state of charge of the battery is shown with 8 bars. The following graph shows the relationship between the SOC reported by the battery ECU and the number of bars shown. There is a hysteresis of 2.5 % (usually), and filtering with a time constant of about 15 seconds (created inside the HEV ECU - the HEV ECU reacts immediately to changes in SOC, and the display reacts immediately to changes in CAN message 529h).
:[[Image:StateOfChargeBars.gif]]
::''More SOC images available at [[Toyota Prius Battery Specs]].''

===Overriding the instrument cluster===
There is a way of affecting the display of a few items in the Prius MFD through the CAN Bus, the SOC in particular.

The Hybrid ECU broadcasts a message with some of the information that the instrument cluster (including the MFD) uses to display SOC and alarms.

The message ID is 529h, it has 7 data bytes, and it repeats at most every 1 s (if there's a change in data, it is sent right away, and then every 1 s thereafter). To be exact, it's slightly less that 1 s: it's 999.5 ms.

The typical message is: 28 00 00 84 00 00 00

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Byte
! General effect
! Default
! Bits
! Function
! Effect
|-
|rowspan=4 |0
|rowspan=4 |-
|rowspan=4 |28h
| 7 (80h)
| Set for 1 s whenever data change
| none
|-
| 5 (20h)
| ?
| none
|-
| 3 (08h)
| ?
| If 0, displays "Problem"
|-
| All others
| ?
| none

|-
|rowspan=4 |1
|rowspan=4 |Screen doesn't change
|rowspan=4 |00h
| 2, 4 or 6 (04h, 10h or 40h):
| General problem with triangle
| Top strip: "Problem", 1 beep, red triangle
|-
| 5 (20h)
| General problem
| Top strip: "Problem", 1 beep
|-
| 3 (08h)
| Not in Park, and the driver side door is open
| Full screen: "Caution: Shift to the P position when parked. The batteries will not charge if the shift position is in Neutral (N)."
|-
| All others
| ?
| none

|-
|rowspan=3 |2
|rowspan=3 |Screen doesn't change
|rowspan=3 |00h
| 0 (01h)
| General problem
| Top strip: "Problem", 1 beep
|-
| 1 (02h):
| General problem with triangle
| Top strip: "Problem", 1 beep, red triangle
|-
| All others
| ?
| none

|-
|rowspan=4 |3
|rowspan=4 |Screen doesn't change
|rowspan=4 |8Ch
| 2:0 (00h to 07h)
| SOC bars
| number of bars on SOC display: 0 to 7 = 1 to 8 bars
|-
| 3 (08h)
| brake depressed
| none
|-
| 7 (80h)
| ? Always set
| no effect
|-
| All others
| ?
| none

|-
|rowspan=3 |4
|rowspan=3 |Switch to Energy Monitor screen
|rowspan=3 |00h
| 6 (40h)
| EV mode
| none
|-
| 7 (80h):
| EV denied
| 3 beeps
|-
| All others
| ?
| none

|-
|rowspan=3 |5
|rowspan=3 |Screen doesn't change
|rowspan=3 |00h
| 4 (10h)
| Parking brake problem
| Full screen: "There's a problem with the transmission 'P' lock mechanism. Park you car on a flat surface, and fully apply the parking brake."
|-
| 5, 6 or 7 (20h, 40h or 80h):
| EV denied
| Top strip: "Cannot change to EV mode now"
|-
| All others
| ?
| none

|-
|6
|none
|00h
| All
| ?
| none

|}

To override the display, you need to put on the CAN bus that message, in such way the instrument cluster sees your message instead of the original one from the Hybrid ECU. If not done right, the MFD will flicker rapidly between the display that the Prius wants to show, and the one you want to show.

==12 V system==

===Current draw from 12 V battery===
When the 12 V battery is first connected, the car draws 1.5 A from it for about 30 seconds, then 0.62 A. That amount is enough to discharge the small 12 V battery in a matter of days.

===Charging the 12 V battery===
To charge a dead 12 V battery, without disconnecting it from the car, you can't use a trickle charger that provides just a few hundred milliamps. If you do, the car electronics will turn on, attempt to draw 1.5 A, swamping the trickle charger, and no current will get to the battery. Instead, you need a charger capable of more than 1.5 A (say, 2 A minimum), to handle the initial draw from the car electronics, and still have something left to charge the battery.

Alternatively, you can charge the 12 V battery by disconnecting it from the car.

===Resetting after reconnecting the 12 V battery===
After reconnecting the 12 V battery, you must calibrate the "Auto" function of the driver's window. If you don't do this, you can't open or close the window all the way with the Auto switch.
* Open window half-way
* Pull and hold window switch up until window is all the way up, and hold an additional 1 second or more

==Limit to continuous EV operation==
The Prius relies on the engine running for distribution of lubricant oil on the gears of the CTV (Continuously Variable Transmission). As its stock EV-only operation is limited to at most a couple of miles, after which the engine must run, it ensures that lubrication happens on a regular basis. Which leads to concerns that in a plug-in converted Prius, the larger battery allows longer EV-only operation, without lubrication. Implying that therefore, a plug-in conversion must ensure that it causes the Prius to restart the engine every few miles, then return to EV operation.

However upon further examination it should be noted that in EV-only mode all motive torque is provided by MG2 and thus not transmitted through the CVT or ''PSD (Power Split Device)'' which might more accurately be referred to as a [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Prius_Technical_Stuff/message/15705 TSD (Torque Split Device)]. There was a related thread implying that lubrication, while not actively circulated without the ICE running, is still present yet not as critical during EV-only mode. A number of converted PHEV Prius are operating in EV-only mode for extended distances of 10 to 30 or more miles without any adverse effects to the CVT, but we will be sure to update this section should that change in the future.

{{Disclaimer}}

[[Category:PHEV]]
[[Category:Prius]]
[[Category:Hybrids-Plus]]

PriusPlus-Instructions

2008-03-29T14:10:06Z

Cewert: /* LED Board */ not needed for CAN control board

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----
Welcome to the PriusPlus Do-It-Yourself documentation. Below you will find details on converting your 2004-2007 Prius to a plug-in hybrid via the [[PriusPlus]] method. The documentation is laid out in three parts. The [[PriusPlus]] gives an overview of the conversion and lists benefits, limitations and normal operating behavior. [[PriusPlus-Theory]] gives details the theory behind how the conversion works. The PriusPlus-Instructions page (this page) gives detailed, ordered instructions on how to convert your Prius yourself.

==Choosing a Mounting Method==
Before getting too far, you will need to decide on a mounting method. Currently, there are 2 methods, each with their benefits. The majority of the instructions are the same for both methods, however, some sections will be labeled as "classic mounting method" and others as "alternative mounting method" and contain instructions for the specific method.

===Classic Mounting Method===
The "Classic" method is the classic CalCars style. The spare tire well is largely unchanged, the batteries are placed in the very rear of the trunk, an electronics tray is placed in front of the batteries and the charger is placed in the left cubby hole (the carpeting in the cubby hole is cut back.) This method allows for easy access to all the electronics, including the charger.

<gallery>
Image:P10400.JPG|Classic method - spare tire well
Image:P10398.JPG|Classic method - charger
Image:Sven_car_finished_trunk_view.JPG|Finished trunk (top view)
</gallery>

===Alternative Mounting Method===
The "Alternative" method seeks to maximize usable trunk space and minimize visible changes. With this design, the batteries are moved as far forward as possible and the supporting electronics and charger are located in the spare tire well. The batteries stick up through the false floor, but are flush with the Prius's floor. Most of the high voltage electronics are isolated from the low voltage electronics, however some of the high voltage electronics and the charger are more difficult to access because they are below the batteries (they tend to be the more reliable parts, however.) The low voltage electronics are easily accessible.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well.jpg|Spare tire well
Image:Batteries_being_installed_2.jpg|Location of Batteries
Image:Finished Alt Mounting Method.jpg|Finished Product
</gallery>

==CAN-View & EV Mode button==
===Overview===
Start by installing CAN-View. CAN-View gives you insight into how the Prius works and it is best to have it installed before doing the conversion. Please see [[PriusPlus-Theory]] for more information on what [[CAN-View]] and [[Prius EV Mode Button]] do and how they work.

You will need to purchase [[CAN-View]] from [http://hybridinterfaces.ca hybridinterfaces.ca]. There are currently 4 versions of [[CAN-View]] available. Version 3 and 3plus require an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or [[MFD]]) while Version 4 and 4plus work with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) Version 4 has the PHEV relays built onto the main board, while version 3 has an extra optional PHEV relay board, which is required for this conversion. Version 3plus and 4plus feature a smart relay board which can interact with battery regulators. At the present, the PriusPlus conversion method does not make use of the smart relay features in the "plus" models.

===Installation===
Approx. time requirement: 45 minutes - 2 hours

The [[CAN-View]] is installed differently depending on whether or not your car is equipped with in-dash navigation. Detailed instructions with photos are available [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html with NAV] or [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html without NAV]. It is best to install and route the wires for the [[Prius EV Mode Button]] at the same time since they both require disassembling the dash.

'''ToDo''' the following section is shared with the [[PiPrius_conversion_process#CAN-View_.26_EV_Mode_Button]] documentation. Any changes should be generic enough to satisfy both, place project specific notes above or below it. Another set of instructions may be needed for the CAN-View Version 4 which does not integrate with the OEM [[MFD]] and gets power directly from the OBDII port, [http://priuschat.com/index.php?act=ST&f=62&t=27906 Prius CAN View V4 Mounting options] at PriusChat.com covers various ways of mounting the second touch screen.

{{Prius CAN-ViewV3 & EV-Mode Button}}

==Battery Tray Construction==
===Overview===
The next step is to start constructing the mechanical components which will be used in the conversion. The battery trays are where the new lead-acid (PbA) batteries will sit. The trays will then be mounted on rails in the trunk and a top will be placed over it to secure the batteries down. The battery trays are the same for both the classic and alternative mounting methods.

Approx. Time Requirement: 10-12 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits: 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 7/32
* Hacksaw with metal blade (or other method of cutting 1/8 inch aluminum)
* Drill or Dremel
* Drill or Dremel press recommended
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Wood saw
* Pop riveting tool
* Grinder (either an attachment for Dremel or bench grinder)

===Parts needed===
* Aluminum material
** Either 3/4" or 1" by 1/8" thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections, 1x 4 foot section)
** 1/4" Aluminum channel iron (1x 8 foot section, 1x 4 foot section)
* 32 5/32 thick, 1/4 inch grip pop rivets
* 32 #4 flat head self threading screws at least 1/2 inch long
* Small piece of plywood for making jig (optional, but makes things easier.)
* Small pieces of wood for making jig (optional)
* Wood screws (optional)

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 sections of the 1/4" aluminum channel iron to the exact length of the batteries (should be 7 1/16 inches.) Having the batteries actually present is important for measuring. A total of 16 of these pieces will be required for all 4 trays.
# Lay out 5 batteries and put the 1/4" aluminum channel irons between the batteries. Measure out the length and cut 2 sections of the aluminum angle irons to the length of the batteries (should be 16 5/16 inches.) A total of 8 of these sections will be required for all 4 trays. See photos below for how to layout the pack.
# Layout 5 batteries with the angle irons from above and measure the width and cut the 2 end pieces (should be 7 1/4 inches.) A total of 8 of these pieces will be required for all 4.
# Lay everything out on top of a piece of plywood and double check measurements with batteries set in the tray as shown below. It is important that the end pieces are under the pieces that run along the length of the tray.
# Screw down blocks of wood around outside of the frame as shown to hold the outside angle irons exactly where they are.
# Remove the batteries one by one and put in pieces of wood where the batteries were to hold frame and aluminum channel irons in place. This jig will hold all the pieces together while drilling.
# Using a small drill press or preferably a Dremel drill press, drill 2 3/32" holes into each corner (or probably only one if using 3/4" angle irons.)
# Once the holes are drilled, remove the top angle iron (the 16 5/16 inch one) and using a 1/8" drill bit, widen the holes so that the #4 screws can pass through them freely (only do this on the longer angle iron, not the bottom!) Then counter-sink with a 7/32" drill bit so that the screw will sit flush in the aluminum (see photo below.)
# Put in #4 self threading screws. The screws should grab into the smaller angle iron and hold the angle irons together firmly. The screws will stick out the other side.
# Using a cutoff attachment on a Dremel (or a hacksaw, but Dremel works much better), cut the screws off. Then grind them down flat using the cut off attachment on a Dremel or a bench grinder.
# Re-insert the finished angle iron frame into jig, and place channel irons in place. Drill 5/32" holes at each end.
# Using a pop-riveting tool, insert 5/32" aluminum rivets into the channel irons from the bottom and tighten.
# Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 trays.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All necessary cut aluminum pieces for 4 trays
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Tray set together with batteries
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|Tray parts laid out
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Place wood around tray frame
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in aluminum
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Finished corner with screws in
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Classic Method)==
Approx. Time Requirement:

===Overview===
The battery box supports are what the battery trays will sit on. In the classic method, aluminum angle irons are bolted onto 2 steel tubes which are bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the alternative method, skip this section and goto the next section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 2 3 foot long 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch steel tubes.
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length may be slightly long, you will probably need to adjust the length when mounting!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly. This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Cut the steel tubes to the appropriate length ('''Todo''' Get exact length)
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays for a 1/4" nut.
# Mark the locations where the aluminum angles sit on the steel tube and drill holes.
# Drill holes in the opposite side of the steel tube, big enough to fit the head of a bolt through
# Drill 2 additional holes in each steel tube in the middle of where each tray will sit. Again, drill out the other side so a nut can be fit through it. Then put a threaded 5/8" threaded rod through the hole and put a nut on each side (and a lockwasher on one side.) This will serve as the holddown for the battery box top.
# Drill 4 holes through the tube, evenly spaced over the entire length. These holes are for mounting the battery box frame to the car.
# Drill additional holes as needed to support the electronics tray
# Once holes are all drilled, coat the steel tube with anti-rust paint / spraypaint.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:P1240040.JPG|The completed battery box sitting on steel tubes (unattached)
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Top_Battery_Box_With_Corner_Bracket.JPG|During construction, shows supports without optional strip in center.
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Alternative Method)==
[[Image:Alt Mounting Diagram.png|thumb|The alternative mounting method diagram]]
Approx. Time Requirement: 4-7 hours

===Overview===
In the alternative mounting method, the battery trays sit on aluminum angle irons which either sit directly on the trunk or on rubber pads (which allow the use of battery heaters.) The battery box is supported by brackets attached to the OEM battery mouting screws and two steel angle irons bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the classic mounting method, skip this section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)
* Bench grinder

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 16 inches of steel 1 1/2 inch angle iron
* 2 joist hangers for electrical conduit
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts
* 1/4" nuts
* 1/4" or 1/8" rubber pads (optional, but required if heating pads are to be installed.)
* anti-rust paint or spraypaint

===Assembly Steps===
===The center strip===
# See the diagram to the right to see how everything assembles.
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length is too long, you will need to adjust the length when mounting, so be careful drilling holes, test fit first!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly (for strength). This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Lay out 2 aluminum angles so they form a "T" with the top of the "T" being on the floor. Optionaly insert the aluminum strip into the middle
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays in the middle for a 1/4" nut.
# Drill holes through each end of the assembly to anchor the two angles (and optionally the strip) together. The holes must be outside where the battery trays will sit (remember to leave space for a 1/4" nut (which is larger than 1/4")
# Optionally, cut rubber pads to go under each of the aluminum angles.
# Other holes will need to be drilled later when ready to mount.

===Steel Angle Iron Brackets===
# Cut 4 sections of steel angle iron about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long
# Drill a 3/8" hole in the center on one side of the angle iron.
# On the inside of the angle iron, weld (or use JB weld or another strong epoxy) a 5/8" nut on the inside so a bolt can go through the angle iron and into the nut
# Drill a 5/8" hole in the center of the other side of the angle iron
# Paint the steel with a clean metal anti-rust primer (then allow to dry)
# Spray or paint the primed steel with anti-rust paint

===Steel Supports===
# Cut 2 sections of steel angle iron about 4 inches long each
# Drill 2 5/8" holes in the bottom of the angle iron
# These will be used later for mounting into the Prius - the rest of the assembly must be done later

'''Todo''' This isn't finished - check the diagram for more details

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Alt method support angle irons.jpg|Test fitting in the Prius
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Support Steel mounted
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Shows the optional rubber pads
Image:Right_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the right side
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the left side
Image:Entire_alt_batt_box_mounting_supports.jpg|With the battery trays in
</gallery>

==Battery Box Top==
Approx. Time Requirement: 10 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits:
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade very helpful (must be capable of 45 degree angles.)
* Tablesaw with Plexiglass blade, or other method of cutting Plexiglass
* Drill
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Dremmel
* Cutoff attachment for Dremmel

===Parts Needed===
* Aluminum material
** 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
** 1 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (1x 4 foot sections for classic - 8 feet for the alternative mounting method)
* Corner brackets - can be found at Mennards in shelving hardware section
* 24x #8-32 flat head machine screws
* 16x #8-32 nuts
* 8x #8-32 x 1/4 inch binding posts
* 1/4 inch Plexiglass or (preferably) Lexan sheet, at least 33 inches by 18.5 inches.
* 4 small non-conductive nylon screw and binding posts (for holding Plexiglass "shields")

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 2 strips of Plexiglass (or Lexan) 32.5 inches by 1.5 inches. These peices will act as a sheild between the battery terminals and the aluminum (to prevent shorts.)
# Cut opposing 45 degree angle at the end of 2 of the 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron peices to form one of the corners.
# Layout the four trays in the frame angle irons (important for getting correct measurements.)
# Place 4 batteries in the trays, one in each corner (see photo.)
# Place electrical tape over the terminals on the batteries to help prevent any arcs.
# Make sure to leave space for the middle bolt down and bolts for the frame. (The battery box base isn't finished yet and requires space in the middle.)
# Set one of the cut angle irons on top of the batteries (be sure not to arc the batteries!) Place the Plexiglass "Shield" in place and use clamps to it there. This allows for accurate measurements.
# Lay the other angle iron with the opposing 45 degree angle out and measure the width & cut with a 45 degree angle (end peice should be about 15 3/8 inches wide.)
# Hold the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top to the end of the battery pack (use clamps to hold it on.) For the classic mounting method, this is only required on the left and right sides. For the alternative mouting method, the angles should go around the entire battery box top.
# Holding the angle irons and bolt down angle iron right where they should be, set the corner bracket on the corner and make sure that it covers the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the battery box.
# Mark where the holes on the top of the bracket are on the angle iron (or drill holes if necessary.)
# Using the Dremmel cutoff tool, cut down the binding post so that it does not stick all the way thought the bracket if set on top (see picture.)
# Drill a hole in the angle iron and countersink it so that the #8 flat top machine screw fits flush. Put screw in and repeate for the other angle iron.
# Repeate for other sides cutting the angle irons to the right lengths. The length of the angle iron on the side of the battery box should be 34 inches.
# To strengthen the structure of the top, drill holes in from the sides, countersink from the inside and bolt using #8 flat head screws and nuts (bolting the top down is important, remember that the top must hold weight if the car goes over large bumps or is involved in an accident or rollover.)
# Using a drill press or drill, drill through the Plexiglass on the side and the aluminum angle irons near the edges. Countersink the hole in the Plexiglass and insert non-conductive nylon screws and binding posts to hold Plexiglass in place.
# Using the Dremmel with cutoff attachment, grind off the bolts that are sticking out.
# Cut the Plexiglass sheet to the correct length and width to fit snuggly into the top of the battery box.
# Holes need to be drilled into the bolt down angle irons on each side, but I don't have those measurements and it depends how it is bolted down. Holes also need to be drilled in the middle on each aluminum angle iron to clamp down the top to the bottom of the battery box for extra strength.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
</gallery>

===Tips===
* If you are buying a new metal cutoff blade for an existing chopsaw, make sure to get one that is large enough to actually cut all the way through the metal with your specific chopsaw.
* Aluminum blades with small teeth do not seem to work well for cutting through 1/8 aluminum angle irons! They grab and tend to throw the saw and are almost impossible to control. Don't attempt an aluminum cutting blade with teeth on a radial saw!
* A hacksaw can work in place of the metal cutoff blade, however it is much more difficult to get straight cuts, even with a metal guide for the hacksaw.
* A jig saw seems to work well for cutting the aluminum angle irons

==Control Board==

There are presently 2 control board options. The Interim control board (also known as the Basic control board) and the CAN control board (still in the early stages, but available)

The Interim control board (a.k.a. basic control board) is used to drive contactors from CAN-View. With this setup, CAN-View is required and is the controlling computer, the Interim control board interprets the signals from CAN-View and drives the contactors. So if you have CAN-View, and you want to use it to control the conversion, this is the board you need. If you go the CAN control board route, neither of these are used. The Interim board costs around $14.50 for the board itself, and roughly $25 for components (or $65 pre-assembled.) The Interim board is available here: [http://www.uninterruptiblesolutions.com/ev-components-c-30.html]. The DigiKey Quick order parts list for the Interim board is here: [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1016141].

The CAN control board talks directly with the car over the CAN bus and also contains the circuitry to drive the contactors, so the board takes over what CAN-View used to be used for as well as takes over what the Interim control board does, so neither CAN-View nor the Interim control board are used in this setup. The CAN control board can do everything the CAN-View + Interim control board setup can do plus more (SOC spoofing, sense if the car is still plugged in when you stat it up, etc.) The CAN control board's software is open source and can easily be updated / customized with knowledge of C programming language and a PIC programmer.

In either case, however, CAN-View or ScanGuage are very valuable for telling what is going on behind the scenes of the car and making sure that everything is working properly and highly recommended.

==LED Board==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|LED Board, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
Approx. time requirement: 2 hours

This board is optional and can only be used with the Interim control board. The CAN control board takes the place of this board.

===Tools Needed===
* Soldering Iron
* Solder

===Parts Needed===
See the [[PriusPlus-PartsList]] page for the parts list.

'''Todo''' The schematics need to be updated to match new schematics.

==Electronic/Electric Sub Part Construction==
===Diode===
The diode must be firmly and correctly mounted to the heatsink. The diode has a 1/4" stud which passes through the heatsink but does not touch the heatsink. A shoulder or insulating nylon tube must be placed over the stud where the diode passes through the heatsink. This is important so the diode does not electrically make contact with the heatsink. Additionally, 2 electrically insulating, but thermally conductive pads (or mica) must be used on both sides of the heatsink to prevent the diode from making contact on either side of the heatsink. See photos below for how to mount the diode:

====Photos====
<gallery>
Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
</gallery>

===Snubbers===
Solder together one lead of the .47uF, 500V capacitor and one lead of the 22 ohm 1 watt resistor. Put heat shrink tubing around the other 2 leads and crimp on ring terminals and solder the crimps to the leads for a better connection. The snubbers are then placed across the two contactors.

===Low Voltage Interconnects===
A list of helpful Molex connector tools on DigiKey can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014151 here].

'''Todo'''

==Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
[[Image:Electronics Tray Classic.png|thumb|Electronics Tray diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help''' Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut the bottom, back, sides. Cut holes in the fans on the sides, and use small shelving brackets to secure the pieces together. Attach electronic components with screws. Plexiglass top.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:P10380.JPG|The electronics tray
</gallery>

==Electronics Box (Alternative)==
[[Image:Electronics Box Alternative.png|thumb|Electronics Box diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help'''. Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut a bottom, sides, back, front, middle divider, fan divider, and rear top. The front top is 1/4" plexiglass for easy viewing (or more ABS if preferred.) The fan divider is designed to be easily retractable for easy replacement without removing the battery box. Mount the fuse holders with 2 screws in the middle, the contactors, power supply, relays, etc. Preferably use very short self tapping screws that don't go through the plastic to provide electrical isolation from the rest of the car (optional.) It may be useful to use a Dremmel with a small drill bit to star the hole, use the self tapping screw to start the thread and then use a cutoff small screw. Otherwise, countersink a flat head screw on the outside of the box and use nuts and lock washers on the inside.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics Box Assembly - Side Vents.jpg|Starting with the materials
Image:Electronics_box_being_assembled.jpg|The electronics box taped together
Image:Electronics Box Assembly Mounting Components.jpg|Components being mounted
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_1.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_2.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:HVD1_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the diode
Image:Left_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Left outside of electronics box
Image:Right_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Right outside of the electronics box
Image:Contactors_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted contactors
Image:Fuses_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted fuses
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well_2.jpg|The electronics box with the HV section's cover resting on top
</gallery>

==Installation Into the Prius==
Now that the sub components are built, it is time to start installing things into the Prius. The following sections will each attempt to leave the Prius in a drivable state after the section is completed.

=Disassembling the Prius=
==Remove user-removable parts==
'''Todo''' This needs to be finished
Remove the false floor, the central storage bin, side storage bin and spare tire.

==Battery Carpet & Seat Removal==
{| align=right
| [[Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|thumb|These bolts must be taken out]]
|| [[Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|thumb|Shows the carpeting being removed from the OEM battery]]
|| [[Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|thumb|right|Removing the bolts for the rear seats]]
|}
Remove the two bolts holding down the carpeting over the OEM battery. Be sure to keep them in a plastic bag so they do not get lost. Then lift up on the Velcro attaching to the rear seats. Then, simply pull straight up on the carpeting assembly. It will snap out and expose the top of the OEM battery. There are 2 carpeting clips that must be removed to fully remove the cover from the OEM battery.

With the OEM battery carpeting removed (or the Velcro simply pulled up), remove the two bolts holding in the seat. The seat back then comes out giving access to the front side of the OEM battery (needed for the OEM tie-in.)

==Side panel Removal==
Both of the carpeted side panels in the rear of the Prius must be removed. The driver's side panel must be removed to access the OEM battery for tie-in, and the passenger's side must be removed to access the OEM battery fan to add the override wiring.
# Remove the screen from the trunk (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the cover from the driver's side storage cubby hole (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the black strip in the very rear of the trunk (where the latch is for the trunk) by simply lifting straight up (it will pop out.)
# Remove the arm rest sections on the outside of the seats ('''Todo - add photos''')
# Remove the 10mm bolt inside the screen holder using a ratchet with an extension
# Remove the 10mm bolt in the back of the side panel in the section which holds the screen if were deployed. This can be done with a 10mm ratchet or a screwdriver.
# Pull straight out on the entire assembly.
# On the drivers side, there is a wire which connects to the trunk lamp which needs to be disconnected.
# Repeat instructions for the passenger's side.

==Routing CAN-View cables to trunk==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be improved.

Take off the kick panels on either the driver's side or passenger's side, insert CAN-View cable, ribbon cable (for LED board) and EV mode cable (1 wire) and route into trunk.

==Air Vents (Classic Method)==
Remove spare tire and the two black drain plugs that sit in the tire well. You may have to use a dremmel to open the hole so you can drop in the [Delete later-(Ron I think I found a piece of conduit that will flush mount in here. The PVC pipe can be glued to it. I’ll get you a part number and picture. By doing this a project could be prepped weeks in advance and the spare will still fit in there until the final conversion days.) ] 2” PVC threaded coupling. Next connect the 2” 90 deg. Elbow and then a length of 2” PVC pipe per this photo (add photo showing underside of car with both pipes pointing back to the rear.)

==Installing the Outlet Box (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''Please help us finish this section! Write chris at infolaunch.com to help and for the 120 volt wiring schematics that need to be posted here.'''

Take a standard plastic wall 4 gang outlet box, route a 12/3 cable into the box (with strain relief), and wire one duplex (2 individual outlets) directly to the incoming power. Then wire one outlet of the other duplex through one relay, and the other through the second relay (such that the outlets are on only when the relays are on.) The 2 individual outlets controlled by relays are designed for heating pads for the OEM battery and the PHEV battery pack. The other 2, always on when plugged in outlets are designed to power the charger and the power supply.

==Install Charger / Electronics Box (Alternative Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded.

'''Todo''' Add relevant photos from RawData page

Take a sheet of zinc coated steel and cut it out so that it fits neatly in the bottom of the tire well. Drill a hole in the center where the spare tire screw goes (used to hold the sheet in place.) Then, place the charger in the back, behind the center hole. It may be necessary to use pipe or washers to offset the charger from the steel sheet an inch or so to get it to fit (depends on charger used.) Drill holes through the steel sheet and mount charger to it. Then, put a thin carpet or sturdy insulation on the underside of the steel sheet to prevent rattling while driving. It may be necessary to use a 3/4" small block of wood with a hole through the middle to offset the center of the steel where the screw goes into the tire well mount to keep the steel from bending / rattling while driving. The screw is metric. Then, using several strips of extra strength velcro, velcro the bottom of the electronics box to the steel sheet.

==Install Batt. Box Foundation / Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
Line up the battery box support steel tubes where they should go and drill holes into the trunk floor. It may be necessary to remove part or all of the heat shielding from the muffler on the underside of the car to find the holes. Bolt down.

('''Todo''' Need to detail removing the heat shield on the underside of the car.)
To remove the plastic shield on the driver's side rear of the car, use a flat screw driver to pop out the 3 fasteners. On the back of the shield there is a 10mm bolt holding the plastic shield in place which also needs to be removed.

==Install Battery Box Foundation (Alternative Method)==
[[Image:Alt Mounting Diagram.png|thumb|The alternative mounting method diagram]]

'''Todo''' This needs to be better documented

Remove the two bolts holding down the OEM battery in that stick out into the tire well. Mount the modified I beam brackets so that the back with the screw hole is facing directly towards the back of the car. Drill a hole in the rear support aluminum angle iron to match with those screw holes, countersink a flat screw into that. (see diagram and photos for details on how everything goes together.) On the driver's side, drill a hole through the aluminum for the post on the SKS sensor. The middle section just sits on the steel floor, though bolts into the Prius body may be a good idea. (its held in primarily by the battery box top, but extra strength in the event of a crash would be good.) The rear piece needs to have holes drilled in the Prius steel floor and the steel angle irons (see diagram) bolted to either the steel floor or to the frame member below them off to the side a bit. If bolting to the steel floor, a steel strip on the opposite side should be used, and at least 2 bolts should be used for added strength.

==OEM Battery Fan Control Tap==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|Fan Control, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
'''Todo''' Upload new version of schematic

Taps must be added to force the OEM fan on at lower temperatures so the car can remain in EV mode.

The tapping is done at the OEM battery fan. You reach it by taking the right rear inner body panel off (instructions in the Toyota service manual), reaching up inside the ducting, above the right rear wheelwell, and unplugging the power plug to the fan. The plug is not visible; you must unplug it (and plug it in again) by feel. The plug has two light green wires attached to one pin, and two violet wires attached to the other.

Use #18 or larger wires for all of the following. All three wires are run down to the control board, then the OEM battery plug is plugged back into the fan.

Alternative 1: Attach a green wire to one or both of the light green wires, e.g. via a red clip-on wire splice (make sure it makes solid contact). Then cut both of the violet wires about 2" from the OEM battery fan plug. Splice a violet wire onto both of the violet wires that were cut off, and a black wire to one or both of the violet wires still attached to the plug. Splice all three (1N5402, 1N5403, or 1N5404) 3A diodes in parallel as shown, between the violet and black wires near the fan plug, with the cathode (the end with the band) connected to the violet wire. For proper heat dissipation, make sure that the leads and all connections are well insulated, that the body of each diode is open to air flow, and that the diodes are not pressed against each other, and that the whole assembly, when the plug is plugged in, is solidly suspended in mid-air. Three 3A diodes are used in parallel for a maximum of 5A because heat dissipation may be compromised even when installed as above. The other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

<gallery>
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

Alternative 2 (does not cut Prius wires, but is expensive): Buy two each of the following Toyota replacement OEM battery plug and mating pins:
OEM battery fan plug pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12380
OEM battery fan plug mating pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12370
Splice one plug pin, a mating pin, and a green wire together. Splice a black wire to a plug pin, and a violet wire to a mating pin. Splice the three 1N5402 diodes between the violet and black wires as described above. Now remove the pin with the light green wires from the OEM battery fan plug, connect it to the mating pin with the green wire attached, and secure with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the green wire into the OEM battery fan plug. Next, remove the pin with the violet wires from the OEM battery plug and connect it to the mating pin with the violet wire attached, again securing it with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the black wire into the OEM battery fan plug. The pins are removed one at a time so that there is no possibility of getting them reversed when inserting the new pins. As above, the other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

The pins can be removed from the OEM battery fan plug by inserting a tiny screwdriver from the back to push the plastic catch aside while pulling on the wire attached to the pin.

==Safety Warning & Tips==
Batteries can be dangerous and can cause serious injury or death and should only be worked on by persons qualified to do so. Both energy hazards from arcs (shorts) and electrical shock can cause serious injury or be fatal with a battery pack of this size. Battery packs are always live and cannot be shut off! The following are safety tips to help prevent arcs and shocks, but they are only tips and should not be taken as a go-ahead to perform work on battery packs. Extreme caution must be taken as it is very easy to accidentally set something on the battery without thinking or drop something and cause a shock or arc. Hire a qualified electrician to help for this part if there is any doubt.

* Remove all jewelry, especially gold, before working with batteries.
* Do not allow metal to come into contact with the batteries that could cause an arc (best practice is to not allow any metal near the battery at all.
* Use only fully insulated tools around batteries, especially in tight spaces (available in the electrical department in most hardware stores.)
* When wiring batteries, be sure the other end of the wire will not accidentally come into contact with any other part of the battery or metal frames. Taping or otherwise protecting the ends of wires is recommended.
* Wear rated rubber electricians gloves and outer protective gloves. Electricians gloves are not fail-proof and every effort should be made to only touch insulated tools even when wearing gloves.
* If electrician gloves aren't used, only one hand should be used so that a shock will not pass current through the heart.
* Always wear gloves when working on batteries (preferably rubber.)
* Install the jumpers in 48 volt sections and then connect those smaller sections together at the very end. This way voltages higher than 48 volts are only handled when installing 4 jumpers instead of 16.
* Even though the batteries are sealed, it is still possible for them to leak and splatter acid, especially if they are just charged, heated or an arc occurs. If a leak occurs, use baking soda to neutralize the acid and properly dispose. Eye protection is a good idea.
* Orient batteries in the tray to avoid terminal contact with any bolts or any metal pieces.

==Tapping into OEM Battery==
{{Disclaimer}}

This step '''MUST''' be performed by someone qualified to work on high voltage systems. Rated rubber electricians gloves should be used for working on the inside of the battery. Please fully read the Safety section before before attempting anything. Lethal voltages are present. Hire a qualified professional for this portion.

'''Todo: This section is not finished'''

Tools needed
* Voltmeter (capable of at least 300 volts DC)
* Ratchet

Parts needed
* 3 #6 AWG ring terminal crimps (an extra is good)
* 2 #8 AWG ring terminal crimps (extras are good)
* small 1 foot section of 6 AWG wire (with insulation rated 600v or higher, preferably THHN)
* non-conductive rubber cap
* electrical tape
* several feet of #8 AWG wire with insulation rated 600v or higher
* optional: 3/8" flex tubing
* optional: other flexible conduit

# Before attempting to open the OEM battery, the orange service disconnect '''MUST''' be fully removed from the OEM battery. To do this, lift up on the orange ring. Once it pops up, push the top part out, away from the battery. This will remove the service disconnect from the battery. Do not re-install the service disconnect until the OEM battery has been closed up. '''BE AWARE, THERE ARE STILL HIGH, LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE THE BATTERY EVEN THOUGH THE DISCONNECT HAS BEEN REMOVED!'''
# Take off the support holding the OEM battery in place. The bolts are found on the driver's side wheel well, on the OEM battery and behind the driver's side rear seat top (the seat top must be removed, see above for information on removing the seat back.)
# Carefully remove the bolts holding the cover on the driver's side of the OEM battery. The 2 bolts will need to be removed from where the orange cables come out of the battery to remove the cover. '''DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE'''
# Once opened, just beyond where the two orange wires enter the OEM battery there are 2 contactors with 2 white plastic shields on top. '''NEVER TOUCH THE TWO TERMINALS AT THE SAME TIME''' Using rated, insulated electrician's rubber gloves remove one of the white plastic pieces by lifting straight up. Using a voltmeter, test the DC voltage between the contactor terminal and ground. If voltage is present (often > 100 volts DC) keep the multimeter on the terminal until the voltage decreases to below 1 volt. '''After''' that has been done on one, remove the other white plastic piece and repeat for the other side. Then check the voltage between all of the contactor terminals (all 4) to ensure they are zero. '''This step must be repeated any time the orange service plug has been inserted into the battery to ensure safety.
# Disconnect the negative wire coming from the OEM battery from the contactor. It is the one fed through the hall effect sensor (see photo.) The wire must be removed from the hall effect sensor.
# Take the piece of 6AWG wire with a 6AWG ring connector firmly attached at both ends and feed it through the hall effect sensor and connect it to the contactor where you just removed the OEM negative battery wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Feed in the new #8 AWG wire from the electronics tray through the opening where the 2 orange wires come through. Attach a #8 AWG ring connector to the wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Bolt the #6 wire from the negative contactor, the negative wire from the OEM battery and the negative #8 AWG (black) wire from the electronics tray together as shown using a lockwasher (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Then wrap tightly with electrical tape (preferably orange), so that the entire assembly is covered with several layers of tape.
# Place a rubber cap on the top and wrap the rubber assembly in tape and attach firmly to the rest of the wire.
# Next, crimp on a #8 AWG ring terminal to the #8 Red wire coming from the electronics tray.
# Remove the bolt on the positive contactor's terminal and add the #8 AWG wire as shown (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Replace the white insulators that came off the top of the contactors
# Route the wire in the same way as the black wire out area where the 2 orange wires run
# Make sure there is a little slack wire inside the OEM battery. Then, optionally wrap the 3/8" flex tubing around the 2 new wires to the electronics tray and wrap them in orange electrical tape (orange is keeping in standard for high voltage wiring in hybrids.)
# '''Before reconnecting anything, be absolutely sure that the other end of the high voltage wires are fully insulated (i.e., make sure the Anderson PP75 connectors are on and that there is electrical tape preventing them from accidentally contacting any metal.'''
# Tap a yellow #22 or larger wire onto the yellow low voltage wire going to one of the contactors and route to the electronics tray or box.
'''Todo''' Add a photo of the yellow READY wire.

<gallery>
Image:OEM_battery_exposed.jpg|The OEM battery with the support bracket removed
Image:Opening_OEM_battery.jpg|Removing the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_after_tie_in.jpg|After the OEM battery tie in is done
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_from_back_of_car.jpg|Shows the 2 white insulators on the contactors
</gallery>

==Tap into the 12v Accessory Battery==
Run 4 18 AWG wires (2 red, 2 black) from the electronics tray or box to the 12 volt accessory battery (located under the passenger side cubby hole. The 2 red wires should run into a 15 amp 32volt automotive fuse. The other side of the fuse should go to the 12v accessory battery. The black wire should either goto the black terminal on the battery or the chassis (but it must be a very clean connection to the chassis.) The other side of the wires goes to the control board through a .156" Molex KK connector.

==Reassemble the Prius Trunk==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written

==Connecting the PbA batteries==
'''Todo''' Much work needed yet

===Parts Needed===
* Qty 50 8 AWG crimp on ring terminals (probably wise to get a few extra!)
* 8 AWG wire (list total length used here.)
* Orange electrical tape
* 20x BB Battery EVP20-12B 12volt 20ah SLA AGM batteries (2 spares recommended.)

===Assembly Steps===
{{Disclaimer}}

'''Warning: Get an electrician or qualified person to do this, this is working with high voltages which can be lethal or start fires if not taken seriously.'''

Place trays in the foundation and the batteries in trays (look at photos on RawData page to see sequence.) Using crimp on ring terminals, make lengths of wire long enough to connect batteries and crimp the ring terminals on well. Make sure the crimps are very tight and make good contact. This is very important because they could otherwise heat up extremely hot and melt or start a fire. The batteries are arranged electrically into 4 60v sections. The front section and rear section are separated by one of the 60 amp 300v fuses (see HV schematics.) Each other section is separated by Anderson PP75 connectors for easy disconnect. Sections should be assembled individually to prevent voltages from being more than 60 volts until everything is ready to be connected and assembled. Leave the fuses disconnected until everything is finished. Then put on the battery box top and bolt it down.

==Optional Bumper Mounted Inlet==
This is an optional replacement for the mounted cord reel. There may be other inlets available, but a Marinco 150CCI works well and costs about $25-$30.

# Remove the plastic shield on the driver's side of the car if it hasn't been already (see above for instructions.)
# Using a circular drill bit with starting drill bit, drill a 1 7/8" hole in the bumper where you want the inlet to be mounted.
# Route the cable to the inlet before installing the inlet.
# Fasten the inlet to the bumper

==Optional Mounted Cord Reel (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written by someone who knows how to do this.

==The First Tests==
'''Todo''' This needs much more work

First, using a voltmeter check to make sure that voltages are present both from the OEM battery (should be 220v or so) and from the PHEV pack (should be around 260v.) Plug the car into a ground faulted (preferably also arc faulted) outlet and check to see if the car starts to charge the PHEV battery.

Power up the car very briefly and check to see if the control board turns on. With CAN-View in ORIG mode (not PHEV), make sure that HVRL1 and HVRL2 are both off. Some LEDs should be on on the LED board.

==Programming CAN-View/Control Board==

'''Todo''' Polish this description and format nicely like Ryan's PiPrius ones.

Set the dip switches on the control board:
DIPSW1: 1=OFF, 2=OFF, 3=ON, 4=ON, 5=ON [ HVRL1 = RL3 OR RL5 OR RL6 ] (RL2 will be reserved to force the OEM battery fan ON)
DIPSW1: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control the optional current-limiting power resistor)
DIPSW2: 1-5=OFF (later, 2=ON will force the OEM battery fan ON when RL2 is ON)
DIPSW2: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control a "Future use #1" output)

RL2 [settings don't yet matter]

For highway driving:
RL3 ON < 71 OFF > 73 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON 25 OFF < 30 Acl (Amps DCL)
ON > 45 OFF < 40 MPH
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
3 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

To stay in EV mode during acceleration:
RL5 ON < 200 OFF > 235V
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? YES

For low speeds, to promote EV mode driving:
RL6 ON < 61 OFF > 63 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

{{Disclaimer}}

[[Category:PHEV]]
[[Category:Prius]]
[[Category:PriusPlus]]
[[Category:CalCars]]

PriusPlus-Instructions

2008-03-29T14:07:35Z

Cewert: /* Control Board */ Removed old control board which was causing too much confusion, replaced with descriptions of new boards

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----
Welcome to the PriusPlus Do-It-Yourself documentation. Below you will find details on converting your 2004-2007 Prius to a plug-in hybrid via the [[PriusPlus]] method. The documentation is laid out in three parts. The [[PriusPlus]] gives an overview of the conversion and lists benefits, limitations and normal operating behavior. [[PriusPlus-Theory]] gives details the theory behind how the conversion works. The PriusPlus-Instructions page (this page) gives detailed, ordered instructions on how to convert your Prius yourself.

==Choosing a Mounting Method==
Before getting too far, you will need to decide on a mounting method. Currently, there are 2 methods, each with their benefits. The majority of the instructions are the same for both methods, however, some sections will be labeled as "classic mounting method" and others as "alternative mounting method" and contain instructions for the specific method.

===Classic Mounting Method===
The "Classic" method is the classic CalCars style. The spare tire well is largely unchanged, the batteries are placed in the very rear of the trunk, an electronics tray is placed in front of the batteries and the charger is placed in the left cubby hole (the carpeting in the cubby hole is cut back.) This method allows for easy access to all the electronics, including the charger.

<gallery>
Image:P10400.JPG|Classic method - spare tire well
Image:P10398.JPG|Classic method - charger
Image:Sven_car_finished_trunk_view.JPG|Finished trunk (top view)
</gallery>

===Alternative Mounting Method===
The "Alternative" method seeks to maximize usable trunk space and minimize visible changes. With this design, the batteries are moved as far forward as possible and the supporting electronics and charger are located in the spare tire well. The batteries stick up through the false floor, but are flush with the Prius's floor. Most of the high voltage electronics are isolated from the low voltage electronics, however some of the high voltage electronics and the charger are more difficult to access because they are below the batteries (they tend to be the more reliable parts, however.) The low voltage electronics are easily accessible.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well.jpg|Spare tire well
Image:Batteries_being_installed_2.jpg|Location of Batteries
Image:Finished Alt Mounting Method.jpg|Finished Product
</gallery>

==CAN-View & EV Mode button==
===Overview===
Start by installing CAN-View. CAN-View gives you insight into how the Prius works and it is best to have it installed before doing the conversion. Please see [[PriusPlus-Theory]] for more information on what [[CAN-View]] and [[Prius EV Mode Button]] do and how they work.

You will need to purchase [[CAN-View]] from [http://hybridinterfaces.ca hybridinterfaces.ca]. There are currently 4 versions of [[CAN-View]] available. Version 3 and 3plus require an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or [[MFD]]) while Version 4 and 4plus work with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) Version 4 has the PHEV relays built onto the main board, while version 3 has an extra optional PHEV relay board, which is required for this conversion. Version 3plus and 4plus feature a smart relay board which can interact with battery regulators. At the present, the PriusPlus conversion method does not make use of the smart relay features in the "plus" models.

===Installation===
Approx. time requirement: 45 minutes - 2 hours

The [[CAN-View]] is installed differently depending on whether or not your car is equipped with in-dash navigation. Detailed instructions with photos are available [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html with NAV] or [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html without NAV]. It is best to install and route the wires for the [[Prius EV Mode Button]] at the same time since they both require disassembling the dash.

'''ToDo''' the following section is shared with the [[PiPrius_conversion_process#CAN-View_.26_EV_Mode_Button]] documentation. Any changes should be generic enough to satisfy both, place project specific notes above or below it. Another set of instructions may be needed for the CAN-View Version 4 which does not integrate with the OEM [[MFD]] and gets power directly from the OBDII port, [http://priuschat.com/index.php?act=ST&f=62&t=27906 Prius CAN View V4 Mounting options] at PriusChat.com covers various ways of mounting the second touch screen.

{{Prius CAN-ViewV3 & EV-Mode Button}}

==Battery Tray Construction==
===Overview===
The next step is to start constructing the mechanical components which will be used in the conversion. The battery trays are where the new lead-acid (PbA) batteries will sit. The trays will then be mounted on rails in the trunk and a top will be placed over it to secure the batteries down. The battery trays are the same for both the classic and alternative mounting methods.

Approx. Time Requirement: 10-12 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits: 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 7/32
* Hacksaw with metal blade (or other method of cutting 1/8 inch aluminum)
* Drill or Dremel
* Drill or Dremel press recommended
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Wood saw
* Pop riveting tool
* Grinder (either an attachment for Dremel or bench grinder)

===Parts needed===
* Aluminum material
** Either 3/4" or 1" by 1/8" thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections, 1x 4 foot section)
** 1/4" Aluminum channel iron (1x 8 foot section, 1x 4 foot section)
* 32 5/32 thick, 1/4 inch grip pop rivets
* 32 #4 flat head self threading screws at least 1/2 inch long
* Small piece of plywood for making jig (optional, but makes things easier.)
* Small pieces of wood for making jig (optional)
* Wood screws (optional)

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 sections of the 1/4" aluminum channel iron to the exact length of the batteries (should be 7 1/16 inches.) Having the batteries actually present is important for measuring. A total of 16 of these pieces will be required for all 4 trays.
# Lay out 5 batteries and put the 1/4" aluminum channel irons between the batteries. Measure out the length and cut 2 sections of the aluminum angle irons to the length of the batteries (should be 16 5/16 inches.) A total of 8 of these sections will be required for all 4 trays. See photos below for how to layout the pack.
# Layout 5 batteries with the angle irons from above and measure the width and cut the 2 end pieces (should be 7 1/4 inches.) A total of 8 of these pieces will be required for all 4.
# Lay everything out on top of a piece of plywood and double check measurements with batteries set in the tray as shown below. It is important that the end pieces are under the pieces that run along the length of the tray.
# Screw down blocks of wood around outside of the frame as shown to hold the outside angle irons exactly where they are.
# Remove the batteries one by one and put in pieces of wood where the batteries were to hold frame and aluminum channel irons in place. This jig will hold all the pieces together while drilling.
# Using a small drill press or preferably a Dremel drill press, drill 2 3/32" holes into each corner (or probably only one if using 3/4" angle irons.)
# Once the holes are drilled, remove the top angle iron (the 16 5/16 inch one) and using a 1/8" drill bit, widen the holes so that the #4 screws can pass through them freely (only do this on the longer angle iron, not the bottom!) Then counter-sink with a 7/32" drill bit so that the screw will sit flush in the aluminum (see photo below.)
# Put in #4 self threading screws. The screws should grab into the smaller angle iron and hold the angle irons together firmly. The screws will stick out the other side.
# Using a cutoff attachment on a Dremel (or a hacksaw, but Dremel works much better), cut the screws off. Then grind them down flat using the cut off attachment on a Dremel or a bench grinder.
# Re-insert the finished angle iron frame into jig, and place channel irons in place. Drill 5/32" holes at each end.
# Using a pop-riveting tool, insert 5/32" aluminum rivets into the channel irons from the bottom and tighten.
# Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 trays.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All necessary cut aluminum pieces for 4 trays
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Tray set together with batteries
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|Tray parts laid out
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Place wood around tray frame
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in aluminum
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Finished corner with screws in
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Classic Method)==
Approx. Time Requirement:

===Overview===
The battery box supports are what the battery trays will sit on. In the classic method, aluminum angle irons are bolted onto 2 steel tubes which are bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the alternative method, skip this section and goto the next section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 2 3 foot long 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch steel tubes.
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length may be slightly long, you will probably need to adjust the length when mounting!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly. This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Cut the steel tubes to the appropriate length ('''Todo''' Get exact length)
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays for a 1/4" nut.
# Mark the locations where the aluminum angles sit on the steel tube and drill holes.
# Drill holes in the opposite side of the steel tube, big enough to fit the head of a bolt through
# Drill 2 additional holes in each steel tube in the middle of where each tray will sit. Again, drill out the other side so a nut can be fit through it. Then put a threaded 5/8" threaded rod through the hole and put a nut on each side (and a lockwasher on one side.) This will serve as the holddown for the battery box top.
# Drill 4 holes through the tube, evenly spaced over the entire length. These holes are for mounting the battery box frame to the car.
# Drill additional holes as needed to support the electronics tray
# Once holes are all drilled, coat the steel tube with anti-rust paint / spraypaint.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:P1240040.JPG|The completed battery box sitting on steel tubes (unattached)
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Top_Battery_Box_With_Corner_Bracket.JPG|During construction, shows supports without optional strip in center.
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Alternative Method)==
[[Image:Alt Mounting Diagram.png|thumb|The alternative mounting method diagram]]
Approx. Time Requirement: 4-7 hours

===Overview===
In the alternative mounting method, the battery trays sit on aluminum angle irons which either sit directly on the trunk or on rubber pads (which allow the use of battery heaters.) The battery box is supported by brackets attached to the OEM battery mouting screws and two steel angle irons bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the classic mounting method, skip this section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)
* Bench grinder

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 16 inches of steel 1 1/2 inch angle iron
* 2 joist hangers for electrical conduit
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts
* 1/4" nuts
* 1/4" or 1/8" rubber pads (optional, but required if heating pads are to be installed.)
* anti-rust paint or spraypaint

===Assembly Steps===
===The center strip===
# See the diagram to the right to see how everything assembles.
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length is too long, you will need to adjust the length when mounting, so be careful drilling holes, test fit first!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly (for strength). This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Lay out 2 aluminum angles so they form a "T" with the top of the "T" being on the floor. Optionaly insert the aluminum strip into the middle
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays in the middle for a 1/4" nut.
# Drill holes through each end of the assembly to anchor the two angles (and optionally the strip) together. The holes must be outside where the battery trays will sit (remember to leave space for a 1/4" nut (which is larger than 1/4")
# Optionally, cut rubber pads to go under each of the aluminum angles.
# Other holes will need to be drilled later when ready to mount.

===Steel Angle Iron Brackets===
# Cut 4 sections of steel angle iron about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long
# Drill a 3/8" hole in the center on one side of the angle iron.
# On the inside of the angle iron, weld (or use JB weld or another strong epoxy) a 5/8" nut on the inside so a bolt can go through the angle iron and into the nut
# Drill a 5/8" hole in the center of the other side of the angle iron
# Paint the steel with a clean metal anti-rust primer (then allow to dry)
# Spray or paint the primed steel with anti-rust paint

===Steel Supports===
# Cut 2 sections of steel angle iron about 4 inches long each
# Drill 2 5/8" holes in the bottom of the angle iron
# These will be used later for mounting into the Prius - the rest of the assembly must be done later

'''Todo''' This isn't finished - check the diagram for more details

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Alt method support angle irons.jpg|Test fitting in the Prius
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Support Steel mounted
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Shows the optional rubber pads
Image:Right_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the right side
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the left side
Image:Entire_alt_batt_box_mounting_supports.jpg|With the battery trays in
</gallery>

==Battery Box Top==
Approx. Time Requirement: 10 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits:
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade very helpful (must be capable of 45 degree angles.)
* Tablesaw with Plexiglass blade, or other method of cutting Plexiglass
* Drill
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Dremmel
* Cutoff attachment for Dremmel

===Parts Needed===
* Aluminum material
** 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
** 1 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (1x 4 foot sections for classic - 8 feet for the alternative mounting method)
* Corner brackets - can be found at Mennards in shelving hardware section
* 24x #8-32 flat head machine screws
* 16x #8-32 nuts
* 8x #8-32 x 1/4 inch binding posts
* 1/4 inch Plexiglass or (preferably) Lexan sheet, at least 33 inches by 18.5 inches.
* 4 small non-conductive nylon screw and binding posts (for holding Plexiglass "shields")

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 2 strips of Plexiglass (or Lexan) 32.5 inches by 1.5 inches. These peices will act as a sheild between the battery terminals and the aluminum (to prevent shorts.)
# Cut opposing 45 degree angle at the end of 2 of the 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron peices to form one of the corners.
# Layout the four trays in the frame angle irons (important for getting correct measurements.)
# Place 4 batteries in the trays, one in each corner (see photo.)
# Place electrical tape over the terminals on the batteries to help prevent any arcs.
# Make sure to leave space for the middle bolt down and bolts for the frame. (The battery box base isn't finished yet and requires space in the middle.)
# Set one of the cut angle irons on top of the batteries (be sure not to arc the batteries!) Place the Plexiglass "Shield" in place and use clamps to it there. This allows for accurate measurements.
# Lay the other angle iron with the opposing 45 degree angle out and measure the width & cut with a 45 degree angle (end peice should be about 15 3/8 inches wide.)
# Hold the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top to the end of the battery pack (use clamps to hold it on.) For the classic mounting method, this is only required on the left and right sides. For the alternative mouting method, the angles should go around the entire battery box top.
# Holding the angle irons and bolt down angle iron right where they should be, set the corner bracket on the corner and make sure that it covers the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the battery box.
# Mark where the holes on the top of the bracket are on the angle iron (or drill holes if necessary.)
# Using the Dremmel cutoff tool, cut down the binding post so that it does not stick all the way thought the bracket if set on top (see picture.)
# Drill a hole in the angle iron and countersink it so that the #8 flat top machine screw fits flush. Put screw in and repeate for the other angle iron.
# Repeate for other sides cutting the angle irons to the right lengths. The length of the angle iron on the side of the battery box should be 34 inches.
# To strengthen the structure of the top, drill holes in from the sides, countersink from the inside and bolt using #8 flat head screws and nuts (bolting the top down is important, remember that the top must hold weight if the car goes over large bumps or is involved in an accident or rollover.)
# Using a drill press or drill, drill through the Plexiglass on the side and the aluminum angle irons near the edges. Countersink the hole in the Plexiglass and insert non-conductive nylon screws and binding posts to hold Plexiglass in place.
# Using the Dremmel with cutoff attachment, grind off the bolts that are sticking out.
# Cut the Plexiglass sheet to the correct length and width to fit snuggly into the top of the battery box.
# Holes need to be drilled into the bolt down angle irons on each side, but I don't have those measurements and it depends how it is bolted down. Holes also need to be drilled in the middle on each aluminum angle iron to clamp down the top to the bottom of the battery box for extra strength.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
</gallery>

===Tips===
* If you are buying a new metal cutoff blade for an existing chopsaw, make sure to get one that is large enough to actually cut all the way through the metal with your specific chopsaw.
* Aluminum blades with small teeth do not seem to work well for cutting through 1/8 aluminum angle irons! They grab and tend to throw the saw and are almost impossible to control. Don't attempt an aluminum cutting blade with teeth on a radial saw!
* A hacksaw can work in place of the metal cutoff blade, however it is much more difficult to get straight cuts, even with a metal guide for the hacksaw.
* A jig saw seems to work well for cutting the aluminum angle irons

==Control Board==

There are presently 2 control board options. The Interim control board (also known as the Basic control board) and the CAN control board (still in the early stages, but available)

The Interim control board (a.k.a. basic control board) is used to drive contactors from CAN-View. With this setup, CAN-View is required and is the controlling computer, the Interim control board interprets the signals from CAN-View and drives the contactors. So if you have CAN-View, and you want to use it to control the conversion, this is the board you need. If you go the CAN control board route, neither of these are used. The Interim board costs around $14.50 for the board itself, and roughly $25 for components (or $65 pre-assembled.) The Interim board is available here: [http://www.uninterruptiblesolutions.com/ev-components-c-30.html]. The DigiKey Quick order parts list for the Interim board is here: [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1016141].

The CAN control board talks directly with the car over the CAN bus and also contains the circuitry to drive the contactors, so the board takes over what CAN-View used to be used for as well as takes over what the Interim control board does, so neither CAN-View nor the Interim control board are used in this setup. The CAN control board can do everything the CAN-View + Interim control board setup can do plus more (SOC spoofing, sense if the car is still plugged in when you stat it up, etc.) The CAN control board's software is open source and can easily be updated / customized with knowledge of C programming language and a PIC programmer.

In either case, however, CAN-View or ScanGuage are very valuable for telling what is going on behind the scenes of the car and making sure that everything is working properly and highly recommended.

==LED Board==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|LED Board, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
Approx. time requirement: 2 hours

===Tools Needed===
* Soldering Iron
* Solder

===Parts Needed===
See the [[PriusPlus-PartsList]] page for the parts list.

'''Todo''' The schematics need to be updated to match new schematics.

==Electronic/Electric Sub Part Construction==
===Diode===
The diode must be firmly and correctly mounted to the heatsink. The diode has a 1/4" stud which passes through the heatsink but does not touch the heatsink. A shoulder or insulating nylon tube must be placed over the stud where the diode passes through the heatsink. This is important so the diode does not electrically make contact with the heatsink. Additionally, 2 electrically insulating, but thermally conductive pads (or mica) must be used on both sides of the heatsink to prevent the diode from making contact on either side of the heatsink. See photos below for how to mount the diode:

====Photos====
<gallery>
Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
</gallery>

===Snubbers===
Solder together one lead of the .47uF, 500V capacitor and one lead of the 22 ohm 1 watt resistor. Put heat shrink tubing around the other 2 leads and crimp on ring terminals and solder the crimps to the leads for a better connection. The snubbers are then placed across the two contactors.

===Low Voltage Interconnects===
A list of helpful Molex connector tools on DigiKey can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014151 here].

'''Todo'''

==Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
[[Image:Electronics Tray Classic.png|thumb|Electronics Tray diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help''' Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut the bottom, back, sides. Cut holes in the fans on the sides, and use small shelving brackets to secure the pieces together. Attach electronic components with screws. Plexiglass top.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:P10380.JPG|The electronics tray
</gallery>

==Electronics Box (Alternative)==
[[Image:Electronics Box Alternative.png|thumb|Electronics Box diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help'''. Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut a bottom, sides, back, front, middle divider, fan divider, and rear top. The front top is 1/4" plexiglass for easy viewing (or more ABS if preferred.) The fan divider is designed to be easily retractable for easy replacement without removing the battery box. Mount the fuse holders with 2 screws in the middle, the contactors, power supply, relays, etc. Preferably use very short self tapping screws that don't go through the plastic to provide electrical isolation from the rest of the car (optional.) It may be useful to use a Dremmel with a small drill bit to star the hole, use the self tapping screw to start the thread and then use a cutoff small screw. Otherwise, countersink a flat head screw on the outside of the box and use nuts and lock washers on the inside.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics Box Assembly - Side Vents.jpg|Starting with the materials
Image:Electronics_box_being_assembled.jpg|The electronics box taped together
Image:Electronics Box Assembly Mounting Components.jpg|Components being mounted
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_1.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_2.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:HVD1_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the diode
Image:Left_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Left outside of electronics box
Image:Right_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Right outside of the electronics box
Image:Contactors_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted contactors
Image:Fuses_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted fuses
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well_2.jpg|The electronics box with the HV section's cover resting on top
</gallery>

==Installation Into the Prius==
Now that the sub components are built, it is time to start installing things into the Prius. The following sections will each attempt to leave the Prius in a drivable state after the section is completed.

=Disassembling the Prius=
==Remove user-removable parts==
'''Todo''' This needs to be finished
Remove the false floor, the central storage bin, side storage bin and spare tire.

==Battery Carpet & Seat Removal==
{| align=right
| [[Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|thumb|These bolts must be taken out]]
|| [[Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|thumb|Shows the carpeting being removed from the OEM battery]]
|| [[Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|thumb|right|Removing the bolts for the rear seats]]
|}
Remove the two bolts holding down the carpeting over the OEM battery. Be sure to keep them in a plastic bag so they do not get lost. Then lift up on the Velcro attaching to the rear seats. Then, simply pull straight up on the carpeting assembly. It will snap out and expose the top of the OEM battery. There are 2 carpeting clips that must be removed to fully remove the cover from the OEM battery.

With the OEM battery carpeting removed (or the Velcro simply pulled up), remove the two bolts holding in the seat. The seat back then comes out giving access to the front side of the OEM battery (needed for the OEM tie-in.)

==Side panel Removal==
Both of the carpeted side panels in the rear of the Prius must be removed. The driver's side panel must be removed to access the OEM battery for tie-in, and the passenger's side must be removed to access the OEM battery fan to add the override wiring.
# Remove the screen from the trunk (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the cover from the driver's side storage cubby hole (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the black strip in the very rear of the trunk (where the latch is for the trunk) by simply lifting straight up (it will pop out.)
# Remove the arm rest sections on the outside of the seats ('''Todo - add photos''')
# Remove the 10mm bolt inside the screen holder using a ratchet with an extension
# Remove the 10mm bolt in the back of the side panel in the section which holds the screen if were deployed. This can be done with a 10mm ratchet or a screwdriver.
# Pull straight out on the entire assembly.
# On the drivers side, there is a wire which connects to the trunk lamp which needs to be disconnected.
# Repeat instructions for the passenger's side.

==Routing CAN-View cables to trunk==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be improved.

Take off the kick panels on either the driver's side or passenger's side, insert CAN-View cable, ribbon cable (for LED board) and EV mode cable (1 wire) and route into trunk.

==Air Vents (Classic Method)==
Remove spare tire and the two black drain plugs that sit in the tire well. You may have to use a dremmel to open the hole so you can drop in the [Delete later-(Ron I think I found a piece of conduit that will flush mount in here. The PVC pipe can be glued to it. I’ll get you a part number and picture. By doing this a project could be prepped weeks in advance and the spare will still fit in there until the final conversion days.) ] 2” PVC threaded coupling. Next connect the 2” 90 deg. Elbow and then a length of 2” PVC pipe per this photo (add photo showing underside of car with both pipes pointing back to the rear.)

==Installing the Outlet Box (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''Please help us finish this section! Write chris at infolaunch.com to help and for the 120 volt wiring schematics that need to be posted here.'''

Take a standard plastic wall 4 gang outlet box, route a 12/3 cable into the box (with strain relief), and wire one duplex (2 individual outlets) directly to the incoming power. Then wire one outlet of the other duplex through one relay, and the other through the second relay (such that the outlets are on only when the relays are on.) The 2 individual outlets controlled by relays are designed for heating pads for the OEM battery and the PHEV battery pack. The other 2, always on when plugged in outlets are designed to power the charger and the power supply.

==Install Charger / Electronics Box (Alternative Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded.

'''Todo''' Add relevant photos from RawData page

Take a sheet of zinc coated steel and cut it out so that it fits neatly in the bottom of the tire well. Drill a hole in the center where the spare tire screw goes (used to hold the sheet in place.) Then, place the charger in the back, behind the center hole. It may be necessary to use pipe or washers to offset the charger from the steel sheet an inch or so to get it to fit (depends on charger used.) Drill holes through the steel sheet and mount charger to it. Then, put a thin carpet or sturdy insulation on the underside of the steel sheet to prevent rattling while driving. It may be necessary to use a 3/4" small block of wood with a hole through the middle to offset the center of the steel where the screw goes into the tire well mount to keep the steel from bending / rattling while driving. The screw is metric. Then, using several strips of extra strength velcro, velcro the bottom of the electronics box to the steel sheet.

==Install Batt. Box Foundation / Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
Line up the battery box support steel tubes where they should go and drill holes into the trunk floor. It may be necessary to remove part or all of the heat shielding from the muffler on the underside of the car to find the holes. Bolt down.

('''Todo''' Need to detail removing the heat shield on the underside of the car.)
To remove the plastic shield on the driver's side rear of the car, use a flat screw driver to pop out the 3 fasteners. On the back of the shield there is a 10mm bolt holding the plastic shield in place which also needs to be removed.

==Install Battery Box Foundation (Alternative Method)==
[[Image:Alt Mounting Diagram.png|thumb|The alternative mounting method diagram]]

'''Todo''' This needs to be better documented

Remove the two bolts holding down the OEM battery in that stick out into the tire well. Mount the modified I beam brackets so that the back with the screw hole is facing directly towards the back of the car. Drill a hole in the rear support aluminum angle iron to match with those screw holes, countersink a flat screw into that. (see diagram and photos for details on how everything goes together.) On the driver's side, drill a hole through the aluminum for the post on the SKS sensor. The middle section just sits on the steel floor, though bolts into the Prius body may be a good idea. (its held in primarily by the battery box top, but extra strength in the event of a crash would be good.) The rear piece needs to have holes drilled in the Prius steel floor and the steel angle irons (see diagram) bolted to either the steel floor or to the frame member below them off to the side a bit. If bolting to the steel floor, a steel strip on the opposite side should be used, and at least 2 bolts should be used for added strength.

==OEM Battery Fan Control Tap==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|Fan Control, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
'''Todo''' Upload new version of schematic

Taps must be added to force the OEM fan on at lower temperatures so the car can remain in EV mode.

The tapping is done at the OEM battery fan. You reach it by taking the right rear inner body panel off (instructions in the Toyota service manual), reaching up inside the ducting, above the right rear wheelwell, and unplugging the power plug to the fan. The plug is not visible; you must unplug it (and plug it in again) by feel. The plug has two light green wires attached to one pin, and two violet wires attached to the other.

Use #18 or larger wires for all of the following. All three wires are run down to the control board, then the OEM battery plug is plugged back into the fan.

Alternative 1: Attach a green wire to one or both of the light green wires, e.g. via a red clip-on wire splice (make sure it makes solid contact). Then cut both of the violet wires about 2" from the OEM battery fan plug. Splice a violet wire onto both of the violet wires that were cut off, and a black wire to one or both of the violet wires still attached to the plug. Splice all three (1N5402, 1N5403, or 1N5404) 3A diodes in parallel as shown, between the violet and black wires near the fan plug, with the cathode (the end with the band) connected to the violet wire. For proper heat dissipation, make sure that the leads and all connections are well insulated, that the body of each diode is open to air flow, and that the diodes are not pressed against each other, and that the whole assembly, when the plug is plugged in, is solidly suspended in mid-air. Three 3A diodes are used in parallel for a maximum of 5A because heat dissipation may be compromised even when installed as above. The other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

<gallery>
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

Alternative 2 (does not cut Prius wires, but is expensive): Buy two each of the following Toyota replacement OEM battery plug and mating pins:
OEM battery fan plug pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12380
OEM battery fan plug mating pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12370
Splice one plug pin, a mating pin, and a green wire together. Splice a black wire to a plug pin, and a violet wire to a mating pin. Splice the three 1N5402 diodes between the violet and black wires as described above. Now remove the pin with the light green wires from the OEM battery fan plug, connect it to the mating pin with the green wire attached, and secure with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the green wire into the OEM battery fan plug. Next, remove the pin with the violet wires from the OEM battery plug and connect it to the mating pin with the violet wire attached, again securing it with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the black wire into the OEM battery fan plug. The pins are removed one at a time so that there is no possibility of getting them reversed when inserting the new pins. As above, the other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

The pins can be removed from the OEM battery fan plug by inserting a tiny screwdriver from the back to push the plastic catch aside while pulling on the wire attached to the pin.

==Safety Warning & Tips==
Batteries can be dangerous and can cause serious injury or death and should only be worked on by persons qualified to do so. Both energy hazards from arcs (shorts) and electrical shock can cause serious injury or be fatal with a battery pack of this size. Battery packs are always live and cannot be shut off! The following are safety tips to help prevent arcs and shocks, but they are only tips and should not be taken as a go-ahead to perform work on battery packs. Extreme caution must be taken as it is very easy to accidentally set something on the battery without thinking or drop something and cause a shock or arc. Hire a qualified electrician to help for this part if there is any doubt.

* Remove all jewelry, especially gold, before working with batteries.
* Do not allow metal to come into contact with the batteries that could cause an arc (best practice is to not allow any metal near the battery at all.
* Use only fully insulated tools around batteries, especially in tight spaces (available in the electrical department in most hardware stores.)
* When wiring batteries, be sure the other end of the wire will not accidentally come into contact with any other part of the battery or metal frames. Taping or otherwise protecting the ends of wires is recommended.
* Wear rated rubber electricians gloves and outer protective gloves. Electricians gloves are not fail-proof and every effort should be made to only touch insulated tools even when wearing gloves.
* If electrician gloves aren't used, only one hand should be used so that a shock will not pass current through the heart.
* Always wear gloves when working on batteries (preferably rubber.)
* Install the jumpers in 48 volt sections and then connect those smaller sections together at the very end. This way voltages higher than 48 volts are only handled when installing 4 jumpers instead of 16.
* Even though the batteries are sealed, it is still possible for them to leak and splatter acid, especially if they are just charged, heated or an arc occurs. If a leak occurs, use baking soda to neutralize the acid and properly dispose. Eye protection is a good idea.
* Orient batteries in the tray to avoid terminal contact with any bolts or any metal pieces.

==Tapping into OEM Battery==
{{Disclaimer}}

This step '''MUST''' be performed by someone qualified to work on high voltage systems. Rated rubber electricians gloves should be used for working on the inside of the battery. Please fully read the Safety section before before attempting anything. Lethal voltages are present. Hire a qualified professional for this portion.

'''Todo: This section is not finished'''

Tools needed
* Voltmeter (capable of at least 300 volts DC)
* Ratchet

Parts needed
* 3 #6 AWG ring terminal crimps (an extra is good)
* 2 #8 AWG ring terminal crimps (extras are good)
* small 1 foot section of 6 AWG wire (with insulation rated 600v or higher, preferably THHN)
* non-conductive rubber cap
* electrical tape
* several feet of #8 AWG wire with insulation rated 600v or higher
* optional: 3/8" flex tubing
* optional: other flexible conduit

# Before attempting to open the OEM battery, the orange service disconnect '''MUST''' be fully removed from the OEM battery. To do this, lift up on the orange ring. Once it pops up, push the top part out, away from the battery. This will remove the service disconnect from the battery. Do not re-install the service disconnect until the OEM battery has been closed up. '''BE AWARE, THERE ARE STILL HIGH, LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE THE BATTERY EVEN THOUGH THE DISCONNECT HAS BEEN REMOVED!'''
# Take off the support holding the OEM battery in place. The bolts are found on the driver's side wheel well, on the OEM battery and behind the driver's side rear seat top (the seat top must be removed, see above for information on removing the seat back.)
# Carefully remove the bolts holding the cover on the driver's side of the OEM battery. The 2 bolts will need to be removed from where the orange cables come out of the battery to remove the cover. '''DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE'''
# Once opened, just beyond where the two orange wires enter the OEM battery there are 2 contactors with 2 white plastic shields on top. '''NEVER TOUCH THE TWO TERMINALS AT THE SAME TIME''' Using rated, insulated electrician's rubber gloves remove one of the white plastic pieces by lifting straight up. Using a voltmeter, test the DC voltage between the contactor terminal and ground. If voltage is present (often > 100 volts DC) keep the multimeter on the terminal until the voltage decreases to below 1 volt. '''After''' that has been done on one, remove the other white plastic piece and repeat for the other side. Then check the voltage between all of the contactor terminals (all 4) to ensure they are zero. '''This step must be repeated any time the orange service plug has been inserted into the battery to ensure safety.
# Disconnect the negative wire coming from the OEM battery from the contactor. It is the one fed through the hall effect sensor (see photo.) The wire must be removed from the hall effect sensor.
# Take the piece of 6AWG wire with a 6AWG ring connector firmly attached at both ends and feed it through the hall effect sensor and connect it to the contactor where you just removed the OEM negative battery wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Feed in the new #8 AWG wire from the electronics tray through the opening where the 2 orange wires come through. Attach a #8 AWG ring connector to the wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Bolt the #6 wire from the negative contactor, the negative wire from the OEM battery and the negative #8 AWG (black) wire from the electronics tray together as shown using a lockwasher (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Then wrap tightly with electrical tape (preferably orange), so that the entire assembly is covered with several layers of tape.
# Place a rubber cap on the top and wrap the rubber assembly in tape and attach firmly to the rest of the wire.
# Next, crimp on a #8 AWG ring terminal to the #8 Red wire coming from the electronics tray.
# Remove the bolt on the positive contactor's terminal and add the #8 AWG wire as shown (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Replace the white insulators that came off the top of the contactors
# Route the wire in the same way as the black wire out area where the 2 orange wires run
# Make sure there is a little slack wire inside the OEM battery. Then, optionally wrap the 3/8" flex tubing around the 2 new wires to the electronics tray and wrap them in orange electrical tape (orange is keeping in standard for high voltage wiring in hybrids.)
# '''Before reconnecting anything, be absolutely sure that the other end of the high voltage wires are fully insulated (i.e., make sure the Anderson PP75 connectors are on and that there is electrical tape preventing them from accidentally contacting any metal.'''
# Tap a yellow #22 or larger wire onto the yellow low voltage wire going to one of the contactors and route to the electronics tray or box.
'''Todo''' Add a photo of the yellow READY wire.

<gallery>
Image:OEM_battery_exposed.jpg|The OEM battery with the support bracket removed
Image:Opening_OEM_battery.jpg|Removing the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_after_tie_in.jpg|After the OEM battery tie in is done
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_from_back_of_car.jpg|Shows the 2 white insulators on the contactors
</gallery>

==Tap into the 12v Accessory Battery==
Run 4 18 AWG wires (2 red, 2 black) from the electronics tray or box to the 12 volt accessory battery (located under the passenger side cubby hole. The 2 red wires should run into a 15 amp 32volt automotive fuse. The other side of the fuse should go to the 12v accessory battery. The black wire should either goto the black terminal on the battery or the chassis (but it must be a very clean connection to the chassis.) The other side of the wires goes to the control board through a .156" Molex KK connector.

==Reassemble the Prius Trunk==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written

==Connecting the PbA batteries==
'''Todo''' Much work needed yet

===Parts Needed===
* Qty 50 8 AWG crimp on ring terminals (probably wise to get a few extra!)
* 8 AWG wire (list total length used here.)
* Orange electrical tape
* 20x BB Battery EVP20-12B 12volt 20ah SLA AGM batteries (2 spares recommended.)

===Assembly Steps===
{{Disclaimer}}

'''Warning: Get an electrician or qualified person to do this, this is working with high voltages which can be lethal or start fires if not taken seriously.'''

Place trays in the foundation and the batteries in trays (look at photos on RawData page to see sequence.) Using crimp on ring terminals, make lengths of wire long enough to connect batteries and crimp the ring terminals on well. Make sure the crimps are very tight and make good contact. This is very important because they could otherwise heat up extremely hot and melt or start a fire. The batteries are arranged electrically into 4 60v sections. The front section and rear section are separated by one of the 60 amp 300v fuses (see HV schematics.) Each other section is separated by Anderson PP75 connectors for easy disconnect. Sections should be assembled individually to prevent voltages from being more than 60 volts until everything is ready to be connected and assembled. Leave the fuses disconnected until everything is finished. Then put on the battery box top and bolt it down.

==Optional Bumper Mounted Inlet==
This is an optional replacement for the mounted cord reel. There may be other inlets available, but a Marinco 150CCI works well and costs about $25-$30.

# Remove the plastic shield on the driver's side of the car if it hasn't been already (see above for instructions.)
# Using a circular drill bit with starting drill bit, drill a 1 7/8" hole in the bumper where you want the inlet to be mounted.
# Route the cable to the inlet before installing the inlet.
# Fasten the inlet to the bumper

==Optional Mounted Cord Reel (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written by someone who knows how to do this.

==The First Tests==
'''Todo''' This needs much more work

First, using a voltmeter check to make sure that voltages are present both from the OEM battery (should be 220v or so) and from the PHEV pack (should be around 260v.) Plug the car into a ground faulted (preferably also arc faulted) outlet and check to see if the car starts to charge the PHEV battery.

Power up the car very briefly and check to see if the control board turns on. With CAN-View in ORIG mode (not PHEV), make sure that HVRL1 and HVRL2 are both off. Some LEDs should be on on the LED board.

==Programming CAN-View/Control Board==

'''Todo''' Polish this description and format nicely like Ryan's PiPrius ones.

Set the dip switches on the control board:
DIPSW1: 1=OFF, 2=OFF, 3=ON, 4=ON, 5=ON [ HVRL1 = RL3 OR RL5 OR RL6 ] (RL2 will be reserved to force the OEM battery fan ON)
DIPSW1: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control the optional current-limiting power resistor)
DIPSW2: 1-5=OFF (later, 2=ON will force the OEM battery fan ON when RL2 is ON)
DIPSW2: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control a "Future use #1" output)

RL2 [settings don't yet matter]

For highway driving:
RL3 ON < 71 OFF > 73 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON 25 OFF < 30 Acl (Amps DCL)
ON > 45 OFF < 40 MPH
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
3 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

To stay in EV mode during acceleration:
RL5 ON < 200 OFF > 235V
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? YES

For low speeds, to promote EV mode driving:
RL6 ON < 61 OFF > 63 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

{{Disclaimer}}

[[Category:PHEV]]
[[Category:Prius]]
[[Category:PriusPlus]]
[[Category:CalCars]]

Prius EV Mode Button

2008-01-19T14:17:02Z

Cewert: /* How the EV modes work */ updated with new observations

{{TOCright}}

'''Enabling the EV Mode Button, The secret missing feature.'''

The EV Mode Button is a standard part of the Japan and EU Prius but was not installed in the US versions, perhaps because of extended [[Warranty|warranties]] in Ca due to AT-PZEV regulations and qualifications criteria. The US Prius is still entirely aware of the EV Mode though it can never get the signal or command to enter or exit the mode because the wire and button are missing. EV Mode is a very ''enlightening'' feature as it ''encourages'' the Prius to stay in its electric mode for far longer than it normally would.
It will normally drive 1 to 2 miles on a fully charged battery, after which it must restart the engine using gasoline to recharge the battery.
It is not a good idea to fully cycle the battery often as this decreases any battery's life and is not helpful for mileage if used improperly. If used correctly is can be advantageous for times when you know you won't need to start the engine. It's also fun for showing off and offers a small glimpse of the potential of electric vehicles.

The EV Mode function itself is activated and deactivated by momentarily grounding the H14 #27 pin on the HV ECU located behind the glove box(s). [http://www.coastaletech.com/electric_only_mode.htm CoastalTech.com] (ph) has a 3-wire EV Mode Button kit with easy instructions which allows you to turn on and off the EV Mode through the Cruise control stalk.
[http://www.calcars.org/prius-evbutton-install.pdf prius-evbutton-install.pdf] <ref>[[Media:Prius-evbutton-install.pdf]] from http://www.calcars.org/prius-evbutton-install.pdf</ref>from [http://www.calcars.org calcars.org] and [http://www.vfaq.net/mods/EV-button-Y.html EV-button-Y.html] from [http://www.vfaq.net vfaq.net] have more information for "do it yourself" type people.
This [http://www.scubadivervideo.com/Files/factoryEV.pdf factoryEV.pdf] <ref>[[Media:FactoryEV.pdf]] from http://www.scubadivervideo.com/Files/factoryEV.pdf</ref> by ScubaX at [http://priuschat.com/Factory-EV-Switch-Install-t11338.html PriusChat] talks about the OEM EV-Mode button and dimmer switchs white/black wire which is ground(-) and the grey wire which is illumination control, there doesn't appear to be any OEM EV-Mode status indication.
The recirculation button on the steering pad might also make a good EV Mode button but it's not a simple switch and is instead a variable resistance control connected to the climate control system.
You can also take a look at the [[PiPrius conversion process#CAN-View_Version3]] page which discusses one particular PHEV conversion but includes some steps regarding the EV Mode button installation.

==How the EV modes work==
* This maillist [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/eaa-phev/message/1155 Y!]ahoo post describes in more detail what to expect from various EV modes in the Prius.
* [[Hybrids-Plus]] also has a good [http://hybrids-plus.com/pdf/EV_Mode_in_PHEVs.pdf EV_Mode_in_PHEVs.pdf] document.

'''Things that cancel or prevent EV Mode use:'''
* Pushing the EV-Mode button cycles into and out of EV-Mode, if allowed.
* On cold days, heat and defrost will both prevent EV mode if the engine is not warm enough (usually > 150F)
* The battery voltage must remain above 180v.
* The [[CCL]] (Charge Current Limit) must remain above 55A.
* The battery must remain above 45% SOC (2 out of 8 bars).
** The battery must be above 50% SOC (3 out of 8 bars) to engage EV mode.
** The battery must remain below 80% SOC (8 out of 8 bars).
* The traction battery must remain below 120°F
** The traction battery must be below 113°F to engage EV mode.
** (low traction battery temperatures below 40°F will likely result in a [[CCL]] which will prevent EV mode, but a low battery temperature itself will not cancel EV mode.)
* The gas engine (ICE) must be above 32°F (0°C) to engage EV mode.
* The speed must remain below 34mph (55 kph).
* The accelerator pedal must not be depressed more than about half to 3/4 of the way down (<=120 out of 255, corresponds to approx. 120A or 24kW).
** Other EV modes such as "Stealth" (up to 42mph) and "Warp-Stealth"/"ICE Spin" (above 42mph with the ICE at ~950 RPMs) regularly occur when there is ample battery energy and low power demand without the use of the EV-Mode Button.

'''Other Notes:'''
* The ICE will start 7 seconds after vehicle startup unless EV-only mode is entered during that time.
** Once the ICE starts the first time during a trip, it will not stop or allow EV-Mode until the catalytic converter has warmed up. During this time, the car is in an EV dominate mode, where the car prefers to use the electric motor instead of the ICE to allow the ICE to slowly warm up.
** Once the catalytic converter has warmed up, in cold weather, the ICE will continue to warm to about 100°F. During this time, while the car will not go into stealth mode, even if stopped, EV mode is available as long as heaters are off.
* The A/C compressor is electric, and the A/C will work while in EV-only mode.
* When the EV-only mode is entered, the hybrid model screen will show. A beep will be heard only if that screen wasn't already showing.
* Three beeps are heard whenever EV-only mode is requested but not allowed, and when it is auto canceled.
* One must wait around five seconds before a new EV-only request is acknowledged.

'''Things you need to add the feature.'''
* 22 gage wire, about 6 feet.
* Standard Phillips screwdriver.
* Small Jeweler's screwdriver.
* Soldering may be required.
* 1/2 to 3 hours of time.
* optional components:
** momentary switch, extra batteries, drop cord?

==Parallel Packs==

I'm aware of a few other people who have added additional battery capacity to Prii, although they did not grid-recharge, those projects are rather close to becoming [[PHEV]] projects.
*[http://privatenrg.com Wayne Brown] ( ev-button ''discovery'', extra batteries, no plug-in ) [[Image:04 HV & PbAcidParallelTie2.jpg|thumb|100px|right|HV tie-in]]
**Much thanks to Wayne for discovering and then sharing his discovery of how to install the ev-button at [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/message/38329 Yahoo] in Feb of 2004. He also shared with us some interesting [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/message/36429 technical info] regarding the effects of the ev-mode, "136 Amps (136 Amps X 202 VDC = 27.4 KW = 36.7 Horsepower)" vs "45-50 Amps (10 kW or 13 Horsepower)" in stealth mode (non ev-button electric mode). Wayne was doing a lot of work with [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/message/35978 additional battery capacity tie-ins]. He [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/message/35023 wraps it up] here, [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/message/25039 Button Part Number], [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/message/34813 31% gain], [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/message/34613 re-enable confirmation], [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/message/34622 more details], [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/message/34818 BMS details], [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/message/34725 some speculation], [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2004-prius/message/29437 7.5ah aux battery].

* Steve Woodruff aka " the prius parts guy" has also experimented with a second OEM battery, see http://www.autobeyours.com/PHEV.htm

==EV-Mode and your Warranty==
Regarding your warranty
* 2007.07.19 - PriusChat.com - [http://priuschat.com/index.php?showtopic=36277 My Prius needs a battery, Toyota denies warranty due to EV button, Stuck with a $4500.00 bill - until today]
** 2007.08.08 - PriusChat.com - [http://priuschat.com/index.php?showtopic=37120 When do you use the EV button?, What real benefit do you find in it?]
* 2005.09.26 - Yahoo PriusPlus - [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/priusplus/message/495 Federal law re. vehicle warranties and crash testing]
** http://www.sema.org/main/semaorghome.aspx?ID=50096 '''The Law'''
** Federal law sets forth requirements for warranties and contains a number of provisions to prevent vehicle manufacturers, dealers and others from unjustly denying warranty coverage. With regard to aftermarket parts, the spirit of the law is that warranty coverage cannot be denied simply because such parts are present on the vehicle, or have been used(see [http://www.sema.org/Main/SemaOrgHome.aspx?ID=50100 Attachment A]).The warranty coverage can be denied only if the aftermarket part caused the malfunction or damage for which warranty coverage is sought. Disputes in this area usually boil down to arguments over facts and technical opinions, rather than arguments over interpretations of the law.

==References==

<references/>

[[Category:Prius]]

Prius PHEV TechInfo

2008-01-02T21:02:47Z

Cewert: /* CAN bus */ the stock ECU has a split-terminator and common mode choke

File:Control Specs.zip

2007-10-04T13:01:01Z

Cewert:

PriusPlus-RawData

2007-09-28T19:58:01Z

Cewert: hinged battery box designs from 2007 Maker Faire conversion

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----

This page houses all raw reference materials and other data which have been uploaded to incorporate into documentation on the other pages.

==Schematics==
These are preview images of various schematics, click on the thumbnails for a larger preview and to download the full sized images. You will also find links to .zips of the original [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] schematics from which these images were produced.

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png|thumb|left|400px|Preview of High Power Schematics]]

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|left|400px|Preview of Control Board Schematics [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip|EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].]]

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|thumb|left|400px|Preview of LED Board Schematics [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip|EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].]]
{{Clear}}

===Battery Box Designs===
See the following for designs for a hinged battery box:

[[Image:076610.1004-PP2-1.PDF]]
[[Image:076610.2039-pp2.pdf]]
[[Image:076610.2040-PP2.pdf]]
[[Image:076610.2041-PP2.pdf]]
[[Image:076610.2042-pp2.pdf]]

===Photos===
You can browse the [http://www.eaa-phev.org/index.php?title=Special:Newimages entire gallery] of images here at the eaa-phev site, 
or visit some other galleries with potentially applicable photos:
* [[2007_Maker_Faire#Photos]]
* Inaugural [[Maker_Faire_Photos]]
* [[PiPrius#Photos]]
** [[WhiteBird#Photos]]
** [[GrayPearl#Photos]]

{|
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1183.JPG|thumb|Photo of OEM NiMH battery with case fully removed during [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], which is no longer necessary during current conversions.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1176.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in at the time of the [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], routed out of OEM battery case near service plug.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1442.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in later after [[PiPrius]] conversion, there is an additional unused wire on the neg(-) OEM contactor for use during "Genset mode"]]
|}

====Rons Images====
* Build Team [[:Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg]]
<gallery>
Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg|Build Team Photo with labels
Image:P10370.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10371.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10372.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.

Image:P10363.JPG|The unmodified trunk area.
Image:P10364.JPG|Pair of PVC air vents installed in spare tire well.
Image:P10365.JPG|Mockup of the Electronics housing for wiring and circuit boards.
Image:P10373.JPG|The empty new battery box.

Image:P10374.JPG|Electronics housing and misc parts on top of new battery box, ready for installation.
Image:P10382.JPG|Electronics housing and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10389.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10385.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.

Image:P10386.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10387.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10393.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.
Image:P10394.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.

Image:P10380.JPG|Electronics housing (front).
Image:P10379.JPG|Electronics housing (bottom).
Image:P10377.JPG|Electronics housing (back).
Image:P10376.JPG|Electronics housing (top).

Image:P10366.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10367.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10368.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10369.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.

Image:P10381.JPG|Working on Circuit boards.
Image:P10383.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10384.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10403.JPG|Electronics housing cooling fan flaps.

Image:P10390.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10391.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10395.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10396.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.

Image:P10397.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10398.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10400.JPG|110v breakout quad and 110 to 12v power supply.
Image:P10402.JPG|Ah Meter.

Image:P10405.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10406.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10407.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10408.JPG|Old Electronics Board.

Image:P10404.JPG|Inside corner of battery box top.
Image:P10409.JPG|[[CAN-View]] screen.
</gallery>

====Photos from Chris Ewert's Conversion====
These are photos that [[User:Cewert]] has shared with us of his conversion via the CalCars [[PriusPlus]] method.
<gallery>
Image:Cutting Aluminum.JPG|Cutting the aluminum with a hacksaw
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All the pieces necessary for the battery trays
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|All the parts from the tray laid out
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Set Together Close Up.JPG|Close up of the battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Ready for Jig.JPG|Tray set together, ready for creating "jig"
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Starting to assemble the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|More assembling the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Getting the jig assembled
Image:Almost Finished Tray Jig.JPG|Mostly finished tray jig
Image:Dremel Drill Press.JPG|Dremel drill press used for drilling holes in angle irons
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in the aluminum, then countersunk
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Sample corner finished (done on scrap aluminum)
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
Image:2 Trays with Some Supports.JPG|Experimenting with the support angle irons
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
Image:Fuses and Holders.JPG|Fuses and holders
Image:Fuse in holder.JPG|A fuse in it's holder
Image:Bottom of JTN60060.JPG|Bottom of the fuse holder (for DIN rail mounting)
Image:EV200 Contactor.JPG|The Kilovac EV200 contactor
Image:P1240040.JPG|Battery Box sitting on steel tube
Image:Batt_Box_with_screw_lift_supports.JPG|Battery box sitting on steel tube with second tube for screw lift support
Image:Bracket_on_OEM_Batt_screw.JPG|Alt mounting method: modified hanger bolted into battery box mount
Image:Batt_box_test_fit_forward_design.JPG|Alt mounting method: Test fit of unfinished battery box top in forward location
Image:Charger_in_tirewell.JPG|Charger in tirewell
Image:Welded_angle_iron_1.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Alt_method_support_angle_irons.jpg|Support angle irons
Image:Right_side _battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Right side battery box supports
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Left side battery box supports
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Rubber pad under support angle irons
Image:Entire alt batt box mounting supports.jpg|Entire battery box mounting supports
Image:Electronics box being assembled.jpg|Electronics box being assembled
Image:Electronics Box Partial 1.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box Partial 2.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well.jpg|Installed electronics box and charger
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well 2.jpg|Installed electronics box with top on
Image:HVD1 in electronics box.jpg|Close up of HVD1 installed
Image:Contactors in electronics box.jpg|Close up of contactors installed
Image:Left side of electronics box.jpg|Left side of electronics box
Image:Right side of electronics box.jpg|Right side of electronics box
Image:Fuses in electronics box.jpg|Close up of fuses in electronics box
Image:Zivan NG3 Charger connected.jpg|Close up of ZiVan NG3 charger
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed front.jpg|Unstuffed control board - front
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed back.jpg|Unstuffed control board - back
Image:Batteries being installed 1.jpg|Batteries being installed
Image:Batteries being installed 2.jpg|More batteries
Image:Batt box top modified for alt mounting method.jpg|Battery box top (modified for alt. mounting)
Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|Bolt on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|Removing carpeting from on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|Removing the upright part of the rear seat
Image:OEM battery exposed.jpg|The OEM battery exposed
Image:Opening OEM battery.jpg|Opening the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside OEM battery from back of car.jpg|Inside the OEM battery (unmodified) from rear of car
Image:Inside OEM battery after tie in.jpg|Inside the OEM battery after HV tie-in
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery.jpg|Unmodified OEM battery low voltage wiring
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery modified.jpg|Modified OEM battery low voltage wiring (for charge interlock)


Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

====Photos from 2007 Maker Faire====
Some photos from the [[2007 Maker Faire]] conversion.
<gallery>

Image:Maker Faire 2007 1.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 2.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 3.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 4.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 5.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 6.jpg|


Image:IMG 1171.jpg|The Make Faire team: left to right, Ron Gremban, Jim Bernard, Carolyn Coquillete, Chris Ewert, Walt Ferris , Nick Rothman, Cody Jackson, Robb Protheroe, Tom Driscoll, Felix Kramer, Jim Philippi. Not shown: Randy Reisinger, Ailian Chong, Amanda Kovattana, Marc Geller, Fraser Smith.
Image:IMG 1179.jpg|Outside the building, at the main entrance to Maker Faire, the team posed Ron's car (world's first Prius conversion) and Felix's car (with Valence lithium-ion batteries)
Image:IMG 1154 2.jpg|Applying the vinyl lettering to Jim's car.
Image:IMG 1186.jpg|Securing the battery box frame to the body of the car.
Image:IMG 1187.jpg|The battery box fits above the battery and tilts up to allow access to the spare tire.
Image:IMG 1188.jpg|Last-minute wiring diagrams.
Image:IMG 1190.jpg|Our work-site had crowds all day Saturday and Sunday.
Image:IMG 1205.jpg|Installing components inside the battery box.
Image:IMG 1208.jpg|Custom-made circuit boards included.
Image:IMG 1215.jpg|The team worked late Sunday night to wrap up the project.

</gallery>

===General Reference Materials===
These are some other General Reference Materials we use elsewhere on the site. This is also an example of how to use references within the page text. See [[PiPrius conversion process]] for another example of a page with multiple reference tages.

* Prius Dismantle Manual <ref>[[Media:Priusdisman.pdf]] from http://www.airlabcorp.com/Prius/priusdisman.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:Stereo Accessory Install Guide 04 Prius v1.03.pdf]] from http://www.chrisdragon.com/downloads/Stereo%20Accessory%20Install%20Guide,%2004%20Prius,%20v1.03.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:PriusXMradio3.2.pdf]] from https://www.metrotpn.com/documents/PDF%20Files/Prius/Eddie's%20XMRadio%20Install/PriusXMradio3.2.pdf</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install without Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installNONAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install with Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installWNAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html</ref>

* [[Prius EV Mode Button]] Installation <ref>[[Media:Prius-evbutton-install.pdf]] from http://www.calcars.org/prius-evbutton-install.pdf</ref>

* Factory EV Mode Button <ref>[[Media:FactoryEV.pdf]] from http://www.scubadivervideo.com/Files/factoryEV.pdf</ref>

You should be familiar with these reference materials and standard operating procedures around high voltages.
<references/>

==Intro Editing Help==
===File Specific Help===
File link Examples, click the edit button for this section to see how it works.

====Text Links:====

* Using :Image takes you to the Images description page:
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* Using Media takes you directly to the file:
** [[Media:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* You can use a | to change the text of the link to something more descriptive.
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|Control Board]]

====Inline resized images:====

25px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]], 50px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|50px]], 150px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|150px]],

300px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|300px]]

====Thumbnails:====

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|caption]]

* Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.

{{Clear}} The <nowiki>{{Clear}}</nowiki> template can be used to force empty white space after a thumbnail before continuing with the next block of text.

* A Second Example...
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|left|Small On Left]]
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|Small On Right]]
Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.
'' Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''
''Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''

{{Clear}}

==References==
<references/>

[[Category:PHEV]]
[[Category:Prius]]
[[Category:Prius PHEV]]
[[Category:PriusPlus]]
[[Category:CalCars]]

File:076610.2042-pp2.pdf

2007-09-28T19:53:35Z

Cewert: hinged box

hinged box

File:076610.2041-PP2.pdf

2007-09-28T19:53:23Z

Cewert: hinged box

hinged box

File:076610.2040-PP2.pdf

2007-09-28T19:53:10Z

Cewert: hinged box

hinged box

File:076610.2039-pp2.pdf

2007-09-28T19:52:46Z

Cewert: hinged box

hinged box

File:076610.1004-PP2-1.PDF

2007-09-28T19:52:24Z

Cewert: hinged box designs

hinged box designs

PriusPlus-Theory

2007-09-23T14:05:45Z

Cewert: /* Theory Overview */ ways to get prius to use electricity

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
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{{TOCright}}
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==Theory Overview==
'''Todo''' This needs to be polished, but its just a quick overview for someone looking to do a conversion of how the system functions.

The fundamental basis of this conversion is the reported state of charge (SOC) of the stock NiMH battery in the Prius and keeping that reported state of charge where we want it to encourage the hybrid synergy drive (HSD) to use as much electric power as possible (at the right times) to offset gasoline usage. During different driving profiles, it is better to use electricity at different times. However, putting that aside for now, generally, to allow all EV driving, the SOC needs to be kept in a certain range (typically around 60-63%). When the reported SOC drops below the lower threshold, the PHEV battery and the OEM battery need to be paralleled. It has been found that EV mode can cause the OEM battery voltage to drop below 200 volts while accelerating. The algorithm for determining when to parallel the OEM battery and the PHEV battery needs to parallel the batteries when the voltage drops below 200 volts to make sure the car doesn't cancel EV mode because the OEM battery voltage is too low. To get the Prius to use electricity in highway driving, the reported SOC needs to be brought up to over 70% (typically 72-73%, however, never exceeding 80%.) The charge current limit (CCL or ACL in CAN-View) must be monitored to make sure the OEM battery is not being overcharged or overheated. The Prius will then enter a "get rid of charge any way possible" and be encouraged to use more electricity (up to about 6kW.) When the batteries are paralleled, it causes a voltage rise (because the PHEV pack is a higher nominal voltage than the stock battery). When the voltage hits a certain point, it causes a state of charge drift, which, once started, very rapidly increases the reported SOC.

In the current revision of the system, CAN-View (a computer sitting on the CAN bus monitoring status) is responsible for controlling the contactors. See below for more information on specific relays on CAN-View. The output from the 6 CAN-View relays is fed into a logic statement (currently just relay 3 OR 5 OR 6) to determine when to parallel the two packs. Another relay (#4) is a special relay turned on when the system is enabled, and off when the system is disabled.

There are 4 known ways to get the Prius to use electricity in place of gas:

'''EV Mode''' (0-34mph)
The Japanese version of the Prius has a button on the dash which allows the car to enter an all electric mode at speeds up to 34mph. The button is not present on the North American version, however the functionality is still present and can be enabled by tapping a wire in the dash and grounding it to enter EV mode. EV mode is available when a few criteria are met. While this mode may seem like the only option for good mileage, similar mileage can actually be obtained without using EV mode with a high SOC (see below)

'''Stealth''' (0-42mph)
Stealth mode is when the car shuts off the gas engine while coasting. With a PHEV conversion, instead of being able to enter stealth for just a mile or two, you can instead stay in stealth mode much longer. Stealth will use the gas engine for acceleration (when it is most efficient) and then shut off the gas engine for coasting (when it is otherwise least efficient.) For really long trips, this is the most efficient place to use electricity.

'''ICEspin''' (42+ mph)
ICEspin is difficult to enter, but will provide up to 3kW of electric drive at high speeds. It operates much like stealth, except the gas engine is still physically spinning, but the fuel injectors are off. Like stealth, a PHEV conversion allows significantly more range than the stock Prius.

'''ICErun + High SOC'''
While the ICE is running, the Prius evaluates the OEM battery's reported state of charge (SOC). If the SOC is below about 60%, the Prius works to charge the battery from the ICE when the ICE is running. In a PHEV conversion, this is the opposite of what is desired (unless the PHEV battery is depleted.) If the SOC is higher than about 60%, it actually uses electricity to offset gasoline usage, (reason being that otherwise that electricity would just get wasted because regenerative braking would have nowhere to put the new power and burn it up in the brake pads.) For this reason, if the reported state of charge is either altered on the CAN bus or the OEM battery really has that much charge, the Prius will use up to about 30-40 amps (~6-8kW) to assist the gas engine. With a higher SOC, it is much easier to enter stealth and ICEspin as well. The ideal SOC, in terms of maximum electricity used, seems to be about 74%.

==The PHEV Battery Pack==

The PHEV pack consists of twenty 12 volt 20 amp hour sealed lead acid batteries connected in series. The batteries themselves sit in an aluminum box and are mounted above the spare tire well, but below the false floor in the trunk. The pack has a nominal voltage of 240 volts and has a total energy storage of about 4.8 kWh (not all usable.) In this design, the PHEV battery pack has a higher nominal voltage than the stock NiMH battery and is used to charge the stock NiMH battery. Contactors (large relays) are used to connect and disconnect the PHEV battery pack from the stock battery when charging is needed. The higher voltage pack cannot always be connected to the stock pack, because that would overcharge the batteries. NiMH battery packs also cannot easily be charged in parallel, so simply adding a second NiMH battery pack is not simple. The current from the battery pack is less than 60 amps, and therefore the pack is fused with 60 amp 300VDC (or higher) fuses. The batteries must be connected using 8 AWG wire or larger (smaller AWG number) to handle the amount of current.

The PHEV battery does not have its own battery management computer. As the PHEV battery’s state-of-charge (SOC) decreases, it is put in parallel with the OEM battery more and more continuously. Charge-sustaining operation at the PHEV battery’s minimum intended SOC occurs when the PHEV battery’s voltage matches the voltage of the OEM battery’s 60% SOC voltage well enough that average PHEV battery current becomes zero. This is a soft limit that depends upon driving conditions, temperatures, PHEV battery condition, and the state of the moon; and PHEV operation slowly morphs into hybrid operation rather than changing abruptly. Ordinarily, around 10-13 Amp-hr is removed from the PHEV battery before electric assist is exhausted. The depth-of-discharge (DOD = 100% - SOC) that this corresponds to is anyone’s guess, as due to Peukert’s Law (PbA batteries have lower capacity at high discharge rates) and high, variable discharge rates, the battery pack’s capacity is diminished by a large, unknown amount.

===Current PbA limitations===
*The conversion adds 300+ lbs to the vehicle’s weight to provide 10 miles of electric range per charge (16.7 usable Wh/kg)
**Though Ron has safely driven 17,000 miles in his converted Prius, the added weight could possibly cause vehicle instability during driving, and the battery may modify the effectiveness of the vehicle’s rear crush zone.
**Existing conversions sit 1-2 inches low in the rear. Air shocks or heaver-duty rear springs would be nice, but have not yet been developed.
**Though there are indications that improved hybrid efficiency due to a lower combined internal resistance of the two-battery combination at least partially compensates for the added weight, city gasoline mileage is otherwise reduced by up to 10%.
*Operating costs are high due to an expected cycle life of only 300-400 deep cycles, providing only one to two years of daily driving (at 400 cycles, 10 electric miles per 2.1 kWh cycle, and $800/pack, battery cost is $0.95/kWh throughput or $0.20/electric-mile (in addition to the cost of electricity, usually 2-4 cents/mile depending on utility rates).
*For decent battery life, the battery must always be charged within a day of discharge, making charging a required rather than optional operation (if planning to drive to somewhere without access to electricity, temporarily turn off PHEV operation).
*PbA batteries perform very poorly in cold weather. Though our design includes a thermally insulated battery pack, heated during charging, this feature has been insufficiently tested due to moderate California temperatures during development.

===Possible Future Battery Options===
More advanced batteries may be retrofittable to the conversion. This will probably require upgrading to CalCars’ not-yet-designed next version of logic board, and will also probably require additional battery management electronics. Any new battery’s enclosure, mounting, and thermal management system will no doubt also be very different.

Possible future batteries and their likely characteristics (incl. low-volume pricing):

Example pack
{| border=1 cellpadding=2 |
| Chemistry || || Usable Wh/kg || Cycle life || Yr daily driving || $/usable kWh || $/kWh thruput || Cents/ EV-mi || kWh || $ || EV mi || Wt, lb
|-
| PbA (current) || || 16 || 400 || 1.1 || $380 || $0.95 || 20.0 || 2.1 || $ 798 || 10 || 289
|-
| NiMH || worst || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $1,200 || $0.60 || 12.6 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiMH || best || 36 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 4.2 || $3,360 || 20 || 257
|-
| Li-ion || worst || 56 || 1000 || 2.7 || $1,200 || $1.20 || 25.2 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 165
|-
| Li-ion || best || 100 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 6.3 || $5,040 || 30 || 139
|-
| NiZn || worst || 36 || 500 || 1.4 || $500 || $1.00 || 21.0 || 4.2 || $2,100 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiZn || best || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $350 || $0.18 || 3.7 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || worst || 36 || 1000 || 2.7 || $350 || $0.35 || 7.4 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || best || 45 || 4000 || 11.0 || $250 || $0.06 || 1.3 || 5.25 || $1,313 || 25 || 257
|}

Note that figures are for usable, not total, capacity in kWh (usually 80%, but much less for the current PbA pack (4.8 kWh total capacity), due to Peukert’s Law).

==The Charger==

The charger runs on standard 120v (or 240v) AC power and is used to recharge the PHEV pack. Three options are planned:
*a Delta-q charger (http://www.delta-q.com) designed for the PbA battery pack, at a projected price of $800. We are in discussions with the company and will soon know if/when pre-production units will be available; UL-approved units are likely to be available in 2007.
*the Brusa NLG503 charger, available through http://www.metricmind.com/index1.htm for $2650 retail including cables (a group rate is possible). Users can reprogram this charger for other voltages and battery chemistries, so it would be a good purchase for developers anticipating an eventual high-tech replacement battery.
*(eventually) the Manzanita Micro PFC-40 charger, available through http://manzanitamicro.com for around $2000. This charger has programmable but less sophisticated charging algorithms, but can also double as a high-power DC:DC converter between the battery packs. Its output is ''not'' line isolated. Its incorporation will require modifications/enhancements of this conversion, and control circuitry and algorithms that have not yet been developed.

Useful information on charging lead-acid batteries can be found at [http://batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm http://batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm]

==The CAN-View==

The [[CAN-View]] is a computer which monitors the [[CAN]] bus (the bus which the different microprocessors in the Prius use to communicate with each other) and both displays information to the driver on a display as well as control the extra plug-in systems. The Can-View computer can be programmed to turn on and off a series of relays which are used to control the PHEV operations. There are currently 2 versions of CAN-View available. Version 3 requires an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or [[MFD]]) while Version 4 works with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) CAN-View is simple to install and installation typically requires between a half hour to one and a half hours. For more information, see [[CAN-View]].

Version 3 of [[CAN-View]] must be ordered with the PHEV relay board option to be used in this conversion. Version 4 comes standard with the PHEV relays. [[CAN-View]] has 6 relays. Relays RL1 and RL4 are special relays which are try-EV mode and PHEV/orig. RL4 is triggered by pressing "orig/PHEV" on the CAN-View screen.

RL2, RL3, RL5 and RL6 are programmable.

==EV Mode Button/Wire==
The Prius can be put into "EV" mode which essentially turns the car into an electric car for speeds under 34mph. While Prius's come standard with a button in the dash in some countries, the button is not on the North American model, however the software is still present. EV mode can be entered by momentarily grounding pin 27 on plug H16 on the HV ECU. If the car exceeds 34mph or a host of other conditions are not met (such as the current charge limit, OEM battery temperature, low SOC, throttle, etc), the Prius will automatically exit EV mode and resume ICE use. For more detailed information on EV mode, see [[Prius EV Mode Button]].

==Control Circuit Board==

A circuit board is needed which contains the logic to control the added heaters, fans, contactors, etc. The board is roughly 5" by 6" and is mounted in the electronics tray, between the PHEV battery and the stock battery.

Sub parts of this board are;
* Power management - takes input from CAN-View and controls the contactors connecting the PHEV battery with the stock battery.
* Battery Heating & Cooling - senses and controls the fans and heaters to keep battery temperatures within defined ranges.
* System diagnostics - A simple LED board interface to monitor the technical operation of the system for debugging.
* Charge interlock - stops the car from being driven away while plugged into a live outlet.

===PHEV Battery Heating & Cooling===

Lead acid batteries do not function as well when they are either hot or cold. The pack is heated and cooled as necessary by three standard 12" x 15" heating pads and three fans. The circuit board is responsible for controlling the heaters and fans. Depending on the layout, vents are provided either throught he bottom of the tire well or through the stock vent behind the storage bin on the rear drivers side of the car.

===OEM Battery Fan Controls===
The OEM controller connects the light green wire to the OEM fan to +14V when the OEM battery temperature reaches around 89-96 deg F. This control leaves that connection in place but taps it and runs it to J8F pin 1. Once the fan is so energized, proportional control is affected by varying the current to the violet line to the negative terminal of the OEM fan. The voltage of this line is monitored, and a DTC (system error) is asserted if the fan has become an open circuit. Control is effected by removing the violet line from the OEM fan and running it instead to J8F pin 3. J8F pin 5 is then run to the OEM fan. A diode (actually 3 in-line 3A diodes in parallel to handle 5A) between pin 3 and pin 5 allows the OEM control to operate the fan normally when the control board is unplugged (J8F plugs into J8M on the control board).

The control board has a 2.2K resistor between pins 1 and 3 of J8, a controlled pullup from pin 1 to +14V, and a controlled pulldown from pin 5 to chassis ground. When not in PHEV mode, the control board does nothing. When in PHEV mode, pin 5 is always pulled down to ground. This causes the fan to run at full bore whenever there is power on pin 1 (normally when the OEM battery temperature is above 89-96 deg F). The 2.2K resistor provides just enough load to the OEM proportional control circuit that it doesn't think the fan is an open-circuit and declare a DTC (hybrid system error). At the cost of some passenger compartment noise, this keeps the OEM battery temperature below 100 deg F instead of around 114 deg F, thereby keeping it cool enough for EV mode, which will not work when the OEM battery's temperature is above 104 deg F, to continue to be enabled. The lower temperature also prevents significant temperature-related reductions in CCL. It would no doubt be possible to proportionately control the fan to this lower temperature, too, but this system is not yet that sophisticated.

The pullup on J8 pin 1 is to allow the PHEV system to force the OEM fan ON when desired and the OEM battery temperature is below 89-96 deg F. A recommended use of this feature is to force the fan ON when the OEM battery temperature is so low that discharge current limit (DCL) is below 100A, thereby (sometimes severely) limiting EV mode current. If the driver, as would be expected, is using the cabin heater, the fan can speed up the heating of the OEM battery by blowing cabin air over it, thereby enabling EV mode and increasing DCL to useful values sooner than without forcing the fan ON.

==Electronics Tray==

===HVD1===
The purpose of the diode is to allow energy from the regen braking into the PHEV battery pack. This functionality is off when CAN-View's ORIG/PHEV relay is set for ORIG (which turns off HVRL2.) The heatsink can dissipate >200 watts for short braking or around 100 watts for several minutes during downhill braking, and must be well connected to the heatsink and in the path of a fan when is on whenever the car is in ready mode. The diode will only heat when braking or when the battery is being charged by the ICE. The diode requires a DO-5 mounting kit to insulate the diode from the heatsink electrically, but still allow thermal conductivity.

===Contactors===
HVRL1 is responsible for paralleling the PHEV battery pack and the OEM Prius battery. HVRL2 is responsible for enabling / disabling the system. HVRL3 is used for the optional power resistor. HVRL1 and HVRL2 both have snubbers across the terminals to reduce arcing and extend the life of the contactors.

==References==
<references/>

[[Category:PHEV]]
[[Category:Prius]]
[[Category:Prius PHEV]]
[[Category:PriusPlus]]
[[Category:CalCars]]

PriusPlus

2007-09-19T03:37:07Z

Cewert: /* About the PriusPlus Project */ open source

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
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We'd like discussion of this page to happen here on this page’s Discussion tab and general discussion of the conversion to occur on the [[Maillist|eaa-phev maillist]].

==About the Open Source PriusPlus Project==
The PriusPlus project is an open source project setup to develop a method to convert a '04-'07 Toyota Prius into a Plug-in Hybrid. The project is a combination of hardware and software development to allow qualified individuals or individuals working with a qualified electrician to convert their own car to a [[PHEV]].

==Current Status==
While the documentation is not yet as through as would be desired, the necessary information is available to complete a conversion. Please use the links above to navigate to the various documentation pages. Many photos are available on the RawData page.

See this 2007 08 01 maillist post for the [[User:Rgremban/2007 08 01-PriusPlus Project Update|Latest News]].
If you are interested in helping improve the documentation, please contact Chris Ewert (chris at infolaunch.com)

Another avid Prius enthusiast named Cheap! is currently in the process of his own conversion using CalCars PriusPlus processes and documenting his progress at [http://priuschat.com/My-official-Prius-Plus-mods-thread-t26951.html priuschat].

==Overview==
{{TOCright}}

The PriusPlus conversion retains the OEM hybrid battery and its management computer while adding a lead-acid pack consisting of 20 BB Battery EVP20-12B 12V, 20 Amp-hour sealed AGM PbA batteries. PbA battery chemistry is very inexpensive but leads to significant limitations (see below). However, with this relatively inexpensive conversion (as little as $4000 parts cost, including the battery) you can be the first in your community to actually own and drive a plug-in hybrid, and you can achieve 100+ mpg (plus electricity) for 15-20 miles/day!

Though we are using the best and most cost-effective PbA modules we could find, a PbA PHEV is neither economically nor operationally up to par. But as of now, it is the only relatively inexpensive way to own and drive a real PHEV. More advanced batteries are on the way and may well be available by the time (1-2 years from now) the PbA battery needs replacement (see below for specifics.)

Below is a fairly comprehensive list of our public domain PbA Prius conversion’s advantages, operating and mechanical characteristics, and limitations:

===Advantages===
*Detailed instructions for easy installation by anyone trained in high-voltage safety
*Pure electric propulsion at up to 34 mph for up to 10-12 miles per charge
*Lower gasoline use at all speeds until the PHEV battery is depleted
*Displacement of gasoline:
**at an equivalent energy cost of less than $1.00/gallon (at up to $0.09/kWh), possibly using low-cost nighttime electricity if your utility provides optional time-of-use metering
**with renewable electricity, if you have solar panels on your home or specifically buy electricity from renewable sources
*No modification of the Prius’ hybrid propulsion system, for uncompromised vehicle reliability
*Several selectable text and graphics display screens for real-time observation of hybrid system and PHEV parameters
*A pull-out power cord that plugs into any standard U.S. 15A, 120VAC outlet or a mounted bumper inlet
*An interlock to prevent driving away while the battery charger is still plugged into a live electrical outlet

===Prius-forced limitations===
*This conversion will no doubt void parts of Toyota’s warranty. U.S. law prohibits aftermarket modifications from voiding any part of a vehicle’s warranty except for problems specifically caused by the modification. If repair of the OEM battery, transaxle, or other parts of the hybrid system becomes necessary, Toyota may argue that the PHEV modification has caused the problem. The outcome is uncertain, see also our [[Warranty]] article.
*EV-only mode (which inhibits ICE operation) works only up to 34 mph, 120A of power (modest acceleration), and a few more obscure limits
*The conversion’s data display can share the vehicle’s multifunction display screen only in 2004-5 Prii; later models require an additional display screen (optional on 2004-5 Prii).
*When the Prius starts the ICE for the first time after being turned on, the ICE must warm up for several minutes before EV mode can be re-entered. This process burns more fuel than normal.
*The charge / discharge limits are affected by the temperature of the OEM battery.

===PbA limitations===
*The conversion adds 300+ lbs to the vehicle’s weight to provide 10 miles of electric range per charge (16.7 usable Wh/kg)
**Though I have safely driven 17,000 miles in my converted Prius, the added weight could possibly cause vehicle instability during driving, and the battery may modify the effectiveness of the vehicle’s rear crush zone.
**Existing conversions sit 1-2 inches low in the rear. Air shocks or heaver-duty rear springs would be nice, but have not yet been developed.
**Though there are indications that improved hybrid efficiency due to a lower combined internal resistance of the two-battery combination at least partially compensates for the added weight, city gasoline mileage is otherwise reduced by up to 10%.
*Operating costs are high due to an expected cycle life of only 300-400 deep cycles, providing only one to two years of daily driving (at 400 cycles, 10 electric miles per 2.1 kWh cycle, and $800/pack, battery cost is $0.95/kWh throughput or $0.20/electric-mile (in addition to the cost of electricity, usually 2-4 cents/mile depending on utility rates).
*For decent battery life, the battery must always be charged within a day of discharge, making charging a required rather than optional operation (if planning to drive to somewhere without access to electricity, temporarily turn off PHEV operation).
*PbA batteries perform very poorly in cold weather. Though our design includes a thermally insulated battery pack, heated during charging, this feature has been insufficiently tested due to moderate California temperatures during development.

===Safety===
*Potentially lethal voltages are involved. It is important for the high-voltage wiring to be done by an electrician or an engineer experienced with high-voltage safety.
**Once the conversion is complete, all high voltages are inside screw- or bolt-secured areas, but these areas are exposed during parts of the conversion process, during battery replacement and other servicing, and possibly after a crash.
**In keeping with hybrid automotive standards, high voltage cabling is labeled with orange (as #4 gauge and larger orange wire is not readily available, we specify the addition of orange shrink-wrap at each end)
*This design should be adequate to contain the batteries in any normal driving conditions, but extreme or off-road maneuvers could damage the installation, potentially causing a hazard.
*More importantly, though we believe the parts are well-secured, we are not automotive design engineers, the design has not been crash-tested, and its characteristics during and after a crash are unknown. In particular, it is uncertain whether the battery box would remain intact and in place during a roll-over incident.
**PbA modules could tear out of their brackets and fly around the passenger compartment
**Though these AGM PbA modules are not flooded, they could leak acid if crushed.
**Short circuits could arise, causing sparks, hot, molten metal, and possibly igniting a fire.
**The battery pack may modify the characteristics of the vehicle’s rear crush zone.

===Operational characteristics===
*Entry into EV-only mode is automated. Manual entry is also available. Due to a complex interaction with Toyota’s battery management computer, EV-only mode is unavailable for a short distance (usually less than ½ block) after slowing down from highway speeds.
*The paralleling of the PHEV battery to the OEM battery is switched on and off as needed. Occupants will hear the contactor periodically doing this, but will not directly feel any effects from it.
*When the PHEV battery is fully charged, EV-only mode can be sustained up a steep, extended hill at maximum allowable EV-only power (100-120A). At lower states of charge, the voltage may fall, causing the engine to start.
*When going down a long hill at low PHEV battery SOC, some regenerative current does flow back into the PHEV battery. This effect, however, is not as large as would be desirable.
*The Prius’ hybrid system allows EV-only mode only when the OEM battery temperature is below 107 deg F, but non-EV-only maximum battery temperature is enough higher that Toyota’s battery cooling system does not work hard to avoid exceeding 107 degrees. The conversion modifies this system so that the fan comes on at full speed whenever OEM battery temperature is above approximately 90 deg F. This almost always keeps OEM battery temperature within EV-only range, but is somewhat noisy.

===Other characteristics===
*It will probably be helpful at various points to refer to specific Prius Service Manual<ref>awaiting url to Prius Service Manual website.</ref> pages, available for download by paying Toyota $10/day for access (only one day is needed).
*The mechanical design is sturdy and simple. It should be easy for anyone mechanically inclined to build; even more so if and when various prefabricated parts become available.
*This conversion includes a simple and inexpensive insulated battery box that is both air-cooled when necessary and heated as needed, but only during charging.
**The thermostatically-controlled cooling fans need only run at high ambient temperatures, to keep battery temperatures below 120 deg F. However, they are also run during non-heated charging to ensure any venting of the modules is flushed to outside the passenger compartment.
*PbA batteries have increasingly poor operating characteristics at low temperatures, starting around 55 deg F. We thermally insulate and heat them to retain their usefulness down to lower ambient temperatures. An advantage of retaining the OEM battery for normal hybrid operation is that poor PbA cold-weather performance affects only PHEV, not normal hybrid, operation.
**Since we have not come up with a scheme to heat the battery pack from waste engine heat, and electric heating from the battery would be unproductive, we heat electrically only during charging. This should keep the battery pack sufficiently warm for effective charging and for several hours thereafter in most climates. The system has not been sufficiently tested, however, due to very moderate California weather during development.
**Heating is accomplished via ordinary drugstore electric heating pads, thermostatically controlled via a thermistor and powered by the AC line during charging. They consume about 100 watts when in use, so overnight heating can add 1 kWh, or around 25%, to cold-weather electricity consumption.

===Planned Enhancements/Options===
*A new version of the logic board has been designed, as much as possible, to accomodate a DC:DC converter such as the Manzanita Micro PFC-40, various battery chemistries, various separate PHEV battery management systems (BMS), and digital data acquisition.
*[http://manzanitamicro.com Manzanita Micro] is designing a [[PiPrius]] PHEV conversion kit for sale, using a lower-voltage pack of larger PbA batteries and their [http://manzanitamicro.com/chargers3.htm PFC-40 charger] as both a charger and DC:DC converter between batteries. It is our intention to develop a version of this conversion that uses the PFC-40 in the same ways. It will probably require the next version of our logic board, and will have the following relative characteristics:
**Advantages
***Lower peak currents in both batteries, due to a 40A current limit between them
***Increased regenerative braking back into the PHEV battery, mainly valuable during extended downhill grades
***Possibly slightly longer EV range, due to the above advantages
***A range of PHEV battery voltages can be accommodated.
***Various battery chemistries can be used and accurately kept within their specifications by the required battery management system (BMS).
***Because the PHEV battery must have a BMS, it is possible to more carefully control its minimum state-of-charge (SOC), thereby more carefully trading off useful capacity vs. cycle life.
**Disadvantages
***During charge, the battery pack is not isolated from input power. This means extra care must be taken to electrically insulate the battery pack from the vehicle chassis, the hybrid system, and all possible human contact points.
***The batteries are not kept in parallel during post-PHEV hybrid operations, possibly limiting hybrid efficiency to that of an unmodified Prius. More complex PFC-40 switching may minimize or eliminate this effect.
***Unless voltage minima and maxima turn out to be sufficient cues, a battery management system (BMS), including reasonably accurate state-of-charge (SOC) measurement, will be required to maintain SOC limits.

===Advanced batteries===
*More advanced batteries may be retrofittable to the conversion. This will probably require upgrading to CalCars’ not-yet-designed next version of logic board, and will also probably require additional battery management electronics. Any new battery’s enclosure, mounting, and thermal management system will no doubt also be very different.

Possible future batteries and their likely characteristics (incl. low-volume pricing):

Example pack
{| border=1 cellpadding=2 |
| Chemistry || || Usable Wh/kg || Cycle life || Yr daily driving || $/usable kWh || $/kWh thruput || Cents/ EV-mi || kWh || $ || EV mi || Wt, lb
|-
| PbA (current) || || 16 || 400 || 1.1 || $380 || $0.95 || 20.0 || 2.1 || $ 798 || 10 || 289
|-
| NiMH || worst || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $1,200 || $0.60 || 12.6 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiMH || best || 36 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 4.2 || $3,360 || 20 || 257
|-
| Li-ion || worst || 56 || 1000 || 2.7 || $1,200 || $1.20 || 25.2 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 165
|-
| Li-ion || best || 100 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 6.3 || $5,040 || 30 || 139
|-
| NiZn || worst || 36 || 500 || 1.4 || $500 || $1.00 || 21.0 || 4.2 || $2,100 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiZn || best || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $350 || $0.18 || 3.7 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || worst || 36 || 1000 || 2.7 || $350 || $0.35 || 7.4 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || best || 45 || 4000 || 11.0 || $250 || $0.06 || 1.3 || 5.25 || $1,313 || 25 || 257
|}

Note that figures are for usable, not total, capacity in kWh (usually 80%, but much less for the current PbA pack (4.8 kWh total capacity), due to Peukert’s Law).

===Parts availability===
All parts are off-the-shelf with the following exceptions:
*the logic board
**Once we know demand, we will order a bunch fabricated. Post-fabrication rework is also required due to major architectural changes since its inception.
**A reworked, stuffed, and fully-tested form of this board may be made available at some point. If so, it will probably cost hundreds of dollars and save 20-40 hours of parts purchase, identification, stuffing, soldering, and testing.
**We do plan to redesign this board in the future, using IC logic, a PLA, and/or a microcontroller. The new version will probably be required for eventual upgrade of a conversion to use a more advanced battery pack.
*a version of [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca CAN-View] with relays to control the conversion. 2006+ Prii require a version capable of driving an add-on touch-screen; this should be available by the time anyone needs it.
*a charger designed for the PbA battery pack. Three options are planned:
**a Delta-q charger (http://www.delta-q.com) designed for the PbA battery pack, at a projected price of $800. We are in discussions with the company and will soon know if/when pre-production units will be available; UL-approved units are likely to be available in 2007.
**the Brusa NLG503 charger, available through http://www.metricmind.com/index1.htm for $2650 retail including cables (a group rate is possible). Users can reprogram this charger for other voltages and battery chemistries, so it would be a good purchase for developers anticipating an eventual high-tech replacement battery.
**(eventually) the Manzanita Micro PFC-40 charger, available through http://manzanitamicro.com for around $2000. This charger has programmable but less sophisticated charging algorithms, but can also double as a high-power DC:DC converter between the battery packs. Its output is ''not'' line isolated. Its incorporation will require modifications/enhancements of this conversion, and control circuitry and algorithms that have not yet been developed.
*mechanical parts that require fabrication from off-the-shelf pieces such as angle aluminum and sheets of ABS, plexiglass, and/or lexan (polycarbonate)
**Some of these parts may eventually become available prefabricated.
*We, or some other suppler or affiliate, may offer various components to speed and simplify the conversion. We’re interested (see the [[Conversion Interest]] page) in knowing how much interest there is for pre-assembled (or at least pre-cut) components, at a higher cost than fabrication via you own free labor but no doubt lower than what you would have to pay a fabricator.

The table below outlines approximate component costs, as well as estimated labor costs for component fabrication or assembly. A range is given, as the number of components made and where they are done has a great bearing on the final cost. We are not fabricators, professional assemblers, or product retailers, so these are guesses as to what a for-profit company or craftsman would charge. If a great number of kits or components are desired, offshore fabricators may beat these estimates by a lot.

''Please answer the new questions for our information-gathering at the [[Conversion Interest]] page.''

::{| border=1 cellpadding=2 |
| colspan=2 |
Estimated Fabrication Costs
|-
| Assembled and tested circuit board || $250-500
|-
| Battery tray (4 needed) || $150-250
|-
| Battery box top || $150-200
|-
| Battery box foundation || $150-200
|-
| Electronics tray, assembled and wired || $500-1K
|-
| Set of pre-built battery cables || $150-200
|-
| Pre-built low-power wiring harness || $150-300
|-
| Total (including 4 trays) || $1950-2500
|}
These are estimates for the labor only; approximate components costs are below.

:::{| border=1 cellpadding=2 |
| Est. Component Costs || Min || Max
|-
| Battery set (20 + 2 spares) || 900 || 1100
|-
| Battery wire & lugs || 100 || 150
|-
| Heating pads & insulation || 100 || 100
|-
| CAN-View || 600 || 600
|-
| Display (opt for 2004-5 Prii) || 0 || 200
|-
| Charger (Delta-q or Brusa) || 800 || 2500
|-
| Cord reel & base, brackets || 100 ||100
|-
| Contactors (3) || 240 || 330
|-
| Fuses & holders 60 A (2) || 100 || 150
|-
| Fans (3) || 60 || 120
|-
| All metal & plastic || 200 || 300
|-
| Circuit board || 100 || 100
|-
| Circuit board components || 200 || 300
|-
| Connectors || 200 || 300
|-
| Misc. electronics || 150 || 200
|-
| Total || 3850 || 6550
|}

==History==
For reference and posterity sake, the previous incarnation of Ron's original conversion at [[PriusPlus History]].

{{Disclaimer}}

===References===
<references/>

[[Category:PHEV]]
[[Category:Prius]]
[[Category:Prius PHEV]]
[[Category:PriusPlus]]
[[Category:CalCars]]

Template:PriusPlus-Doc Process

2007-09-19T03:36:19Z

Cewert: DIY documentation changed to open source project + cleanup

{| class="collapsible collapsed" style="background:#DFFFDF;width:100%;"
! style="background:#EFFFEF;text-align:center;" |
--={ '''[[PriusPlus|Project Overview]]'''
}={ [[PriusPlus-Theory|Theory]]
}={ [[PriusPlus-Instructions|Instructions]]
}={ [[PriusPlus-PartsList|Parts List]]
}={ [[PriusPlus-RawData|RawData]]
}={ [[User:Rgremban/2007 08 01-PriusPlus Project Update|Latest News]]

}=--
|-
| bgcolor=#FAFFFA |
[[Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames 061112.jpg|thumb|right|Team Photo from the [[PriusPlus]] conversion of Sven's Prius from Nov 2006.]]
This is the home of the PRIUS+ PHEV DIY (Do-it-Yourself) documentation.
These pages are currently anonymously editable, which may change in the future.
Please feel free to use the Discussion page for general discussion and commentary on the main article.
If you would like to add to an existing section use the '''''"edit"'' link near that topic's heading'''.
Don't forget to use the Summary field to describe your changes.
While editing use the '''"Show Preview"''' button to make sure your changes look like you expect them to, before you click '''"Save Page"'''.
{{EditThis|Template:PriusPlus-Doc Process|left}}
|}
<includeonly></includeonly><noinclude>
{| width=100%
||
Here is further explanation of the content you will find in these PriusPlus-Doc Process pages.
:{| cellpadding=2
|| [[PriusPlus]] || Overview of the CalCars PriusPlus Open Source Project
|-
|| [[PriusPlus-Theory]] || Operating theory of the system
|-
|| [[PriusPlus-Instructions]] || Step-By-Step Do It Yourself Instructions
|-
|| [[PriusPlus-PartsList]] || Parts lists for the PriusPlus Project
|-
|| [[PriusPlus-RawData]] || All resource files, schematics, images, etc.
|-
|| [[User:Rgremban/2007 08 01-PriusPlus Project Update|Latest News]] || The latest Project Summary via the maillist
|}
|}
</noinclude>

PriusPlus-PartsList

2007-09-14T17:55:57Z

Cewert: Removed inaccurate parts list, uploaded most up to date .xls file

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}{{TOCright}}

=Parts list=
This page will become a master parts list for the entire PriusPlus project, will contain links to DigiKey's quick order list, and descriptions weighing the pro's and con's of different larger items (for example, chargers, batteries). '''This page is by no means complete yet'''

==High Voltage Parts List==

Download the Digikey parts (Excel spreadsheet)

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HVPartsList.zip]]

{| border=1 cellpadding=4 cellspacing=0 |
| colspan=6 | Non-DigiKey Parts
|-
| Photo || Qty || Description || Manufacture || Model # || Est. Cost
|-
| [[Image:EV200 Contactor.JPG|50px]] || 2 || Contactor || Kilovac || EV200-AAANA || $85-120/ea
|-
| [[Image:JTN60060 Fuse Holder.JPG|50px]] || 2 || Finger safe fuse holder || Bussman || JT60060 || $28/ea
|-
| [[Image:LPJ-60SP.JPG|50px]] || 2 || 60 amp 300 VDC fuse || Bussman || LPJ-60SP || $22/ea
|-
| [[Image:PP75 Connectors.jpg|50px]] || 4 || Black 75 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP75 || ~$2.00/ea
|-
| [[Image:PP75 Connectors.jpg|50px]] || 4 || Red 75 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP75 || ~$2.00/ea
|-
| [[Image:PP75 Connectors.jpg|50px]] || 8+ || 8AWG crimps for PP75 || Anderson || PP75 || $/ea
|-
| || 6 || Red 15 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 6 || Black 15 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 6 || Green 15 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 2 || White 15 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 2 || Yellow 15 amp connector housings|| Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 22+ || ? AWG crimps for PP15 || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 3 || 12v Fans 120mm (>100CFM airflow) || || || $10-15/ea
|-
|}

==Control Board Parts List==
'''A few issues have been found with the posted version of the control board schematics. The new version will be posted shortly, but the parts list is expected to change quite a bit.'''
{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList}}

==LED Board Parts List==
'''A few issues have been found with the posted version of the control board schematics. The new version will be posted shortly, but the parts list is expected to change a bit.'''
The public DigiKey parts list for the LED board can be found
{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdPartsList}}

[[Category:PHEV]]
[[Category:Prius]]
[[Category:Prius PHEV]]
[[Category:PriusPlus]]
[[Category:CalCars]]

File:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HVPartsList.zip

2007-09-14T17:50:41Z

Cewert: Electrical, Interconnects and High Voltage parts

Electrical, Interconnects and High Voltage parts

Prius PHEV TechInfo

2007-09-04T04:03:43Z

Cewert: SOC spoofing

{{TOCright}}

Technical information on the [[Toyota Prius|Prius]] useful when designing a [[Prius PHEV]] conversion.

==Original generation==
This is the original 4-door sedan:
*1997 Japan only release, chassis NHW10 (Gen 1, referred to as Mk1 in Australia and the UK, where it has occasionally been privately imported)
*2000 worldwide release, chassis NHW11 (Almost always called Gen 1 in North America, sometimes Gen 2)

==Present generation==
This is the 5-door hatchback, often called Gen 2, sometimes called Gen 3:
*2003 release in selected countries (as model year 2004), chassis NHW20.

===Traction battery===

====Specs====
* Mass: 83 lb (37.5 kg)
* Dimensions: 33 x 15 x 7.5"
* Nominal Voltage: 201.6 V
* Nominal Capacity : 6.5Ah
* Module wight: 1040 g
* Module Form Factor: Prismatic
* No of Modules: 28
* Total no of Cells: 168
* Module specs: http://www.peve.jp/e/hevjyusi.html

====Functions====

The traction battery includes a Battery ECU (Electronic Control Unit). As the Battery Management System (BMS), this unit does the following:
* It calculates the battery's [[SOC]] by integrating the current ("Coulomb counting"). This value is corrected for [[State Of Charge Drift]], self-discharge when the vehicle is not running, etc, by skewing the SOC upward when the open circuit battery voltage surpasses approx. 242V, and, presumably, by skewing it downward when the open circuit voltage is below an as-yet-unmeasured value.
* It reads the pack temperature using 3 thermistors, and the air intake temperature with a 4th thermistor
* It controls its cooling fan (variable speed).
* It calculates the battery dynamic resistance (delta voltage over delta current). This resistance increases with battery aging.
* It protects the battery by limiting its current (even down to 0), if the SOC or temperature are at their limits, or the dynamic resistance is too high, or if it detects a fault.
* It broadcasts to the rest of the vehicle, through the CAN bus, the following data:
** Voltage
** Current (positive for discharge, negative for charge)
** Minimum & maximum temperature
** Maximum current it's able to provide (Discharge Current Limit, or DCL)
** Maximum current it's able to accept (Charge Current Limit, or CCL)
** State Of Charge (SOC)
** Any fault codes (DTCs)

====Battery voltage====
[[Image:Prius-Pack_Voltage_vs_temperature.gif|thumb||right|Voltage vs State Of Charge at various temperatures]]
[[Image:Prius-Pack_Voltage_vs_Current.gif|thumb|right|Voltage vs State Of Charge at various discharge currents]]

If you replace the stock battery, you need to know its voltage, because that's what the vehicle expects. If you add a pack to the stock battery, you need to know its voltage, in order to connect the two together, somehow.

The nominal pack voltage is: 168 cells x 1.2 V = 201.6 V

The pack voltage depends on SOC, temperature and current.
* The voltage depends on State of Charge and on temperature. It is affected by cold, but not much by heat; so, for temperatures abiove 20 C, use the 20 C curve.
* The voltage depends on State of Charge and on discharge current. The voltage is not affected by low currents; so, for current below 1.3 A, use the 1.3 A curve.
* The maximum charge voltage is 1.8 V / cell.

{|align="left" border="1"
| colspan=4 | Therefore, roughly, the estimate pack voltage range is:
|-
||
||Max brake
||No current
||Max drive
|-
||>=20 C, 0% DOD
||302 V
||237 V
||168 V
|-
||-10 C, 80 % DOD
||302 V
||160 V
||126 V
|}

{|align="right" border="1"
| colspan=3 | So, the estimated overall voltage range is:
|-
||Min
||Nom
||Max
|-
||126 V
||202 V
||302 V
|}

{{Clear}}

Though, [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/ Hybrid Interfaces] reports a range of 165 to 270V, while Toyota specifies a normal range of 150 to 300 V (in READY mode) (Ref: "\Repair Manual\04priusf\05\21bpm\cidlitac.pdf"). However, Toyota's "normal" ranges, as reported in their repair manuals, are often misleading; either they are too generous, or the conditions under which they can be expected are not clearly stated.

See also [[Toyota Prius Battery Specs]]

====AC components in battery voltage====

When the system relays are off, the battery floats with respect to the car chassis.

When the system relays are engaged, there is a common AC voltage between the battery terminals and the chassis. Its frequency is 5 KHz. When the engine is charging, its amplitude is 90 Vpp and its shape is a square wave. In EV drive, its amplitude is 100 Vpp and its shape is a combination of 2 square waves, each at 5 KHz, but not synchronized, so that one drifts with respect to the other one. The differential mode voltage is 200 Vdc (or course) plus noise spikes at the edges of the common mode wave, on the order of 10 Vpp.

A PHEV conversion must deal with this significant common noise.

====Reconnecting traction battery====
* While working on the High Voltage section, ensure that the READY light is off and then remove the orange Service Plug on left end of the battery pack
* If you attempt to turn on the car while the orange Service Plug is removed, or the Battery ECU is disconnected, the Prius will generate a fault code (DTC) and light-up the /!\ ''(Red Exclamation in a Triangle)'' symbol on the dashboard, and show a car with an Exclamation point in it on the Multi-Function Display ([[MFD]]).
* To end the fault display
** Turn off the car (READY light OFF)
** Reconnect whatever is disconnected
** Turn on the car
** Drive
** Turn off the car
* Now the DTC is still stored, but at least there is no fault display on the dashboard.

====Resetting after reconnecting the 12 V battery====
After reconnecting the 12 V battery, you must calibrate the "Auto" function of the driver's window. If you don't do this, you can't open or close the window all the way with the Auto switch.
* Open window half-way
* Pull and hold window switch up until window is all the way up, and hold an additional 1 second or more

====Cabling to traction battery====
[[Image:Prius-harness_to_traction_battery.gif|right|Harness to the battery]]
The harness to the traction battery has 3 tails, each with a connector
* To Battery ECU - power, communication, fan control
* To the orange Service Plug - to detect if the Service Plug is fully plugged-in
* To the System Relays - to drive the relays that connect the traction battery to the inverter

[[Image:Prius-Battery_ECU-Pin-out.gif|right|thumb|Pin-out of connector on Battery ECU]]
'''Battery ECU (electronic Control Unit)''' 
Pinout:
* POWER
** Gnd - to chassis
** AM - 12 V, always on, for memory retention
** IGCT - 12 V when the car is in the "READY" mode
** IG - 12 V when ignition is on
* COMMUNICATIONS
** CANH - CAN bus High
** CANL - CAN bus Low
* BLOWER
** VM - monitors fan voltage, 2 to 12 V
** SI - variable duty cycle (PWM) square wave to control fan speed
** FCTL1 - drives the relay which in turn powers the fan

'''Service Plug disconnect/connect sensor.''' 
A simple reed switch, which is integrated into the 2004-up Prius service plug, is opened during the service plug removal sequence, just BEFORE the service plug opens the battery circuit. Upon re-installation, the switch is closed (shorted) just AFTER the service plug completes the circuit. Two pins connect the reed switch to the battery ECU. The purpose of this switch is to tell the battery ECU that the service plug is being removed, so that the system main relays can be opened prior to disconnecting the battery in the event that the service plug is inadvertently being removed while the system is in READY mode. Toyota warns that the HV ECU can be damaged if the power switch is engaged with the service plug disconnected.

NOTE: If the service plug in not firmly pushed down after insertion, the switch will not close, the system will not ready up, and a DTC will be set. This is a common oversight.

The service plug disconnect/connect sensor is a failsafe that prevents arcing at the service plug. It is not present on the service plug used in 1997-2003 Prius vehicles, but is integrated into the receptacle for the plug.

'''System Relays''' 
Four pins:
* Common
* System relay K1 (precharge resistor)
* System relay K2 (traction pack +, bypassing precharge resistor)
* System relay K3 (traction pack -)

==== System Relays ====

Toyota refers to this assembly as an SMR (System Main Relay). In truth, there are three separate System Main Relays, housed in the drivers' side end of the battery pack enclosure:
* a precharge relay in series with a precharge resistor
* 2 contactors, one on the positive circuit and one on the negative circuit.

The system relays (contactors) are turned on in this sequence:

[[Image:PriusContactorSequence.gif]]

At power up:
* The precharge relay is turned on first by itself (which results in no current, because there is no return path), and then turned off. This function checks for a stuck relay on the negative side. If that relay was stuck, current would be present. The HV ECU would then record a DTC before shutting itself down. The DTC would have to be cleared and the problem corrected before the vehicle will re-enter READY status.
* After a pause, the precharge relay and the negative contactors are turned on, to precharge the electronics in the vehicle slowly, through the system resistor.
* Then the positive contactor is turned on, to complete a direct path between the battery and the vehicle electronics.
* Then the precharge relay is turned off.

At power down:
* The positive contactor is turned off, removing power to the vehicle electronics. This is the only time when arcing may occur. Arcing on its contacts will affect its lifetime.
* Then the negative contactor is turned off.

There is a hump in the waveforms, as the voltage goes from 10 V to 12 V. This is probably due to the DC-DC converter (from the traction battery voltage to the 12 V battery) being on.

===CAN bus===
If the conversion will replace the stock Battery ECU, it must talk directly with the vehicle CAN bus.

* [http://www.kvaser.com/can/protocol/index.htm Kvaser] has a simple explanation of the CAN bus.
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus wikipedia article on the CAN bus]

====CAN Tools====
* [[CAN-View]] - uses the vehicle's MFD (Multi Function Display). V1, V2, and V3 are only compatible with the 2004 and 2005 Prius. A new V4 will be compatible with the 2006+ Prius and perhaps other hybrid models.

* A generic adapter between the CAN-bus and a PC. It is convenient to use a USB port, though the serial or parallel or Ethernet port may be used as well. Examples of USB adapters:
** [http://www.peak-system.com/db/gb/pcanusb_gb.html Peak's PCAN-USB] also sold as the [http://www.c-a-n.com/canusb.html?source=goog&kw=can+usb&gclid=CJLw2ZGH-IUCFQmMCwodIHRbtw GridConnect's GC-CAN-USB]
*** Note: disconnecting this product's USB cable seems to create significant problems for Windows XP (immediate shut-down, or even the "blue screen of death"). You must use the system tray's "Remove hardware" icon first.
*** The PCAN-View software comes free with this product. In theory, it can filter a range of message IDs. In reality, that doesn't work so well if you're filtering more than one ID. However, you can run multiple instances of PCAN-View, each using a different filter, one for each message that interests you.
** [http://www.grifo.com/VARIE/Candip/uk_canUSB.htm Grifo's CANUSB]
** [http://www.systec-electronic.com/html/index.pl/en_product_usb_canmodul Systec's USB-CANmodul]
** [http://www.can232.com/ CAN232] is a CAN to RS232 device used by [http://www.vassfamily.net/ToyotaPrius/CAN/cindex.html Attila Vass] with his early [[Prius PHEV User Interfaces#My CAN Project|My CAN Project]].
*** Communications with CAN232 via a terminal application:
**** send "V" command. You'll see "V1220" version info received.
**** send "N" command. You'll see "NB743" serial number.
**** send "X1" command to enable AutoPoll function.
**** send "S6" command to set 500 kbps CAN speed.
**** send "O" command to open the CAN port. You'll see a lot of CAN messages.
** The '''CAN-View''' should not be confused with this [http://www.rmcan.com/index.php?id=61&L=1 CANview] product (notice no dash in the name), which is a CAN to RS232 device.
* These adapters have a DE-9 DSUB connector, so you'll also need an adapter to the Prius' OBD connector. For example:
** [http://www.c-a-n.com/gc-can-cab-odb2.html GridConnect's CAN to OBD2 Cable]
* The Prius' OBD (On Board Diagnostics) connector is located under the dashboard, below and to the right of the steering wheel, facing down. A.k.a.: Data Link Connector 3 (DLC3)
*Alternatively, tap into the CAN bus directly. Use a short cable to the CAN adapter.
** CANH - black wire
** CANL - white wire
** GND - chassis

====CAN bus protocol====

* The CAN bus is active only when the vehicle is in READY mode, and for a few seconds after the end of the READY mode.
* baud rate: 500 kbits/s (if you use the wrong rate, the vehicle will complain and store a DTC fault until the DTC codes are cleared)
* Standard: CAN 2.0A ("standard CAN", 11-bit identifier)
* Remote frames: not used
** this means all the data are volunteered and none are requested; that is, that every component on the vehicle broadcasts its data periodically; no component puts out requests for data

====Battery ECU messages====
The Battery ECU (Electronic Control Unit) broadcasts messages to the rest of the vehicle through the CAN bus.

It appears that broadcasting those messages is all the Battery ECU is expected to do. It appears that this ECU only needs to talk, and doesn't need to listen. That is, it doesn't appear that it is expected to do anything about any messages that are placed on the bus by other devices.

The battery ECU is able to protect itself by stating the maximum current it may accept or may provide. It may also protect itself by generating a Fault Code (DTC). In either case, the battery module is at the mercy of the rest of the vehicle to respect those requests and not draw or source too much current.

(Thanks to [http://www.vassfamily.net/ Attila Vass] for pointing to the right [http://www.vassfamily.net/ToyotaPrius/CAN/PriusCodes.xls codes]). Thanks to Jim Fell for coming up with the checksum algorithm first.

The following data were seen in a 2006 Prius.

The Battery ECU (Electronic Control Unit) broadcasts the following messages. In this table, numbers in parentesis (#) refer to the notes just below the table.

{| cellspacing=0 cellpadding=3 border=1
|-
|'''ID (hex)'''
|'''Period [ms] [[#1 | (1)]]'''
|'''No of data bytes'''
|'''byte 0'''
|'''byte 1'''
|'''byte 2'''
|'''byte 3'''
|'''byte 4'''
|'''byte 5'''
|'''byte 6'''
|'''byte 7'''

|-
|03Bh
|8
|5
|colspan=2 | Current [[#2 | (2)]]
|colspan=2 | Voltage [[#3 | (3)]]
|ChkSum[[#4 | (4)]]
|colspan=3 bgcolor="gray"|

|-
|3C9h
|100
|8
|X [[#12 | (12)]]
|X [[#12 | (12)]]
|X [[#12 | (12)]]
|X [[#12 | (12)]]
|X [[#12 | (12)]]
|X [[#12 | (12)]]
|X [[#12 | (12)]]
|ChkSum[[#4 | (4)]]

|-
|3CBh
|100
|7
|CDL [[#5 | (5)]]
|CCL [[#6 | (6)]]
|ΔSOC? [[#11 | (11)]]
|SOC [[#7 | (7)]]
|temp1 [[#8 | (8)]]
|temp2 [[#9 | (9)]]
|ChkSum[[#4 | (4)]]
| bgcolor="gray" |

|-
|3CDh
|100
|5
|colspan=2 |fault code [[#10 | (10)]]
|colspan=2 | Voltage [[#3 | (3)]]
|ChkSum[[#4 | (4)]]
|colspan=3 bgcolor="gray"|

|-
|4D1h
|1060
|8
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]
|X [[#13 | (13)]]

|}

Notes:
*h = hex value; d = decimal value; b = binary value;
* A.V.: Attila Vaas ([http://www.vassfamily.net/ Attila Vass]) believes...; D'de: Davide ([[Hybrids-Plus]]) believes...
 
1) How often this message is repeated
 
2) Pack current: 12-bit, signed (>0 = discharge, <0 = charge) [0.1 A], -256 to 254 A. Examples:
* 0F80h = -128d = charging at 12.8 Amps
* 0000h = 0d= no pack current
* 0080h = 128d = discharging at 12.8 Amps
3) Pack voltage: 16-bit, unsigned [V], 0 to 510 V. Note that 2 different messages have this data, though the 2 values can be off by 1 LSB. Examples:
* 00DCh = 220d = 220 Volts
* 0100h = 256d = 256 Volts
4) CheckSum: used to check for errors in the data. [[http://www.hybrids-plus.com/xls/PriusCAN_CheckSum.xls Details]] (xls)
Calculated as follows:
# Add the message ID (low byte plus high byte), the individual data bytes (other than the check-sum itself) and the number of data bytes
# Take the mod 256 of that (that is, drop the high byte)
5) Maximum discharging current that the pack can handle: 8-bit unsigned, [A]. A.k.a.: CDL (Current Discharge Limit). From that and the pack voltage, the maximum dicharging power (WOUT) is calculated and reported in the Diagnostics Tool (Typically <= 21 kW). The battery reduces this value at cold temperatures (at around 5 C it is down to around 60A) and low SOC. Range seen: 46 to 105 Example:
* 69h = 105d = 105 Amps -> 21 kW @ 200 V
6) Maximum charging current that the pack can handle: 8-bit unsigned, [A]. A.k.a.: CCL (Current Charge Limit). From that and the pack voltage, the maximum charging power (WIN) is calculated and reported in the Diagnostics Tool (Typically <= 25 kW). The battery reduces this value at high SOC. Example:
* 7Ah = 122d = 122 Amps -> 24.4 kW @ 200 V. Range seen: 0 to 125 A, normally 115 A.
7) State of Charge: 8-bit, unsigned [0.5%]. Examples:
* 4Fh = 79d = 39.5 % full (stopped, this is when the motor turns on to start charging the pack)
* 64h = 100d = 50 % full (stopped, this is when the motor turns off after charging the pack)
* B4h = 180d = 90 % full
8) A.V.: Lowest temperature reading of any sensor. 
D'de: Average temperature of the 3 sensors inside the battery. 8-bit signed, [˚C] Example:
* 18h = 26d = 26 ˚C
9) A.V.: Highest temperature reading of any sensor. 
D'de: Temperature of the air intake. 8-bit signed, [˚C]. Reads the same or *lower* than Temp 1, by 0 to 5 ˚C. Example:
* FEh = -2d = -2 ˚C
10) Fault Code (DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code): 16-bit. The 2 Most Significant bits are the type of code (see below). The other 14 bits are the code. See table below for Fault codes. Examples:
* 0560h = 0000 0101 0110 0000b = DTC P0560 = No voltage at the "AM" contact
* 3056h = 0011 0000 0101 0110b = DTC P3056 = Problem with the battery current sensor
* C100h = 1100 0001 0000 0000b = DTC U0100 = No Communication with the Engine Control Module
11) Delta in State of Charge: 8-bit, unsigned [0.5%]. Difference between SOC of most charged block and SOC of least charged block. This is just a guess. Examples:
* 00h = 0d = 0 % = all block are equally charged
* 0Ah = 10d = 5 % = the most charged bloc's SOC is 5 % higher than the least charged block
12) Unknown data. (A.V.: related to release date ?)
Typical values:
D'de
* 01 2A 25 02 99 03 1F
* 01 2B 25 02 99 03 1F
* 01 2C 25 02 99 03 1F
* 01 72 25 02 99 03 1F
* 01 87 21 02 99 03 1F
* 01 D1 25 02 99 03 1F
* 01 D2 25 02 99 03 1F
* 01 D4 27 02 99 03 1F
* 03 FF 21 02 99 03 1F
* 03 FF 25 02 99 03 1F
* 03 FF 21 02 99 03 1F
* 03 FF 05 02 99 03 1F
* 03 FF 25 02 99 03 1F
* 03 FF 01 02 99 03 1F
* 03 FF 29 02 99 03 1F
* 03 FF 25 02 99 03 1F
A.V.:
* 03 FF 21 02 75 02 FA
13) Unknown, unchanging data. (A.V.: Batt -> HECU)
Typical values:
*11 00 01 02 00 00 00 00 (D'de)
*11 00 01 00 00 00 00 00 (A.V.)

It appears that the battery pack also sends the following data, though it's unclear in which messages:

{| cellspacing=0 cellpadding=3 border=1
|-
|VMF FAN VOLTAGE
|Battery blower motor voltage Min.: 0 V, Max.: 25.4 V
|Actuation condition of battery blower motor

|-
|COOLING FAN SPD
|Battery blower motor drive mode Min.: 0, Max.: 6
|Stopped: 0 Low to high speed actuation: 1 to 6

|-
|ECU CTRL MODE
|ECU control mode Min.: 0, Max.: 4
|Operating condition of HV battery

|-
|SBLW RQST
|Battery blower motor stop control request (standby blower)
|Presence of stop control request to battery

|-
|V1 to V14 BATT BLOCK
|Battery block voltage Min.: –327.68 V, Max.: 327.67 V
|Voltage variance among battery blocks

|}

==== Altering the SOC (SOC spoofing) ====

The OEM battery broadcasts a message on the CAN bus approximately every 100ms which includes the [[SOC]]. It has been discovered that the Prius's HV ECU listens to the last message received. Simply rebroadcasting that message immediately after it was originally sent with an altered value for the SOC (and altered checksum), causes the car to believe that the SOC is the altered value without intercepting the original message. This allows a conversion to spoof the SOC in a low cost and simple method which does not require altering the OEM battery's ECU or taps. The agent doing the rebroadcasting can be a computer with a device such as CANUSB or a small embedded system with a CAN interface.

Any system which uses SOC spoofing must be careful not to over discharge or overcharge the OEM battery.

==== CCL and CDL ====

The battery reports Charge and Discharge Current Limits depending on the SOC and the temperature.
Based on very rough data, these graphs show their relationship.
* Note that the Discharge limit remains high even if the SOC is very low.
* The data were taken at a SOC range from 27 to 78 %, and a temperature range from 42 to 56 °C
* The data were taken just at the upper end of the temperatures. We still need data for the colder temperatures.

[[Image:Prius_CCL_graph.gif]]

Current Charge Limit (CCL) [A] versus SOC [%] at various temperatures [°C]

[[Image:Prius_CDL_graph.gif]]

Current Discharge Limit (CDL) [A] versus temperature [°C]

====OBD-II Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)====

The Battery ECU detects and reports many fault conditions.
*The Battery ECU places a Fault Code (DTC) in its message with an ID of 3CDh
*The Engine ECU receives such DTCs (from the Battery ECU and from other devices as well)
*The Engine ECU lights the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) (a.k.a. "Check Engine Lamp") on the dashboard. (In some cases it does so immediately, in some cases after it receives the same DTC twice.)

Fault codes begin with one of four letters, depending of the 2 Most Significant bits (MSb) of the hex code:

*Ltr MSBs
*P 00 Powertrain: Most faults start with this letter
*C 01 Chassis: steering, brakes, other chassis systems. Faults in the transmission control ECU or electric power steering system
*B 10 Body: Smart entry and Immobilizer malfunction. The only DTCs are B1294 and B2799
*U 11 Network: Faults in the CAN network as well as any other networks (The Hybrid Control System cannot communicate with other components on the CAN bus0

All OBD-II diagnostic codes have five digits.

The first digit in an OBD-II DTC is always a letter, narrowing the fault to one of four different sections of the on-board diagnostic system: a P for powertrain, B for body, C for chassis, or U for network. At present, no other letters are used.

The second digit will be a number; SAE-defined codes, known as generic codes, are identified by a 0 (as above), 2, or 3. Manufacturer-specific codes, which are not defined by SAE, must use a 1 for the second digit. They can mean anything within the system defined by the first digit of the DTC.

When a Prius sets a DTC, it also sets a proprietary three-digit diagnostic code that sometimes gives a bit more information. This is typically accessed with a factory scanner.

====HV Battery Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)====

The battery ECU may generate the following Fault Codes (DTCs = Diagnostic Trouble Codes).

{| cellspacing=0 cellpadding=3 border=1
|-
|'''Code (hex)'''
|'''Cause'''
|'''Note'''

|-
|P0560
|There's no voltage at the "AM" contact of the battery ECU (it should be 12 V at all times)
|(1)

|-
|P0A1F
|Battery ECU is bad (many possible symptoms)
|(2)

|-
|P0A7F
|One of the blocks in the battery pack has deteriorated: its dynamic resistance is too high
|(1)

|-
|P0A80
|The difference in voltage between 2 of the blocks in the battery pack is too high
|(1)

|-
|P0A81 P0A82 P0A85
|The fan cooling the battery pack has problems (motor voltage or expected battery temperature)
|(1)

|-
|P0A95
|Battery pack's fuse is blown (the Service Plug is still plugged in)
|(3)

|-
|P0A9B
|One of the temperature sensors in the battery pack is opened or shorted
|(1)

|-
|P0AAC
|The temperature sensors in the air intake is opened or shorted
|(1)

|-
|P30xx
|Battery block xx - 10 is weak
|(2)(4)

|-
|P3030
|One or more of the wires between the Battery ECU and the battery blocks is disconnected
|(1)

|-
|P3056
|There's a problem with the battery current sensor
|(1)

|}

Notes:
# Behavior: lets the vehicle go into the READY mode and drive normally
# Behavior: lets the vehicle go into the READY mode but limits driving to fail-safe mode
# Behavior: if the engine happened to be on at the time, the vehicle remains in the READY mode and continues driving with just the engine; if the engine happened to be off at the time, without a battery it can't be started, so the vehicle turns off the READY mode and stops
# There are 14 blocks in the battery pack (1 through 14); the last 2 digits of the code are the equal to the number of the bad block plus 10; so, if block 1 is bad, the code is P3011, if block 12 is bad, the code is P3022

===Causes for errors===
The Prius doesn't like the following:
* Actual battery voltage at 175 V or less (regardless of what you tell it the voltage is). Or, telling the car that the battery voltage is much higher than it really is (say, the battery is 170 V, but you tell it it's 200 V)
** A fault is generated, car dies
** Clear the faults, tell it the right voltage, and all will be fine
* Telling the car that the battery is at 80 % SOC or more
** Engine runs all the time, drawing current from the battery (about 9 A) to discharge it
* Resistance from HV- or HV+ to chassis ground less than around 10M

===MFD (Multi Function Display)===

====State Of Charge display====
In the Energy screen, the state of charge of the battery is shown with 8 bars. The following graph shows the relationship between the SOC reported by the battery ECU and the number of bars shown. There is a hysteresis of 2.5 % (usually), and filtering with a time constant of about 15 seconds (just on the display - the HEV ECU reacts immediately to changes in SOC).
:[[Image:StateOfChargeBars.gif]]
::''More SOC images available at [[Toyota Prius Battery Specs]].''

==Limit to continuous EV operation==
The Prius relies on the engine running for distribution of lubricant oil on the gears of the CTV (Continuously Variable Transmission). As its stock EV-only operation is limited to at most a couple of miles, after which the engine must run, it ensures that lubrication happens on a regular basis. Which leads to concerns that in a plug-in converted Prius, the larger battery allows longer EV-only operation, without lubrication. Implying that therefore, a plug-in conversion must ensure that it causes the Prius to restart the engine every few miles, then return to EV operation.

However upon further examination it should be noted that in EV-only mode all motive torque is provided by MG2 and thus not transmitted through the CVT or ''PSD (Power Split Device)'' which might more accurately be referred to as a [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Prius_Technical_Stuff/message/15705 TSD (Torque Split Device)]. There was a related thread implying that lubrication, while not actively circulated without the ICE running, is still present yet not as critical during EV-only mode. A number of converted PHEV Prius are operating in EV-only mode for extended distances of 10 to 30 or more miles without any adverse effects to the CVT, but we will be sure to update this section should that change in the future.

{{Disclaimer}}

[[Category:PHEV]]
[[Category:Prius]]
[[Category:Prius PHEV]]
[[Category:Hybrids-Plus]]

PriusPlus

2007-09-04T03:52:16Z

Cewert: About section

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
We'd like discussion of this page to happen here on this page’s Discussion tab and general discussion of the conversion to occur on the [[Maillist|eaa-phev maillist]].

==About the PriusPlus Project==
The PriusPlus project is an open source project setup to develop a method to convert a '04-'07 Toyota Prius into a Plug-in Hybrid. The project is a combination of hardware and software development to allow qualified individuals or individuals working with a qualified electrician to convert their own car to a [[PHEV]].

==Current Status==
While the documentation is not yet as through as would be desired, the necessary information is available to complete a conversion. Please use the links above to navigate to the various documentation pages. Many photos are available on the RawData page.

See this 2007 08 01 maillist post for the [[User:Rgremban/2007 08 01-PriusPlus Project Update|Latest News]].
If you are interested in helping improve the documentation, please contact Chris Ewert (chris at infolaunch.com)

Another avid Prius enthusiast named Cheap! is currently in the process of his own conversion using CalCars PriusPlus processes and documenting his progress at [http://priuschat.com/My-official-Prius-Plus-mods-thread-t26951.html priuschat].

==Overview==
{{TOCright}}

The PriusPlus conversion retains the OEM hybrid battery and its management computer while adding a lead-acid pack consisting of 20 BB Battery EVP20-12B 12V, 20 Amp-hour sealed AGM PbA batteries. PbA battery chemistry is very inexpensive but leads to significant limitations (see below). However, with this relatively inexpensive conversion (as little as $4000 parts cost, including the battery) you can be the first in your community to actually own and drive a plug-in hybrid, and you can achieve 100+ mpg (plus electricity) for 15-20 miles/day!

Though we are using the best and most cost-effective PbA modules we could find, a PbA PHEV is neither economically nor operationally up to par. But as of now, it is the only relatively inexpensive way to own and drive a real PHEV. More advanced batteries are on the way and may well be available by the time (1-2 years from now) the PbA battery needs replacement (see below for specifics.)

Below is a fairly comprehensive list of our public domain PbA Prius conversion’s advantages, operating and mechanical characteristics, and limitations:

===Advantages===
*Detailed instructions for easy installation by anyone trained in high-voltage safety
*Pure electric propulsion at up to 34 mph for up to 10-12 miles per charge
*Lower gasoline use at all speeds until the PHEV battery is depleted
*Displacement of gasoline:
**at an equivalent energy cost of less than $1.00/gallon (at up to $0.09/kWh), possibly using low-cost nighttime electricity if your utility provides optional time-of-use metering
**with renewable electricity, if you have solar panels on your home or specifically buy electricity from renewable sources
*No modification of the Prius’ hybrid propulsion system, for uncompromised vehicle reliability
*Several selectable text and graphics display screens for real-time observation of hybrid system and PHEV parameters
*A pull-out power cord that plugs into any standard U.S. 15A, 120VAC outlet or a mounted bumper inlet
*An interlock to prevent driving away while the battery charger is still plugged into a live electrical outlet

===Prius-forced limitations===
*This conversion will no doubt void parts of Toyota’s warranty. U.S. law prohibits aftermarket modifications from voiding any part of a vehicle’s warranty except for problems specifically caused by the modification. If repair of the OEM battery, transaxle, or other parts of the hybrid system becomes necessary, Toyota may argue that the PHEV modification has caused the problem. The outcome is uncertain, see also our [[Warranty]] article.
*EV-only mode (which inhibits ICE operation) works only up to 34 mph, 120A of power (modest acceleration), and a few more obscure limits
*The conversion’s data display can share the vehicle’s multifunction display screen only in 2004-5 Prii; later models require an additional display screen (optional on 2004-5 Prii).
*When the Prius starts the ICE for the first time after being turned on, the ICE must warm up for several minutes before EV mode can be re-entered. This process burns more fuel than normal.
*The charge / discharge limits are affected by the temperature of the OEM battery.

===PbA limitations===
*The conversion adds 300+ lbs to the vehicle’s weight to provide 10 miles of electric range per charge (16.7 usable Wh/kg)
**Though I have safely driven 17,000 miles in my converted Prius, the added weight could possibly cause vehicle instability during driving, and the battery may modify the effectiveness of the vehicle’s rear crush zone.
**Existing conversions sit 1-2 inches low in the rear. Air shocks or heaver-duty rear springs would be nice, but have not yet been developed.
**Though there are indications that improved hybrid efficiency due to a lower combined internal resistance of the two-battery combination at least partially compensates for the added weight, city gasoline mileage is otherwise reduced by up to 10%.
*Operating costs are high due to an expected cycle life of only 300-400 deep cycles, providing only one to two years of daily driving (at 400 cycles, 10 electric miles per 2.1 kWh cycle, and $800/pack, battery cost is $0.95/kWh throughput or $0.20/electric-mile (in addition to the cost of electricity, usually 2-4 cents/mile depending on utility rates).
*For decent battery life, the battery must always be charged within a day of discharge, making charging a required rather than optional operation (if planning to drive to somewhere without access to electricity, temporarily turn off PHEV operation).
*PbA batteries perform very poorly in cold weather. Though our design includes a thermally insulated battery pack, heated during charging, this feature has been insufficiently tested due to moderate California temperatures during development.

===Safety===
*Potentially lethal voltages are involved. It is important for the high-voltage wiring to be done by an electrician or an engineer experienced with high-voltage safety.
**Once the conversion is complete, all high voltages are inside screw- or bolt-secured areas, but these areas are exposed during parts of the conversion process, during battery replacement and other servicing, and possibly after a crash.
**In keeping with hybrid automotive standards, high voltage cabling is labeled with orange (as #4 gauge and larger orange wire is not readily available, we specify the addition of orange shrink-wrap at each end)
*This design should be adequate to contain the batteries in any normal driving conditions, but extreme or off-road maneuvers could damage the installation, potentially causing a hazard.
*More importantly, though we believe the parts are well-secured, we are not automotive design engineers, the design has not been crash-tested, and its characteristics during and after a crash are unknown. In particular, it is uncertain whether the battery box would remain intact and in place during a roll-over incident.
**PbA modules could tear out of their brackets and fly around the passenger compartment
**Though these AGM PbA modules are not flooded, they could leak acid if crushed.
**Short circuits could arise, causing sparks, hot, molten metal, and possibly igniting a fire.
**The battery pack may modify the characteristics of the vehicle’s rear crush zone.

===Operational characteristics===
*Entry into EV-only mode is automated. Manual entry is also available. Due to a complex interaction with Toyota’s battery management computer, EV-only mode is unavailable for a short distance (usually less than ½ block) after slowing down from highway speeds.
*The paralleling of the PHEV battery to the OEM battery is switched on and off as needed. Occupants will hear the contactor periodically doing this, but will not directly feel any effects from it.
*When the PHEV battery is fully charged, EV-only mode can be sustained up a steep, extended hill at maximum allowable EV-only power (100-120A). At lower states of charge, the voltage may fall, causing the engine to start.
*When going down a long hill at low PHEV battery SOC, some regenerative current does flow back into the PHEV battery. This effect, however, is not as large as would be desirable.
*The Prius’ hybrid system allows EV-only mode only when the OEM battery temperature is below 107 deg F, but non-EV-only maximum battery temperature is enough higher that Toyota’s battery cooling system does not work hard to avoid exceeding 107 degrees. The conversion modifies this system so that the fan comes on at full speed whenever OEM battery temperature is above approximately 90 deg F. This almost always keeps OEM battery temperature within EV-only range, but is somewhat noisy.

===Other characteristics===
*It will probably be helpful at various points to refer to specific Prius Service Manual<ref>awaiting url to Prius Service Manual website.</ref> pages, available for download by paying Toyota $10/day for access (only one day is needed).
*The mechanical design is sturdy and simple. It should be easy for anyone mechanically inclined to build; even more so if and when various prefabricated parts become available.
*This conversion includes a simple and inexpensive insulated battery box that is both air-cooled when necessary and heated as needed, but only during charging.
**The thermostatically-controlled cooling fans need only run at high ambient temperatures, to keep battery temperatures below 120 deg F. However, they are also run during non-heated charging to ensure any venting of the modules is flushed to outside the passenger compartment.
*PbA batteries have increasingly poor operating characteristics at low temperatures, starting around 55 deg F. We thermally insulate and heat them to retain their usefulness down to lower ambient temperatures. An advantage of retaining the OEM battery for normal hybrid operation is that poor PbA cold-weather performance affects only PHEV, not normal hybrid, operation.
**Since we have not come up with a scheme to heat the battery pack from waste engine heat, and electric heating from the battery would be unproductive, we heat electrically only during charging. This should keep the battery pack sufficiently warm for effective charging and for several hours thereafter in most climates. The system has not been sufficiently tested, however, due to very moderate California weather during development.
**Heating is accomplished via ordinary drugstore electric heating pads, thermostatically controlled via a thermistor and powered by the AC line during charging. They consume about 100 watts when in use, so overnight heating can add 1 kWh, or around 25%, to cold-weather electricity consumption.

===Planned Enhancements/Options===
*A new version of the logic board has been designed, as much as possible, to accomodate a DC:DC converter such as the Manzanita Micro PFC-40, various battery chemistries, various separate PHEV battery management systems (BMS), and digital data acquisition.
*[http://manzanitamicro.com Manzanita Micro] is designing a [[PiPrius]] PHEV conversion kit for sale, using a lower-voltage pack of larger PbA batteries and their [http://manzanitamicro.com/chargers3.htm PFC-40 charger] as both a charger and DC:DC converter between batteries. It is our intention to develop a version of this conversion that uses the PFC-40 in the same ways. It will probably require the next version of our logic board, and will have the following relative characteristics:
**Advantages
***Lower peak currents in both batteries, due to a 40A current limit between them
***Increased regenerative braking back into the PHEV battery, mainly valuable during extended downhill grades
***Possibly slightly longer EV range, due to the above advantages
***A range of PHEV battery voltages can be accommodated.
***Various battery chemistries can be used and accurately kept within their specifications by the required battery management system (BMS).
***Because the PHEV battery must have a BMS, it is possible to more carefully control its minimum state-of-charge (SOC), thereby more carefully trading off useful capacity vs. cycle life.
**Disadvantages
***During charge, the battery pack is not isolated from input power. This means extra care must be taken to electrically insulate the battery pack from the vehicle chassis, the hybrid system, and all possible human contact points.
***The batteries are not kept in parallel during post-PHEV hybrid operations, possibly limiting hybrid efficiency to that of an unmodified Prius. More complex PFC-40 switching may minimize or eliminate this effect.
***Unless voltage minima and maxima turn out to be sufficient cues, a battery management system (BMS), including reasonably accurate state-of-charge (SOC) measurement, will be required to maintain SOC limits.

===Advanced batteries===
*More advanced batteries may be retrofittable to the conversion. This will probably require upgrading to CalCars’ not-yet-designed next version of logic board, and will also probably require additional battery management electronics. Any new battery’s enclosure, mounting, and thermal management system will no doubt also be very different.

Possible future batteries and their likely characteristics (incl. low-volume pricing):

Example pack
{| border=1 cellpadding=2 |
| Chemistry || || Usable Wh/kg || Cycle life || Yr daily driving || $/usable kWh || $/kWh thruput || Cents/ EV-mi || kWh || $ || EV mi || Wt, lb
|-
| PbA (current) || || 16 || 400 || 1.1 || $380 || $0.95 || 20.0 || 2.1 || $ 798 || 10 || 289
|-
| NiMH || worst || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $1,200 || $0.60 || 12.6 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiMH || best || 36 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 4.2 || $3,360 || 20 || 257
|-
| Li-ion || worst || 56 || 1000 || 2.7 || $1,200 || $1.20 || 25.2 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 165
|-
| Li-ion || best || 100 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 6.3 || $5,040 || 30 || 139
|-
| NiZn || worst || 36 || 500 || 1.4 || $500 || $1.00 || 21.0 || 4.2 || $2,100 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiZn || best || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $350 || $0.18 || 3.7 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || worst || 36 || 1000 || 2.7 || $350 || $0.35 || 7.4 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || best || 45 || 4000 || 11.0 || $250 || $0.06 || 1.3 || 5.25 || $1,313 || 25 || 257
|}

Note that figures are for usable, not total, capacity in kWh (usually 80%, but much less for the current PbA pack (4.8 kWh total capacity), due to Peukert’s Law).

===Parts availability===
All parts are off-the-shelf with the following exceptions:
*the logic board
**Once we know demand, we will order a bunch fabricated. Post-fabrication rework is also required due to major architectural changes since its inception.
**A reworked, stuffed, and fully-tested form of this board may be made available at some point. If so, it will probably cost hundreds of dollars and save 20-40 hours of parts purchase, identification, stuffing, soldering, and testing.
**We do plan to redesign this board in the future, using IC logic, a PLA, and/or a microcontroller. The new version will probably be required for eventual upgrade of a conversion to use a more advanced battery pack.
*a version of [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca CAN-View] with relays to control the conversion. 2006+ Prii require a version capable of driving an add-on touch-screen; this should be available by the time anyone needs it.
*a charger designed for the PbA battery pack. Three options are planned:
**a Delta-q charger (http://www.delta-q.com) designed for the PbA battery pack, at a projected price of $800. We are in discussions with the company and will soon know if/when pre-production units will be available; UL-approved units are likely to be available in 2007.
**the Brusa NLG503 charger, available through http://www.metricmind.com/index1.htm for $2650 retail including cables (a group rate is possible). Users can reprogram this charger for other voltages and battery chemistries, so it would be a good purchase for developers anticipating an eventual high-tech replacement battery.
**(eventually) the Manzanita Micro PFC-40 charger, available through http://manzanitamicro.com for around $2000. This charger has programmable but less sophisticated charging algorithms, but can also double as a high-power DC:DC converter between the battery packs. Its output is ''not'' line isolated. Its incorporation will require modifications/enhancements of this conversion, and control circuitry and algorithms that have not yet been developed.
*mechanical parts that require fabrication from off-the-shelf pieces such as angle aluminum and sheets of ABS, plexiglass, and/or lexan (polycarbonate)
**Some of these parts may eventually become available prefabricated.
*We, or some other suppler or affiliate, may offer various components to speed and simplify the conversion. We’re interested (see the [[Conversion Interest]] page) in knowing how much interest there is for pre-assembled (or at least pre-cut) components, at a higher cost than fabrication via you own free labor but no doubt lower than what you would have to pay a fabricator.

The table below outlines approximate component costs, as well as estimated labor costs for component fabrication or assembly. A range is given, as the number of components made and where they are done has a great bearing on the final cost. We are not fabricators, professional assemblers, or product retailers, so these are guesses as to what a for-profit company or craftsman would charge. If a great number of kits or components are desired, offshore fabricators may beat these estimates by a lot.

''Please answer the new questions for our information-gathering at the [[Conversion Interest]] page.''

::{| border=1 cellpadding=2 |
| colspan=2 |
Estimated Fabrication Costs
|-
| Assembled and tested circuit board || $250-500
|-
| Battery tray (4 needed) || $150-250
|-
| Battery box top || $150-200
|-
| Battery box foundation || $150-200
|-
| Electronics tray, assembled and wired || $500-1K
|-
| Set of pre-built battery cables || $150-200
|-
| Pre-built low-power wiring harness || $150-300
|-
| Total (including 4 trays) || $1950-2500
|}
These are estimates for the labor only; approximate components costs are below.

:::{| border=1 cellpadding=2 |
| Est. Component Costs || Min || Max
|-
| Battery set (20 + 2 spares) || 900 || 1100
|-
| Battery wire & lugs || 100 || 150
|-
| Heating pads & insulation || 100 || 100
|-
| CAN-View || 600 || 600
|-
| Display (opt for 2004-5 Prii) || 0 || 200
|-
| Charger (Delta-q or Brusa) || 800 || 2500
|-
| Cord reel & base, brackets || 100 ||100
|-
| Contactors (3) || 240 || 330
|-
| Fuses & holders 60 A (2) || 100 || 150
|-
| Fans (3) || 60 || 120
|-
| All metal & plastic || 200 || 300
|-
| Circuit board || 100 || 100
|-
| Circuit board components || 200 || 300
|-
| Connectors || 200 || 300
|-
| Misc. electronics || 150 || 200
|-
| Total || 3850 || 6550
|}

==History==
For reference and posterity sake, the previous incarnation of Ron's original conversion at [[PriusPlus History]].

{{Disclaimer}}

===References===
<references/>

[[Category:PHEV]]
[[Category:Prius]]
[[Category:Prius PHEV]]
[[Category:PriusPlus]]
[[Category:CalCars]]

Talk:PriusPlus-Instructions

2007-07-14T14:52:12Z

Cewert: /* Medium Priority */ Todos

=Target outline (subject to change):=
* An brief overview of the conversion, link to the main PriusPlus page for more in depth info
* Perhaps a "preview" of what they will be doing (maybe something similar to this outline?)

* Making decisions before starting the conversion
** Choosing a mounting method (done)
** Choosing the charger (list options - currently ZiVan NG3, DeltaQ (not available), Brusa, ManzitaMicro)
** Bumper inlet vs. mounted cord reel [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/eaa-phev/message/709 maillist discussion]

* Install CAN-View (first because it really helps in understanding how the Prius works)

* Building sub components
** Battery trays
** Battery box supports
** Battery box top
** Electronics tray / box
*** Mechanical construction of tray / box
*** Control board assembly
*** LED board assembly
*** Internal electronics tray/box wiring (yet to be written - though schematics exist)
** Charger mounting brackets (yet to be written)

Perhaps a page break here in the future after things get solidified more?

* Installation into the Prius (the intent is that any prep work can be done before this point, so this step (which involves tearing apart the Prius) takes as little time as possible.)
** Remove the really basic stuff (the false floor, spare tire, storage bin)
** Route the EV mode wire and CAN-View cable to the trunk area
** Install charger / electronics box (for alt. mounting method) and related interconnect wiring
** Install 120v outlets / power supply (classic mounting method)
** Install battery box supports (alt. and classic, but different instructions for each)
** Install electronics tray and related interconnects (classic method)
** Dis-assemble the rest of the Prius trunk (instructions are written already on mechanical page)
** Do the OEM battery fan wiring modification (same for both, length of wire to control board is the only difference)
** Do the OEM battery tie in and tap the "READY" wire (requires disassembling the OEM battery, running HV wire - most of this already written)
** Re-assemble the Prius trunk.
** Tap into the 12v. accessory battery
** install & wire batteries and put on the battery box top (this needs to be one fluid step - it isn't safe to drive the car while the batteries are loose.)
** First, basic test of system - (yet to be written, but we have a lot of emails that could be translated into a paragraph from getting Jim Philippi's car working.)
** Programming CAN-View, control board, etc
** Optional - bumper inlet instructions or mounted cord reel.

=Master PriusPlus Todo List=
The priorities are assigned based strictly on how critical they are to somebody being able to actually do a conversion.

==High Priority==
* Finish the HV parts list, move all the parts lists onto the Parts List page and add links from the main step-by-step page to the parts lists where necessary.
* Create diagrams of wiring for the individual connectors coming off the control board
* Verify battery box base mounting / add details needed (classic method)
* Details on mounting the GFCI outlet box in the tire well (classic method)
* Details on mounting & wiring the electronics tray/box components (diagrams are created and on the page already, wiring needs to be addressed)
* Write up battery prep, installation & wiring
** Needs a diagram of how to lay out batteries

==Medium Priority==
* Add copies of all diagrams and schematics to the RawData page
* Details on cutting and assembly of electronics tray plastic (classic PriusPlus method.)
* Write up mounting the DeltaQ charger in the driver's side cubby hole (classic method)
* Go through the documentation and make it a smooth read from start to finish
* Placement of thermistors (photos)
* Write up 120v Heater, Charger, power supply, relays & outlets (and hardwiring option)
* Optional charger isolation relay wiring.
* Details on battery box base mounting for alt. mounting method (Chris)
* Write up assembly of electronics box plastic for alt. mounting method (Chris)

==Low Priority==
* Write up Prius re-assembly instructions.
* Write up mounting the cord reel (someone who has done a Classic conversion.)
* Write up Amp meter mounting (to be listed as optional - very low priority right now)
* Write up diagnostic LEDs board mounting - Use self-tapping screws to mount it to the roof of the tray just inside the glass door under the radio. To run the ribbon cable, open up the dash and run a cable as shown it this diagram [or drill a hole in the back of the tray, at the upper left as you look at it]. (Make and add diagram.)
* V4 Screen mounting (low priority because it can be found elsewhere)
* Explain molex crimping tool?
* Write up snubber creation
* How to crimp PP75's
* Improve (clean up layout) CAN-View/EV mode instructions

* General organization
** Make the DigiKey parts lists more visable
** Sync up the DigiKey parts list with the latest lists that Jim provided (Chris)
** Clean up parts lists, fix photos, etc

PriusPlus-RawData

2007-07-14T14:51:05Z

Cewert: made first attempt at adding reasonable sized thumbnails of schematics (needs more work yet)

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----

This page houses all raw reference materials and other data which have been uploaded to incorporate into documentation on the other pages.

==Schematics==
'''Todo: clean up to make this look better'''
* High Power
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png|400px]]

* Control Board
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|400px]]

[[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].

* LED Board
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|400px]]

[[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].

===Photos===
You can browse the [http://www.eaa-phev.org/index.php?title=Special:Newimages entire gallery] of images here at the eaa-phev site, 
or visit some other galleries with potentially applicable photos:
* [[2007_Maker_Faire#Photos]]
* Inaugural [[Maker_Faire_Photos]]
* [[PiPrius#Photos]]
** [[WhiteBird#Photos]]
** [[GrayPearl#Photos]]

{|
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1183.JPG|thumb|Photo of OEM NiMH battery with case fully removed during [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], which is no longer necessary during current conversions.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1176.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in at the time of the [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], routed out of OEM battery case near service plug.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1442.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in later after [[PiPrius]] conversion, there is an additional unused wire on the neg(-) OEM contactor for use during "Genset mode"]]
|}

====Rons Images====
* Build Team [[:Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg]]
<gallery>
Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg|Build Team Photo with labels
Image:P10370.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10371.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10372.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.

Image:P10363.JPG|The unmodified trunk area.
Image:P10364.JPG|Pair of PVC air vents installed in spare tire well.
Image:P10365.JPG|Mockup of the Electronics housing for wiring and circuit boards.
Image:P10373.JPG|The empty new battery box.

Image:P10374.JPG|Electronics housing and misc parts on top of new battery box, ready for installation.
Image:P10382.JPG|Electronics housing and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10389.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10385.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.

Image:P10386.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10387.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10393.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.
Image:P10394.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.

Image:P10380.JPG|Electronics housing (front).
Image:P10379.JPG|Electronics housing (bottom).
Image:P10377.JPG|Electronics housing (back).
Image:P10376.JPG|Electronics housing (top).

Image:P10366.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10367.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10368.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10369.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.

Image:P10381.JPG|Working on Circuit boards.
Image:P10383.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10384.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10403.JPG|Electronics housing cooling fan flaps.

Image:P10390.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10391.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10395.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10396.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.

Image:P10397.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10398.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10400.JPG|110v breakout quad and 110 to 12v power supply.
Image:P10402.JPG|Ah Meter.

Image:P10405.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10406.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10407.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10408.JPG|Old Electronics Board.

Image:P10404.JPG|Inside corner of battery box top.
Image:P10409.JPG|[[CAN-View]] screen.
</gallery>

====Photos from Chris Ewert's Conversion====
These are photos that [[User:Cewert]] has shared with us of his conversion via the CalCars [[PriusPlus]] method.
<gallery>
Image:Cutting Aluminum.JPG|Cutting the aluminum with a hacksaw
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All the pieces necessary for the battery trays
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|All the parts from the tray laid out
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Set Together Close Up.JPG|Close up of the battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Ready for Jig.JPG|Tray set together, ready for creating "jig"
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Starting to assemble the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|More assembling the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Getting the jig assembled
Image:Almost Finished Tray Jig.JPG|Mostly finished tray jig
Image:Dremel Drill Press.JPG|Dremel drill press used for drilling holes in angle irons
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in the aluminum, then countersunk
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Sample corner finished (done on scrap aluminum)
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
Image:2 Trays with Some Supports.JPG|Experimenting with the support angle irons
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
Image:Fuses and Holders.JPG|Fuses and holders
Image:Fuse in holder.JPG|A fuse in it's holder
Image:Bottom of JTN60060.JPG|Bottom of the fuse holder (for DIN rail mounting)
Image:EV200 Contactor.JPG|The Kilovac EV200 contactor
Image:P1240040.JPG|Battery Box sitting on steel tube
Image:Batt_Box_with_screw_lift_supports.JPG|Battery box sitting on steel tube with second tube for screw lift support
Image:Bracket_on_OEM_Batt_screw.JPG|Alt mounting method: modified hanger bolted into battery box mount
Image:Batt_box_test_fit_forward_design.JPG|Alt mounting method: Test fit of unfinished battery box top in forward location
Image:Charger_in_tirewell.JPG|Charger in tirewell
Image:Welded_angle_iron_1.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Alt_method_support_angle_irons.jpg|Support angle irons
Image:Right_side _battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Right side battery box supports
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Left side battery box supports
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Rubber pad under support angle irons
Image:Entire alt batt box mounting supports.jpg|Entire battery box mounting supports
Image:Electronics box being assembled.jpg|Electronics box being assembled
Image:Electronics Box Partial 1.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box Partial 2.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well.jpg|Installed electronics box and charger
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well 2.jpg|Installed electronics box with top on
Image:HVD1 in electronics box.jpg|Close up of HVD1 installed
Image:Contactors in electronics box.jpg|Close up of contactors installed
Image:Left side of electronics box.jpg|Left side of electronics box
Image:Right side of electronics box.jpg|Right side of electronics box
Image:Fuses in electronics box.jpg|Close up of fuses in electronics box
Image:Zivan NG3 Charger connected.jpg|Close up of ZiVan NG3 charger
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed front.jpg|Unstuffed control board - front
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed back.jpg|Unstuffed control board - back
Image:Batteries being installed 1.jpg|Batteries being installed
Image:Batteries being installed 2.jpg|More batteries
Image:Batt box top modified for alt mounting method.jpg|Battery box top (modified for alt. mounting)
Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|Bolt on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|Removing carpeting from on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|Removing the upright part of the rear seat
Image:OEM battery exposed.jpg|The OEM battery exposed
Image:Opening OEM battery.jpg|Opening the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside OEM battery from back of car.jpg|Inside the OEM battery (unmodified) from rear of car
Image:Inside OEM battery after tie in.jpg|Inside the OEM battery after HV tie-in
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery.jpg|Unmodified OEM battery low voltage wiring
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery modified.jpg|Modified OEM battery low voltage wiring (for charge interlock)


Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

====Photos from 2007 Maker Faire====
Some photos from the [[2007 Maker Faire]] conversion.
<gallery>

Image:Maker Faire 2007 1.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 2.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 3.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 4.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 5.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 6.jpg|


Image:IMG 1171.jpg|The Make Faire team: left to right, Ron Gremban, Jim Bernard, Carolyn Coquillete, Chris Ewert, Walt Ferris , Nick Rothman, Cody Jackson, Robb Protheroe, Tom Driscoll, Felix Kramer, Jim Philippi. Not shown: Randy Reisinger, Ailian Chong, Amanda Kovattana, Marc Geller, Fraser Smith.
Image:IMG 1179.jpg|Outside the building, at the main entrance to Maker Faire, the team posed Ron's car (world's first Prius conversion) and Felix's car (with Valence lithium-ion batteries)
Image:IMG 1154 2.jpg|Applying the vinyl lettering to Jim's car.
Image:IMG 1186.jpg|Securing the battery box frame to the body of the car.
Image:IMG 1187.jpg|The battery box fits above the battery and tilts up to allow access to the spare tire.
Image:IMG 1188.jpg|Last-minute wiring diagrams.
Image:IMG 1190.jpg|Our work-site had crowds all day Saturday and Sunday.
Image:IMG 1205.jpg|Installing components inside the battery box.
Image:IMG 1208.jpg|Custom-made circuit boards included.
Image:IMG 1215.jpg|The team worked late Sunday night to wrap up the project.

</gallery>

===General Reference Materials===
These are some other General Reference Materials we use elsewhere on the site. This is also an example of how to use references within the page text. See [[PiPrius conversion process]] for another example of a page with multiple reference tages.

* Prius Dismantle Manual <ref>[[Media:Priusdisman.pdf]] from http://www.airlabcorp.com/Prius/priusdisman.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:Stereo Accessory Install Guide 04 Prius v1.03.pdf]] from http://www.chrisdragon.com/downloads/Stereo%20Accessory%20Install%20Guide,%2004%20Prius,%20v1.03.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:PriusXMradio3.2.pdf]] from https://www.metrotpn.com/documents/PDF%20Files/Prius/Eddie's%20XMRadio%20Install/PriusXMradio3.2.pdf</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install without Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installNONAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install with Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installWNAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html</ref>

* [[Prius EV Mode Button]] Installation <ref>[[Media:Prius-evbutton-install.pdf]] from http://www.calcars.org/prius-evbutton-install.pdf</ref>

* Factory EV Mode Button <ref>[[Media:FactoryEV.pdf]] from http://www.scubadivervideo.com/Files/factoryEV.pdf</ref>

You should be familiar with these reference materials and standard operating procedures around high voltages.
<references/>

==Intro Editing Help==
===File Specific Help===
File link Examples, click the edit button for this section to see how it works.

====Text Links:====

* Using :Image takes you to the Images description page:
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* Using Media takes you directly to the file:
** [[Media:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* You can use a | to change the text of the link to something more descriptive.
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|Control Board]]

====Inline resized images:====

25px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]], 50px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|50px]], 150px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|150px]],

300px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|300px]]

====Thumbnails:====

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|caption]]

* Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.

{{Clear}} The <nowiki>{{Clear}}</nowiki> template can be used to force empty white space after a thumbnail before continuing with the next block of text.

* A Second Example...
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|left|Small On Left]]
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|Small On Right]]
Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.
'' Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''
''Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''

{{Clear}}

==References==
<references/>

PriusPlus-PartsList

2007-07-14T14:45:30Z

Cewert: added link to template for easier editing

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}

=Parts list=
This page will become a master parts list for the entire PriusPlus project, will contain links to DigiKey's quick order list, and descriptions weighing the pro's and con's of different larger items (for example, chargers, batteries). '''This page is by no means complete yet'''

==High Voltage Parts List==
'''Warning: This list is a very much a work-in-progress!'''

DigiKey parts can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014150 here].
Mating connectors can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014585 here].

Non-DigiKey Parts
{| border=1 cellpadding=4 cellspacing=0 |
| Photo || Qty || Description || Manufacture || Model # || Est. Cost
|-
| [[Image:EV200 Contactor.JPG|50px]] || 2 || Contactor || Kilovac || EV200-AAANA || $85-120/ea
|-
| [[Image:JTN60060 Fuse Holder.JPG|50px]] || 2 || Finger safe fuse holder || Bussman || JT60060 || $28/ea
|-
| [[Image:LPJ-60SP.JPG|50px]] || 2 || 60 amp 300 VDC fuse || Bussman || LPJ-60SP || $22/ea
|-
| [[Image:PP75 Connectors.jpg|50px]] || 4 || Black 75 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP75 || ~$2.00/ea
|-
| [[Image:PP75 Connectors.jpg|50px]] || 4 || Red 75 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP75 || ~$2.00/ea
|-
| [[Image:PP75 Connectors.jpg|50px]] || 8+ || 8AWG crimps for PP75 || Anderson || PP75 || $/ea
|-
| || 6 || Red 15 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 6 || Black 15 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 6 || Green 15 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 2 || White 15 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 2 || Yellow 15 amp connector housings|| Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 22+ || ? AWG crimps for PP15 || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 3 || 12v Fans 120mm (>100CFM airflow) || || || $10-15/ea
|-
|}

DigiKey Parts List
{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HVPartsList}}

==Control Board Parts List==
'''A few issues have been found with the posted version of the control board schematics. The new version will be posted shortly, but the parts list is expected to change quite a bit.'''
[http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014148 here]

{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList}}

==LED Board Parts List==
'''A few issues have been found with the posted version of the control board schematics. The new version will be posted shortly, but the parts list is expected to change a bit.'''
The public DigiKey parts list for the LED board can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014149 here]
{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdPartsList}}

==Edit Instructions==
To make changes to the parts list templates above, visit the following template:
[[Template:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList]] use ''<nowiki>{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList}}</nowiki>'' to include in a page.

PriusPlus-RawData

2007-07-14T14:37:17Z

Cewert: /* Older PriusPlus Images */ rm'd (no photos there, not really relevant)

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----

This page houses all raw reference materials and other data which have been uploaded to incorporate into documentation on the other pages.

==Files==
Here are the files that are available thus far.

===Schematics===
* High Power [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png|25px]]
* Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip]] exported parts list from schematic in Excel format, also includes LED Board.
** [[Template:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList]] use ''<nowiki>{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList}}</nowiki>'' to include in a page.
* LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** LED Board '''Now combined into [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip|ControlBdPartsList.zip]] above.'''

===Photos===
You can browse the [http://www.eaa-phev.org/index.php?title=Special:Newimages entire gallery] of images here at the eaa-phev site, 
or visit some other galleries with potentially applicable photos:
* [[2007_Maker_Faire#Photos]]
* Inaugural [[Maker_Faire_Photos]]
* [[PiPrius#Photos]]
** [[WhiteBird#Photos]]
** [[GrayPearl#Photos]]

{|
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1183.JPG|thumb|Photo of OEM NiMH battery with case fully removed during [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], which is no longer necessary during current conversions.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1176.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in at the time of the [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], routed out of OEM battery case near service plug.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1442.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in later after [[PiPrius]] conversion, there is an additional unused wire on the neg(-) OEM contactor for use during "Genset mode"]]
|}

====Rons Images====
* Build Team [[:Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg]]
<gallery>
Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg|Build Team Photo with labels
Image:P10370.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10371.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10372.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.

Image:P10363.JPG|The unmodified trunk area.
Image:P10364.JPG|Pair of PVC air vents installed in spare tire well.
Image:P10365.JPG|Mockup of the Electronics housing for wiring and circuit boards.
Image:P10373.JPG|The empty new battery box.

Image:P10374.JPG|Electronics housing and misc parts on top of new battery box, ready for installation.
Image:P10382.JPG|Electronics housing and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10389.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10385.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.

Image:P10386.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10387.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10393.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.
Image:P10394.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.

Image:P10380.JPG|Electronics housing (front).
Image:P10379.JPG|Electronics housing (bottom).
Image:P10377.JPG|Electronics housing (back).
Image:P10376.JPG|Electronics housing (top).

Image:P10366.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10367.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10368.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10369.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.

Image:P10381.JPG|Working on Circuit boards.
Image:P10383.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10384.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10403.JPG|Electronics housing cooling fan flaps.

Image:P10390.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10391.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10395.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10396.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.

Image:P10397.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10398.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10400.JPG|110v breakout quad and 110 to 12v power supply.
Image:P10402.JPG|Ah Meter.

Image:P10405.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10406.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10407.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10408.JPG|Old Electronics Board.

Image:P10404.JPG|Inside corner of battery box top.
Image:P10409.JPG|[[CAN-View]] screen.
</gallery>

====Photos from Chris Ewert's Conversion====
These are photos that [[User:Cewert]] has shared with us of his conversion via the CalCars [[PriusPlus]] method.
<gallery>
Image:Cutting Aluminum.JPG|Cutting the aluminum with a hacksaw
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All the pieces necessary for the battery trays
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|All the parts from the tray laid out
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Set Together Close Up.JPG|Close up of the battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Ready for Jig.JPG|Tray set together, ready for creating "jig"
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Starting to assemble the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|More assembling the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Getting the jig assembled
Image:Almost Finished Tray Jig.JPG|Mostly finished tray jig
Image:Dremel Drill Press.JPG|Dremel drill press used for drilling holes in angle irons
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in the aluminum, then countersunk
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Sample corner finished (done on scrap aluminum)
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
Image:2 Trays with Some Supports.JPG|Experimenting with the support angle irons
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
Image:Fuses and Holders.JPG|Fuses and holders
Image:Fuse in holder.JPG|A fuse in it's holder
Image:Bottom of JTN60060.JPG|Bottom of the fuse holder (for DIN rail mounting)
Image:EV200 Contactor.JPG|The Kilovac EV200 contactor
Image:P1240040.JPG|Battery Box sitting on steel tube
Image:Batt_Box_with_screw_lift_supports.JPG|Battery box sitting on steel tube with second tube for screw lift support
Image:Bracket_on_OEM_Batt_screw.JPG|Alt mounting method: modified hanger bolted into battery box mount
Image:Batt_box_test_fit_forward_design.JPG|Alt mounting method: Test fit of unfinished battery box top in forward location
Image:Charger_in_tirewell.JPG|Charger in tirewell
Image:Welded_angle_iron_1.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Alt_method_support_angle_irons.jpg|Support angle irons
Image:Right_side _battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Right side battery box supports
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Left side battery box supports
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Rubber pad under support angle irons
Image:Entire alt batt box mounting supports.jpg|Entire battery box mounting supports
Image:Electronics box being assembled.jpg|Electronics box being assembled
Image:Electronics Box Partial 1.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box Partial 2.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well.jpg|Installed electronics box and charger
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well 2.jpg|Installed electronics box with top on
Image:HVD1 in electronics box.jpg|Close up of HVD1 installed
Image:Contactors in electronics box.jpg|Close up of contactors installed
Image:Left side of electronics box.jpg|Left side of electronics box
Image:Right side of electronics box.jpg|Right side of electronics box
Image:Fuses in electronics box.jpg|Close up of fuses in electronics box
Image:Zivan NG3 Charger connected.jpg|Close up of ZiVan NG3 charger
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed front.jpg|Unstuffed control board - front
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed back.jpg|Unstuffed control board - back
Image:Batteries being installed 1.jpg|Batteries being installed
Image:Batteries being installed 2.jpg|More batteries
Image:Batt box top modified for alt mounting method.jpg|Battery box top (modified for alt. mounting)
Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|Bolt on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|Removing carpeting from on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|Removing the upright part of the rear seat
Image:OEM battery exposed.jpg|The OEM battery exposed
Image:Opening OEM battery.jpg|Opening the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside OEM battery from back of car.jpg|Inside the OEM battery (unmodified) from rear of car
Image:Inside OEM battery after tie in.jpg|Inside the OEM battery after HV tie-in
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery.jpg|Unmodified OEM battery low voltage wiring
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery modified.jpg|Modified OEM battery low voltage wiring (for charge interlock)


Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

====Photos from 2007 Maker Faire====
Some photos from the [[2007 Maker Faire]] conversion.
<gallery>

Image:Maker Faire 2007 1.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 2.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 3.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 4.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 5.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 6.jpg|


Image:IMG 1171.jpg|The Make Faire team: left to right, Ron Gremban, Jim Bernard, Carolyn Coquillete, Chris Ewert, Walt Ferris , Nick Rothman, Cody Jackson, Robb Protheroe, Tom Driscoll, Felix Kramer, Jim Philippi. Not shown: Randy Reisinger, Ailian Chong, Amanda Kovattana, Marc Geller, Fraser Smith.
Image:IMG 1179.jpg|Outside the building, at the main entrance to Maker Faire, the team posed Ron's car (world's first Prius conversion) and Felix's car (with Valence lithium-ion batteries)
Image:IMG 1154 2.jpg|Applying the vinyl lettering to Jim's car.
Image:IMG 1186.jpg|Securing the battery box frame to the body of the car.
Image:IMG 1187.jpg|The battery box fits above the battery and tilts up to allow access to the spare tire.
Image:IMG 1188.jpg|Last-minute wiring diagrams.
Image:IMG 1190.jpg|Our work-site had crowds all day Saturday and Sunday.
Image:IMG 1205.jpg|Installing components inside the battery box.
Image:IMG 1208.jpg|Custom-made circuit boards included.
Image:IMG 1215.jpg|The team worked late Sunday night to wrap up the project.

</gallery>

===General Reference Materials===
These are some other General Reference Materials we use elsewhere on the site. This is also an example of how to use references within the page text. See [[PiPrius conversion process]] for another example of a page with multiple reference tages.

* Prius Dismantle Manual <ref>[[Media:Priusdisman.pdf]] from http://www.airlabcorp.com/Prius/priusdisman.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:Stereo Accessory Install Guide 04 Prius v1.03.pdf]] from http://www.chrisdragon.com/downloads/Stereo%20Accessory%20Install%20Guide,%2004%20Prius,%20v1.03.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:PriusXMradio3.2.pdf]] from https://www.metrotpn.com/documents/PDF%20Files/Prius/Eddie's%20XMRadio%20Install/PriusXMradio3.2.pdf</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install without Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installNONAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install with Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installWNAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html</ref>

* [[Prius EV Mode Button]] Installation <ref>[[Media:Prius-evbutton-install.pdf]] from http://www.calcars.org/prius-evbutton-install.pdf</ref>

* Factory EV Mode Button <ref>[[Media:FactoryEV.pdf]] from http://www.scubadivervideo.com/Files/factoryEV.pdf</ref>

You should be familiar with these reference materials and standard operating procedures around high voltages.
<references/>

==Intro Editing Help==
===File Specific Help===
File link Examples, click the edit button for this section to see how it works.

====Text Links:====

* Using :Image takes you to the Images description page:
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* Using Media takes you directly to the file:
** [[Media:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* You can use a | to change the text of the link to something more descriptive.
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|Control Board]]

====Inline resized images:====

25px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]], 50px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|50px]], 150px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|150px]],

300px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|300px]]

====Thumbnails:====

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|caption]]

* Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.

{{Clear}} The <nowiki>{{Clear}}</nowiki> template can be used to force empty white space after a thumbnail before continuing with the next block of text.

* A Second Example...
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|left|Small On Left]]
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|Small On Right]]
Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.
'' Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''
''Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''

{{Clear}}

==References==
<references/>

PriusPlus-RawData

2007-07-14T14:34:32Z

Cewert: /* General Help */ rm'd

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----

This page houses all raw reference materials and other data which have been uploaded to incorporate into documentation on the other pages.

==Files==
Here are the files that are available thus far.

===Schematics===
* High Power [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png|25px]]
* Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip]] exported parts list from schematic in Excel format, also includes LED Board.
** [[Template:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList]] use ''<nowiki>{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList}}</nowiki>'' to include in a page.
* LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** LED Board '''Now combined into [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip|ControlBdPartsList.zip]] above.'''

===Photos===
You can browse the [http://www.eaa-phev.org/index.php?title=Special:Newimages entire gallery] of images here at the eaa-phev site, 
or visit some other galleries with potentially applicable photos:
* [[2007_Maker_Faire#Photos]]
* Inaugural [[Maker_Faire_Photos]]
* [[PiPrius#Photos]]
** [[WhiteBird#Photos]]
** [[GrayPearl#Photos]]

{|
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1183.JPG|thumb|Photo of OEM NiMH battery with case fully removed during [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], which is no longer necessary during current conversions.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1176.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in at the time of the [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], routed out of OEM battery case near service plug.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1442.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in later after [[PiPrius]] conversion, there is an additional unused wire on the neg(-) OEM contactor for use during "Genset mode"]]
|}

====Rons Images====
* Build Team [[:Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg]]
<gallery>
Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg|Build Team Photo with labels
Image:P10370.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10371.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10372.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.

Image:P10363.JPG|The unmodified trunk area.
Image:P10364.JPG|Pair of PVC air vents installed in spare tire well.
Image:P10365.JPG|Mockup of the Electronics housing for wiring and circuit boards.
Image:P10373.JPG|The empty new battery box.

Image:P10374.JPG|Electronics housing and misc parts on top of new battery box, ready for installation.
Image:P10382.JPG|Electronics housing and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10389.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10385.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.

Image:P10386.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10387.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10393.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.
Image:P10394.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.

Image:P10380.JPG|Electronics housing (front).
Image:P10379.JPG|Electronics housing (bottom).
Image:P10377.JPG|Electronics housing (back).
Image:P10376.JPG|Electronics housing (top).

Image:P10366.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10367.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10368.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10369.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.

Image:P10381.JPG|Working on Circuit boards.
Image:P10383.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10384.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10403.JPG|Electronics housing cooling fan flaps.

Image:P10390.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10391.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10395.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10396.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.

Image:P10397.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10398.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10400.JPG|110v breakout quad and 110 to 12v power supply.
Image:P10402.JPG|Ah Meter.

Image:P10405.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10406.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10407.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10408.JPG|Old Electronics Board.

Image:P10404.JPG|Inside corner of battery box top.
Image:P10409.JPG|[[CAN-View]] screen.
</gallery>

====Photos from Chris Ewert's Conversion====
These are photos that [[User:Cewert]] has shared with us of his conversion via the CalCars [[PriusPlus]] method.
<gallery>
Image:Cutting Aluminum.JPG|Cutting the aluminum with a hacksaw
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All the pieces necessary for the battery trays
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|All the parts from the tray laid out
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Set Together Close Up.JPG|Close up of the battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Ready for Jig.JPG|Tray set together, ready for creating "jig"
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Starting to assemble the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|More assembling the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Getting the jig assembled
Image:Almost Finished Tray Jig.JPG|Mostly finished tray jig
Image:Dremel Drill Press.JPG|Dremel drill press used for drilling holes in angle irons
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in the aluminum, then countersunk
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Sample corner finished (done on scrap aluminum)
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
Image:2 Trays with Some Supports.JPG|Experimenting with the support angle irons
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
Image:Fuses and Holders.JPG|Fuses and holders
Image:Fuse in holder.JPG|A fuse in it's holder
Image:Bottom of JTN60060.JPG|Bottom of the fuse holder (for DIN rail mounting)
Image:EV200 Contactor.JPG|The Kilovac EV200 contactor
Image:P1240040.JPG|Battery Box sitting on steel tube
Image:Batt_Box_with_screw_lift_supports.JPG|Battery box sitting on steel tube with second tube for screw lift support
Image:Bracket_on_OEM_Batt_screw.JPG|Alt mounting method: modified hanger bolted into battery box mount
Image:Batt_box_test_fit_forward_design.JPG|Alt mounting method: Test fit of unfinished battery box top in forward location
Image:Charger_in_tirewell.JPG|Charger in tirewell
Image:Welded_angle_iron_1.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Alt_method_support_angle_irons.jpg|Support angle irons
Image:Right_side _battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Right side battery box supports
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Left side battery box supports
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Rubber pad under support angle irons
Image:Entire alt batt box mounting supports.jpg|Entire battery box mounting supports
Image:Electronics box being assembled.jpg|Electronics box being assembled
Image:Electronics Box Partial 1.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box Partial 2.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well.jpg|Installed electronics box and charger
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well 2.jpg|Installed electronics box with top on
Image:HVD1 in electronics box.jpg|Close up of HVD1 installed
Image:Contactors in electronics box.jpg|Close up of contactors installed
Image:Left side of electronics box.jpg|Left side of electronics box
Image:Right side of electronics box.jpg|Right side of electronics box
Image:Fuses in electronics box.jpg|Close up of fuses in electronics box
Image:Zivan NG3 Charger connected.jpg|Close up of ZiVan NG3 charger
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed front.jpg|Unstuffed control board - front
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed back.jpg|Unstuffed control board - back
Image:Batteries being installed 1.jpg|Batteries being installed
Image:Batteries being installed 2.jpg|More batteries
Image:Batt box top modified for alt mounting method.jpg|Battery box top (modified for alt. mounting)
Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|Bolt on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|Removing carpeting from on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|Removing the upright part of the rear seat
Image:OEM battery exposed.jpg|The OEM battery exposed
Image:Opening OEM battery.jpg|Opening the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside OEM battery from back of car.jpg|Inside the OEM battery (unmodified) from rear of car
Image:Inside OEM battery after tie in.jpg|Inside the OEM battery after HV tie-in
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery.jpg|Unmodified OEM battery low voltage wiring
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery modified.jpg|Modified OEM battery low voltage wiring (for charge interlock)


Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

====Photos from 2007 Maker Faire====
Some photos from the [[2007 Maker Faire]] conversion.
<gallery>

Image:Maker Faire 2007 1.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 2.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 3.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 4.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 5.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 6.jpg|


Image:IMG 1171.jpg|The Make Faire team: left to right, Ron Gremban, Jim Bernard, Carolyn Coquillete, Chris Ewert, Walt Ferris , Nick Rothman, Cody Jackson, Robb Protheroe, Tom Driscoll, Felix Kramer, Jim Philippi. Not shown: Randy Reisinger, Ailian Chong, Amanda Kovattana, Marc Geller, Fraser Smith.
Image:IMG 1179.jpg|Outside the building, at the main entrance to Maker Faire, the team posed Ron's car (world's first Prius conversion) and Felix's car (with Valence lithium-ion batteries)
Image:IMG 1154 2.jpg|Applying the vinyl lettering to Jim's car.
Image:IMG 1186.jpg|Securing the battery box frame to the body of the car.
Image:IMG 1187.jpg|The battery box fits above the battery and tilts up to allow access to the spare tire.
Image:IMG 1188.jpg|Last-minute wiring diagrams.
Image:IMG 1190.jpg|Our work-site had crowds all day Saturday and Sunday.
Image:IMG 1205.jpg|Installing components inside the battery box.
Image:IMG 1208.jpg|Custom-made circuit boards included.
Image:IMG 1215.jpg|The team worked late Sunday night to wrap up the project.

</gallery>

====Older PriusPlus Images====
Coming soon some photos from Rons original [[PriusPlus History]] conversion which may still be applicable to this project...

===General Reference Materials===
These are some other General Reference Materials we use elsewhere on the site. This is also an example of how to use references within the page text. See [[PiPrius conversion process]] for another example of a page with multiple reference tages.

* Prius Dismantle Manual <ref>[[Media:Priusdisman.pdf]] from http://www.airlabcorp.com/Prius/priusdisman.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:Stereo Accessory Install Guide 04 Prius v1.03.pdf]] from http://www.chrisdragon.com/downloads/Stereo%20Accessory%20Install%20Guide,%2004%20Prius,%20v1.03.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:PriusXMradio3.2.pdf]] from https://www.metrotpn.com/documents/PDF%20Files/Prius/Eddie's%20XMRadio%20Install/PriusXMradio3.2.pdf</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install without Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installNONAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install with Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installWNAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html</ref>

* [[Prius EV Mode Button]] Installation <ref>[[Media:Prius-evbutton-install.pdf]] from http://www.calcars.org/prius-evbutton-install.pdf</ref>

* Factory EV Mode Button <ref>[[Media:FactoryEV.pdf]] from http://www.scubadivervideo.com/Files/factoryEV.pdf</ref>

You should be familiar with these reference materials and standard operating procedures around high voltages.
<references/>

==Intro Editing Help==
===File Specific Help===
File link Examples, click the edit button for this section to see how it works.

====Text Links:====

* Using :Image takes you to the Images description page:
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* Using Media takes you directly to the file:
** [[Media:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* You can use a | to change the text of the link to something more descriptive.
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|Control Board]]

====Inline resized images:====

25px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]], 50px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|50px]], 150px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|150px]],

300px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|300px]]

====Thumbnails:====

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|caption]]

* Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.

{{Clear}} The <nowiki>{{Clear}}</nowiki> template can be used to force empty white space after a thumbnail before continuing with the next block of text.

* A Second Example...
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|left|Small On Left]]
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|Small On Right]]
Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.
'' Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''
''Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''

{{Clear}}

==References==
<references/>

PriusPlus-RawData

2007-07-14T14:33:54Z

Cewert: cleanup of initial paragraph

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----

This page houses all raw reference materials and other data which have been uploaded to incorporate into documentation on the other pages.

==Files==
Here are the files that are available thus far.

===Schematics===
* High Power [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png|25px]]
* Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip]] exported parts list from schematic in Excel format, also includes LED Board.
** [[Template:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList]] use ''<nowiki>{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList}}</nowiki>'' to include in a page.
* LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** LED Board '''Now combined into [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip|ControlBdPartsList.zip]] above.'''

===Photos===
You can browse the [http://www.eaa-phev.org/index.php?title=Special:Newimages entire gallery] of images here at the eaa-phev site, 
or visit some other galleries with potentially applicable photos:
* [[2007_Maker_Faire#Photos]]
* Inaugural [[Maker_Faire_Photos]]
* [[PiPrius#Photos]]
** [[WhiteBird#Photos]]
** [[GrayPearl#Photos]]

{|
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1183.JPG|thumb|Photo of OEM NiMH battery with case fully removed during [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], which is no longer necessary during current conversions.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1176.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in at the time of the [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], routed out of OEM battery case near service plug.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1442.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in later after [[PiPrius]] conversion, there is an additional unused wire on the neg(-) OEM contactor for use during "Genset mode"]]
|}

====Rons Images====
* Build Team [[:Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg]]
<gallery>
Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg|Build Team Photo with labels
Image:P10370.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10371.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10372.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.

Image:P10363.JPG|The unmodified trunk area.
Image:P10364.JPG|Pair of PVC air vents installed in spare tire well.
Image:P10365.JPG|Mockup of the Electronics housing for wiring and circuit boards.
Image:P10373.JPG|The empty new battery box.

Image:P10374.JPG|Electronics housing and misc parts on top of new battery box, ready for installation.
Image:P10382.JPG|Electronics housing and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10389.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10385.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.

Image:P10386.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10387.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10393.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.
Image:P10394.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.

Image:P10380.JPG|Electronics housing (front).
Image:P10379.JPG|Electronics housing (bottom).
Image:P10377.JPG|Electronics housing (back).
Image:P10376.JPG|Electronics housing (top).

Image:P10366.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10367.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10368.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10369.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.

Image:P10381.JPG|Working on Circuit boards.
Image:P10383.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10384.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10403.JPG|Electronics housing cooling fan flaps.

Image:P10390.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10391.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10395.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10396.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.

Image:P10397.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10398.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10400.JPG|110v breakout quad and 110 to 12v power supply.
Image:P10402.JPG|Ah Meter.

Image:P10405.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10406.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10407.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10408.JPG|Old Electronics Board.

Image:P10404.JPG|Inside corner of battery box top.
Image:P10409.JPG|[[CAN-View]] screen.
</gallery>

====Photos from Chris Ewert's Conversion====
These are photos that [[User:Cewert]] has shared with us of his conversion via the CalCars [[PriusPlus]] method.
<gallery>
Image:Cutting Aluminum.JPG|Cutting the aluminum with a hacksaw
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All the pieces necessary for the battery trays
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|All the parts from the tray laid out
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Set Together Close Up.JPG|Close up of the battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Ready for Jig.JPG|Tray set together, ready for creating "jig"
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Starting to assemble the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|More assembling the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Getting the jig assembled
Image:Almost Finished Tray Jig.JPG|Mostly finished tray jig
Image:Dremel Drill Press.JPG|Dremel drill press used for drilling holes in angle irons
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in the aluminum, then countersunk
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Sample corner finished (done on scrap aluminum)
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
Image:2 Trays with Some Supports.JPG|Experimenting with the support angle irons
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
Image:Fuses and Holders.JPG|Fuses and holders
Image:Fuse in holder.JPG|A fuse in it's holder
Image:Bottom of JTN60060.JPG|Bottom of the fuse holder (for DIN rail mounting)
Image:EV200 Contactor.JPG|The Kilovac EV200 contactor
Image:P1240040.JPG|Battery Box sitting on steel tube
Image:Batt_Box_with_screw_lift_supports.JPG|Battery box sitting on steel tube with second tube for screw lift support
Image:Bracket_on_OEM_Batt_screw.JPG|Alt mounting method: modified hanger bolted into battery box mount
Image:Batt_box_test_fit_forward_design.JPG|Alt mounting method: Test fit of unfinished battery box top in forward location
Image:Charger_in_tirewell.JPG|Charger in tirewell
Image:Welded_angle_iron_1.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Alt_method_support_angle_irons.jpg|Support angle irons
Image:Right_side _battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Right side battery box supports
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Left side battery box supports
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Rubber pad under support angle irons
Image:Entire alt batt box mounting supports.jpg|Entire battery box mounting supports
Image:Electronics box being assembled.jpg|Electronics box being assembled
Image:Electronics Box Partial 1.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box Partial 2.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well.jpg|Installed electronics box and charger
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well 2.jpg|Installed electronics box with top on
Image:HVD1 in electronics box.jpg|Close up of HVD1 installed
Image:Contactors in electronics box.jpg|Close up of contactors installed
Image:Left side of electronics box.jpg|Left side of electronics box
Image:Right side of electronics box.jpg|Right side of electronics box
Image:Fuses in electronics box.jpg|Close up of fuses in electronics box
Image:Zivan NG3 Charger connected.jpg|Close up of ZiVan NG3 charger
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed front.jpg|Unstuffed control board - front
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed back.jpg|Unstuffed control board - back
Image:Batteries being installed 1.jpg|Batteries being installed
Image:Batteries being installed 2.jpg|More batteries
Image:Batt box top modified for alt mounting method.jpg|Battery box top (modified for alt. mounting)
Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|Bolt on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|Removing carpeting from on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|Removing the upright part of the rear seat
Image:OEM battery exposed.jpg|The OEM battery exposed
Image:Opening OEM battery.jpg|Opening the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside OEM battery from back of car.jpg|Inside the OEM battery (unmodified) from rear of car
Image:Inside OEM battery after tie in.jpg|Inside the OEM battery after HV tie-in
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery.jpg|Unmodified OEM battery low voltage wiring
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery modified.jpg|Modified OEM battery low voltage wiring (for charge interlock)


Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

====Photos from 2007 Maker Faire====
Some photos from the [[2007 Maker Faire]] conversion.
<gallery>

Image:Maker Faire 2007 1.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 2.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 3.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 4.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 5.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 6.jpg|


Image:IMG 1171.jpg|The Make Faire team: left to right, Ron Gremban, Jim Bernard, Carolyn Coquillete, Chris Ewert, Walt Ferris , Nick Rothman, Cody Jackson, Robb Protheroe, Tom Driscoll, Felix Kramer, Jim Philippi. Not shown: Randy Reisinger, Ailian Chong, Amanda Kovattana, Marc Geller, Fraser Smith.
Image:IMG 1179.jpg|Outside the building, at the main entrance to Maker Faire, the team posed Ron's car (world's first Prius conversion) and Felix's car (with Valence lithium-ion batteries)
Image:IMG 1154 2.jpg|Applying the vinyl lettering to Jim's car.
Image:IMG 1186.jpg|Securing the battery box frame to the body of the car.
Image:IMG 1187.jpg|The battery box fits above the battery and tilts up to allow access to the spare tire.
Image:IMG 1188.jpg|Last-minute wiring diagrams.
Image:IMG 1190.jpg|Our work-site had crowds all day Saturday and Sunday.
Image:IMG 1205.jpg|Installing components inside the battery box.
Image:IMG 1208.jpg|Custom-made circuit boards included.
Image:IMG 1215.jpg|The team worked late Sunday night to wrap up the project.

</gallery>

====Older PriusPlus Images====
Coming soon some photos from Rons original [[PriusPlus History]] conversion which may still be applicable to this project...

===General Reference Materials===
These are some other General Reference Materials we use elsewhere on the site. This is also an example of how to use references within the page text. See [[PiPrius conversion process]] for another example of a page with multiple reference tages.

* Prius Dismantle Manual <ref>[[Media:Priusdisman.pdf]] from http://www.airlabcorp.com/Prius/priusdisman.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:Stereo Accessory Install Guide 04 Prius v1.03.pdf]] from http://www.chrisdragon.com/downloads/Stereo%20Accessory%20Install%20Guide,%2004%20Prius,%20v1.03.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:PriusXMradio3.2.pdf]] from https://www.metrotpn.com/documents/PDF%20Files/Prius/Eddie's%20XMRadio%20Install/PriusXMradio3.2.pdf</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install without Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installNONAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install with Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installWNAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html</ref>

* [[Prius EV Mode Button]] Installation <ref>[[Media:Prius-evbutton-install.pdf]] from http://www.calcars.org/prius-evbutton-install.pdf</ref>

* Factory EV Mode Button <ref>[[Media:FactoryEV.pdf]] from http://www.scubadivervideo.com/Files/factoryEV.pdf</ref>

You should be familiar with these reference materials and standard operating procedures around high voltages.
<references/>

==Intro Editing Help==
===File Specific Help===
File link Examples, click the edit button for this section to see how it works.

====Text Links:====

* Using :Image takes you to the Images description page:
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* Using Media takes you directly to the file:
** [[Media:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* You can use a | to change the text of the link to something more descriptive.
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|Control Board]]

====Inline resized images:====

25px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]], 50px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|50px]], 150px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|150px]],

300px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|300px]]

====Thumbnails:====

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|caption]]

* Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.

{{Clear}} The <nowiki>{{Clear}}</nowiki> template can be used to force empty white space after a thumbnail before continuing with the next block of text.

* A Second Example...
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|left|Small On Left]]
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|Small On Right]]
Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.
'' Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''
''Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''

{{Clear}}

===General Help===

Intro Paragraph here maybe with a link to the main [[PriusPlus]] article, links to external sites can appear as formatted [http://www.calcars.com CalCars], just plain URLs like http://www.calcars.com, or fancy references such as that in the next paragraph.

Another Paragraph and such, you can get help at our [[Help:Contents#How do I use the Wiki Website]] page <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents more help using the wiki.</ref> Feel free to simply remove or if you like move all of this example text to the pages discussion article.

==References==
<references/>

PriusPlus-PartsList

2007-07-14T14:31:59Z

Cewert: /* LED Board Parts List */

PriusPlus-RawData

2007-07-14T14:30:21Z

Cewert: /* A Major Topic */ rm'd

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----

This page houses all raw materials which have been uploaded for various people to work with and incorporate into documentation on the other pages. Add new documents to the list below and organize them if at all possible.

Image files can be easily linked to by placing a ":" after the "<nowiki>[[</nowiki>", otherwise the image will be shown. If you want the image to appear then after the images name add "|thumb" to create a thumbnail for it, use "|200px" to specify a size other than the default, and use "|caption text" to describe the image as the last element before the closing "]]".

Other non-image files such as .pdf, .doc, .xls, .etc can be linked to with the same "<nowiki>[[</nowiki>Image:" type link or with a <nowiki>[[</nowiki>Media:" link. The :Image link will take you to the files page with a description of the file, list of pages on which it's used, and of course a link to the file itself. The Media link will instead take you directly to that file without visiting the files page first. See some examples in the "Intro Editing Help" section below.

==Files==
Here are the files that are available thus far.

===Schematics===
* High Power [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png|25px]]
* Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip]] exported parts list from schematic in Excel format, also includes LED Board.
** [[Template:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList]] use ''<nowiki>{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList}}</nowiki>'' to include in a page.
* LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** LED Board '''Now combined into [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip|ControlBdPartsList.zip]] above.'''

===Photos===
You can browse the [http://www.eaa-phev.org/index.php?title=Special:Newimages entire gallery] of images here at the eaa-phev site, 
or visit some other galleries with potentially applicable photos:
* [[2007_Maker_Faire#Photos]]
* Inaugural [[Maker_Faire_Photos]]
* [[PiPrius#Photos]]
** [[WhiteBird#Photos]]
** [[GrayPearl#Photos]]

{|
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1183.JPG|thumb|Photo of OEM NiMH battery with case fully removed during [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], which is no longer necessary during current conversions.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1176.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in at the time of the [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], routed out of OEM battery case near service plug.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1442.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in later after [[PiPrius]] conversion, there is an additional unused wire on the neg(-) OEM contactor for use during "Genset mode"]]
|}

====Rons Images====
* Build Team [[:Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg]]
<gallery>
Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg|Build Team Photo with labels
Image:P10370.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10371.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10372.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.

Image:P10363.JPG|The unmodified trunk area.
Image:P10364.JPG|Pair of PVC air vents installed in spare tire well.
Image:P10365.JPG|Mockup of the Electronics housing for wiring and circuit boards.
Image:P10373.JPG|The empty new battery box.

Image:P10374.JPG|Electronics housing and misc parts on top of new battery box, ready for installation.
Image:P10382.JPG|Electronics housing and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10389.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10385.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.

Image:P10386.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10387.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10393.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.
Image:P10394.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.

Image:P10380.JPG|Electronics housing (front).
Image:P10379.JPG|Electronics housing (bottom).
Image:P10377.JPG|Electronics housing (back).
Image:P10376.JPG|Electronics housing (top).

Image:P10366.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10367.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10368.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10369.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.

Image:P10381.JPG|Working on Circuit boards.
Image:P10383.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10384.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10403.JPG|Electronics housing cooling fan flaps.

Image:P10390.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10391.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10395.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10396.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.

Image:P10397.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10398.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10400.JPG|110v breakout quad and 110 to 12v power supply.
Image:P10402.JPG|Ah Meter.

Image:P10405.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10406.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10407.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10408.JPG|Old Electronics Board.

Image:P10404.JPG|Inside corner of battery box top.
Image:P10409.JPG|[[CAN-View]] screen.
</gallery>

====Photos from Chris Ewert's Conversion====
These are photos that [[User:Cewert]] has shared with us of his conversion via the CalCars [[PriusPlus]] method.
<gallery>
Image:Cutting Aluminum.JPG|Cutting the aluminum with a hacksaw
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All the pieces necessary for the battery trays
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|All the parts from the tray laid out
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Set Together Close Up.JPG|Close up of the battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Ready for Jig.JPG|Tray set together, ready for creating "jig"
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Starting to assemble the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|More assembling the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Getting the jig assembled
Image:Almost Finished Tray Jig.JPG|Mostly finished tray jig
Image:Dremel Drill Press.JPG|Dremel drill press used for drilling holes in angle irons
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in the aluminum, then countersunk
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Sample corner finished (done on scrap aluminum)
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
Image:2 Trays with Some Supports.JPG|Experimenting with the support angle irons
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
Image:Fuses and Holders.JPG|Fuses and holders
Image:Fuse in holder.JPG|A fuse in it's holder
Image:Bottom of JTN60060.JPG|Bottom of the fuse holder (for DIN rail mounting)
Image:EV200 Contactor.JPG|The Kilovac EV200 contactor
Image:P1240040.JPG|Battery Box sitting on steel tube
Image:Batt_Box_with_screw_lift_supports.JPG|Battery box sitting on steel tube with second tube for screw lift support
Image:Bracket_on_OEM_Batt_screw.JPG|Alt mounting method: modified hanger bolted into battery box mount
Image:Batt_box_test_fit_forward_design.JPG|Alt mounting method: Test fit of unfinished battery box top in forward location
Image:Charger_in_tirewell.JPG|Charger in tirewell
Image:Welded_angle_iron_1.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Alt_method_support_angle_irons.jpg|Support angle irons
Image:Right_side _battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Right side battery box supports
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Left side battery box supports
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Rubber pad under support angle irons
Image:Entire alt batt box mounting supports.jpg|Entire battery box mounting supports
Image:Electronics box being assembled.jpg|Electronics box being assembled
Image:Electronics Box Partial 1.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box Partial 2.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well.jpg|Installed electronics box and charger
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well 2.jpg|Installed electronics box with top on
Image:HVD1 in electronics box.jpg|Close up of HVD1 installed
Image:Contactors in electronics box.jpg|Close up of contactors installed
Image:Left side of electronics box.jpg|Left side of electronics box
Image:Right side of electronics box.jpg|Right side of electronics box
Image:Fuses in electronics box.jpg|Close up of fuses in electronics box
Image:Zivan NG3 Charger connected.jpg|Close up of ZiVan NG3 charger
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed front.jpg|Unstuffed control board - front
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed back.jpg|Unstuffed control board - back
Image:Batteries being installed 1.jpg|Batteries being installed
Image:Batteries being installed 2.jpg|More batteries
Image:Batt box top modified for alt mounting method.jpg|Battery box top (modified for alt. mounting)
Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|Bolt on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|Removing carpeting from on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|Removing the upright part of the rear seat
Image:OEM battery exposed.jpg|The OEM battery exposed
Image:Opening OEM battery.jpg|Opening the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside OEM battery from back of car.jpg|Inside the OEM battery (unmodified) from rear of car
Image:Inside OEM battery after tie in.jpg|Inside the OEM battery after HV tie-in
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery.jpg|Unmodified OEM battery low voltage wiring
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery modified.jpg|Modified OEM battery low voltage wiring (for charge interlock)


Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

====Photos from 2007 Maker Faire====
Some photos from the [[2007 Maker Faire]] conversion.
<gallery>

Image:Maker Faire 2007 1.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 2.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 3.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 4.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 5.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 6.jpg|


Image:IMG 1171.jpg|The Make Faire team: left to right, Ron Gremban, Jim Bernard, Carolyn Coquillete, Chris Ewert, Walt Ferris , Nick Rothman, Cody Jackson, Robb Protheroe, Tom Driscoll, Felix Kramer, Jim Philippi. Not shown: Randy Reisinger, Ailian Chong, Amanda Kovattana, Marc Geller, Fraser Smith.
Image:IMG 1179.jpg|Outside the building, at the main entrance to Maker Faire, the team posed Ron's car (world's first Prius conversion) and Felix's car (with Valence lithium-ion batteries)
Image:IMG 1154 2.jpg|Applying the vinyl lettering to Jim's car.
Image:IMG 1186.jpg|Securing the battery box frame to the body of the car.
Image:IMG 1187.jpg|The battery box fits above the battery and tilts up to allow access to the spare tire.
Image:IMG 1188.jpg|Last-minute wiring diagrams.
Image:IMG 1190.jpg|Our work-site had crowds all day Saturday and Sunday.
Image:IMG 1205.jpg|Installing components inside the battery box.
Image:IMG 1208.jpg|Custom-made circuit boards included.
Image:IMG 1215.jpg|The team worked late Sunday night to wrap up the project.

</gallery>

====Older PriusPlus Images====
Coming soon some photos from Rons original [[PriusPlus History]] conversion which may still be applicable to this project...

===General Reference Materials===
These are some other General Reference Materials we use elsewhere on the site. This is also an example of how to use references within the page text. See [[PiPrius conversion process]] for another example of a page with multiple reference tages.

* Prius Dismantle Manual <ref>[[Media:Priusdisman.pdf]] from http://www.airlabcorp.com/Prius/priusdisman.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:Stereo Accessory Install Guide 04 Prius v1.03.pdf]] from http://www.chrisdragon.com/downloads/Stereo%20Accessory%20Install%20Guide,%2004%20Prius,%20v1.03.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:PriusXMradio3.2.pdf]] from https://www.metrotpn.com/documents/PDF%20Files/Prius/Eddie's%20XMRadio%20Install/PriusXMradio3.2.pdf</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install without Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installNONAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install with Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installWNAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html</ref>

* [[Prius EV Mode Button]] Installation <ref>[[Media:Prius-evbutton-install.pdf]] from http://www.calcars.org/prius-evbutton-install.pdf</ref>

* Factory EV Mode Button <ref>[[Media:FactoryEV.pdf]] from http://www.scubadivervideo.com/Files/factoryEV.pdf</ref>

You should be familiar with these reference materials and standard operating procedures around high voltages.
<references/>

==Intro Editing Help==
===File Specific Help===
File link Examples, click the edit button for this section to see how it works.

====Text Links:====

* Using :Image takes you to the Images description page:
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* Using Media takes you directly to the file:
** [[Media:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* You can use a | to change the text of the link to something more descriptive.
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|Control Board]]

====Inline resized images:====

25px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]], 50px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|50px]], 150px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|150px]],

300px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|300px]]

====Thumbnails:====

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|caption]]

* Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.

{{Clear}} The <nowiki>{{Clear}}</nowiki> template can be used to force empty white space after a thumbnail before continuing with the next block of text.

* A Second Example...
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|left|Small On Left]]
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|Small On Right]]
Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.
'' Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''
''Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''

{{Clear}}

===General Help===

Intro Paragraph here maybe with a link to the main [[PriusPlus]] article, links to external sites can appear as formatted [http://www.calcars.com CalCars], just plain URLs like http://www.calcars.com, or fancy references such as that in the next paragraph.

Another Paragraph and such, you can get help at our [[Help:Contents#How do I use the Wiki Website]] page <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents more help using the wiki.</ref> Feel free to simply remove or if you like move all of this example text to the pages discussion article.

==References==
<references/>

PriusPlus-RawData

2007-07-14T14:28:35Z

Cewert: /* ToDo */ rm'd

PriusPlus-RawData

2007-07-14T14:27:42Z

Cewert: /* Alternative Mounting Method */ rm'd (out of date, info on step-by-step)

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----

This page houses all raw materials which have been uploaded for various people to work with and incorporate into documentation on the other pages. Add new documents to the list below and organize them if at all possible.

Image files can be easily linked to by placing a ":" after the "<nowiki>[[</nowiki>", otherwise the image will be shown. If you want the image to appear then after the images name add "|thumb" to create a thumbnail for it, use "|200px" to specify a size other than the default, and use "|caption text" to describe the image as the last element before the closing "]]".

Other non-image files such as .pdf, .doc, .xls, .etc can be linked to with the same "<nowiki>[[</nowiki>Image:" type link or with a <nowiki>[[</nowiki>Media:" link. The :Image link will take you to the files page with a description of the file, list of pages on which it's used, and of course a link to the file itself. The Media link will instead take you directly to that file without visiting the files page first. See some examples in the "Intro Editing Help" section below.

==Files==
Here are the files that are available thus far.

===Schematics===
* High Power [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png|25px]]
* Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip]] exported parts list from schematic in Excel format, also includes LED Board.
** [[Template:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList]] use ''<nowiki>{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList}}</nowiki>'' to include in a page.
* LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** LED Board '''Now combined into [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip|ControlBdPartsList.zip]] above.'''

===Photos===
You can browse the [http://www.eaa-phev.org/index.php?title=Special:Newimages entire gallery] of images here at the eaa-phev site, 
or visit some other galleries with potentially applicable photos:
* [[2007_Maker_Faire#Photos]]
* Inaugural [[Maker_Faire_Photos]]
* [[PiPrius#Photos]]
** [[WhiteBird#Photos]]
** [[GrayPearl#Photos]]

{|
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1183.JPG|thumb|Photo of OEM NiMH battery with case fully removed during [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], which is no longer necessary during current conversions.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1176.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in at the time of the [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], routed out of OEM battery case near service plug.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1442.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in later after [[PiPrius]] conversion, there is an additional unused wire on the neg(-) OEM contactor for use during "Genset mode"]]
|}

====Rons Images====
* Build Team [[:Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg]]
<gallery>
Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg|Build Team Photo with labels
Image:P10370.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10371.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10372.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.

Image:P10363.JPG|The unmodified trunk area.
Image:P10364.JPG|Pair of PVC air vents installed in spare tire well.
Image:P10365.JPG|Mockup of the Electronics housing for wiring and circuit boards.
Image:P10373.JPG|The empty new battery box.

Image:P10374.JPG|Electronics housing and misc parts on top of new battery box, ready for installation.
Image:P10382.JPG|Electronics housing and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10389.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10385.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.

Image:P10386.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10387.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10393.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.
Image:P10394.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.

Image:P10380.JPG|Electronics housing (front).
Image:P10379.JPG|Electronics housing (bottom).
Image:P10377.JPG|Electronics housing (back).
Image:P10376.JPG|Electronics housing (top).

Image:P10366.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10367.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10368.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10369.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.

Image:P10381.JPG|Working on Circuit boards.
Image:P10383.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10384.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10403.JPG|Electronics housing cooling fan flaps.

Image:P10390.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10391.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10395.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10396.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.

Image:P10397.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10398.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10400.JPG|110v breakout quad and 110 to 12v power supply.
Image:P10402.JPG|Ah Meter.

Image:P10405.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10406.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10407.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10408.JPG|Old Electronics Board.

Image:P10404.JPG|Inside corner of battery box top.
Image:P10409.JPG|[[CAN-View]] screen.
</gallery>

====Photos from Chris Ewert's Conversion====
These are photos that [[User:Cewert]] has shared with us of his conversion via the CalCars [[PriusPlus]] method.
<gallery>
Image:Cutting Aluminum.JPG|Cutting the aluminum with a hacksaw
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All the pieces necessary for the battery trays
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|All the parts from the tray laid out
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Set Together Close Up.JPG|Close up of the battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Ready for Jig.JPG|Tray set together, ready for creating "jig"
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Starting to assemble the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|More assembling the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Getting the jig assembled
Image:Almost Finished Tray Jig.JPG|Mostly finished tray jig
Image:Dremel Drill Press.JPG|Dremel drill press used for drilling holes in angle irons
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in the aluminum, then countersunk
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Sample corner finished (done on scrap aluminum)
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
Image:2 Trays with Some Supports.JPG|Experimenting with the support angle irons
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
Image:Fuses and Holders.JPG|Fuses and holders
Image:Fuse in holder.JPG|A fuse in it's holder
Image:Bottom of JTN60060.JPG|Bottom of the fuse holder (for DIN rail mounting)
Image:EV200 Contactor.JPG|The Kilovac EV200 contactor
Image:P1240040.JPG|Battery Box sitting on steel tube
Image:Batt_Box_with_screw_lift_supports.JPG|Battery box sitting on steel tube with second tube for screw lift support
Image:Bracket_on_OEM_Batt_screw.JPG|Alt mounting method: modified hanger bolted into battery box mount
Image:Batt_box_test_fit_forward_design.JPG|Alt mounting method: Test fit of unfinished battery box top in forward location
Image:Charger_in_tirewell.JPG|Charger in tirewell
Image:Welded_angle_iron_1.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Alt_method_support_angle_irons.jpg|Support angle irons
Image:Right_side _battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Right side battery box supports
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Left side battery box supports
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Rubber pad under support angle irons
Image:Entire alt batt box mounting supports.jpg|Entire battery box mounting supports
Image:Electronics box being assembled.jpg|Electronics box being assembled
Image:Electronics Box Partial 1.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box Partial 2.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well.jpg|Installed electronics box and charger
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well 2.jpg|Installed electronics box with top on
Image:HVD1 in electronics box.jpg|Close up of HVD1 installed
Image:Contactors in electronics box.jpg|Close up of contactors installed
Image:Left side of electronics box.jpg|Left side of electronics box
Image:Right side of electronics box.jpg|Right side of electronics box
Image:Fuses in electronics box.jpg|Close up of fuses in electronics box
Image:Zivan NG3 Charger connected.jpg|Close up of ZiVan NG3 charger
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed front.jpg|Unstuffed control board - front
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed back.jpg|Unstuffed control board - back
Image:Batteries being installed 1.jpg|Batteries being installed
Image:Batteries being installed 2.jpg|More batteries
Image:Batt box top modified for alt mounting method.jpg|Battery box top (modified for alt. mounting)
Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|Bolt on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|Removing carpeting from on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|Removing the upright part of the rear seat
Image:OEM battery exposed.jpg|The OEM battery exposed
Image:Opening OEM battery.jpg|Opening the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside OEM battery from back of car.jpg|Inside the OEM battery (unmodified) from rear of car
Image:Inside OEM battery after tie in.jpg|Inside the OEM battery after HV tie-in
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery.jpg|Unmodified OEM battery low voltage wiring
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery modified.jpg|Modified OEM battery low voltage wiring (for charge interlock)


Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

====Photos from 2007 Maker Faire====
Some photos from the [[2007 Maker Faire]] conversion.
<gallery>

Image:Maker Faire 2007 1.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 2.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 3.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 4.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 5.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 6.jpg|


Image:IMG 1171.jpg|The Make Faire team: left to right, Ron Gremban, Jim Bernard, Carolyn Coquillete, Chris Ewert, Walt Ferris , Nick Rothman, Cody Jackson, Robb Protheroe, Tom Driscoll, Felix Kramer, Jim Philippi. Not shown: Randy Reisinger, Ailian Chong, Amanda Kovattana, Marc Geller, Fraser Smith.
Image:IMG 1179.jpg|Outside the building, at the main entrance to Maker Faire, the team posed Ron's car (world's first Prius conversion) and Felix's car (with Valence lithium-ion batteries)
Image:IMG 1154 2.jpg|Applying the vinyl lettering to Jim's car.
Image:IMG 1186.jpg|Securing the battery box frame to the body of the car.
Image:IMG 1187.jpg|The battery box fits above the battery and tilts up to allow access to the spare tire.
Image:IMG 1188.jpg|Last-minute wiring diagrams.
Image:IMG 1190.jpg|Our work-site had crowds all day Saturday and Sunday.
Image:IMG 1205.jpg|Installing components inside the battery box.
Image:IMG 1208.jpg|Custom-made circuit boards included.
Image:IMG 1215.jpg|The team worked late Sunday night to wrap up the project.

</gallery>

====Older PriusPlus Images====
Coming soon some photos from Rons original [[PriusPlus History]] conversion which may still be applicable to this project...

===General Reference Materials===
These are some other General Reference Materials we use elsewhere on the site. This is also an example of how to use references within the page text. See [[PiPrius conversion process]] for another example of a page with multiple reference tages.

* Prius Dismantle Manual <ref>[[Media:Priusdisman.pdf]] from http://www.airlabcorp.com/Prius/priusdisman.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:Stereo Accessory Install Guide 04 Prius v1.03.pdf]] from http://www.chrisdragon.com/downloads/Stereo%20Accessory%20Install%20Guide,%2004%20Prius,%20v1.03.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:PriusXMradio3.2.pdf]] from https://www.metrotpn.com/documents/PDF%20Files/Prius/Eddie's%20XMRadio%20Install/PriusXMradio3.2.pdf</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install without Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installNONAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install with Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installWNAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html</ref>

* [[Prius EV Mode Button]] Installation <ref>[[Media:Prius-evbutton-install.pdf]] from http://www.calcars.org/prius-evbutton-install.pdf</ref>

* Factory EV Mode Button <ref>[[Media:FactoryEV.pdf]] from http://www.scubadivervideo.com/Files/factoryEV.pdf</ref>

You should be familiar with these reference materials and standard operating procedures around high voltages.
<references/>

===ToDo===
Stuff to be imported/uploaded:

==Intro Editing Help==
===File Specific Help===
File link Examples, click the edit button for this section to see how it works.

====Text Links:====

* Using :Image takes you to the Images description page:
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* Using Media takes you directly to the file:
** [[Media:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* You can use a | to change the text of the link to something more descriptive.
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|Control Board]]

====Inline resized images:====

25px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]], 50px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|50px]], 150px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|150px]],

300px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|300px]]

====Thumbnails:====

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|caption]]

* Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.

{{Clear}} The <nowiki>{{Clear}}</nowiki> template can be used to force empty white space after a thumbnail before continuing with the next block of text.

* A Second Example...
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|left|Small On Left]]
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|Small On Right]]
Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.
'' Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''
''Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''

{{Clear}}

===General Help===

Intro Paragraph here maybe with a link to the main [[PriusPlus]] article, links to external sites can appear as formatted [http://www.calcars.com CalCars], just plain URLs like http://www.calcars.com, or fancy references such as that in the next paragraph.

Another Paragraph and such, you can get help at our [[Help:Contents#How do I use the Wiki Website]] page <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents more help using the wiki.</ref> Feel free to simply remove or if you like move all of this example text to the pages discussion article.

==A Major Topic==
Talking about the major topic.

===Sub Topic===
Yes, this is a sub topic

===Sub Topic number two===
You guessed it, another sub topic.

==References==
<references/>

PriusPlus-RawData

2007-07-14T14:26:56Z

Cewert: /* Raw Large */ rm'd

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----

This page houses all raw materials which have been uploaded for various people to work with and incorporate into documentation on the other pages. Add new documents to the list below and organize them if at all possible.

Image files can be easily linked to by placing a ":" after the "<nowiki>[[</nowiki>", otherwise the image will be shown. If you want the image to appear then after the images name add "|thumb" to create a thumbnail for it, use "|200px" to specify a size other than the default, and use "|caption text" to describe the image as the last element before the closing "]]".

Other non-image files such as .pdf, .doc, .xls, .etc can be linked to with the same "<nowiki>[[</nowiki>Image:" type link or with a <nowiki>[[</nowiki>Media:" link. The :Image link will take you to the files page with a description of the file, list of pages on which it's used, and of course a link to the file itself. The Media link will instead take you directly to that file without visiting the files page first. See some examples in the "Intro Editing Help" section below.

==Files==
Here are the files that are available thus far.

===Schematics===
* High Power [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png|25px]]
* Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip]] exported parts list from schematic in Excel format, also includes LED Board.
** [[Template:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList]] use ''<nowiki>{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList}}</nowiki>'' to include in a page.
* LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** LED Board '''Now combined into [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip|ControlBdPartsList.zip]] above.'''

===Photos===
You can browse the [http://www.eaa-phev.org/index.php?title=Special:Newimages entire gallery] of images here at the eaa-phev site, 
or visit some other galleries with potentially applicable photos:
* [[2007_Maker_Faire#Photos]]
* Inaugural [[Maker_Faire_Photos]]
* [[PiPrius#Photos]]
** [[WhiteBird#Photos]]
** [[GrayPearl#Photos]]

{|
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1183.JPG|thumb|Photo of OEM NiMH battery with case fully removed during [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], which is no longer necessary during current conversions.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1176.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in at the time of the [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], routed out of OEM battery case near service plug.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1442.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in later after [[PiPrius]] conversion, there is an additional unused wire on the neg(-) OEM contactor for use during "Genset mode"]]
|}

====Rons Images====
* Build Team [[:Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg]]
<gallery>
Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg|Build Team Photo with labels
Image:P10370.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10371.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10372.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.

Image:P10363.JPG|The unmodified trunk area.
Image:P10364.JPG|Pair of PVC air vents installed in spare tire well.
Image:P10365.JPG|Mockup of the Electronics housing for wiring and circuit boards.
Image:P10373.JPG|The empty new battery box.

Image:P10374.JPG|Electronics housing and misc parts on top of new battery box, ready for installation.
Image:P10382.JPG|Electronics housing and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10389.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10385.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.

Image:P10386.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10387.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10393.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.
Image:P10394.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.

Image:P10380.JPG|Electronics housing (front).
Image:P10379.JPG|Electronics housing (bottom).
Image:P10377.JPG|Electronics housing (back).
Image:P10376.JPG|Electronics housing (top).

Image:P10366.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10367.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10368.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10369.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.

Image:P10381.JPG|Working on Circuit boards.
Image:P10383.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10384.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10403.JPG|Electronics housing cooling fan flaps.

Image:P10390.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10391.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10395.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10396.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.

Image:P10397.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10398.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10400.JPG|110v breakout quad and 110 to 12v power supply.
Image:P10402.JPG|Ah Meter.

Image:P10405.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10406.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10407.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10408.JPG|Old Electronics Board.

Image:P10404.JPG|Inside corner of battery box top.
Image:P10409.JPG|[[CAN-View]] screen.
</gallery>

====Photos from Chris Ewert's Conversion====
These are photos that [[User:Cewert]] has shared with us of his conversion via the CalCars [[PriusPlus]] method.
<gallery>
Image:Cutting Aluminum.JPG|Cutting the aluminum with a hacksaw
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All the pieces necessary for the battery trays
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|All the parts from the tray laid out
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Set Together Close Up.JPG|Close up of the battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Ready for Jig.JPG|Tray set together, ready for creating "jig"
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Starting to assemble the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|More assembling the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Getting the jig assembled
Image:Almost Finished Tray Jig.JPG|Mostly finished tray jig
Image:Dremel Drill Press.JPG|Dremel drill press used for drilling holes in angle irons
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in the aluminum, then countersunk
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Sample corner finished (done on scrap aluminum)
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
Image:2 Trays with Some Supports.JPG|Experimenting with the support angle irons
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
Image:Fuses and Holders.JPG|Fuses and holders
Image:Fuse in holder.JPG|A fuse in it's holder
Image:Bottom of JTN60060.JPG|Bottom of the fuse holder (for DIN rail mounting)
Image:EV200 Contactor.JPG|The Kilovac EV200 contactor
Image:P1240040.JPG|Battery Box sitting on steel tube
Image:Batt_Box_with_screw_lift_supports.JPG|Battery box sitting on steel tube with second tube for screw lift support
Image:Bracket_on_OEM_Batt_screw.JPG|Alt mounting method: modified hanger bolted into battery box mount
Image:Batt_box_test_fit_forward_design.JPG|Alt mounting method: Test fit of unfinished battery box top in forward location
Image:Charger_in_tirewell.JPG|Charger in tirewell
Image:Welded_angle_iron_1.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Alt_method_support_angle_irons.jpg|Support angle irons
Image:Right_side _battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Right side battery box supports
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Left side battery box supports
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Rubber pad under support angle irons
Image:Entire alt batt box mounting supports.jpg|Entire battery box mounting supports
Image:Electronics box being assembled.jpg|Electronics box being assembled
Image:Electronics Box Partial 1.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box Partial 2.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well.jpg|Installed electronics box and charger
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well 2.jpg|Installed electronics box with top on
Image:HVD1 in electronics box.jpg|Close up of HVD1 installed
Image:Contactors in electronics box.jpg|Close up of contactors installed
Image:Left side of electronics box.jpg|Left side of electronics box
Image:Right side of electronics box.jpg|Right side of electronics box
Image:Fuses in electronics box.jpg|Close up of fuses in electronics box
Image:Zivan NG3 Charger connected.jpg|Close up of ZiVan NG3 charger
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed front.jpg|Unstuffed control board - front
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed back.jpg|Unstuffed control board - back
Image:Batteries being installed 1.jpg|Batteries being installed
Image:Batteries being installed 2.jpg|More batteries
Image:Batt box top modified for alt mounting method.jpg|Battery box top (modified for alt. mounting)
Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|Bolt on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|Removing carpeting from on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|Removing the upright part of the rear seat
Image:OEM battery exposed.jpg|The OEM battery exposed
Image:Opening OEM battery.jpg|Opening the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside OEM battery from back of car.jpg|Inside the OEM battery (unmodified) from rear of car
Image:Inside OEM battery after tie in.jpg|Inside the OEM battery after HV tie-in
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery.jpg|Unmodified OEM battery low voltage wiring
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery modified.jpg|Modified OEM battery low voltage wiring (for charge interlock)


Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

====Photos from 2007 Maker Faire====
Some photos from the [[2007 Maker Faire]] conversion.
<gallery>

Image:Maker Faire 2007 1.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 2.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 3.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 4.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 5.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 6.jpg|


Image:IMG 1171.jpg|The Make Faire team: left to right, Ron Gremban, Jim Bernard, Carolyn Coquillete, Chris Ewert, Walt Ferris , Nick Rothman, Cody Jackson, Robb Protheroe, Tom Driscoll, Felix Kramer, Jim Philippi. Not shown: Randy Reisinger, Ailian Chong, Amanda Kovattana, Marc Geller, Fraser Smith.
Image:IMG 1179.jpg|Outside the building, at the main entrance to Maker Faire, the team posed Ron's car (world's first Prius conversion) and Felix's car (with Valence lithium-ion batteries)
Image:IMG 1154 2.jpg|Applying the vinyl lettering to Jim's car.
Image:IMG 1186.jpg|Securing the battery box frame to the body of the car.
Image:IMG 1187.jpg|The battery box fits above the battery and tilts up to allow access to the spare tire.
Image:IMG 1188.jpg|Last-minute wiring diagrams.
Image:IMG 1190.jpg|Our work-site had crowds all day Saturday and Sunday.
Image:IMG 1205.jpg|Installing components inside the battery box.
Image:IMG 1208.jpg|Custom-made circuit boards included.
Image:IMG 1215.jpg|The team worked late Sunday night to wrap up the project.

</gallery>

====Alternative Mounting Method====
This is very much a work-in-progress. There may be unresolved design flaws with this method. More details and photos to follow.

The battery box can optionally be mounted forward and lower which allows more components to be installed in the spare tire well, maximizing usable trunk space. The charger can be located below the battery pack, and the electronics and electrical wiring are lowered and partially under the battery pack. This method allows the conversion to be completely below the false floor and may also provide some benefit for stability and/or safety.

The four battery trays are assembled the same way as on the [[PriusPlus-Mechanical]] page. The trays are supported by 4 aluminum angle irons which sit on rubber mounts that sit directly on the steel trunk of the Prius. The supports are held in place by 2 steel angle irons bolted (or welded) to the trunk and 2 brackets anchoring into the OEM battery supports.

# 2 modified I-beam hangers (normally used for mounting electrical conduits to I-beams) are modified and bolted onto the supports for the battery box and both hold the forward most support angle iron in place (does not hold weight) and provides a bolt down point for the top of the battery box.
# All support angle irons are offset from the trunk of the car by rubber pads (about 1/4 inch thick)
# One of the pegs for mounting the OEM SmartKey sensor in the trunk can also be used to hold the forward most support angle in place.
# The middle 2 angles are bolted together on the ends and in the middle and are held in place by bolts from the battery box top.
# The rear most support angle is mounted by 2 1 1/2 inch steel angle irons welded to the trunk. Holes are drilled on the outside of where the trays sit and are bolted through the angle iron and the aluminum angle iron on both sides.
# Steel angle irons with a hole and a bolt welded (or bolted) to one side are used to provide mounting points for the battery box top.
# Battery box top bolts down into steel angle irons which are bolted onto the support angle irons. Front battery box top bolts down into modified I-beam hangers.

OEM battery support bolts are metric 8mm diameter, 1.25 thread bolts. A bolt with a 30mm length seems to be the ideal length for a replacement. The OEM bolts appear to be about 20mm in length.

The battery box cannot block easy access to the OEM orange emergency disconnect.

====Older PriusPlus Images====
Coming soon some photos from Rons original [[PriusPlus History]] conversion which may still be applicable to this project...

===General Reference Materials===
These are some other General Reference Materials we use elsewhere on the site. This is also an example of how to use references within the page text. See [[PiPrius conversion process]] for another example of a page with multiple reference tages.

* Prius Dismantle Manual <ref>[[Media:Priusdisman.pdf]] from http://www.airlabcorp.com/Prius/priusdisman.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:Stereo Accessory Install Guide 04 Prius v1.03.pdf]] from http://www.chrisdragon.com/downloads/Stereo%20Accessory%20Install%20Guide,%2004%20Prius,%20v1.03.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:PriusXMradio3.2.pdf]] from https://www.metrotpn.com/documents/PDF%20Files/Prius/Eddie's%20XMRadio%20Install/PriusXMradio3.2.pdf</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install without Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installNONAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install with Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installWNAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html</ref>

* [[Prius EV Mode Button]] Installation <ref>[[Media:Prius-evbutton-install.pdf]] from http://www.calcars.org/prius-evbutton-install.pdf</ref>

* Factory EV Mode Button <ref>[[Media:FactoryEV.pdf]] from http://www.scubadivervideo.com/Files/factoryEV.pdf</ref>

You should be familiar with these reference materials and standard operating procedures around high voltages.
<references/>

===ToDo===
Stuff to be imported/uploaded:

==Intro Editing Help==
===File Specific Help===
File link Examples, click the edit button for this section to see how it works.

====Text Links:====

* Using :Image takes you to the Images description page:
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* Using Media takes you directly to the file:
** [[Media:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* You can use a | to change the text of the link to something more descriptive.
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|Control Board]]

====Inline resized images:====

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300px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|300px]]

====Thumbnails:====

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|caption]]

* Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.

{{Clear}} The <nowiki>{{Clear}}</nowiki> template can be used to force empty white space after a thumbnail before continuing with the next block of text.

* A Second Example...
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|left|Small On Left]]
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Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.
'' Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''
''Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''

{{Clear}}

===General Help===

Intro Paragraph here maybe with a link to the main [[PriusPlus]] article, links to external sites can appear as formatted [http://www.calcars.com CalCars], just plain URLs like http://www.calcars.com, or fancy references such as that in the next paragraph.

Another Paragraph and such, you can get help at our [[Help:Contents#How do I use the Wiki Website]] page <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents more help using the wiki.</ref> Feel free to simply remove or if you like move all of this example text to the pages discussion article.

==A Major Topic==
Talking about the major topic.

===Sub Topic===
Yes, this is a sub topic

===Sub Topic number two===
You guessed it, another sub topic.

==References==
<references/>

PriusPlus-Instructions

2007-07-14T14:20:13Z

Cewert: /* Install Battery Box Foundation (Alternative Method) */ added diagram

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----
Welcome to the PriusPlus Do-It-Yourself documentation. Below you will find details on converting your 2004-2007 Prius to a plug-in hybrid via the [[PriusPlus]] method. The documentation is laid out in three parts. The [[PriusPlus]] gives an overview of the conversion and lists benefits, limitations and normal operating behavior. [[PriusPlus-Theory]] gives details the theory behind how the conversion works. The PriusPlus-Instructions page (this page) gives detailed, ordered instructions on how to convert your Prius yourself.

==Choosing a Mouting Method==
Before getting too far, you will need to decide on a mounting method. Currently, there are 2 methods, each with their benefits. The majority of the instructions are the same for both methods, however, some sections will be labeled as "classic mounting method" and others as "alternative mounting method" and contain instructions for the specific method.

===Classic Mounting Method===
The "Classic" method is the classic CalCars style. The spare tire well is largely unchanged, the batteries are placed in the very rear of the trunk, an electronics tray is placed in front of the batteries and the charger is placed in the left cubby hole (the carpeting in the cubby hole is cut back.) This method allows for easy access to all the electronics, including the charger.

<gallery>
Image:P10400.JPG|Classic method - spare tire well
Image:P10398.JPG|Classic method - charger
Image:Sven_car_finished_trunk_view.JPG|Finished trunk (top view)
</gallery>

===Alternative Mounting Method===
The "Alternative" method seeks to maximize usable trunk space and minimize visible changes. With this design, the batteries are moved as far forward as possible and the supporting electronics and charger are located in the spare tire well. The batteries stick up through the false floor, but are flush with the Prius's floor. Most of the high voltage electronics are isolated from the low voltage electronics, however some of the high voltage electronics and the charger are more difficult to access because they are below the batteries (they tend to be the more reliable parts, however.) The low voltage electronics are easily accessible.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well.jpg|Spare tire well
Image:Batteries_being_installed_2.jpg|Location of Batteries
Image:Finished Alt Mounting Method.jpg|Finished Product
</gallery>

==CAN-View & EV Mode button==
===Overview===
Start by installing CAN-View. CAN-View gives you insight into how the Prius works and it is best to have it installed before doing the conversion. Please see [[PriusPlus-Theory]] for more information on what [[CAN-View]] and [[Prius EV Mode Button]] do and how they work.

You will need to purchase [[CAN-View]] from [http://hybridinterfaces.ca hybridinterfaces.ca]. There are currently 4 versions of [[CAN-View]] available. Version 3 and 3plus require an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or [[MFD]]) while Version 4 and 4plus work with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) Version 4 has the PHEV relays built onto the main board, while version 3 has an extra optional PHEV relay board, which is required for this conversion. Version 3plus and 4plus feature a smart relay board which can interact with battery regulators. At the present, the PriusPlus conversion method does not make use of the smart relay features in the "plus" models.

===Installation===
Approx. time requirement: 45 minutes - 2 hours

The [[CAN-View]] is installed differently depending on whether or not your car is equipped with in-dash navigation. Detailed instructions with photos are available [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html with NAV] or [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html without NAV]. It is best to install and route the wires for the [[Prius EV Mode Button]] at the same time since they both require disassembling the dash.

'''ToDo''' the following section is shared with the [[PiPrius_conversion_process#CAN-View_.26_EV_Mode_Button]] documentation. Any changes should be generic enough to satisfy both, place project specific notes above or below it. Another set of instructions may be needed for the CAN-View Version 4 which does not integrate with the OEM [[MFD]] and gets power directly from the OBDII port, [http://priuschat.com/index.php?act=ST&f=62&t=27906 Prius CAN View V4 Mounting options] at PriusChat.com covers various ways of mounting the second touch screen.

{{Prius CAN-ViewV3 & EV-Mode Button}}

==Battery Tray Construction==
===Overview===
The next step is to start constructing the mechanical components which will be used in the conversion. The battery trays are where the new lead-acid (PbA) batteries will sit. The trays will then be mounted on rails in the trunk and a top will be placed over it to secure the batteries down. The battery trays are the same for both the classic and alternative mounting methods.

Approx. Time Requirement: 10-12 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits: 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 7/32
* Hacksaw with metal blade (or other method of cutting 1/8 inch aluminum)
* Drill or Dremel
* Drill or Dremel press recommended
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Wood saw
* Pop riveting tool
* Grinder (either an attachment for Dremel or bench grinder)

===Parts needed===
* Aluminum material
** Either 3/4" or 1" by 1/8" thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections, 1x 4 foot section)
** 1/4" Aluminum channel iron (1x 8 foot section, 1x 4 foot section)
* 32 5/32 thick, 1/4 inch grip pop rivets
* 32 #4 flat head self threading screws at least 1/2 inch long
* Small piece of plywood for making jig (optional, but makes things easier.)
* Small pieces of wood for making jig (optional)
* Wood screws (optional)

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 sections of the 1/4" aluminum channel iron to the exact length of the batteries (should be 7 1/16 inches.) Having the batteries actually present is important for measuring. A total of 16 of these pieces will be required for all 4 trays.
# Lay out 5 batteries and put the 1/4" aluminum channel irons between the batteries. Measure out the length and cut 2 sections of the aluminum angle irons to the length of the batteries (should be 16 5/16 inches.) A total of 8 of these sections will be required for all 4 trays. See photos below for how to layout the pack.
# Layout 5 batteries with the angle irons from above and measure the width and cut the 2 end pieces (should be 7 1/4 inches.) A total of 8 of these pieces will be required for all 4.
# Lay everything out on top of a piece of plywood and double check measurements with batteries set in the tray as shown below. It is important that the end pieces are under the pieces that run along the length of the tray.
# Screw down blocks of wood around outside of the frame as shown to hold the outside angle irons exactly where they are.
# Remove the batteries one by one and put in pieces of wood where the batteries were to hold frame and aluminum channel irons in place. This jig will hold all the pieces together while drilling.
# Using a small drill press or preferably a Dremel drill press, drill 2 3/32" holes into each corner (or probably only one if using 3/4" angle irons.)
# Once the holes are drilled, remove the top angle iron (the 16 5/16 inch one) and using a 1/8" drill bit, widen the holes so that the #4 screws can pass through them freely (only do this on the longer angle iron, not the bottom!) Then counter-sink with a 7/32" drill bit so that the screw will sit flush in the aluminum (see photo below.)
# Put in #4 self threading screws. The screws should grab into the smaller angle iron and hold the angle irons together firmly. The screws will stick out the other side.
# Using a cutoff attachment on a Dremel (or a hacksaw, but Dremel works much better), cut the screws off. Then grind them down flat using the cut off attachment on a Dremel or a bench grinder.
# Re-insert the finished angle iron frame into jig, and place channel irons in place. Drill 5/32" holes at each end.
# Using a pop-riveting tool, insert 5/32" aluminum rivets into the channel irons from the bottom and tighten.
# Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 trays.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All necessary cut aluminum pieces for 4 trays
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Tray set together with batteries
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|Tray parts laid out
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Place wood around tray frame
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in aluminum
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Finished corner with screws in
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Classic Method)==
Approx. Time Requirement:

===Overview===
The battery box supports are what the battery trays will sit on. In the classic method, aluminum angle irons are bolted onto 2 steel tubes which are bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the alternative method, skip this section and goto the next section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 2 3 foot long 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch steel tubes.
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length may be slightly long, you will probably need to adjust the length when mounting!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly. This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Cut the steel tubes to the appropriate length ('''Todo''' Get exact length)
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays for a 1/4" nut.
# Mark the locations where the aluminum angles sit on the steel tube and drill holes.
# Drill holes in the opposite side of the steel tube, big enough to fit the head of a bolt through
# Drill 2 additional holes in each steel tube in the middle of where each tray will sit. Again, drill out the other side so a nut can be fit through it. Then put a threaded 5/8" threaded rod through the hole and put a nut on each side (and a lockwasher on one side.) This will serve as the holddown for the battery box top.
# Drill 4 holes through the tube, evenly spaced over the entire length. These holes are for mounting the battery box frame to the car.
# Drill additional holes as needed to support the electronics tray
# Once holes are all drilled, coat the steel tube with anti-rust paint / spraypaint.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:P1240040.JPG|The completed battery box sitting on steel tubes (unattached)
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Top_Battery_Box_With_Corner_Bracket.JPG|During construction, shows supports without optional strip in center.
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Alternative Method)==
[[Image:Alt Mounting Diagram.png|thumb|The alternative mounting method diagram]]
Approx. Time Requirement: 4-7 hours

===Overview===
In the alternative mounting method, the battery trays sit on aluminum angle irons which either sit directly on the trunk or on rubber pads (which allow the use of battery heaters.) The battery box is supported by brackets attached to the OEM battery mouting screws and two steel angle irons bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the classic mounting method, skip this section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)
* Bench grinder

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 16 inches of steel 1 1/2 inch angle iron
* 2 joist hangers for electrical conduit
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts
* 1/4" nuts
* 1/4" or 1/8" rubber pads (optional, but required if heating pads are to be installed.)
* anti-rust paint or spraypaint

===Assembly Steps===
===The center strip===
# See the diagram to the right to see how everything assembles.
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length is too long, you will need to adjust the length when mounting, so be careful drilling holes, test fit first!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly (for strength). This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Lay out 2 aluminum angles so they form a "T" with the top of the "T" being on the floor. Optionaly insert the aluminum strip into the middle
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays in the middle for a 1/4" nut.
# Drill holes through each end of the assembly to anchor the two angles (and optionally the strip) together. The holes must be outside where the battery trays will sit (remember to leave space for a 1/4" nut (which is larger than 1/4")
# Optionally, cut rubber pads to go under each of the aluminum angles.
# Other holes will need to be drilled later when ready to mount.

===Steel Angle Iron Brackets===
# Cut 4 sections of steel angle iron about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long
# Drill a 3/8" hole in the center on one side of the angle iron.
# On the inside of the angle iron, weld (or use JB weld or another strong epoxy) a 5/8" nut on the inside so a bolt can go through the angle iron and into the nut
# Drill a 5/8" hole in the center of the other side of the angle iron
# Paint the steel with a clean metal anti-rust primer (then allow to dry)
# Spray or paint the primed steel with anti-rust paint

===Steel Supports===
# Cut 2 sections of steel angle iron about 4 inches long each
# Drill 2 5/8" holes in the bottom of the angle iron
# These will be used later for mounting into the Prius - the rest of the assembly must be done later

'''Todo''' This isn't finished - check the diagram for more details

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Alt method support angle irons.jpg|Test fitting in the Prius
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Support Steel mounted
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Shows the optional rubber pads
Image:Right_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the right side
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the left side
Image:Entire_alt_batt_box_mounting_supports.jpg|With the battery trays in
</gallery>

==Battery Box Top==
Approx. Time Requirement: 10 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits:
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade very helpful (must be capable of 45 degree angles.)
* Tablesaw with Plexiglass blade, or other method of cutting Plexiglass
* Drill
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Dremmel
* Cutoff attachment for Dremmel

===Parts Needed===
* Aluminum material
** 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
** 1 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (1x 4 foot sections for classic - 8 feet for the alternative mounting method)
* Corner brackets - can be found at Mennards in shelving hardware section
* 24x #8-32 flat head machine screws
* 16x #8-32 nuts
* 8x #8-32 x 1/4 inch binding posts
* 1/4 inch Plexiglass or (preferably) Lexan sheet, at least 33 inches by 18.5 inches.
* 4 small non-conductive nylon screw and binding posts (for holding Plexiglass "shields")

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 2 strips of Plexiglass (or Lexan) 32.5 inches by 1.5 inches. These peices will act as a sheild between the battery terminals and the aluminum (to prevent shorts.)
# Cut opposing 45 degree angle at the end of 2 of the 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron peices to form one of the corners.
# Layout the four trays in the frame angle irons (important for getting correct measurements.)
# Place 4 batteries in the trays, one in each corner (see photo.)
# Place electrical tape over the terminals on the batteries to help prevent any arcs.
# Make sure to leave space for the middle bolt down and bolts for the frame. (The battery box base isn't finished yet and requires space in the middle.)
# Set one of the cut angle irons on top of the batteries (be sure not to arc the batteries!) Place the Plexiglass "Shield" in place and use clamps to it there. This allows for accurate measurements.
# Lay the other angle iron with the opposing 45 degree angle out and measure the width & cut with a 45 degree angle (end peice should be about 15 3/8 inches wide.)
# Hold the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top to the end of the battery pack (use clamps to hold it on.) For the classic mounting method, this is only required on the left and right sides. For the alternative mouting method, the angles should go around the entire battery box top.
# Holding the angle irons and bolt down angle iron right where they should be, set the corner bracket on the corner and make sure that it covers the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the battery box.
# Mark where the holes on the top of the bracket are on the angle iron (or drill holes if necessary.)
# Using the Dremmel cutoff tool, cut down the binding post so that it does not stick all the way thought the bracket if set on top (see picture.)
# Drill a hole in the angle iron and countersink it so that the #8 flat top machine screw fits flush. Put screw in and repeate for the other angle iron.
# Repeate for other sides cutting the angle irons to the right lengths. The length of the angle iron on the side of the battery box should be 34 inches.
# To strengthen the structure of the top, drill holes in from the sides, countersink from the inside and bolt using #8 flat head screws and nuts (bolting the top down is important, remember that the top must hold weight if the car goes over large bumps or is involved in an accident or rollover.)
# Using a drill press or drill, drill through the Plexiglass on the side and the aluminum angle irons near the edges. Countersink the hole in the Plexiglass and insert non-conductive nylon screws and binding posts to hold Plexiglass in place.
# Using the Dremmel with cutoff attachment, grind off the bolts that are sticking out.
# Cut the Plexiglass sheet to the correct length and width to fit snuggly into the top of the battery box.
# Holes need to be drilled into the bolt down angle irons on each side, but I don't have those measurements and it depends how it is bolted down. Holes also need to be drilled in the middle on each aluminum angle iron to clamp down the top to the bottom of the battery box for extra strength.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
</gallery>

===Tips===
* If you are buying a new metal cutoff blade for an existing chopsaw, make sure to get one that is large enough to actually cut all the way through the metal with your specific chopsaw.
* Aluminum blades with small teeth do not seem to work well for cutting through 1/8 aluminum angle irons! They grab and tend to throw the saw and are almost impossible to control. Don't attempt an aluminum cutting blade with teeth on a radial saw!
* A hacksaw can work in place of the metal cutoff blade, however it is much more difficult to get straight cuts, even with a metal guide for the hacksaw.
* A jig saw seems to work well for cutting the aluminum angle irons

==Control Board==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|Control Board, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBd_layout.png|right|thumb|250px|Control Board Layout]]
Approx. time requirement: 6-8 hours

'''A few issues have been found with the posted version of the control board schematics. The new version will be posted shortly with a corrected parts list.'''

===Tools Needed===
* Soldering Iron
* Solder

===Parts Needed===
See the [[PriusPlus-PartsList]] page for the complete parts list and an easy order DigiKey link.

===Assembly Steps===
Solder the components to the printed board according to the schematics above. Make sure to install R3, D1 & D2 1/4 inches off the board and to solder the DIP sockets without the IC's installed. If new at soldering, make sure to use a heat sink for soldering transistors.

==LED Board==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|LED Board, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
Approx. time requirement: 2 hours

===Tools Needed===
* Soldering Iron
* Solder

===Parts Needed===
See the [[PriusPlus-PartsList]] page for the parts list.

'''Todo''' The schematics need to be updated to match new schematics.

==Electronic/Electric Sub Part Construction==
===Diode===
The diode must be firmly and correctly mounted to the heatsink. The diode has a 1/4" stud which passes through the heatsink but does not touch the heatsink. A shoulder or insulating nylon tube must be placed over the stud where the diode passes through the heatsink. This is important so the diode does not electrically make contact with the heatsink. Additionally, 2 electrically insulating, but thermally conductive pads (or mica) must be used on both sides of the heatsink to prevent the diode from making contact on either side of the heatsink. See photos below for how to mount the diode:

====Photos====
<gallery>
Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
</gallery>

===Snubbers===
Solder together one lead of the .47uF, 500V capacitor and one lead of the 22 ohm 1 watt resistor. Put heat shrink tubing around the other 2 leads and crimp on ring terminals and solder the crimps to the leads for a better connection. The snubbers are then placed across the two contactors.

===Low Voltage Interconnects===
A list of helpful Molex connector tools on DigiKey can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014151 here].

'''Todo'''

==Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
[[Image:Electronics Tray Classic.png|thumb|Electronics Tray diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help''' Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut the bottom, back, sides. Cut holes in the fans on the sides, and use small shelving brackets to secure the pieces together. Attach electronic components with screws. Plexiglass top.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:P10380.JPG|The electronics tray
</gallery>

==Electronics Box (Alternative)==
[[Image:Electronics Box Alternative.png|thumb|Electronics Box diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help'''. Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut a bottom, sides, back, front, middle divider, fan divider, and rear top. The front top is 1/4" plexiglass for easy viewing (or more ABS if preferred.) The fan divider is designed to be easily retractable for easy replacement without removing the battery box. Mount the fuse holders with 2 screws in the middle, the contactors, power supply, relays, etc. Preferably use very short self tapping screws that don't go through the plastic to provide electrical isolation from the rest of the car (optional.) It may be useful to use a Dremmel with a small drill bit to star the hole, use the self tapping screw to start the thread and then use a cutoff small screw. Otherwise, countersink a flat head screw on the outside of the box and use nuts and lock washers on the inside.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics Box Assembly - Side Vents.jpg|Starting with the materials
Image:Electronics_box_being_assembled.jpg|The electronics box taped together
Image:Electronics Box Assembly Mounting Components.jpg|Components being mounted
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_1.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_2.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:HVD1_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the diode
Image:Left_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Left outside of electronics box
Image:Right_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Right outside of the electronics box
Image:Contactors_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted contactors
Image:Fuses_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted fuses
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well_2.jpg|The electronics box with the HV section's cover resting on top
</gallery>

==Installation Into the Prius==
Now that the sub components are built, it is time to start installing things into the Prius. The following sections will each attempt to leave the Prius in a drivable state after the section is completed.

=Disassembling the Prius=
==Remove user-removable parts==
'''Todo''' This needs to be finished
Remove the false floor, the central storage bin, side storage bin and spare tire.

==Battery Carpet & Seat Removal==
{| align=right
| [[Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|thumb|These bolts must be taken out]]
|| [[Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|thumb|Shows the carpeting being removed from the OEM battery]]
|| [[Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|thumb|right|Removing the bolts for the rear seats]]
|}
Remove the two bolts holding down the carpeting over the OEM battery. Be sure to keep them in a plastic bag so they do not get lost. Then lift up on the Velcro attaching to the rear seats. Then, simply pull straight up on the carpeting assembly. It will snap out and expose the top of the OEM battery. There are 2 carpeting clips that must be removed to fully remove the cover from the OEM battery.

With the OEM battery carpeting removed (or the Velcro simply pulled up), remove the two bolts holding in the seat. The seat back then comes out giving access to the front side of the OEM battery (needed for the OEM tie-in.)

==Side panel Removal==
Both of the carpeted side panels in the rear of the Prius must be removed. The driver's side panel must be removed to access the OEM battery for tie-in, and the passenger's side must be removed to access the OEM battery fan to add the override wiring.
# Remove the screen from the trunk (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the cover from the driver's side storage cubby hole (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the black strip in the very rear of the trunk (where the latch is for the trunk) by simply lifting straight up (it will pop out.)
# Remove the arm rest sections on the outside of the seats ('''Todo - add photos''')
# Remove the 10mm bolt inside the screen holder using a ratchet with an extension
# Remove the 10mm bolt in the back of the side panel in the section which holds the screen if were deployed. This can be done with a 10mm ratchet or a screwdriver.
# Pull straight out on the entire assembly.
# On the drivers side, there is a wire which connects to the trunk lamp which needs to be disconnected.
# Repeat instructions for the passenger's side.

==Routing CAN-View cables to trunk==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be improved.

Take off the kick panels on either the driver's side or passenger's side, insert CAN-View cable, ribbon cable (for LED board) and EV mode cable (1 wire) and route into trunk.

==Air Vents (Classic Method)==
Remove spare tire and the two black drain plugs that sit in the tire well. You may have to use a dremmel to open the hole so you can drop in the [Delete later-(Ron I think I found a piece of conduit that will flush mount in here. The PVC pipe can be glued to it. I’ll get you a part number and picture. By doing this a project could be prepped weeks in advance and the spare will still fit in there until the final conversion days.) ] 2” PVC threaded coupling. Next connect the 2” 90 deg. Elbow and then a length of 2” PVC pipe per this photo (add photo showing underside of car with both pipes pointing back to the rear.)

==Installing the Outlet Box (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''Please help us finish this section! Write chris at infolaunch.com to help and for the 120 volt wiring schematics that need to be posted here.'''

Take a standard plastic wall 4 gang outlet box, route a 12/3 cable into the box (with strain relief), and wire one duplex (2 individual outlets) directly to the incoming power. Then wire one outlet of the other duplex through one relay, and the other through the second relay (such that the outlets are on only when the relays are on.) The 2 individual outlets controlled by relays are designed for heating pads for the OEM battery and the PHEV battery pack. The other 2, always on when plugged in outlets are designed to power the charger and the power supply.

==Install Charger / Electronics Box (Alternative Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded.

'''Todo''' Add relevant photos from RawData page

Take a sheet of zinc coated steel and cut it out so that it fits neatly in the bottom of the tire well. Drill a hole in the center where the spare tire screw goes (used to hold the sheet in place.) Then, place the charger in the back, behind the center hole. It may be necessary to use pipe or washers to offset the charger from the steel sheet an inch or so to get it to fit (depends on charger used.) Drill holes through the steel sheet and mount charger to it. Then, put a thin carpet or sturdy insulation on the underside of the steel sheet to prevent rattling while driving. It may be necessary to use a 3/4" small block of wood with a hole through the middle to offset the center of the steel where the screw goes into the tire well mount to keep the steel from bending / rattling while driving. The screw is metric. Then, using several strips of extra strength velcro, velcro the bottom of the electronics box to the steel sheet.

==Install Batt. Box Foundation / Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
Line up the battery box support steel tubes where they should go and drill holes into the trunk floor. It may be necessary to remove part or all of the heat shielding from the muffler on the underside of the car to find the holes. Bolt down.

('''Todo''' Need to detail removing the heat shield on the underside of the car.)
To remove the plastic shield on the driver's side rear of the car, use a flat screw driver to pop out the 3 fasteners. On the back of the shield there is a 10mm bolt holding the plastic shield in place which also needs to be removed.

==Install Battery Box Foundation (Alternative Method)==
[[Image:Alt Mounting Diagram.png|thumb|The alternative mounting method diagram]]

'''Todo''' This needs to be better documented

Remove the two bolts holding down the OEM battery in that stick out into the tire well. Mount the modified I beam brackets so that the back with the screw hole is facing directly towards the back of the car. Drill a hole in the rear support aluminum angle iron to match with those screw holes, countersink a flat screw into that. (see diagram and photos for details on how everything goes together.) On the driver's side, drill a hole through the aluminum for the post on the SKS sensor. The middle section just sits on the steel floor, though bolts into the Prius body may be a good idea. (its held in primarily by the battery box top, but extra strength in the event of a crash would be good.) The rear piece needs to have holes drilled in the Prius steel floor and the steel angle irons (see diagram) bolted to either the steel floor or to the frame member below them off to the side a bit. If bolting to the steel floor, a steel strip on the opposite side should be used, and at least 2 bolts should be used for added strength.

==OEM Battery Fan Control Tap==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|Fan Control, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
'''Todo''' Upload new version of schematic

Taps must be added to force the OEM fan on at lower temperatures so the car can remain in EV mode.

The tapping is done at the OEM battery fan. You reach it by taking the right rear inner body panel off (instructions in the Toyota service manual), reaching up inside the ducting, above the right rear wheelwell, and unplugging the power plug to the fan. The plug is not visible; you must unplug it (and plug it in again) by feel. The plug has two light green wires attached to one pin, and two violet wires attached to the other.

Use #18 or larger wires for all of the following. All three wires are run down to the control board, then the OEM battery plug is plugged back into the fan.

Alternative 1: Attach a green wire to one or both of the light green wires, e.g. via a red clip-on wire splice (make sure it makes solid contact). Then cut both of the violet wires about 2" from the OEM battery fan plug. Splice a violet wire onto both of the violet wires that were cut off, and a black wire to one or both of the violet wires still attached to the plug. Splice all three (1N5402, 1N5403, or 1N5404) 3A diodes in parallel as shown, between the violet and black wires near the fan plug, with the cathode (the end with the band) connected to the violet wire. For proper heat dissipation, make sure that the leads and all connections are well insulated, that the body of each diode is open to air flow, and that the diodes are not pressed against each other, and that the whole assembly, when the plug is plugged in, is solidly suspended in mid-air. Three 3A diodes are used in parallel for a maximum of 5A because heat dissipation may be compromised even when installed as above. The other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

<gallery>
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

Alternative 2 (does not cut Prius wires, but is expensive): Buy two each of the following Toyota replacement OEM battery plug and mating pins:
OEM battery fan plug pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12380
OEM battery fan plug mating pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12370
Splice one plug pin, a mating pin, and a green wire together. Splice a black wire to a plug pin, and a violet wire to a mating pin. Splice the three 1N5402 diodes between the violet and black wires as described above. Now remove the pin with the light green wires from the OEM battery fan plug, connect it to the mating pin with the green wire attached, and secure with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the green wire into the OEM battery fan plug. Next, remove the pin with the violet wires from the OEM battery plug and connect it to the mating pin with the violet wire attached, again securing it with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the black wire into the OEM battery fan plug. The pins are removed one at a time so that there is no possibility of getting them reversed when inserting the new pins. As above, the other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

The pins can be removed from the OEM battery fan plug by inserting a tiny screwdriver from the back to push the plastic catch aside while pulling on the wire attached to the pin.

==Safety Warning & Tips==
Batteries can be dangerous and can cause serious injury or death and should only be worked on by persons qualified to do so. Both energy hazards from arcs (shorts) and electrical shock can cause serious injury or be fatal with a battery pack of this size. Battery packs are always live and cannot be shut off! The following are safety tips to help prevent arcs and shocks, but they are only tips and should not be taken as a go-ahead to perform work on battery packs. Extreme caution must be taken as it is very easy to accidentally set something on the battery without thinking or drop something and cause a shock or arc. Hire a qualified electrician to help for this part if there is any doubt.

* Remove all jewelry, especially gold, before working with batteries.
* Do not allow metal to come into contact with the batteries that could cause an arc (best practice is to not allow any metal near the battery at all.
* Use only fully insulated tools around batteries, especially in tight spaces (available in the electrical department in most hardware stores.)
* When wiring batteries, be sure the other end of the wire will not accidentally come into contact with any other part of the battery or metal frames. Taping or otherwise protecting the ends of wires is recommended.
* Wear rated rubber electricians gloves and outer protective gloves. Electricians gloves are not fail-proof and every effort should be made to only touch insulated tools even when wearing gloves.
* If electrician gloves aren't used, only one hand should be used so that a shock will not pass current through the heart.
* Always wear gloves when working on batteries (preferably rubber.)
* Install the jumpers in 48 volt sections and then connect those smaller sections together at the very end. This way voltages higher than 48 volts are only handled when installing 4 jumpers instead of 16.
* Even though the batteries are sealed, it is still possible for them to leak and splatter acid, especially if they are just charged, heated or an arc occurs. If a leak occurs, use baking soda to neutralize the acid and properly dispose. Eye protection is a good idea.
* Orient batteries in the tray to avoid terminal contact with any bolts or any metal pieces.

==Tapping into OEM Battery==
{{Disclaimer}}

This step '''MUST''' be performed by someone qualified to work on high voltage systems. Rated rubber electricians gloves should be used for working on the inside of the battery. Please fully read the Safety section before before attempting anything. Lethal voltages are present. Hire a qualified professional for this portion.

'''Todo: This section is not finished'''

Tools needed
* Voltmeter (capable of at least 300 volts DC)
* Ratchet

Parts needed
* 3 #6 AWG ring terminal crimps (an extra is good)
* 2 #8 AWG ring terminal crimps (extras are good)
* small 1 foot section of 6 AWG wire (with insulation rated 600v or higher, preferably THHN)
* non-conductive rubber cap
* electrical tape
* several feet of #8 AWG wire with insulation rated 600v or higher
* optional: 3/8" flex tubing
* optional: other flexible conduit

# Before attempting to open the OEM battery, the orange service disconnect '''MUST''' be fully removed from the OEM battery. To do this, lift up on the orange ring. Once it pops up, push the top part out, away from the battery. This will remove the service disconnect from the battery. Do not re-install the service disconnect until the OEM battery has been closed up. '''BE AWARE, THERE ARE STILL HIGH, LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE THE BATTERY EVEN THOUGH THE DISCONNECT HAS BEEN REMOVED!'''
# Take off the support holding the OEM battery in place. The bolts are found on the driver's side wheel well, on the OEM battery and behind the driver's side rear seat top (the seat top must be removed, see above for information on removing the seat back.)
# Carefully remove the bolts holding the cover on the driver's side of the OEM battery. The 2 bolts will need to be removed from where the orange cables come out of the battery to remove the cover. '''DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE'''
# Once opened, just beyond where the two orange wires enter the OEM battery there are 2 contactors with 2 white plastic shields on top. '''NEVER TOUCH THE TWO TERMINALS AT THE SAME TIME''' Using rated, insulated electrician's rubber gloves remove one of the white plastic pieces by lifting straight up. Using a voltmeter, test the DC voltage between the contactor terminal and ground. If voltage is present (often > 100 volts DC) keep the multimeter on the terminal until the voltage decreases to below 1 volt. '''After''' that has been done on one, remove the other white plastic piece and repeat for the other side. Then check the voltage between all of the contactor terminals (all 4) to ensure they are zero. '''This step must be repeated any time the orange service plug has been inserted into the battery to ensure safety.
# Disconnect the negative wire coming from the OEM battery from the contactor. It is the one fed through the hall effect sensor (see photo.) The wire must be removed from the hall effect sensor.
# Take the piece of 6AWG wire with a 6AWG ring connector firmly attached at both ends and feed it through the hall effect sensor and connect it to the contactor where you just removed the OEM negative battery wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Feed in the new #8 AWG wire from the electronics tray through the opening where the 2 orange wires come through. Attach a #8 AWG ring connector to the wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Bolt the #6 wire from the negative contactor, the negative wire from the OEM battery and the negative #8 AWG (black) wire from the electronics tray together as shown using a lockwasher (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Then wrap tightly with electrical tape (preferably orange), so that the entire assembly is covered with several layers of tape.
# Place a rubber cap on the top and wrap the rubber assembly in tape and attach firmly to the rest of the wire.
# Next, crimp on a #8 AWG ring terminal to the #8 Red wire coming from the electronics tray.
# Remove the bolt on the positive contactor's terminal and add the #8 AWG wire as shown (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Replace the white insulators that came off the top of the contactors
# Route the wire in the same way as the black wire out area where the 2 orange wires run
# Make sure there is a little slack wire inside the OEM battery. Then, optionally wrap the 3/8" flex tubing around the 2 new wires to the electronics tray and wrap them in orange electrical tape (orange is keeping in standard for high voltage wiring in hybrids.)
# '''Before reconnecting anything, be absolutely sure that the other end of the high voltage wires are fully insulated (i.e., make sure the Anderson PP75 connectors are on and that there is electrical tape preventing them from accidentally contacting any metal.'''
# Tap a yellow #22 or larger wire onto the yellow low voltage wire going to one of the contactors and route to the electronics tray or box.
'''Todo''' Add a photo of the yellow READY wire.

<gallery>
Image:OEM_battery_exposed.jpg|The OEM battery with the support bracket removed
Image:Opening_OEM_battery.jpg|Removing the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_after_tie_in.jpg|After the OEM battery tie in is done
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_from_back_of_car.jpg|Shows the 2 white insulators on the contactors
</gallery>

==Tap into the 12v Accessory Battery==
Run 4 18 AWG wires (2 red, 2 black) from the electronics tray or box to the 12 volt accessory battery (located under the passenger side cubby hole. The 2 red wires should run into a 15 amp 32volt automotive fuse. The other side of the fuse should go to the 12v accessory battery. The black wire should either goto the black terminal on the battery or the chassis (but it must be a very clean connection to the chassis.) The other side of the wires goes to the control board through a .156" Molex KK connector.

==Reassemble the Prius Trunk==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written

==Connecting the PbA batteries==
'''Todo''' Much work needed yet

===Parts Needed===
* Qty 50 8 AWG crimp on ring terminals (probably wise to get a few extra!)
* 8 AWG wire (list total length used here.)
* Orange electrical tape
* 20x BB Battery EVP20-12B 12volt 20ah SLA AGM batteries (2 spares recommended.)

===Assembly Steps===
{{Disclaimer}}

'''Warning: Get an electrician or qualified person to do this, this is working with high voltages which can be lethal or start fires if not taken seriously.'''

Place trays in the foundation and the batteries in trays (look at photos on RawData page to see sequence.) Using crimp on ring terminals, make lengths of wire long enough to connect batteries and crimp the ring terminals on well. Make sure the crimps are very tight and make good contact. This is very important because they could otherwise heat up extremely hot and melt or start a fire. The batteries are arranged electrically into 4 60v sections. The front section and rear section are separated by one of the 60 amp 300v fuses (see HV schematics.) Each other section is separated by Anderson PP75 connectors for easy disconnect. Sections should be assembled individually to prevent voltages from being more than 60 volts until everything is ready to be connected and assembled. Leave the fuses disconnected until everything is finished. Then put on the battery box top and bolt it down.

==Optional Bumper Mounted Inlet==
This is an optional replacement for the mounted cord reel. There may be other inlets available, but a Marinco 150CCI works well and costs about $25-$30.

# Remove the plastic shield on the driver's side of the car if it hasn't been already (see above for instructions.)
# Using a circular drill bit with starting drill bit, drill a 1 7/8" hole in the bumper where you want the inlet to be mounted.
# Route the cable to the inlet before installing the inlet.
# Fasten the inlet to the bumper

==Optional Mounted Cord Reel (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written by someone who knows how to do this.

==The First Tests==
'''Todo''' This needs much more work

First, using a voltmeter check to make sure that voltages are present both from the OEM battery (should be 220v or so) and from the PHEV pack (should be around 260v.) Plug the car into a ground faulted (preferably also arc faulted) outlet and check to see if the car starts to charge the PHEV battery.

Power up the car very briefly and check to see if the control board turns on. With CAN-View in ORIG mode (not PHEV), make sure that HVRL1 and HVRL2 are both off. Some LEDs should be on on the LED board.

==Programming CAN-View/Control Board==

'''Todo''' Polish this description and format nicely like Ryan's PiPrius ones.

Set the dip switches on the control board:
DIPSW1: 1=OFF, 2=OFF, 3=ON, 4=ON, 5=ON [ HVRL1 = RL3 OR RL5 OR RL6 ] (RL2 will be reserved to force the OEM battery fan ON)
DIPSW1: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control the optional current-limiting power resistor)
DIPSW2: 1-5=OFF (later, 2=ON will force the OEM battery fan ON when RL2 is ON)
DIPSW2: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control a "Future use #1" output)

RL2 [settings don't yet matter]

For highway driving:
RL3 ON < 71 OFF > 73 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON 25 OFF < 30 Acl (Amps DCL)
ON > 45 OFF < 40 MPH
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
3 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

To stay in EV mode during acceleration:
RL5 ON < 200 OFF > 235V
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? YES

For low speeds, to promote EV mode driving:
RL6 ON < 61 OFF > 63 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

{{Disclaimer}}

PriusPlus-Instructions

2007-07-14T14:17:54Z

Cewert: /* Control Board */ cleanup

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----
Welcome to the PriusPlus Do-It-Yourself documentation. Below you will find details on converting your 2004-2007 Prius to a plug-in hybrid via the [[PriusPlus]] method. The documentation is laid out in three parts. The [[PriusPlus]] gives an overview of the conversion and lists benefits, limitations and normal operating behavior. [[PriusPlus-Theory]] gives details the theory behind how the conversion works. The PriusPlus-Instructions page (this page) gives detailed, ordered instructions on how to convert your Prius yourself.

==Choosing a Mouting Method==
Before getting too far, you will need to decide on a mounting method. Currently, there are 2 methods, each with their benefits. The majority of the instructions are the same for both methods, however, some sections will be labeled as "classic mounting method" and others as "alternative mounting method" and contain instructions for the specific method.

===Classic Mounting Method===
The "Classic" method is the classic CalCars style. The spare tire well is largely unchanged, the batteries are placed in the very rear of the trunk, an electronics tray is placed in front of the batteries and the charger is placed in the left cubby hole (the carpeting in the cubby hole is cut back.) This method allows for easy access to all the electronics, including the charger.

<gallery>
Image:P10400.JPG|Classic method - spare tire well
Image:P10398.JPG|Classic method - charger
Image:Sven_car_finished_trunk_view.JPG|Finished trunk (top view)
</gallery>

===Alternative Mounting Method===
The "Alternative" method seeks to maximize usable trunk space and minimize visible changes. With this design, the batteries are moved as far forward as possible and the supporting electronics and charger are located in the spare tire well. The batteries stick up through the false floor, but are flush with the Prius's floor. Most of the high voltage electronics are isolated from the low voltage electronics, however some of the high voltage electronics and the charger are more difficult to access because they are below the batteries (they tend to be the more reliable parts, however.) The low voltage electronics are easily accessible.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well.jpg|Spare tire well
Image:Batteries_being_installed_2.jpg|Location of Batteries
Image:Finished Alt Mounting Method.jpg|Finished Product
</gallery>

==CAN-View & EV Mode button==
===Overview===
Start by installing CAN-View. CAN-View gives you insight into how the Prius works and it is best to have it installed before doing the conversion. Please see [[PriusPlus-Theory]] for more information on what [[CAN-View]] and [[Prius EV Mode Button]] do and how they work.

You will need to purchase [[CAN-View]] from [http://hybridinterfaces.ca hybridinterfaces.ca]. There are currently 4 versions of [[CAN-View]] available. Version 3 and 3plus require an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or [[MFD]]) while Version 4 and 4plus work with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) Version 4 has the PHEV relays built onto the main board, while version 3 has an extra optional PHEV relay board, which is required for this conversion. Version 3plus and 4plus feature a smart relay board which can interact with battery regulators. At the present, the PriusPlus conversion method does not make use of the smart relay features in the "plus" models.

===Installation===
Approx. time requirement: 45 minutes - 2 hours

The [[CAN-View]] is installed differently depending on whether or not your car is equipped with in-dash navigation. Detailed instructions with photos are available [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html with NAV] or [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html without NAV]. It is best to install and route the wires for the [[Prius EV Mode Button]] at the same time since they both require disassembling the dash.

'''ToDo''' the following section is shared with the [[PiPrius_conversion_process#CAN-View_.26_EV_Mode_Button]] documentation. Any changes should be generic enough to satisfy both, place project specific notes above or below it. Another set of instructions may be needed for the CAN-View Version 4 which does not integrate with the OEM [[MFD]] and gets power directly from the OBDII port, [http://priuschat.com/index.php?act=ST&f=62&t=27906 Prius CAN View V4 Mounting options] at PriusChat.com covers various ways of mounting the second touch screen.

{{Prius CAN-ViewV3 & EV-Mode Button}}

==Battery Tray Construction==
===Overview===
The next step is to start constructing the mechanical components which will be used in the conversion. The battery trays are where the new lead-acid (PbA) batteries will sit. The trays will then be mounted on rails in the trunk and a top will be placed over it to secure the batteries down. The battery trays are the same for both the classic and alternative mounting methods.

Approx. Time Requirement: 10-12 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits: 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 7/32
* Hacksaw with metal blade (or other method of cutting 1/8 inch aluminum)
* Drill or Dremel
* Drill or Dremel press recommended
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Wood saw
* Pop riveting tool
* Grinder (either an attachment for Dremel or bench grinder)

===Parts needed===
* Aluminum material
** Either 3/4" or 1" by 1/8" thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections, 1x 4 foot section)
** 1/4" Aluminum channel iron (1x 8 foot section, 1x 4 foot section)
* 32 5/32 thick, 1/4 inch grip pop rivets
* 32 #4 flat head self threading screws at least 1/2 inch long
* Small piece of plywood for making jig (optional, but makes things easier.)
* Small pieces of wood for making jig (optional)
* Wood screws (optional)

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 sections of the 1/4" aluminum channel iron to the exact length of the batteries (should be 7 1/16 inches.) Having the batteries actually present is important for measuring. A total of 16 of these pieces will be required for all 4 trays.
# Lay out 5 batteries and put the 1/4" aluminum channel irons between the batteries. Measure out the length and cut 2 sections of the aluminum angle irons to the length of the batteries (should be 16 5/16 inches.) A total of 8 of these sections will be required for all 4 trays. See photos below for how to layout the pack.
# Layout 5 batteries with the angle irons from above and measure the width and cut the 2 end pieces (should be 7 1/4 inches.) A total of 8 of these pieces will be required for all 4.
# Lay everything out on top of a piece of plywood and double check measurements with batteries set in the tray as shown below. It is important that the end pieces are under the pieces that run along the length of the tray.
# Screw down blocks of wood around outside of the frame as shown to hold the outside angle irons exactly where they are.
# Remove the batteries one by one and put in pieces of wood where the batteries were to hold frame and aluminum channel irons in place. This jig will hold all the pieces together while drilling.
# Using a small drill press or preferably a Dremel drill press, drill 2 3/32" holes into each corner (or probably only one if using 3/4" angle irons.)
# Once the holes are drilled, remove the top angle iron (the 16 5/16 inch one) and using a 1/8" drill bit, widen the holes so that the #4 screws can pass through them freely (only do this on the longer angle iron, not the bottom!) Then counter-sink with a 7/32" drill bit so that the screw will sit flush in the aluminum (see photo below.)
# Put in #4 self threading screws. The screws should grab into the smaller angle iron and hold the angle irons together firmly. The screws will stick out the other side.
# Using a cutoff attachment on a Dremel (or a hacksaw, but Dremel works much better), cut the screws off. Then grind them down flat using the cut off attachment on a Dremel or a bench grinder.
# Re-insert the finished angle iron frame into jig, and place channel irons in place. Drill 5/32" holes at each end.
# Using a pop-riveting tool, insert 5/32" aluminum rivets into the channel irons from the bottom and tighten.
# Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 trays.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All necessary cut aluminum pieces for 4 trays
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Tray set together with batteries
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|Tray parts laid out
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Place wood around tray frame
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in aluminum
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Finished corner with screws in
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Classic Method)==
Approx. Time Requirement:

===Overview===
The battery box supports are what the battery trays will sit on. In the classic method, aluminum angle irons are bolted onto 2 steel tubes which are bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the alternative method, skip this section and goto the next section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 2 3 foot long 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch steel tubes.
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length may be slightly long, you will probably need to adjust the length when mounting!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly. This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Cut the steel tubes to the appropriate length ('''Todo''' Get exact length)
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays for a 1/4" nut.
# Mark the locations where the aluminum angles sit on the steel tube and drill holes.
# Drill holes in the opposite side of the steel tube, big enough to fit the head of a bolt through
# Drill 2 additional holes in each steel tube in the middle of where each tray will sit. Again, drill out the other side so a nut can be fit through it. Then put a threaded 5/8" threaded rod through the hole and put a nut on each side (and a lockwasher on one side.) This will serve as the holddown for the battery box top.
# Drill 4 holes through the tube, evenly spaced over the entire length. These holes are for mounting the battery box frame to the car.
# Drill additional holes as needed to support the electronics tray
# Once holes are all drilled, coat the steel tube with anti-rust paint / spraypaint.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:P1240040.JPG|The completed battery box sitting on steel tubes (unattached)
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Top_Battery_Box_With_Corner_Bracket.JPG|During construction, shows supports without optional strip in center.
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Alternative Method)==
[[Image:Alt Mounting Diagram.png|thumb|The alternative mounting method diagram]]
Approx. Time Requirement: 4-7 hours

===Overview===
In the alternative mounting method, the battery trays sit on aluminum angle irons which either sit directly on the trunk or on rubber pads (which allow the use of battery heaters.) The battery box is supported by brackets attached to the OEM battery mouting screws and two steel angle irons bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the classic mounting method, skip this section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)
* Bench grinder

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 16 inches of steel 1 1/2 inch angle iron
* 2 joist hangers for electrical conduit
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts
* 1/4" nuts
* 1/4" or 1/8" rubber pads (optional, but required if heating pads are to be installed.)
* anti-rust paint or spraypaint

===Assembly Steps===
===The center strip===
# See the diagram to the right to see how everything assembles.
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length is too long, you will need to adjust the length when mounting, so be careful drilling holes, test fit first!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly (for strength). This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Lay out 2 aluminum angles so they form a "T" with the top of the "T" being on the floor. Optionaly insert the aluminum strip into the middle
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays in the middle for a 1/4" nut.
# Drill holes through each end of the assembly to anchor the two angles (and optionally the strip) together. The holes must be outside where the battery trays will sit (remember to leave space for a 1/4" nut (which is larger than 1/4")
# Optionally, cut rubber pads to go under each of the aluminum angles.
# Other holes will need to be drilled later when ready to mount.

===Steel Angle Iron Brackets===
# Cut 4 sections of steel angle iron about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long
# Drill a 3/8" hole in the center on one side of the angle iron.
# On the inside of the angle iron, weld (or use JB weld or another strong epoxy) a 5/8" nut on the inside so a bolt can go through the angle iron and into the nut
# Drill a 5/8" hole in the center of the other side of the angle iron
# Paint the steel with a clean metal anti-rust primer (then allow to dry)
# Spray or paint the primed steel with anti-rust paint

===Steel Supports===
# Cut 2 sections of steel angle iron about 4 inches long each
# Drill 2 5/8" holes in the bottom of the angle iron
# These will be used later for mounting into the Prius - the rest of the assembly must be done later

'''Todo''' This isn't finished - check the diagram for more details

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Alt method support angle irons.jpg|Test fitting in the Prius
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Support Steel mounted
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Shows the optional rubber pads
Image:Right_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the right side
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the left side
Image:Entire_alt_batt_box_mounting_supports.jpg|With the battery trays in
</gallery>

==Battery Box Top==
Approx. Time Requirement: 10 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits:
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade very helpful (must be capable of 45 degree angles.)
* Tablesaw with Plexiglass blade, or other method of cutting Plexiglass
* Drill
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Dremmel
* Cutoff attachment for Dremmel

===Parts Needed===
* Aluminum material
** 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
** 1 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (1x 4 foot sections for classic - 8 feet for the alternative mounting method)
* Corner brackets - can be found at Mennards in shelving hardware section
* 24x #8-32 flat head machine screws
* 16x #8-32 nuts
* 8x #8-32 x 1/4 inch binding posts
* 1/4 inch Plexiglass or (preferably) Lexan sheet, at least 33 inches by 18.5 inches.
* 4 small non-conductive nylon screw and binding posts (for holding Plexiglass "shields")

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 2 strips of Plexiglass (or Lexan) 32.5 inches by 1.5 inches. These peices will act as a sheild between the battery terminals and the aluminum (to prevent shorts.)
# Cut opposing 45 degree angle at the end of 2 of the 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron peices to form one of the corners.
# Layout the four trays in the frame angle irons (important for getting correct measurements.)
# Place 4 batteries in the trays, one in each corner (see photo.)
# Place electrical tape over the terminals on the batteries to help prevent any arcs.
# Make sure to leave space for the middle bolt down and bolts for the frame. (The battery box base isn't finished yet and requires space in the middle.)
# Set one of the cut angle irons on top of the batteries (be sure not to arc the batteries!) Place the Plexiglass "Shield" in place and use clamps to it there. This allows for accurate measurements.
# Lay the other angle iron with the opposing 45 degree angle out and measure the width & cut with a 45 degree angle (end peice should be about 15 3/8 inches wide.)
# Hold the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top to the end of the battery pack (use clamps to hold it on.) For the classic mounting method, this is only required on the left and right sides. For the alternative mouting method, the angles should go around the entire battery box top.
# Holding the angle irons and bolt down angle iron right where they should be, set the corner bracket on the corner and make sure that it covers the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the battery box.
# Mark where the holes on the top of the bracket are on the angle iron (or drill holes if necessary.)
# Using the Dremmel cutoff tool, cut down the binding post so that it does not stick all the way thought the bracket if set on top (see picture.)
# Drill a hole in the angle iron and countersink it so that the #8 flat top machine screw fits flush. Put screw in and repeate for the other angle iron.
# Repeate for other sides cutting the angle irons to the right lengths. The length of the angle iron on the side of the battery box should be 34 inches.
# To strengthen the structure of the top, drill holes in from the sides, countersink from the inside and bolt using #8 flat head screws and nuts (bolting the top down is important, remember that the top must hold weight if the car goes over large bumps or is involved in an accident or rollover.)
# Using a drill press or drill, drill through the Plexiglass on the side and the aluminum angle irons near the edges. Countersink the hole in the Plexiglass and insert non-conductive nylon screws and binding posts to hold Plexiglass in place.
# Using the Dremmel with cutoff attachment, grind off the bolts that are sticking out.
# Cut the Plexiglass sheet to the correct length and width to fit snuggly into the top of the battery box.
# Holes need to be drilled into the bolt down angle irons on each side, but I don't have those measurements and it depends how it is bolted down. Holes also need to be drilled in the middle on each aluminum angle iron to clamp down the top to the bottom of the battery box for extra strength.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
</gallery>

===Tips===
* If you are buying a new metal cutoff blade for an existing chopsaw, make sure to get one that is large enough to actually cut all the way through the metal with your specific chopsaw.
* Aluminum blades with small teeth do not seem to work well for cutting through 1/8 aluminum angle irons! They grab and tend to throw the saw and are almost impossible to control. Don't attempt an aluminum cutting blade with teeth on a radial saw!
* A hacksaw can work in place of the metal cutoff blade, however it is much more difficult to get straight cuts, even with a metal guide for the hacksaw.
* A jig saw seems to work well for cutting the aluminum angle irons

==Control Board==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|Control Board, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBd_layout.png|right|thumb|250px|Control Board Layout]]
Approx. time requirement: 6-8 hours

'''A few issues have been found with the posted version of the control board schematics. The new version will be posted shortly with a corrected parts list.'''

===Tools Needed===
* Soldering Iron
* Solder

===Parts Needed===
See the [[PriusPlus-PartsList]] page for the complete parts list and an easy order DigiKey link.

===Assembly Steps===
Solder the components to the printed board according to the schematics above. Make sure to install R3, D1 & D2 1/4 inches off the board and to solder the DIP sockets without the IC's installed. If new at soldering, make sure to use a heat sink for soldering transistors.

==LED Board==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|LED Board, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
Approx. time requirement: 2 hours

===Tools Needed===
* Soldering Iron
* Solder

===Parts Needed===
See the [[PriusPlus-PartsList]] page for the parts list.

'''Todo''' The schematics need to be updated to match new schematics.

==Electronic/Electric Sub Part Construction==
===Diode===
The diode must be firmly and correctly mounted to the heatsink. The diode has a 1/4" stud which passes through the heatsink but does not touch the heatsink. A shoulder or insulating nylon tube must be placed over the stud where the diode passes through the heatsink. This is important so the diode does not electrically make contact with the heatsink. Additionally, 2 electrically insulating, but thermally conductive pads (or mica) must be used on both sides of the heatsink to prevent the diode from making contact on either side of the heatsink. See photos below for how to mount the diode:

====Photos====
<gallery>
Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
</gallery>

===Snubbers===
Solder together one lead of the .47uF, 500V capacitor and one lead of the 22 ohm 1 watt resistor. Put heat shrink tubing around the other 2 leads and crimp on ring terminals and solder the crimps to the leads for a better connection. The snubbers are then placed across the two contactors.

===Low Voltage Interconnects===
A list of helpful Molex connector tools on DigiKey can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014151 here].

'''Todo'''

==Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
[[Image:Electronics Tray Classic.png|thumb|Electronics Tray diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help''' Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut the bottom, back, sides. Cut holes in the fans on the sides, and use small shelving brackets to secure the pieces together. Attach electronic components with screws. Plexiglass top.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:P10380.JPG|The electronics tray
</gallery>

==Electronics Box (Alternative)==
[[Image:Electronics Box Alternative.png|thumb|Electronics Box diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help'''. Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut a bottom, sides, back, front, middle divider, fan divider, and rear top. The front top is 1/4" plexiglass for easy viewing (or more ABS if preferred.) The fan divider is designed to be easily retractable for easy replacement without removing the battery box. Mount the fuse holders with 2 screws in the middle, the contactors, power supply, relays, etc. Preferably use very short self tapping screws that don't go through the plastic to provide electrical isolation from the rest of the car (optional.) It may be useful to use a Dremmel with a small drill bit to star the hole, use the self tapping screw to start the thread and then use a cutoff small screw. Otherwise, countersink a flat head screw on the outside of the box and use nuts and lock washers on the inside.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics Box Assembly - Side Vents.jpg|Starting with the materials
Image:Electronics_box_being_assembled.jpg|The electronics box taped together
Image:Electronics Box Assembly Mounting Components.jpg|Components being mounted
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_1.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_2.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:HVD1_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the diode
Image:Left_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Left outside of electronics box
Image:Right_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Right outside of the electronics box
Image:Contactors_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted contactors
Image:Fuses_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted fuses
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well_2.jpg|The electronics box with the HV section's cover resting on top
</gallery>

==Installation Into the Prius==
Now that the sub components are built, it is time to start installing things into the Prius. The following sections will each attempt to leave the Prius in a drivable state after the section is completed.

=Disassembling the Prius=
==Remove user-removable parts==
'''Todo''' This needs to be finished
Remove the false floor, the central storage bin, side storage bin and spare tire.

==Battery Carpet & Seat Removal==
{| align=right
| [[Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|thumb|These bolts must be taken out]]
|| [[Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|thumb|Shows the carpeting being removed from the OEM battery]]
|| [[Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|thumb|right|Removing the bolts for the rear seats]]
|}
Remove the two bolts holding down the carpeting over the OEM battery. Be sure to keep them in a plastic bag so they do not get lost. Then lift up on the Velcro attaching to the rear seats. Then, simply pull straight up on the carpeting assembly. It will snap out and expose the top of the OEM battery. There are 2 carpeting clips that must be removed to fully remove the cover from the OEM battery.

With the OEM battery carpeting removed (or the Velcro simply pulled up), remove the two bolts holding in the seat. The seat back then comes out giving access to the front side of the OEM battery (needed for the OEM tie-in.)

==Side panel Removal==
Both of the carpeted side panels in the rear of the Prius must be removed. The driver's side panel must be removed to access the OEM battery for tie-in, and the passenger's side must be removed to access the OEM battery fan to add the override wiring.
# Remove the screen from the trunk (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the cover from the driver's side storage cubby hole (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the black strip in the very rear of the trunk (where the latch is for the trunk) by simply lifting straight up (it will pop out.)
# Remove the arm rest sections on the outside of the seats ('''Todo - add photos''')
# Remove the 10mm bolt inside the screen holder using a ratchet with an extension
# Remove the 10mm bolt in the back of the side panel in the section which holds the screen if were deployed. This can be done with a 10mm ratchet or a screwdriver.
# Pull straight out on the entire assembly.
# On the drivers side, there is a wire which connects to the trunk lamp which needs to be disconnected.
# Repeat instructions for the passenger's side.

==Routing CAN-View cables to trunk==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be improved.

Take off the kick panels on either the driver's side or passenger's side, insert CAN-View cable, ribbon cable (for LED board) and EV mode cable (1 wire) and route into trunk.

==Air Vents (Classic Method)==
Remove spare tire and the two black drain plugs that sit in the tire well. You may have to use a dremmel to open the hole so you can drop in the [Delete later-(Ron I think I found a piece of conduit that will flush mount in here. The PVC pipe can be glued to it. I’ll get you a part number and picture. By doing this a project could be prepped weeks in advance and the spare will still fit in there until the final conversion days.) ] 2” PVC threaded coupling. Next connect the 2” 90 deg. Elbow and then a length of 2” PVC pipe per this photo (add photo showing underside of car with both pipes pointing back to the rear.)

==Installing the Outlet Box (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''Please help us finish this section! Write chris at infolaunch.com to help and for the 120 volt wiring schematics that need to be posted here.'''

Take a standard plastic wall 4 gang outlet box, route a 12/3 cable into the box (with strain relief), and wire one duplex (2 individual outlets) directly to the incoming power. Then wire one outlet of the other duplex through one relay, and the other through the second relay (such that the outlets are on only when the relays are on.) The 2 individual outlets controlled by relays are designed for heating pads for the OEM battery and the PHEV battery pack. The other 2, always on when plugged in outlets are designed to power the charger and the power supply.

==Install Charger / Electronics Box (Alternative Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded.

'''Todo''' Add relevant photos from RawData page

Take a sheet of zinc coated steel and cut it out so that it fits neatly in the bottom of the tire well. Drill a hole in the center where the spare tire screw goes (used to hold the sheet in place.) Then, place the charger in the back, behind the center hole. It may be necessary to use pipe or washers to offset the charger from the steel sheet an inch or so to get it to fit (depends on charger used.) Drill holes through the steel sheet and mount charger to it. Then, put a thin carpet or sturdy insulation on the underside of the steel sheet to prevent rattling while driving. It may be necessary to use a 3/4" small block of wood with a hole through the middle to offset the center of the steel where the screw goes into the tire well mount to keep the steel from bending / rattling while driving. The screw is metric. Then, using several strips of extra strength velcro, velcro the bottom of the electronics box to the steel sheet.

==Install Batt. Box Foundation / Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
Line up the battery box support steel tubes where they should go and drill holes into the trunk floor. It may be necessary to remove part or all of the heat shielding from the muffler on the underside of the car to find the holes. Bolt down.

('''Todo''' Need to detail removing the heat shield on the underside of the car.)
To remove the plastic shield on the driver's side rear of the car, use a flat screw driver to pop out the 3 fasteners. On the back of the shield there is a 10mm bolt holding the plastic shield in place which also needs to be removed.

==Install Battery Box Foundation (Alternative Method)==
'''Todo''' This needs to be better documented

'''Todo''' Add diagram to this section (copy from above)

Remove the two bolts holding down the OEM battery in that stick out into the tire well. Mount the modified I beam brackets so that the back with the screw hole is facing directly towards the back of the car. Drill a hole in the rear support aluminum angle iron to match with those screw holes, countersink a flat screw into that. (see diagram and photos for details on how everything goes together.) On the driver's side, drill a hole through the aluminum for the post on the SKS sensor. The middle section just sits on the steel floor, though bolts into the Prius body may be a good idea. (its held in primarily by the battery box top, but extra strength in the event of a crash would be good.) The rear piece needs to have holes drilled in the Prius steel floor and the steel angle irons (see diagram) bolted to either the steel floor or to the frame member below them off to the side a bit. If bolting to the steel floor, a steel strip on the opposite side should be used, and at least 2 bolts should be used for added strength.

==OEM Battery Fan Control Tap==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|Fan Control, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
'''Todo''' Upload new version of schematic

Taps must be added to force the OEM fan on at lower temperatures so the car can remain in EV mode.

The tapping is done at the OEM battery fan. You reach it by taking the right rear inner body panel off (instructions in the Toyota service manual), reaching up inside the ducting, above the right rear wheelwell, and unplugging the power plug to the fan. The plug is not visible; you must unplug it (and plug it in again) by feel. The plug has two light green wires attached to one pin, and two violet wires attached to the other.

Use #18 or larger wires for all of the following. All three wires are run down to the control board, then the OEM battery plug is plugged back into the fan.

Alternative 1: Attach a green wire to one or both of the light green wires, e.g. via a red clip-on wire splice (make sure it makes solid contact). Then cut both of the violet wires about 2" from the OEM battery fan plug. Splice a violet wire onto both of the violet wires that were cut off, and a black wire to one or both of the violet wires still attached to the plug. Splice all three (1N5402, 1N5403, or 1N5404) 3A diodes in parallel as shown, between the violet and black wires near the fan plug, with the cathode (the end with the band) connected to the violet wire. For proper heat dissipation, make sure that the leads and all connections are well insulated, that the body of each diode is open to air flow, and that the diodes are not pressed against each other, and that the whole assembly, when the plug is plugged in, is solidly suspended in mid-air. Three 3A diodes are used in parallel for a maximum of 5A because heat dissipation may be compromised even when installed as above. The other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

<gallery>
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

Alternative 2 (does not cut Prius wires, but is expensive): Buy two each of the following Toyota replacement OEM battery plug and mating pins:
OEM battery fan plug pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12380
OEM battery fan plug mating pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12370
Splice one plug pin, a mating pin, and a green wire together. Splice a black wire to a plug pin, and a violet wire to a mating pin. Splice the three 1N5402 diodes between the violet and black wires as described above. Now remove the pin with the light green wires from the OEM battery fan plug, connect it to the mating pin with the green wire attached, and secure with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the green wire into the OEM battery fan plug. Next, remove the pin with the violet wires from the OEM battery plug and connect it to the mating pin with the violet wire attached, again securing it with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the black wire into the OEM battery fan plug. The pins are removed one at a time so that there is no possibility of getting them reversed when inserting the new pins. As above, the other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

The pins can be removed from the OEM battery fan plug by inserting a tiny screwdriver from the back to push the plastic catch aside while pulling on the wire attached to the pin.

==Safety Warning & Tips==
Batteries can be dangerous and can cause serious injury or death and should only be worked on by persons qualified to do so. Both energy hazards from arcs (shorts) and electrical shock can cause serious injury or be fatal with a battery pack of this size. Battery packs are always live and cannot be shut off! The following are safety tips to help prevent arcs and shocks, but they are only tips and should not be taken as a go-ahead to perform work on battery packs. Extreme caution must be taken as it is very easy to accidentally set something on the battery without thinking or drop something and cause a shock or arc. Hire a qualified electrician to help for this part if there is any doubt.

* Remove all jewelry, especially gold, before working with batteries.
* Do not allow metal to come into contact with the batteries that could cause an arc (best practice is to not allow any metal near the battery at all.
* Use only fully insulated tools around batteries, especially in tight spaces (available in the electrical department in most hardware stores.)
* When wiring batteries, be sure the other end of the wire will not accidentally come into contact with any other part of the battery or metal frames. Taping or otherwise protecting the ends of wires is recommended.
* Wear rated rubber electricians gloves and outer protective gloves. Electricians gloves are not fail-proof and every effort should be made to only touch insulated tools even when wearing gloves.
* If electrician gloves aren't used, only one hand should be used so that a shock will not pass current through the heart.
* Always wear gloves when working on batteries (preferably rubber.)
* Install the jumpers in 48 volt sections and then connect those smaller sections together at the very end. This way voltages higher than 48 volts are only handled when installing 4 jumpers instead of 16.
* Even though the batteries are sealed, it is still possible for them to leak and splatter acid, especially if they are just charged, heated or an arc occurs. If a leak occurs, use baking soda to neutralize the acid and properly dispose. Eye protection is a good idea.
* Orient batteries in the tray to avoid terminal contact with any bolts or any metal pieces.

==Tapping into OEM Battery==
{{Disclaimer}}

This step '''MUST''' be performed by someone qualified to work on high voltage systems. Rated rubber electricians gloves should be used for working on the inside of the battery. Please fully read the Safety section before before attempting anything. Lethal voltages are present. Hire a qualified professional for this portion.

'''Todo: This section is not finished'''

Tools needed
* Voltmeter (capable of at least 300 volts DC)
* Ratchet

Parts needed
* 3 #6 AWG ring terminal crimps (an extra is good)
* 2 #8 AWG ring terminal crimps (extras are good)
* small 1 foot section of 6 AWG wire (with insulation rated 600v or higher, preferably THHN)
* non-conductive rubber cap
* electrical tape
* several feet of #8 AWG wire with insulation rated 600v or higher
* optional: 3/8" flex tubing
* optional: other flexible conduit

# Before attempting to open the OEM battery, the orange service disconnect '''MUST''' be fully removed from the OEM battery. To do this, lift up on the orange ring. Once it pops up, push the top part out, away from the battery. This will remove the service disconnect from the battery. Do not re-install the service disconnect until the OEM battery has been closed up. '''BE AWARE, THERE ARE STILL HIGH, LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE THE BATTERY EVEN THOUGH THE DISCONNECT HAS BEEN REMOVED!'''
# Take off the support holding the OEM battery in place. The bolts are found on the driver's side wheel well, on the OEM battery and behind the driver's side rear seat top (the seat top must be removed, see above for information on removing the seat back.)
# Carefully remove the bolts holding the cover on the driver's side of the OEM battery. The 2 bolts will need to be removed from where the orange cables come out of the battery to remove the cover. '''DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE'''
# Once opened, just beyond where the two orange wires enter the OEM battery there are 2 contactors with 2 white plastic shields on top. '''NEVER TOUCH THE TWO TERMINALS AT THE SAME TIME''' Using rated, insulated electrician's rubber gloves remove one of the white plastic pieces by lifting straight up. Using a voltmeter, test the DC voltage between the contactor terminal and ground. If voltage is present (often > 100 volts DC) keep the multimeter on the terminal until the voltage decreases to below 1 volt. '''After''' that has been done on one, remove the other white plastic piece and repeat for the other side. Then check the voltage between all of the contactor terminals (all 4) to ensure they are zero. '''This step must be repeated any time the orange service plug has been inserted into the battery to ensure safety.
# Disconnect the negative wire coming from the OEM battery from the contactor. It is the one fed through the hall effect sensor (see photo.) The wire must be removed from the hall effect sensor.
# Take the piece of 6AWG wire with a 6AWG ring connector firmly attached at both ends and feed it through the hall effect sensor and connect it to the contactor where you just removed the OEM negative battery wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Feed in the new #8 AWG wire from the electronics tray through the opening where the 2 orange wires come through. Attach a #8 AWG ring connector to the wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Bolt the #6 wire from the negative contactor, the negative wire from the OEM battery and the negative #8 AWG (black) wire from the electronics tray together as shown using a lockwasher (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Then wrap tightly with electrical tape (preferably orange), so that the entire assembly is covered with several layers of tape.
# Place a rubber cap on the top and wrap the rubber assembly in tape and attach firmly to the rest of the wire.
# Next, crimp on a #8 AWG ring terminal to the #8 Red wire coming from the electronics tray.
# Remove the bolt on the positive contactor's terminal and add the #8 AWG wire as shown (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Replace the white insulators that came off the top of the contactors
# Route the wire in the same way as the black wire out area where the 2 orange wires run
# Make sure there is a little slack wire inside the OEM battery. Then, optionally wrap the 3/8" flex tubing around the 2 new wires to the electronics tray and wrap them in orange electrical tape (orange is keeping in standard for high voltage wiring in hybrids.)
# '''Before reconnecting anything, be absolutely sure that the other end of the high voltage wires are fully insulated (i.e., make sure the Anderson PP75 connectors are on and that there is electrical tape preventing them from accidentally contacting any metal.'''
# Tap a yellow #22 or larger wire onto the yellow low voltage wire going to one of the contactors and route to the electronics tray or box.
'''Todo''' Add a photo of the yellow READY wire.

<gallery>
Image:OEM_battery_exposed.jpg|The OEM battery with the support bracket removed
Image:Opening_OEM_battery.jpg|Removing the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_after_tie_in.jpg|After the OEM battery tie in is done
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_from_back_of_car.jpg|Shows the 2 white insulators on the contactors
</gallery>

==Tap into the 12v Accessory Battery==
Run 4 18 AWG wires (2 red, 2 black) from the electronics tray or box to the 12 volt accessory battery (located under the passenger side cubby hole. The 2 red wires should run into a 15 amp 32volt automotive fuse. The other side of the fuse should go to the 12v accessory battery. The black wire should either goto the black terminal on the battery or the chassis (but it must be a very clean connection to the chassis.) The other side of the wires goes to the control board through a .156" Molex KK connector.

==Reassemble the Prius Trunk==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written

==Connecting the PbA batteries==
'''Todo''' Much work needed yet

===Parts Needed===
* Qty 50 8 AWG crimp on ring terminals (probably wise to get a few extra!)
* 8 AWG wire (list total length used here.)
* Orange electrical tape
* 20x BB Battery EVP20-12B 12volt 20ah SLA AGM batteries (2 spares recommended.)

===Assembly Steps===
{{Disclaimer}}

'''Warning: Get an electrician or qualified person to do this, this is working with high voltages which can be lethal or start fires if not taken seriously.'''

Place trays in the foundation and the batteries in trays (look at photos on RawData page to see sequence.) Using crimp on ring terminals, make lengths of wire long enough to connect batteries and crimp the ring terminals on well. Make sure the crimps are very tight and make good contact. This is very important because they could otherwise heat up extremely hot and melt or start a fire. The batteries are arranged electrically into 4 60v sections. The front section and rear section are separated by one of the 60 amp 300v fuses (see HV schematics.) Each other section is separated by Anderson PP75 connectors for easy disconnect. Sections should be assembled individually to prevent voltages from being more than 60 volts until everything is ready to be connected and assembled. Leave the fuses disconnected until everything is finished. Then put on the battery box top and bolt it down.

==Optional Bumper Mounted Inlet==
This is an optional replacement for the mounted cord reel. There may be other inlets available, but a Marinco 150CCI works well and costs about $25-$30.

# Remove the plastic shield on the driver's side of the car if it hasn't been already (see above for instructions.)
# Using a circular drill bit with starting drill bit, drill a 1 7/8" hole in the bumper where you want the inlet to be mounted.
# Route the cable to the inlet before installing the inlet.
# Fasten the inlet to the bumper

==Optional Mounted Cord Reel (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written by someone who knows how to do this.

==The First Tests==
'''Todo''' This needs much more work

First, using a voltmeter check to make sure that voltages are present both from the OEM battery (should be 220v or so) and from the PHEV pack (should be around 260v.) Plug the car into a ground faulted (preferably also arc faulted) outlet and check to see if the car starts to charge the PHEV battery.

Power up the car very briefly and check to see if the control board turns on. With CAN-View in ORIG mode (not PHEV), make sure that HVRL1 and HVRL2 are both off. Some LEDs should be on on the LED board.

==Programming CAN-View/Control Board==

'''Todo''' Polish this description and format nicely like Ryan's PiPrius ones.

Set the dip switches on the control board:
DIPSW1: 1=OFF, 2=OFF, 3=ON, 4=ON, 5=ON [ HVRL1 = RL3 OR RL5 OR RL6 ] (RL2 will be reserved to force the OEM battery fan ON)
DIPSW1: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control the optional current-limiting power resistor)
DIPSW2: 1-5=OFF (later, 2=ON will force the OEM battery fan ON when RL2 is ON)
DIPSW2: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control a "Future use #1" output)

RL2 [settings don't yet matter]

For highway driving:
RL3 ON < 71 OFF > 73 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON 25 OFF < 30 Acl (Amps DCL)
ON > 45 OFF < 40 MPH
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
3 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

To stay in EV mode during acceleration:
RL5 ON < 200 OFF > 235V
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? YES

For low speeds, to promote EV mode driving:
RL6 ON < 61 OFF > 63 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

{{Disclaimer}}

PriusPlus-Instructions

2007-07-14T14:16:30Z

Cewert: /* LED Board */ moved parts list to PartsList page

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----
Welcome to the PriusPlus Do-It-Yourself documentation. Below you will find details on converting your 2004-2007 Prius to a plug-in hybrid via the [[PriusPlus]] method. The documentation is laid out in three parts. The [[PriusPlus]] gives an overview of the conversion and lists benefits, limitations and normal operating behavior. [[PriusPlus-Theory]] gives details the theory behind how the conversion works. The PriusPlus-Instructions page (this page) gives detailed, ordered instructions on how to convert your Prius yourself.

==Choosing a Mouting Method==
Before getting too far, you will need to decide on a mounting method. Currently, there are 2 methods, each with their benefits. The majority of the instructions are the same for both methods, however, some sections will be labeled as "classic mounting method" and others as "alternative mounting method" and contain instructions for the specific method.

===Classic Mounting Method===
The "Classic" method is the classic CalCars style. The spare tire well is largely unchanged, the batteries are placed in the very rear of the trunk, an electronics tray is placed in front of the batteries and the charger is placed in the left cubby hole (the carpeting in the cubby hole is cut back.) This method allows for easy access to all the electronics, including the charger.

<gallery>
Image:P10400.JPG|Classic method - spare tire well
Image:P10398.JPG|Classic method - charger
Image:Sven_car_finished_trunk_view.JPG|Finished trunk (top view)
</gallery>

===Alternative Mounting Method===
The "Alternative" method seeks to maximize usable trunk space and minimize visible changes. With this design, the batteries are moved as far forward as possible and the supporting electronics and charger are located in the spare tire well. The batteries stick up through the false floor, but are flush with the Prius's floor. Most of the high voltage electronics are isolated from the low voltage electronics, however some of the high voltage electronics and the charger are more difficult to access because they are below the batteries (they tend to be the more reliable parts, however.) The low voltage electronics are easily accessible.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well.jpg|Spare tire well
Image:Batteries_being_installed_2.jpg|Location of Batteries
Image:Finished Alt Mounting Method.jpg|Finished Product
</gallery>

==CAN-View & EV Mode button==
===Overview===
Start by installing CAN-View. CAN-View gives you insight into how the Prius works and it is best to have it installed before doing the conversion. Please see [[PriusPlus-Theory]] for more information on what [[CAN-View]] and [[Prius EV Mode Button]] do and how they work.

You will need to purchase [[CAN-View]] from [http://hybridinterfaces.ca hybridinterfaces.ca]. There are currently 4 versions of [[CAN-View]] available. Version 3 and 3plus require an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or [[MFD]]) while Version 4 and 4plus work with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) Version 4 has the PHEV relays built onto the main board, while version 3 has an extra optional PHEV relay board, which is required for this conversion. Version 3plus and 4plus feature a smart relay board which can interact with battery regulators. At the present, the PriusPlus conversion method does not make use of the smart relay features in the "plus" models.

===Installation===
Approx. time requirement: 45 minutes - 2 hours

The [[CAN-View]] is installed differently depending on whether or not your car is equipped with in-dash navigation. Detailed instructions with photos are available [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html with NAV] or [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html without NAV]. It is best to install and route the wires for the [[Prius EV Mode Button]] at the same time since they both require disassembling the dash.

'''ToDo''' the following section is shared with the [[PiPrius_conversion_process#CAN-View_.26_EV_Mode_Button]] documentation. Any changes should be generic enough to satisfy both, place project specific notes above or below it. Another set of instructions may be needed for the CAN-View Version 4 which does not integrate with the OEM [[MFD]] and gets power directly from the OBDII port, [http://priuschat.com/index.php?act=ST&f=62&t=27906 Prius CAN View V4 Mounting options] at PriusChat.com covers various ways of mounting the second touch screen.

{{Prius CAN-ViewV3 & EV-Mode Button}}

==Battery Tray Construction==
===Overview===
The next step is to start constructing the mechanical components which will be used in the conversion. The battery trays are where the new lead-acid (PbA) batteries will sit. The trays will then be mounted on rails in the trunk and a top will be placed over it to secure the batteries down. The battery trays are the same for both the classic and alternative mounting methods.

Approx. Time Requirement: 10-12 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits: 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 7/32
* Hacksaw with metal blade (or other method of cutting 1/8 inch aluminum)
* Drill or Dremel
* Drill or Dremel press recommended
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Wood saw
* Pop riveting tool
* Grinder (either an attachment for Dremel or bench grinder)

===Parts needed===
* Aluminum material
** Either 3/4" or 1" by 1/8" thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections, 1x 4 foot section)
** 1/4" Aluminum channel iron (1x 8 foot section, 1x 4 foot section)
* 32 5/32 thick, 1/4 inch grip pop rivets
* 32 #4 flat head self threading screws at least 1/2 inch long
* Small piece of plywood for making jig (optional, but makes things easier.)
* Small pieces of wood for making jig (optional)
* Wood screws (optional)

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 sections of the 1/4" aluminum channel iron to the exact length of the batteries (should be 7 1/16 inches.) Having the batteries actually present is important for measuring. A total of 16 of these pieces will be required for all 4 trays.
# Lay out 5 batteries and put the 1/4" aluminum channel irons between the batteries. Measure out the length and cut 2 sections of the aluminum angle irons to the length of the batteries (should be 16 5/16 inches.) A total of 8 of these sections will be required for all 4 trays. See photos below for how to layout the pack.
# Layout 5 batteries with the angle irons from above and measure the width and cut the 2 end pieces (should be 7 1/4 inches.) A total of 8 of these pieces will be required for all 4.
# Lay everything out on top of a piece of plywood and double check measurements with batteries set in the tray as shown below. It is important that the end pieces are under the pieces that run along the length of the tray.
# Screw down blocks of wood around outside of the frame as shown to hold the outside angle irons exactly where they are.
# Remove the batteries one by one and put in pieces of wood where the batteries were to hold frame and aluminum channel irons in place. This jig will hold all the pieces together while drilling.
# Using a small drill press or preferably a Dremel drill press, drill 2 3/32" holes into each corner (or probably only one if using 3/4" angle irons.)
# Once the holes are drilled, remove the top angle iron (the 16 5/16 inch one) and using a 1/8" drill bit, widen the holes so that the #4 screws can pass through them freely (only do this on the longer angle iron, not the bottom!) Then counter-sink with a 7/32" drill bit so that the screw will sit flush in the aluminum (see photo below.)
# Put in #4 self threading screws. The screws should grab into the smaller angle iron and hold the angle irons together firmly. The screws will stick out the other side.
# Using a cutoff attachment on a Dremel (or a hacksaw, but Dremel works much better), cut the screws off. Then grind them down flat using the cut off attachment on a Dremel or a bench grinder.
# Re-insert the finished angle iron frame into jig, and place channel irons in place. Drill 5/32" holes at each end.
# Using a pop-riveting tool, insert 5/32" aluminum rivets into the channel irons from the bottom and tighten.
# Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 trays.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All necessary cut aluminum pieces for 4 trays
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Tray set together with batteries
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|Tray parts laid out
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Place wood around tray frame
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in aluminum
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Finished corner with screws in
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Classic Method)==
Approx. Time Requirement:

===Overview===
The battery box supports are what the battery trays will sit on. In the classic method, aluminum angle irons are bolted onto 2 steel tubes which are bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the alternative method, skip this section and goto the next section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 2 3 foot long 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch steel tubes.
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length may be slightly long, you will probably need to adjust the length when mounting!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly. This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Cut the steel tubes to the appropriate length ('''Todo''' Get exact length)
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays for a 1/4" nut.
# Mark the locations where the aluminum angles sit on the steel tube and drill holes.
# Drill holes in the opposite side of the steel tube, big enough to fit the head of a bolt through
# Drill 2 additional holes in each steel tube in the middle of where each tray will sit. Again, drill out the other side so a nut can be fit through it. Then put a threaded 5/8" threaded rod through the hole and put a nut on each side (and a lockwasher on one side.) This will serve as the holddown for the battery box top.
# Drill 4 holes through the tube, evenly spaced over the entire length. These holes are for mounting the battery box frame to the car.
# Drill additional holes as needed to support the electronics tray
# Once holes are all drilled, coat the steel tube with anti-rust paint / spraypaint.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:P1240040.JPG|The completed battery box sitting on steel tubes (unattached)
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Top_Battery_Box_With_Corner_Bracket.JPG|During construction, shows supports without optional strip in center.
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Alternative Method)==
[[Image:Alt Mounting Diagram.png|thumb|The alternative mounting method diagram]]
Approx. Time Requirement: 4-7 hours

===Overview===
In the alternative mounting method, the battery trays sit on aluminum angle irons which either sit directly on the trunk or on rubber pads (which allow the use of battery heaters.) The battery box is supported by brackets attached to the OEM battery mouting screws and two steel angle irons bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the classic mounting method, skip this section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)
* Bench grinder

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 16 inches of steel 1 1/2 inch angle iron
* 2 joist hangers for electrical conduit
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts
* 1/4" nuts
* 1/4" or 1/8" rubber pads (optional, but required if heating pads are to be installed.)
* anti-rust paint or spraypaint

===Assembly Steps===
===The center strip===
# See the diagram to the right to see how everything assembles.
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length is too long, you will need to adjust the length when mounting, so be careful drilling holes, test fit first!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly (for strength). This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Lay out 2 aluminum angles so they form a "T" with the top of the "T" being on the floor. Optionaly insert the aluminum strip into the middle
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays in the middle for a 1/4" nut.
# Drill holes through each end of the assembly to anchor the two angles (and optionally the strip) together. The holes must be outside where the battery trays will sit (remember to leave space for a 1/4" nut (which is larger than 1/4")
# Optionally, cut rubber pads to go under each of the aluminum angles.
# Other holes will need to be drilled later when ready to mount.

===Steel Angle Iron Brackets===
# Cut 4 sections of steel angle iron about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long
# Drill a 3/8" hole in the center on one side of the angle iron.
# On the inside of the angle iron, weld (or use JB weld or another strong epoxy) a 5/8" nut on the inside so a bolt can go through the angle iron and into the nut
# Drill a 5/8" hole in the center of the other side of the angle iron
# Paint the steel with a clean metal anti-rust primer (then allow to dry)
# Spray or paint the primed steel with anti-rust paint

===Steel Supports===
# Cut 2 sections of steel angle iron about 4 inches long each
# Drill 2 5/8" holes in the bottom of the angle iron
# These will be used later for mounting into the Prius - the rest of the assembly must be done later

'''Todo''' This isn't finished - check the diagram for more details

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Alt method support angle irons.jpg|Test fitting in the Prius
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Support Steel mounted
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Shows the optional rubber pads
Image:Right_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the right side
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the left side
Image:Entire_alt_batt_box_mounting_supports.jpg|With the battery trays in
</gallery>

==Battery Box Top==
Approx. Time Requirement: 10 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits:
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade very helpful (must be capable of 45 degree angles.)
* Tablesaw with Plexiglass blade, or other method of cutting Plexiglass
* Drill
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Dremmel
* Cutoff attachment for Dremmel

===Parts Needed===
* Aluminum material
** 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
** 1 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (1x 4 foot sections for classic - 8 feet for the alternative mounting method)
* Corner brackets - can be found at Mennards in shelving hardware section
* 24x #8-32 flat head machine screws
* 16x #8-32 nuts
* 8x #8-32 x 1/4 inch binding posts
* 1/4 inch Plexiglass or (preferably) Lexan sheet, at least 33 inches by 18.5 inches.
* 4 small non-conductive nylon screw and binding posts (for holding Plexiglass "shields")

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 2 strips of Plexiglass (or Lexan) 32.5 inches by 1.5 inches. These peices will act as a sheild between the battery terminals and the aluminum (to prevent shorts.)
# Cut opposing 45 degree angle at the end of 2 of the 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron peices to form one of the corners.
# Layout the four trays in the frame angle irons (important for getting correct measurements.)
# Place 4 batteries in the trays, one in each corner (see photo.)
# Place electrical tape over the terminals on the batteries to help prevent any arcs.
# Make sure to leave space for the middle bolt down and bolts for the frame. (The battery box base isn't finished yet and requires space in the middle.)
# Set one of the cut angle irons on top of the batteries (be sure not to arc the batteries!) Place the Plexiglass "Shield" in place and use clamps to it there. This allows for accurate measurements.
# Lay the other angle iron with the opposing 45 degree angle out and measure the width & cut with a 45 degree angle (end peice should be about 15 3/8 inches wide.)
# Hold the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top to the end of the battery pack (use clamps to hold it on.) For the classic mounting method, this is only required on the left and right sides. For the alternative mouting method, the angles should go around the entire battery box top.
# Holding the angle irons and bolt down angle iron right where they should be, set the corner bracket on the corner and make sure that it covers the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the battery box.
# Mark where the holes on the top of the bracket are on the angle iron (or drill holes if necessary.)
# Using the Dremmel cutoff tool, cut down the binding post so that it does not stick all the way thought the bracket if set on top (see picture.)
# Drill a hole in the angle iron and countersink it so that the #8 flat top machine screw fits flush. Put screw in and repeate for the other angle iron.
# Repeate for other sides cutting the angle irons to the right lengths. The length of the angle iron on the side of the battery box should be 34 inches.
# To strengthen the structure of the top, drill holes in from the sides, countersink from the inside and bolt using #8 flat head screws and nuts (bolting the top down is important, remember that the top must hold weight if the car goes over large bumps or is involved in an accident or rollover.)
# Using a drill press or drill, drill through the Plexiglass on the side and the aluminum angle irons near the edges. Countersink the hole in the Plexiglass and insert non-conductive nylon screws and binding posts to hold Plexiglass in place.
# Using the Dremmel with cutoff attachment, grind off the bolts that are sticking out.
# Cut the Plexiglass sheet to the correct length and width to fit snuggly into the top of the battery box.
# Holes need to be drilled into the bolt down angle irons on each side, but I don't have those measurements and it depends how it is bolted down. Holes also need to be drilled in the middle on each aluminum angle iron to clamp down the top to the bottom of the battery box for extra strength.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
</gallery>

===Tips===
* If you are buying a new metal cutoff blade for an existing chopsaw, make sure to get one that is large enough to actually cut all the way through the metal with your specific chopsaw.
* Aluminum blades with small teeth do not seem to work well for cutting through 1/8 aluminum angle irons! They grab and tend to throw the saw and are almost impossible to control. Don't attempt an aluminum cutting blade with teeth on a radial saw!
* A hacksaw can work in place of the metal cutoff blade, however it is much more difficult to get straight cuts, even with a metal guide for the hacksaw.
* A jig saw seems to work well for cutting the aluminum angle irons

==Control Board==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|Control Board, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
Approx. time requirement: 6-8 hours

'''A few issues have been found with the posted version of the control board schematics. The new version will be posted shortly with a corrected parts list.'''

===Tools Needed===
* Soldering Iron
* Solder

===Parts Needed===
See the [[PriusPlus-PartsList]] page for the complete parts list and an easy order DigiKey link.
'''Todo''' The parts list should ideally be moved to the parts list page.

===Assembly Steps===
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBd_layout.png|right|thumb|250px|Control Board Layout]]

Solder the components to the printed board according to the schematics above. Make sure to install R3, D1 & D2 1/4 inches off the board and to solder the DIP sockets without the IC's installed. If new at soldering, make sure to use a heat sink for soldering transistors.

==LED Board==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|LED Board, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
Approx. time requirement: 2 hours

===Tools Needed===
* Soldering Iron
* Solder

===Parts Needed===
See the [[PriusPlus-PartsList]] page for the parts list.

'''Todo''' The schematics need to be updated to match new schematics.

==Electronic/Electric Sub Part Construction==
===Diode===
The diode must be firmly and correctly mounted to the heatsink. The diode has a 1/4" stud which passes through the heatsink but does not touch the heatsink. A shoulder or insulating nylon tube must be placed over the stud where the diode passes through the heatsink. This is important so the diode does not electrically make contact with the heatsink. Additionally, 2 electrically insulating, but thermally conductive pads (or mica) must be used on both sides of the heatsink to prevent the diode from making contact on either side of the heatsink. See photos below for how to mount the diode:

====Photos====
<gallery>
Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
</gallery>

===Snubbers===
Solder together one lead of the .47uF, 500V capacitor and one lead of the 22 ohm 1 watt resistor. Put heat shrink tubing around the other 2 leads and crimp on ring terminals and solder the crimps to the leads for a better connection. The snubbers are then placed across the two contactors.

===Low Voltage Interconnects===
A list of helpful Molex connector tools on DigiKey can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014151 here].

'''Todo'''

==Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
[[Image:Electronics Tray Classic.png|thumb|Electronics Tray diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help''' Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut the bottom, back, sides. Cut holes in the fans on the sides, and use small shelving brackets to secure the pieces together. Attach electronic components with screws. Plexiglass top.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:P10380.JPG|The electronics tray
</gallery>

==Electronics Box (Alternative)==
[[Image:Electronics Box Alternative.png|thumb|Electronics Box diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help'''. Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut a bottom, sides, back, front, middle divider, fan divider, and rear top. The front top is 1/4" plexiglass for easy viewing (or more ABS if preferred.) The fan divider is designed to be easily retractable for easy replacement without removing the battery box. Mount the fuse holders with 2 screws in the middle, the contactors, power supply, relays, etc. Preferably use very short self tapping screws that don't go through the plastic to provide electrical isolation from the rest of the car (optional.) It may be useful to use a Dremmel with a small drill bit to star the hole, use the self tapping screw to start the thread and then use a cutoff small screw. Otherwise, countersink a flat head screw on the outside of the box and use nuts and lock washers on the inside.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics Box Assembly - Side Vents.jpg|Starting with the materials
Image:Electronics_box_being_assembled.jpg|The electronics box taped together
Image:Electronics Box Assembly Mounting Components.jpg|Components being mounted
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_1.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_2.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:HVD1_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the diode
Image:Left_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Left outside of electronics box
Image:Right_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Right outside of the electronics box
Image:Contactors_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted contactors
Image:Fuses_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted fuses
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well_2.jpg|The electronics box with the HV section's cover resting on top
</gallery>

==Installation Into the Prius==
Now that the sub components are built, it is time to start installing things into the Prius. The following sections will each attempt to leave the Prius in a drivable state after the section is completed.

=Disassembling the Prius=
==Remove user-removable parts==
'''Todo''' This needs to be finished
Remove the false floor, the central storage bin, side storage bin and spare tire.

==Battery Carpet & Seat Removal==
{| align=right
| [[Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|thumb|These bolts must be taken out]]
|| [[Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|thumb|Shows the carpeting being removed from the OEM battery]]
|| [[Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|thumb|right|Removing the bolts for the rear seats]]
|}
Remove the two bolts holding down the carpeting over the OEM battery. Be sure to keep them in a plastic bag so they do not get lost. Then lift up on the Velcro attaching to the rear seats. Then, simply pull straight up on the carpeting assembly. It will snap out and expose the top of the OEM battery. There are 2 carpeting clips that must be removed to fully remove the cover from the OEM battery.

With the OEM battery carpeting removed (or the Velcro simply pulled up), remove the two bolts holding in the seat. The seat back then comes out giving access to the front side of the OEM battery (needed for the OEM tie-in.)

==Side panel Removal==
Both of the carpeted side panels in the rear of the Prius must be removed. The driver's side panel must be removed to access the OEM battery for tie-in, and the passenger's side must be removed to access the OEM battery fan to add the override wiring.
# Remove the screen from the trunk (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the cover from the driver's side storage cubby hole (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the black strip in the very rear of the trunk (where the latch is for the trunk) by simply lifting straight up (it will pop out.)
# Remove the arm rest sections on the outside of the seats ('''Todo - add photos''')
# Remove the 10mm bolt inside the screen holder using a ratchet with an extension
# Remove the 10mm bolt in the back of the side panel in the section which holds the screen if were deployed. This can be done with a 10mm ratchet or a screwdriver.
# Pull straight out on the entire assembly.
# On the drivers side, there is a wire which connects to the trunk lamp which needs to be disconnected.
# Repeat instructions for the passenger's side.

==Routing CAN-View cables to trunk==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be improved.

Take off the kick panels on either the driver's side or passenger's side, insert CAN-View cable, ribbon cable (for LED board) and EV mode cable (1 wire) and route into trunk.

==Air Vents (Classic Method)==
Remove spare tire and the two black drain plugs that sit in the tire well. You may have to use a dremmel to open the hole so you can drop in the [Delete later-(Ron I think I found a piece of conduit that will flush mount in here. The PVC pipe can be glued to it. I’ll get you a part number and picture. By doing this a project could be prepped weeks in advance and the spare will still fit in there until the final conversion days.) ] 2” PVC threaded coupling. Next connect the 2” 90 deg. Elbow and then a length of 2” PVC pipe per this photo (add photo showing underside of car with both pipes pointing back to the rear.)

==Installing the Outlet Box (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''Please help us finish this section! Write chris at infolaunch.com to help and for the 120 volt wiring schematics that need to be posted here.'''

Take a standard plastic wall 4 gang outlet box, route a 12/3 cable into the box (with strain relief), and wire one duplex (2 individual outlets) directly to the incoming power. Then wire one outlet of the other duplex through one relay, and the other through the second relay (such that the outlets are on only when the relays are on.) The 2 individual outlets controlled by relays are designed for heating pads for the OEM battery and the PHEV battery pack. The other 2, always on when plugged in outlets are designed to power the charger and the power supply.

==Install Charger / Electronics Box (Alternative Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded.

'''Todo''' Add relevant photos from RawData page

Take a sheet of zinc coated steel and cut it out so that it fits neatly in the bottom of the tire well. Drill a hole in the center where the spare tire screw goes (used to hold the sheet in place.) Then, place the charger in the back, behind the center hole. It may be necessary to use pipe or washers to offset the charger from the steel sheet an inch or so to get it to fit (depends on charger used.) Drill holes through the steel sheet and mount charger to it. Then, put a thin carpet or sturdy insulation on the underside of the steel sheet to prevent rattling while driving. It may be necessary to use a 3/4" small block of wood with a hole through the middle to offset the center of the steel where the screw goes into the tire well mount to keep the steel from bending / rattling while driving. The screw is metric. Then, using several strips of extra strength velcro, velcro the bottom of the electronics box to the steel sheet.

==Install Batt. Box Foundation / Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
Line up the battery box support steel tubes where they should go and drill holes into the trunk floor. It may be necessary to remove part or all of the heat shielding from the muffler on the underside of the car to find the holes. Bolt down.

('''Todo''' Need to detail removing the heat shield on the underside of the car.)
To remove the plastic shield on the driver's side rear of the car, use a flat screw driver to pop out the 3 fasteners. On the back of the shield there is a 10mm bolt holding the plastic shield in place which also needs to be removed.

==Install Battery Box Foundation (Alternative Method)==
'''Todo''' This needs to be better documented

'''Todo''' Add diagram to this section (copy from above)

Remove the two bolts holding down the OEM battery in that stick out into the tire well. Mount the modified I beam brackets so that the back with the screw hole is facing directly towards the back of the car. Drill a hole in the rear support aluminum angle iron to match with those screw holes, countersink a flat screw into that. (see diagram and photos for details on how everything goes together.) On the driver's side, drill a hole through the aluminum for the post on the SKS sensor. The middle section just sits on the steel floor, though bolts into the Prius body may be a good idea. (its held in primarily by the battery box top, but extra strength in the event of a crash would be good.) The rear piece needs to have holes drilled in the Prius steel floor and the steel angle irons (see diagram) bolted to either the steel floor or to the frame member below them off to the side a bit. If bolting to the steel floor, a steel strip on the opposite side should be used, and at least 2 bolts should be used for added strength.

==OEM Battery Fan Control Tap==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|Fan Control, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
'''Todo''' Upload new version of schematic

Taps must be added to force the OEM fan on at lower temperatures so the car can remain in EV mode.

The tapping is done at the OEM battery fan. You reach it by taking the right rear inner body panel off (instructions in the Toyota service manual), reaching up inside the ducting, above the right rear wheelwell, and unplugging the power plug to the fan. The plug is not visible; you must unplug it (and plug it in again) by feel. The plug has two light green wires attached to one pin, and two violet wires attached to the other.

Use #18 or larger wires for all of the following. All three wires are run down to the control board, then the OEM battery plug is plugged back into the fan.

Alternative 1: Attach a green wire to one or both of the light green wires, e.g. via a red clip-on wire splice (make sure it makes solid contact). Then cut both of the violet wires about 2" from the OEM battery fan plug. Splice a violet wire onto both of the violet wires that were cut off, and a black wire to one or both of the violet wires still attached to the plug. Splice all three (1N5402, 1N5403, or 1N5404) 3A diodes in parallel as shown, between the violet and black wires near the fan plug, with the cathode (the end with the band) connected to the violet wire. For proper heat dissipation, make sure that the leads and all connections are well insulated, that the body of each diode is open to air flow, and that the diodes are not pressed against each other, and that the whole assembly, when the plug is plugged in, is solidly suspended in mid-air. Three 3A diodes are used in parallel for a maximum of 5A because heat dissipation may be compromised even when installed as above. The other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

<gallery>
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

Alternative 2 (does not cut Prius wires, but is expensive): Buy two each of the following Toyota replacement OEM battery plug and mating pins:
OEM battery fan plug pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12380
OEM battery fan plug mating pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12370
Splice one plug pin, a mating pin, and a green wire together. Splice a black wire to a plug pin, and a violet wire to a mating pin. Splice the three 1N5402 diodes between the violet and black wires as described above. Now remove the pin with the light green wires from the OEM battery fan plug, connect it to the mating pin with the green wire attached, and secure with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the green wire into the OEM battery fan plug. Next, remove the pin with the violet wires from the OEM battery plug and connect it to the mating pin with the violet wire attached, again securing it with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the black wire into the OEM battery fan plug. The pins are removed one at a time so that there is no possibility of getting them reversed when inserting the new pins. As above, the other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

The pins can be removed from the OEM battery fan plug by inserting a tiny screwdriver from the back to push the plastic catch aside while pulling on the wire attached to the pin.

==Safety Warning & Tips==
Batteries can be dangerous and can cause serious injury or death and should only be worked on by persons qualified to do so. Both energy hazards from arcs (shorts) and electrical shock can cause serious injury or be fatal with a battery pack of this size. Battery packs are always live and cannot be shut off! The following are safety tips to help prevent arcs and shocks, but they are only tips and should not be taken as a go-ahead to perform work on battery packs. Extreme caution must be taken as it is very easy to accidentally set something on the battery without thinking or drop something and cause a shock or arc. Hire a qualified electrician to help for this part if there is any doubt.

* Remove all jewelry, especially gold, before working with batteries.
* Do not allow metal to come into contact with the batteries that could cause an arc (best practice is to not allow any metal near the battery at all.
* Use only fully insulated tools around batteries, especially in tight spaces (available in the electrical department in most hardware stores.)
* When wiring batteries, be sure the other end of the wire will not accidentally come into contact with any other part of the battery or metal frames. Taping or otherwise protecting the ends of wires is recommended.
* Wear rated rubber electricians gloves and outer protective gloves. Electricians gloves are not fail-proof and every effort should be made to only touch insulated tools even when wearing gloves.
* If electrician gloves aren't used, only one hand should be used so that a shock will not pass current through the heart.
* Always wear gloves when working on batteries (preferably rubber.)
* Install the jumpers in 48 volt sections and then connect those smaller sections together at the very end. This way voltages higher than 48 volts are only handled when installing 4 jumpers instead of 16.
* Even though the batteries are sealed, it is still possible for them to leak and splatter acid, especially if they are just charged, heated or an arc occurs. If a leak occurs, use baking soda to neutralize the acid and properly dispose. Eye protection is a good idea.
* Orient batteries in the tray to avoid terminal contact with any bolts or any metal pieces.

==Tapping into OEM Battery==
{{Disclaimer}}

This step '''MUST''' be performed by someone qualified to work on high voltage systems. Rated rubber electricians gloves should be used for working on the inside of the battery. Please fully read the Safety section before before attempting anything. Lethal voltages are present. Hire a qualified professional for this portion.

'''Todo: This section is not finished'''

Tools needed
* Voltmeter (capable of at least 300 volts DC)
* Ratchet

Parts needed
* 3 #6 AWG ring terminal crimps (an extra is good)
* 2 #8 AWG ring terminal crimps (extras are good)
* small 1 foot section of 6 AWG wire (with insulation rated 600v or higher, preferably THHN)
* non-conductive rubber cap
* electrical tape
* several feet of #8 AWG wire with insulation rated 600v or higher
* optional: 3/8" flex tubing
* optional: other flexible conduit

# Before attempting to open the OEM battery, the orange service disconnect '''MUST''' be fully removed from the OEM battery. To do this, lift up on the orange ring. Once it pops up, push the top part out, away from the battery. This will remove the service disconnect from the battery. Do not re-install the service disconnect until the OEM battery has been closed up. '''BE AWARE, THERE ARE STILL HIGH, LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE THE BATTERY EVEN THOUGH THE DISCONNECT HAS BEEN REMOVED!'''
# Take off the support holding the OEM battery in place. The bolts are found on the driver's side wheel well, on the OEM battery and behind the driver's side rear seat top (the seat top must be removed, see above for information on removing the seat back.)
# Carefully remove the bolts holding the cover on the driver's side of the OEM battery. The 2 bolts will need to be removed from where the orange cables come out of the battery to remove the cover. '''DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE'''
# Once opened, just beyond where the two orange wires enter the OEM battery there are 2 contactors with 2 white plastic shields on top. '''NEVER TOUCH THE TWO TERMINALS AT THE SAME TIME''' Using rated, insulated electrician's rubber gloves remove one of the white plastic pieces by lifting straight up. Using a voltmeter, test the DC voltage between the contactor terminal and ground. If voltage is present (often > 100 volts DC) keep the multimeter on the terminal until the voltage decreases to below 1 volt. '''After''' that has been done on one, remove the other white plastic piece and repeat for the other side. Then check the voltage between all of the contactor terminals (all 4) to ensure they are zero. '''This step must be repeated any time the orange service plug has been inserted into the battery to ensure safety.
# Disconnect the negative wire coming from the OEM battery from the contactor. It is the one fed through the hall effect sensor (see photo.) The wire must be removed from the hall effect sensor.
# Take the piece of 6AWG wire with a 6AWG ring connector firmly attached at both ends and feed it through the hall effect sensor and connect it to the contactor where you just removed the OEM negative battery wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Feed in the new #8 AWG wire from the electronics tray through the opening where the 2 orange wires come through. Attach a #8 AWG ring connector to the wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Bolt the #6 wire from the negative contactor, the negative wire from the OEM battery and the negative #8 AWG (black) wire from the electronics tray together as shown using a lockwasher (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Then wrap tightly with electrical tape (preferably orange), so that the entire assembly is covered with several layers of tape.
# Place a rubber cap on the top and wrap the rubber assembly in tape and attach firmly to the rest of the wire.
# Next, crimp on a #8 AWG ring terminal to the #8 Red wire coming from the electronics tray.
# Remove the bolt on the positive contactor's terminal and add the #8 AWG wire as shown (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Replace the white insulators that came off the top of the contactors
# Route the wire in the same way as the black wire out area where the 2 orange wires run
# Make sure there is a little slack wire inside the OEM battery. Then, optionally wrap the 3/8" flex tubing around the 2 new wires to the electronics tray and wrap them in orange electrical tape (orange is keeping in standard for high voltage wiring in hybrids.)
# '''Before reconnecting anything, be absolutely sure that the other end of the high voltage wires are fully insulated (i.e., make sure the Anderson PP75 connectors are on and that there is electrical tape preventing them from accidentally contacting any metal.'''
# Tap a yellow #22 or larger wire onto the yellow low voltage wire going to one of the contactors and route to the electronics tray or box.
'''Todo''' Add a photo of the yellow READY wire.

<gallery>
Image:OEM_battery_exposed.jpg|The OEM battery with the support bracket removed
Image:Opening_OEM_battery.jpg|Removing the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_after_tie_in.jpg|After the OEM battery tie in is done
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_from_back_of_car.jpg|Shows the 2 white insulators on the contactors
</gallery>

==Tap into the 12v Accessory Battery==
Run 4 18 AWG wires (2 red, 2 black) from the electronics tray or box to the 12 volt accessory battery (located under the passenger side cubby hole. The 2 red wires should run into a 15 amp 32volt automotive fuse. The other side of the fuse should go to the 12v accessory battery. The black wire should either goto the black terminal on the battery or the chassis (but it must be a very clean connection to the chassis.) The other side of the wires goes to the control board through a .156" Molex KK connector.

==Reassemble the Prius Trunk==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written

==Connecting the PbA batteries==
'''Todo''' Much work needed yet

===Parts Needed===
* Qty 50 8 AWG crimp on ring terminals (probably wise to get a few extra!)
* 8 AWG wire (list total length used here.)
* Orange electrical tape
* 20x BB Battery EVP20-12B 12volt 20ah SLA AGM batteries (2 spares recommended.)

===Assembly Steps===
{{Disclaimer}}

'''Warning: Get an electrician or qualified person to do this, this is working with high voltages which can be lethal or start fires if not taken seriously.'''

Place trays in the foundation and the batteries in trays (look at photos on RawData page to see sequence.) Using crimp on ring terminals, make lengths of wire long enough to connect batteries and crimp the ring terminals on well. Make sure the crimps are very tight and make good contact. This is very important because they could otherwise heat up extremely hot and melt or start a fire. The batteries are arranged electrically into 4 60v sections. The front section and rear section are separated by one of the 60 amp 300v fuses (see HV schematics.) Each other section is separated by Anderson PP75 connectors for easy disconnect. Sections should be assembled individually to prevent voltages from being more than 60 volts until everything is ready to be connected and assembled. Leave the fuses disconnected until everything is finished. Then put on the battery box top and bolt it down.

==Optional Bumper Mounted Inlet==
This is an optional replacement for the mounted cord reel. There may be other inlets available, but a Marinco 150CCI works well and costs about $25-$30.

# Remove the plastic shield on the driver's side of the car if it hasn't been already (see above for instructions.)
# Using a circular drill bit with starting drill bit, drill a 1 7/8" hole in the bumper where you want the inlet to be mounted.
# Route the cable to the inlet before installing the inlet.
# Fasten the inlet to the bumper

==Optional Mounted Cord Reel (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written by someone who knows how to do this.

==The First Tests==
'''Todo''' This needs much more work

First, using a voltmeter check to make sure that voltages are present both from the OEM battery (should be 220v or so) and from the PHEV pack (should be around 260v.) Plug the car into a ground faulted (preferably also arc faulted) outlet and check to see if the car starts to charge the PHEV battery.

Power up the car very briefly and check to see if the control board turns on. With CAN-View in ORIG mode (not PHEV), make sure that HVRL1 and HVRL2 are both off. Some LEDs should be on on the LED board.

==Programming CAN-View/Control Board==

'''Todo''' Polish this description and format nicely like Ryan's PiPrius ones.

Set the dip switches on the control board:
DIPSW1: 1=OFF, 2=OFF, 3=ON, 4=ON, 5=ON [ HVRL1 = RL3 OR RL5 OR RL6 ] (RL2 will be reserved to force the OEM battery fan ON)
DIPSW1: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control the optional current-limiting power resistor)
DIPSW2: 1-5=OFF (later, 2=ON will force the OEM battery fan ON when RL2 is ON)
DIPSW2: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control a "Future use #1" output)

RL2 [settings don't yet matter]

For highway driving:
RL3 ON < 71 OFF > 73 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON 25 OFF < 30 Acl (Amps DCL)
ON > 45 OFF < 40 MPH
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
3 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

To stay in EV mode during acceleration:
RL5 ON < 200 OFF > 235V
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? YES

For low speeds, to promote EV mode driving:
RL6 ON < 61 OFF > 63 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

{{Disclaimer}}

PriusPlus-PartsList

2007-07-14T14:15:49Z

Cewert: LED Board Parts list imported

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}

=Parts list=
This page will become a master parts list for the entire PriusPlus project, will contain links to DigiKey's quick order list, and descriptions weighing the pro's and con's of different larger items (for example, chargers, batteries). '''This page is by no means complete yet'''

==High Voltage Parts List==
'''Warning: This list is a very much a work-in-progress!'''

DigiKey parts can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014150 here].
Mating connectors can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014585 here].

Non-DigiKey Parts
{| border=1 cellpadding=4 cellspacing=0 |
| Photo || Qty || Description || Manufacture || Model # || Est. Cost
|-
| [[Image:EV200 Contactor.JPG|50px]] || 2 || Contactor || Kilovac || EV200-AAANA || $85-120/ea
|-
| [[Image:JTN60060 Fuse Holder.JPG|50px]] || 2 || Finger safe fuse holder || Bussman || JT60060 || $28/ea
|-
| [[Image:LPJ-60SP.JPG|50px]] || 2 || 60 amp 300 VDC fuse || Bussman || LPJ-60SP || $22/ea
|-
| [[Image:PP75 Connectors.jpg|50px]] || 4 || Black 75 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP75 || ~$2.00/ea
|-
| [[Image:PP75 Connectors.jpg|50px]] || 4 || Red 75 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP75 || ~$2.00/ea
|-
| [[Image:PP75 Connectors.jpg|50px]] || 8+ || 8AWG crimps for PP75 || Anderson || PP75 || $/ea
|-
| || 6 || Red 15 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 6 || Black 15 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 6 || Green 15 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 2 || White 15 amp connector housings || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 2 || Yellow 15 amp connector housings|| Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 22+ || ? AWG crimps for PP15 || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
|-
| || 3 || 12v Fans 120mm (>100CFM airflow) || || || $10-15/ea
|-
|}

DigiKey Parts List
{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HVPartsList}}

==Control Board Parts List==
'''A few issues have been found with the posted version of the control board schematics. The new version will be posted shortly, but the parts list is expected to change quite a bit.'''
[http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014148 here]

{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList}}

==LED Board Parts List==
'''A few issues have been found with the posted version of the control board schematics. The new version will be posted shortly, but the parts list is expected to change a bit.''
The public DigiKey parts list for the LED board can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014149 here]
{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdPartsList}}

PriusPlus-PartsList

2007-07-14T14:12:59Z

Cewert: import control board parts list

PriusPlus-Instructions

2007-07-14T14:12:47Z

Cewert: /* Control Board */ cleanup, moved parts list to PartsList page

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----
Welcome to the PriusPlus Do-It-Yourself documentation. Below you will find details on converting your 2004-2007 Prius to a plug-in hybrid via the [[PriusPlus]] method. The documentation is laid out in three parts. The [[PriusPlus]] gives an overview of the conversion and lists benefits, limitations and normal operating behavior. [[PriusPlus-Theory]] gives details the theory behind how the conversion works. The PriusPlus-Instructions page (this page) gives detailed, ordered instructions on how to convert your Prius yourself.

==Choosing a Mouting Method==
Before getting too far, you will need to decide on a mounting method. Currently, there are 2 methods, each with their benefits. The majority of the instructions are the same for both methods, however, some sections will be labeled as "classic mounting method" and others as "alternative mounting method" and contain instructions for the specific method.

===Classic Mounting Method===
The "Classic" method is the classic CalCars style. The spare tire well is largely unchanged, the batteries are placed in the very rear of the trunk, an electronics tray is placed in front of the batteries and the charger is placed in the left cubby hole (the carpeting in the cubby hole is cut back.) This method allows for easy access to all the electronics, including the charger.

<gallery>
Image:P10400.JPG|Classic method - spare tire well
Image:P10398.JPG|Classic method - charger
Image:Sven_car_finished_trunk_view.JPG|Finished trunk (top view)
</gallery>

===Alternative Mounting Method===
The "Alternative" method seeks to maximize usable trunk space and minimize visible changes. With this design, the batteries are moved as far forward as possible and the supporting electronics and charger are located in the spare tire well. The batteries stick up through the false floor, but are flush with the Prius's floor. Most of the high voltage electronics are isolated from the low voltage electronics, however some of the high voltage electronics and the charger are more difficult to access because they are below the batteries (they tend to be the more reliable parts, however.) The low voltage electronics are easily accessible.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well.jpg|Spare tire well
Image:Batteries_being_installed_2.jpg|Location of Batteries
Image:Finished Alt Mounting Method.jpg|Finished Product
</gallery>

==CAN-View & EV Mode button==
===Overview===
Start by installing CAN-View. CAN-View gives you insight into how the Prius works and it is best to have it installed before doing the conversion. Please see [[PriusPlus-Theory]] for more information on what [[CAN-View]] and [[Prius EV Mode Button]] do and how they work.

You will need to purchase [[CAN-View]] from [http://hybridinterfaces.ca hybridinterfaces.ca]. There are currently 4 versions of [[CAN-View]] available. Version 3 and 3plus require an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or [[MFD]]) while Version 4 and 4plus work with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) Version 4 has the PHEV relays built onto the main board, while version 3 has an extra optional PHEV relay board, which is required for this conversion. Version 3plus and 4plus feature a smart relay board which can interact with battery regulators. At the present, the PriusPlus conversion method does not make use of the smart relay features in the "plus" models.

===Installation===
Approx. time requirement: 45 minutes - 2 hours

The [[CAN-View]] is installed differently depending on whether or not your car is equipped with in-dash navigation. Detailed instructions with photos are available [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html with NAV] or [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html without NAV]. It is best to install and route the wires for the [[Prius EV Mode Button]] at the same time since they both require disassembling the dash.

'''ToDo''' the following section is shared with the [[PiPrius_conversion_process#CAN-View_.26_EV_Mode_Button]] documentation. Any changes should be generic enough to satisfy both, place project specific notes above or below it. Another set of instructions may be needed for the CAN-View Version 4 which does not integrate with the OEM [[MFD]] and gets power directly from the OBDII port, [http://priuschat.com/index.php?act=ST&f=62&t=27906 Prius CAN View V4 Mounting options] at PriusChat.com covers various ways of mounting the second touch screen.

{{Prius CAN-ViewV3 & EV-Mode Button}}

==Battery Tray Construction==
===Overview===
The next step is to start constructing the mechanical components which will be used in the conversion. The battery trays are where the new lead-acid (PbA) batteries will sit. The trays will then be mounted on rails in the trunk and a top will be placed over it to secure the batteries down. The battery trays are the same for both the classic and alternative mounting methods.

Approx. Time Requirement: 10-12 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits: 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 7/32
* Hacksaw with metal blade (or other method of cutting 1/8 inch aluminum)
* Drill or Dremel
* Drill or Dremel press recommended
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Wood saw
* Pop riveting tool
* Grinder (either an attachment for Dremel or bench grinder)

===Parts needed===
* Aluminum material
** Either 3/4" or 1" by 1/8" thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections, 1x 4 foot section)
** 1/4" Aluminum channel iron (1x 8 foot section, 1x 4 foot section)
* 32 5/32 thick, 1/4 inch grip pop rivets
* 32 #4 flat head self threading screws at least 1/2 inch long
* Small piece of plywood for making jig (optional, but makes things easier.)
* Small pieces of wood for making jig (optional)
* Wood screws (optional)

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 sections of the 1/4" aluminum channel iron to the exact length of the batteries (should be 7 1/16 inches.) Having the batteries actually present is important for measuring. A total of 16 of these pieces will be required for all 4 trays.
# Lay out 5 batteries and put the 1/4" aluminum channel irons between the batteries. Measure out the length and cut 2 sections of the aluminum angle irons to the length of the batteries (should be 16 5/16 inches.) A total of 8 of these sections will be required for all 4 trays. See photos below for how to layout the pack.
# Layout 5 batteries with the angle irons from above and measure the width and cut the 2 end pieces (should be 7 1/4 inches.) A total of 8 of these pieces will be required for all 4.
# Lay everything out on top of a piece of plywood and double check measurements with batteries set in the tray as shown below. It is important that the end pieces are under the pieces that run along the length of the tray.
# Screw down blocks of wood around outside of the frame as shown to hold the outside angle irons exactly where they are.
# Remove the batteries one by one and put in pieces of wood where the batteries were to hold frame and aluminum channel irons in place. This jig will hold all the pieces together while drilling.
# Using a small drill press or preferably a Dremel drill press, drill 2 3/32" holes into each corner (or probably only one if using 3/4" angle irons.)
# Once the holes are drilled, remove the top angle iron (the 16 5/16 inch one) and using a 1/8" drill bit, widen the holes so that the #4 screws can pass through them freely (only do this on the longer angle iron, not the bottom!) Then counter-sink with a 7/32" drill bit so that the screw will sit flush in the aluminum (see photo below.)
# Put in #4 self threading screws. The screws should grab into the smaller angle iron and hold the angle irons together firmly. The screws will stick out the other side.
# Using a cutoff attachment on a Dremel (or a hacksaw, but Dremel works much better), cut the screws off. Then grind them down flat using the cut off attachment on a Dremel or a bench grinder.
# Re-insert the finished angle iron frame into jig, and place channel irons in place. Drill 5/32" holes at each end.
# Using a pop-riveting tool, insert 5/32" aluminum rivets into the channel irons from the bottom and tighten.
# Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 trays.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All necessary cut aluminum pieces for 4 trays
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Tray set together with batteries
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|Tray parts laid out
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Place wood around tray frame
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in aluminum
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Finished corner with screws in
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Classic Method)==
Approx. Time Requirement:

===Overview===
The battery box supports are what the battery trays will sit on. In the classic method, aluminum angle irons are bolted onto 2 steel tubes which are bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the alternative method, skip this section and goto the next section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 2 3 foot long 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch steel tubes.
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length may be slightly long, you will probably need to adjust the length when mounting!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly. This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Cut the steel tubes to the appropriate length ('''Todo''' Get exact length)
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays for a 1/4" nut.
# Mark the locations where the aluminum angles sit on the steel tube and drill holes.
# Drill holes in the opposite side of the steel tube, big enough to fit the head of a bolt through
# Drill 2 additional holes in each steel tube in the middle of where each tray will sit. Again, drill out the other side so a nut can be fit through it. Then put a threaded 5/8" threaded rod through the hole and put a nut on each side (and a lockwasher on one side.) This will serve as the holddown for the battery box top.
# Drill 4 holes through the tube, evenly spaced over the entire length. These holes are for mounting the battery box frame to the car.
# Drill additional holes as needed to support the electronics tray
# Once holes are all drilled, coat the steel tube with anti-rust paint / spraypaint.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:P1240040.JPG|The completed battery box sitting on steel tubes (unattached)
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Top_Battery_Box_With_Corner_Bracket.JPG|During construction, shows supports without optional strip in center.
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Alternative Method)==
[[Image:Alt Mounting Diagram.png|thumb|The alternative mounting method diagram]]
Approx. Time Requirement: 4-7 hours

===Overview===
In the alternative mounting method, the battery trays sit on aluminum angle irons which either sit directly on the trunk or on rubber pads (which allow the use of battery heaters.) The battery box is supported by brackets attached to the OEM battery mouting screws and two steel angle irons bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the classic mounting method, skip this section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)
* Bench grinder

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 16 inches of steel 1 1/2 inch angle iron
* 2 joist hangers for electrical conduit
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts
* 1/4" nuts
* 1/4" or 1/8" rubber pads (optional, but required if heating pads are to be installed.)
* anti-rust paint or spraypaint

===Assembly Steps===
===The center strip===
# See the diagram to the right to see how everything assembles.
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length is too long, you will need to adjust the length when mounting, so be careful drilling holes, test fit first!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly (for strength). This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Lay out 2 aluminum angles so they form a "T" with the top of the "T" being on the floor. Optionaly insert the aluminum strip into the middle
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays in the middle for a 1/4" nut.
# Drill holes through each end of the assembly to anchor the two angles (and optionally the strip) together. The holes must be outside where the battery trays will sit (remember to leave space for a 1/4" nut (which is larger than 1/4")
# Optionally, cut rubber pads to go under each of the aluminum angles.
# Other holes will need to be drilled later when ready to mount.

===Steel Angle Iron Brackets===
# Cut 4 sections of steel angle iron about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long
# Drill a 3/8" hole in the center on one side of the angle iron.
# On the inside of the angle iron, weld (or use JB weld or another strong epoxy) a 5/8" nut on the inside so a bolt can go through the angle iron and into the nut
# Drill a 5/8" hole in the center of the other side of the angle iron
# Paint the steel with a clean metal anti-rust primer (then allow to dry)
# Spray or paint the primed steel with anti-rust paint

===Steel Supports===
# Cut 2 sections of steel angle iron about 4 inches long each
# Drill 2 5/8" holes in the bottom of the angle iron
# These will be used later for mounting into the Prius - the rest of the assembly must be done later

'''Todo''' This isn't finished - check the diagram for more details

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Alt method support angle irons.jpg|Test fitting in the Prius
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Support Steel mounted
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Shows the optional rubber pads
Image:Right_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the right side
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the left side
Image:Entire_alt_batt_box_mounting_supports.jpg|With the battery trays in
</gallery>

==Battery Box Top==
Approx. Time Requirement: 10 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits:
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade very helpful (must be capable of 45 degree angles.)
* Tablesaw with Plexiglass blade, or other method of cutting Plexiglass
* Drill
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Dremmel
* Cutoff attachment for Dremmel

===Parts Needed===
* Aluminum material
** 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
** 1 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (1x 4 foot sections for classic - 8 feet for the alternative mounting method)
* Corner brackets - can be found at Mennards in shelving hardware section
* 24x #8-32 flat head machine screws
* 16x #8-32 nuts
* 8x #8-32 x 1/4 inch binding posts
* 1/4 inch Plexiglass or (preferably) Lexan sheet, at least 33 inches by 18.5 inches.
* 4 small non-conductive nylon screw and binding posts (for holding Plexiglass "shields")

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 2 strips of Plexiglass (or Lexan) 32.5 inches by 1.5 inches. These peices will act as a sheild between the battery terminals and the aluminum (to prevent shorts.)
# Cut opposing 45 degree angle at the end of 2 of the 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron peices to form one of the corners.
# Layout the four trays in the frame angle irons (important for getting correct measurements.)
# Place 4 batteries in the trays, one in each corner (see photo.)
# Place electrical tape over the terminals on the batteries to help prevent any arcs.
# Make sure to leave space for the middle bolt down and bolts for the frame. (The battery box base isn't finished yet and requires space in the middle.)
# Set one of the cut angle irons on top of the batteries (be sure not to arc the batteries!) Place the Plexiglass "Shield" in place and use clamps to it there. This allows for accurate measurements.
# Lay the other angle iron with the opposing 45 degree angle out and measure the width & cut with a 45 degree angle (end peice should be about 15 3/8 inches wide.)
# Hold the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top to the end of the battery pack (use clamps to hold it on.) For the classic mounting method, this is only required on the left and right sides. For the alternative mouting method, the angles should go around the entire battery box top.
# Holding the angle irons and bolt down angle iron right where they should be, set the corner bracket on the corner and make sure that it covers the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the battery box.
# Mark where the holes on the top of the bracket are on the angle iron (or drill holes if necessary.)
# Using the Dremmel cutoff tool, cut down the binding post so that it does not stick all the way thought the bracket if set on top (see picture.)
# Drill a hole in the angle iron and countersink it so that the #8 flat top machine screw fits flush. Put screw in and repeate for the other angle iron.
# Repeate for other sides cutting the angle irons to the right lengths. The length of the angle iron on the side of the battery box should be 34 inches.
# To strengthen the structure of the top, drill holes in from the sides, countersink from the inside and bolt using #8 flat head screws and nuts (bolting the top down is important, remember that the top must hold weight if the car goes over large bumps or is involved in an accident or rollover.)
# Using a drill press or drill, drill through the Plexiglass on the side and the aluminum angle irons near the edges. Countersink the hole in the Plexiglass and insert non-conductive nylon screws and binding posts to hold Plexiglass in place.
# Using the Dremmel with cutoff attachment, grind off the bolts that are sticking out.
# Cut the Plexiglass sheet to the correct length and width to fit snuggly into the top of the battery box.
# Holes need to be drilled into the bolt down angle irons on each side, but I don't have those measurements and it depends how it is bolted down. Holes also need to be drilled in the middle on each aluminum angle iron to clamp down the top to the bottom of the battery box for extra strength.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
</gallery>

===Tips===
* If you are buying a new metal cutoff blade for an existing chopsaw, make sure to get one that is large enough to actually cut all the way through the metal with your specific chopsaw.
* Aluminum blades with small teeth do not seem to work well for cutting through 1/8 aluminum angle irons! They grab and tend to throw the saw and are almost impossible to control. Don't attempt an aluminum cutting blade with teeth on a radial saw!
* A hacksaw can work in place of the metal cutoff blade, however it is much more difficult to get straight cuts, even with a metal guide for the hacksaw.
* A jig saw seems to work well for cutting the aluminum angle irons

==Control Board==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|Control Board, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
Approx. time requirement: 6-8 hours

'''A few issues have been found with the posted version of the control board schematics. The new version will be posted shortly with a corrected parts list.'''

===Tools Needed===
* Soldering Iron
* Solder

===Parts Needed===
See the [[PriusPlus-PartsList]] page for the complete parts list and an easy order DigiKey link.
'''Todo''' The parts list should ideally be moved to the parts list page.

===Assembly Steps===
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBd_layout.png|right|thumb|250px|Control Board Layout]]

Solder the components to the printed board according to the schematics above. Make sure to install R3, D1 & D2 1/4 inches off the board and to solder the DIP sockets without the IC's installed. If new at soldering, make sure to use a heat sink for soldering transistors.

==LED Board==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|LED Board, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
Approx. time requirement: '''Todo'''

===Tools Needed===
* Soldering Iron
* Solder

===Parts Needed===
'''Todo''' The parts list should ideally be moved to the parts list page.
'''Todo''' The schematics, parts lists need to be updated to match new schematics.
The public DigiKey parts list for the LED board can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014149 here]
{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdPartsList}}

==Electronic/Electric Sub Part Construction==
===Diode===
The diode must be firmly and correctly mounted to the heatsink. The diode has a 1/4" stud which passes through the heatsink but does not touch the heatsink. A shoulder or insulating nylon tube must be placed over the stud where the diode passes through the heatsink. This is important so the diode does not electrically make contact with the heatsink. Additionally, 2 electrically insulating, but thermally conductive pads (or mica) must be used on both sides of the heatsink to prevent the diode from making contact on either side of the heatsink. See photos below for how to mount the diode:

====Photos====
<gallery>
Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
</gallery>

===Snubbers===
Solder together one lead of the .47uF, 500V capacitor and one lead of the 22 ohm 1 watt resistor. Put heat shrink tubing around the other 2 leads and crimp on ring terminals and solder the crimps to the leads for a better connection. The snubbers are then placed across the two contactors.

===Low Voltage Interconnects===
A list of helpful Molex connector tools on DigiKey can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014151 here].

'''Todo'''

==Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
[[Image:Electronics Tray Classic.png|thumb|Electronics Tray diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help''' Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut the bottom, back, sides. Cut holes in the fans on the sides, and use small shelving brackets to secure the pieces together. Attach electronic components with screws. Plexiglass top.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:P10380.JPG|The electronics tray
</gallery>

==Electronics Box (Alternative)==
[[Image:Electronics Box Alternative.png|thumb|Electronics Box diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help'''. Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut a bottom, sides, back, front, middle divider, fan divider, and rear top. The front top is 1/4" plexiglass for easy viewing (or more ABS if preferred.) The fan divider is designed to be easily retractable for easy replacement without removing the battery box. Mount the fuse holders with 2 screws in the middle, the contactors, power supply, relays, etc. Preferably use very short self tapping screws that don't go through the plastic to provide electrical isolation from the rest of the car (optional.) It may be useful to use a Dremmel with a small drill bit to star the hole, use the self tapping screw to start the thread and then use a cutoff small screw. Otherwise, countersink a flat head screw on the outside of the box and use nuts and lock washers on the inside.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics Box Assembly - Side Vents.jpg|Starting with the materials
Image:Electronics_box_being_assembled.jpg|The electronics box taped together
Image:Electronics Box Assembly Mounting Components.jpg|Components being mounted
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_1.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_2.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:HVD1_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the diode
Image:Left_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Left outside of electronics box
Image:Right_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Right outside of the electronics box
Image:Contactors_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted contactors
Image:Fuses_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted fuses
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well_2.jpg|The electronics box with the HV section's cover resting on top
</gallery>

==Installation Into the Prius==
Now that the sub components are built, it is time to start installing things into the Prius. The following sections will each attempt to leave the Prius in a drivable state after the section is completed.

=Disassembling the Prius=
==Remove user-removable parts==
'''Todo''' This needs to be finished
Remove the false floor, the central storage bin, side storage bin and spare tire.

==Battery Carpet & Seat Removal==
{| align=right
| [[Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|thumb|These bolts must be taken out]]
|| [[Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|thumb|Shows the carpeting being removed from the OEM battery]]
|| [[Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|thumb|right|Removing the bolts for the rear seats]]
|}
Remove the two bolts holding down the carpeting over the OEM battery. Be sure to keep them in a plastic bag so they do not get lost. Then lift up on the Velcro attaching to the rear seats. Then, simply pull straight up on the carpeting assembly. It will snap out and expose the top of the OEM battery. There are 2 carpeting clips that must be removed to fully remove the cover from the OEM battery.

With the OEM battery carpeting removed (or the Velcro simply pulled up), remove the two bolts holding in the seat. The seat back then comes out giving access to the front side of the OEM battery (needed for the OEM tie-in.)

==Side panel Removal==
Both of the carpeted side panels in the rear of the Prius must be removed. The driver's side panel must be removed to access the OEM battery for tie-in, and the passenger's side must be removed to access the OEM battery fan to add the override wiring.
# Remove the screen from the trunk (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the cover from the driver's side storage cubby hole (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the black strip in the very rear of the trunk (where the latch is for the trunk) by simply lifting straight up (it will pop out.)
# Remove the arm rest sections on the outside of the seats ('''Todo - add photos''')
# Remove the 10mm bolt inside the screen holder using a ratchet with an extension
# Remove the 10mm bolt in the back of the side panel in the section which holds the screen if were deployed. This can be done with a 10mm ratchet or a screwdriver.
# Pull straight out on the entire assembly.
# On the drivers side, there is a wire which connects to the trunk lamp which needs to be disconnected.
# Repeat instructions for the passenger's side.

==Routing CAN-View cables to trunk==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be improved.

Take off the kick panels on either the driver's side or passenger's side, insert CAN-View cable, ribbon cable (for LED board) and EV mode cable (1 wire) and route into trunk.

==Air Vents (Classic Method)==
Remove spare tire and the two black drain plugs that sit in the tire well. You may have to use a dremmel to open the hole so you can drop in the [Delete later-(Ron I think I found a piece of conduit that will flush mount in here. The PVC pipe can be glued to it. I’ll get you a part number and picture. By doing this a project could be prepped weeks in advance and the spare will still fit in there until the final conversion days.) ] 2” PVC threaded coupling. Next connect the 2” 90 deg. Elbow and then a length of 2” PVC pipe per this photo (add photo showing underside of car with both pipes pointing back to the rear.)

==Installing the Outlet Box (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''Please help us finish this section! Write chris at infolaunch.com to help and for the 120 volt wiring schematics that need to be posted here.'''

Take a standard plastic wall 4 gang outlet box, route a 12/3 cable into the box (with strain relief), and wire one duplex (2 individual outlets) directly to the incoming power. Then wire one outlet of the other duplex through one relay, and the other through the second relay (such that the outlets are on only when the relays are on.) The 2 individual outlets controlled by relays are designed for heating pads for the OEM battery and the PHEV battery pack. The other 2, always on when plugged in outlets are designed to power the charger and the power supply.

==Install Charger / Electronics Box (Alternative Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded.

'''Todo''' Add relevant photos from RawData page

Take a sheet of zinc coated steel and cut it out so that it fits neatly in the bottom of the tire well. Drill a hole in the center where the spare tire screw goes (used to hold the sheet in place.) Then, place the charger in the back, behind the center hole. It may be necessary to use pipe or washers to offset the charger from the steel sheet an inch or so to get it to fit (depends on charger used.) Drill holes through the steel sheet and mount charger to it. Then, put a thin carpet or sturdy insulation on the underside of the steel sheet to prevent rattling while driving. It may be necessary to use a 3/4" small block of wood with a hole through the middle to offset the center of the steel where the screw goes into the tire well mount to keep the steel from bending / rattling while driving. The screw is metric. Then, using several strips of extra strength velcro, velcro the bottom of the electronics box to the steel sheet.

==Install Batt. Box Foundation / Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
Line up the battery box support steel tubes where they should go and drill holes into the trunk floor. It may be necessary to remove part or all of the heat shielding from the muffler on the underside of the car to find the holes. Bolt down.

('''Todo''' Need to detail removing the heat shield on the underside of the car.)
To remove the plastic shield on the driver's side rear of the car, use a flat screw driver to pop out the 3 fasteners. On the back of the shield there is a 10mm bolt holding the plastic shield in place which also needs to be removed.

==Install Battery Box Foundation (Alternative Method)==
'''Todo''' This needs to be better documented

'''Todo''' Add diagram to this section (copy from above)

Remove the two bolts holding down the OEM battery in that stick out into the tire well. Mount the modified I beam brackets so that the back with the screw hole is facing directly towards the back of the car. Drill a hole in the rear support aluminum angle iron to match with those screw holes, countersink a flat screw into that. (see diagram and photos for details on how everything goes together.) On the driver's side, drill a hole through the aluminum for the post on the SKS sensor. The middle section just sits on the steel floor, though bolts into the Prius body may be a good idea. (its held in primarily by the battery box top, but extra strength in the event of a crash would be good.) The rear piece needs to have holes drilled in the Prius steel floor and the steel angle irons (see diagram) bolted to either the steel floor or to the frame member below them off to the side a bit. If bolting to the steel floor, a steel strip on the opposite side should be used, and at least 2 bolts should be used for added strength.

==OEM Battery Fan Control Tap==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|Fan Control, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
'''Todo''' Upload new version of schematic

Taps must be added to force the OEM fan on at lower temperatures so the car can remain in EV mode.

The tapping is done at the OEM battery fan. You reach it by taking the right rear inner body panel off (instructions in the Toyota service manual), reaching up inside the ducting, above the right rear wheelwell, and unplugging the power plug to the fan. The plug is not visible; you must unplug it (and plug it in again) by feel. The plug has two light green wires attached to one pin, and two violet wires attached to the other.

Use #18 or larger wires for all of the following. All three wires are run down to the control board, then the OEM battery plug is plugged back into the fan.

Alternative 1: Attach a green wire to one or both of the light green wires, e.g. via a red clip-on wire splice (make sure it makes solid contact). Then cut both of the violet wires about 2" from the OEM battery fan plug. Splice a violet wire onto both of the violet wires that were cut off, and a black wire to one or both of the violet wires still attached to the plug. Splice all three (1N5402, 1N5403, or 1N5404) 3A diodes in parallel as shown, between the violet and black wires near the fan plug, with the cathode (the end with the band) connected to the violet wire. For proper heat dissipation, make sure that the leads and all connections are well insulated, that the body of each diode is open to air flow, and that the diodes are not pressed against each other, and that the whole assembly, when the plug is plugged in, is solidly suspended in mid-air. Three 3A diodes are used in parallel for a maximum of 5A because heat dissipation may be compromised even when installed as above. The other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

<gallery>
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

Alternative 2 (does not cut Prius wires, but is expensive): Buy two each of the following Toyota replacement OEM battery plug and mating pins:
OEM battery fan plug pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12380
OEM battery fan plug mating pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12370
Splice one plug pin, a mating pin, and a green wire together. Splice a black wire to a plug pin, and a violet wire to a mating pin. Splice the three 1N5402 diodes between the violet and black wires as described above. Now remove the pin with the light green wires from the OEM battery fan plug, connect it to the mating pin with the green wire attached, and secure with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the green wire into the OEM battery fan plug. Next, remove the pin with the violet wires from the OEM battery plug and connect it to the mating pin with the violet wire attached, again securing it with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the black wire into the OEM battery fan plug. The pins are removed one at a time so that there is no possibility of getting them reversed when inserting the new pins. As above, the other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

The pins can be removed from the OEM battery fan plug by inserting a tiny screwdriver from the back to push the plastic catch aside while pulling on the wire attached to the pin.

==Safety Warning & Tips==
Batteries can be dangerous and can cause serious injury or death and should only be worked on by persons qualified to do so. Both energy hazards from arcs (shorts) and electrical shock can cause serious injury or be fatal with a battery pack of this size. Battery packs are always live and cannot be shut off! The following are safety tips to help prevent arcs and shocks, but they are only tips and should not be taken as a go-ahead to perform work on battery packs. Extreme caution must be taken as it is very easy to accidentally set something on the battery without thinking or drop something and cause a shock or arc. Hire a qualified electrician to help for this part if there is any doubt.

* Remove all jewelry, especially gold, before working with batteries.
* Do not allow metal to come into contact with the batteries that could cause an arc (best practice is to not allow any metal near the battery at all.
* Use only fully insulated tools around batteries, especially in tight spaces (available in the electrical department in most hardware stores.)
* When wiring batteries, be sure the other end of the wire will not accidentally come into contact with any other part of the battery or metal frames. Taping or otherwise protecting the ends of wires is recommended.
* Wear rated rubber electricians gloves and outer protective gloves. Electricians gloves are not fail-proof and every effort should be made to only touch insulated tools even when wearing gloves.
* If electrician gloves aren't used, only one hand should be used so that a shock will not pass current through the heart.
* Always wear gloves when working on batteries (preferably rubber.)
* Install the jumpers in 48 volt sections and then connect those smaller sections together at the very end. This way voltages higher than 48 volts are only handled when installing 4 jumpers instead of 16.
* Even though the batteries are sealed, it is still possible for them to leak and splatter acid, especially if they are just charged, heated or an arc occurs. If a leak occurs, use baking soda to neutralize the acid and properly dispose. Eye protection is a good idea.
* Orient batteries in the tray to avoid terminal contact with any bolts or any metal pieces.

==Tapping into OEM Battery==
{{Disclaimer}}

This step '''MUST''' be performed by someone qualified to work on high voltage systems. Rated rubber electricians gloves should be used for working on the inside of the battery. Please fully read the Safety section before before attempting anything. Lethal voltages are present. Hire a qualified professional for this portion.

'''Todo: This section is not finished'''

Tools needed
* Voltmeter (capable of at least 300 volts DC)
* Ratchet

Parts needed
* 3 #6 AWG ring terminal crimps (an extra is good)
* 2 #8 AWG ring terminal crimps (extras are good)
* small 1 foot section of 6 AWG wire (with insulation rated 600v or higher, preferably THHN)
* non-conductive rubber cap
* electrical tape
* several feet of #8 AWG wire with insulation rated 600v or higher
* optional: 3/8" flex tubing
* optional: other flexible conduit

# Before attempting to open the OEM battery, the orange service disconnect '''MUST''' be fully removed from the OEM battery. To do this, lift up on the orange ring. Once it pops up, push the top part out, away from the battery. This will remove the service disconnect from the battery. Do not re-install the service disconnect until the OEM battery has been closed up. '''BE AWARE, THERE ARE STILL HIGH, LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE THE BATTERY EVEN THOUGH THE DISCONNECT HAS BEEN REMOVED!'''
# Take off the support holding the OEM battery in place. The bolts are found on the driver's side wheel well, on the OEM battery and behind the driver's side rear seat top (the seat top must be removed, see above for information on removing the seat back.)
# Carefully remove the bolts holding the cover on the driver's side of the OEM battery. The 2 bolts will need to be removed from where the orange cables come out of the battery to remove the cover. '''DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE'''
# Once opened, just beyond where the two orange wires enter the OEM battery there are 2 contactors with 2 white plastic shields on top. '''NEVER TOUCH THE TWO TERMINALS AT THE SAME TIME''' Using rated, insulated electrician's rubber gloves remove one of the white plastic pieces by lifting straight up. Using a voltmeter, test the DC voltage between the contactor terminal and ground. If voltage is present (often > 100 volts DC) keep the multimeter on the terminal until the voltage decreases to below 1 volt. '''After''' that has been done on one, remove the other white plastic piece and repeat for the other side. Then check the voltage between all of the contactor terminals (all 4) to ensure they are zero. '''This step must be repeated any time the orange service plug has been inserted into the battery to ensure safety.
# Disconnect the negative wire coming from the OEM battery from the contactor. It is the one fed through the hall effect sensor (see photo.) The wire must be removed from the hall effect sensor.
# Take the piece of 6AWG wire with a 6AWG ring connector firmly attached at both ends and feed it through the hall effect sensor and connect it to the contactor where you just removed the OEM negative battery wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Feed in the new #8 AWG wire from the electronics tray through the opening where the 2 orange wires come through. Attach a #8 AWG ring connector to the wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Bolt the #6 wire from the negative contactor, the negative wire from the OEM battery and the negative #8 AWG (black) wire from the electronics tray together as shown using a lockwasher (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Then wrap tightly with electrical tape (preferably orange), so that the entire assembly is covered with several layers of tape.
# Place a rubber cap on the top and wrap the rubber assembly in tape and attach firmly to the rest of the wire.
# Next, crimp on a #8 AWG ring terminal to the #8 Red wire coming from the electronics tray.
# Remove the bolt on the positive contactor's terminal and add the #8 AWG wire as shown (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Replace the white insulators that came off the top of the contactors
# Route the wire in the same way as the black wire out area where the 2 orange wires run
# Make sure there is a little slack wire inside the OEM battery. Then, optionally wrap the 3/8" flex tubing around the 2 new wires to the electronics tray and wrap them in orange electrical tape (orange is keeping in standard for high voltage wiring in hybrids.)
# '''Before reconnecting anything, be absolutely sure that the other end of the high voltage wires are fully insulated (i.e., make sure the Anderson PP75 connectors are on and that there is electrical tape preventing them from accidentally contacting any metal.'''
# Tap a yellow #22 or larger wire onto the yellow low voltage wire going to one of the contactors and route to the electronics tray or box.
'''Todo''' Add a photo of the yellow READY wire.

<gallery>
Image:OEM_battery_exposed.jpg|The OEM battery with the support bracket removed
Image:Opening_OEM_battery.jpg|Removing the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_after_tie_in.jpg|After the OEM battery tie in is done
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_from_back_of_car.jpg|Shows the 2 white insulators on the contactors
</gallery>

==Tap into the 12v Accessory Battery==
Run 4 18 AWG wires (2 red, 2 black) from the electronics tray or box to the 12 volt accessory battery (located under the passenger side cubby hole. The 2 red wires should run into a 15 amp 32volt automotive fuse. The other side of the fuse should go to the 12v accessory battery. The black wire should either goto the black terminal on the battery or the chassis (but it must be a very clean connection to the chassis.) The other side of the wires goes to the control board through a .156" Molex KK connector.

==Reassemble the Prius Trunk==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written

==Connecting the PbA batteries==
'''Todo''' Much work needed yet

===Parts Needed===
* Qty 50 8 AWG crimp on ring terminals (probably wise to get a few extra!)
* 8 AWG wire (list total length used here.)
* Orange electrical tape
* 20x BB Battery EVP20-12B 12volt 20ah SLA AGM batteries (2 spares recommended.)

===Assembly Steps===
{{Disclaimer}}

'''Warning: Get an electrician or qualified person to do this, this is working with high voltages which can be lethal or start fires if not taken seriously.'''

Place trays in the foundation and the batteries in trays (look at photos on RawData page to see sequence.) Using crimp on ring terminals, make lengths of wire long enough to connect batteries and crimp the ring terminals on well. Make sure the crimps are very tight and make good contact. This is very important because they could otherwise heat up extremely hot and melt or start a fire. The batteries are arranged electrically into 4 60v sections. The front section and rear section are separated by one of the 60 amp 300v fuses (see HV schematics.) Each other section is separated by Anderson PP75 connectors for easy disconnect. Sections should be assembled individually to prevent voltages from being more than 60 volts until everything is ready to be connected and assembled. Leave the fuses disconnected until everything is finished. Then put on the battery box top and bolt it down.

==Optional Bumper Mounted Inlet==
This is an optional replacement for the mounted cord reel. There may be other inlets available, but a Marinco 150CCI works well and costs about $25-$30.

# Remove the plastic shield on the driver's side of the car if it hasn't been already (see above for instructions.)
# Using a circular drill bit with starting drill bit, drill a 1 7/8" hole in the bumper where you want the inlet to be mounted.
# Route the cable to the inlet before installing the inlet.
# Fasten the inlet to the bumper

==Optional Mounted Cord Reel (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written by someone who knows how to do this.

==The First Tests==
'''Todo''' This needs much more work

First, using a voltmeter check to make sure that voltages are present both from the OEM battery (should be 220v or so) and from the PHEV pack (should be around 260v.) Plug the car into a ground faulted (preferably also arc faulted) outlet and check to see if the car starts to charge the PHEV battery.

Power up the car very briefly and check to see if the control board turns on. With CAN-View in ORIG mode (not PHEV), make sure that HVRL1 and HVRL2 are both off. Some LEDs should be on on the LED board.

==Programming CAN-View/Control Board==

'''Todo''' Polish this description and format nicely like Ryan's PiPrius ones.

Set the dip switches on the control board:
DIPSW1: 1=OFF, 2=OFF, 3=ON, 4=ON, 5=ON [ HVRL1 = RL3 OR RL5 OR RL6 ] (RL2 will be reserved to force the OEM battery fan ON)
DIPSW1: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control the optional current-limiting power resistor)
DIPSW2: 1-5=OFF (later, 2=ON will force the OEM battery fan ON when RL2 is ON)
DIPSW2: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control a "Future use #1" output)

RL2 [settings don't yet matter]

For highway driving:
RL3 ON < 71 OFF > 73 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON 25 OFF < 30 Acl (Amps DCL)
ON > 45 OFF < 40 MPH
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
3 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

To stay in EV mode during acceleration:
RL5 ON < 200 OFF > 235V
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? YES

For low speeds, to promote EV mode driving:
RL6 ON < 61 OFF > 63 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

{{Disclaimer}}

User talk:Cewert

2007-07-14T04:44:26Z

Cewert: /* Final Push into Single Instruction page. */

== Duplicate Image ==
It appears that your ''[[:Image:Right side of electronics box.jpg]]'' & '''[[:Image:Left side of electronics box.jpg]]''' photos are the same? You should be able to visit the page of the one that's wrong and upload the correct version of it. --[[User:Rjf|Rjf]] 18:49, 26 April 2007 (CDT)

Thanks, I got that fixed.
Chris

== Final Push into Single Instruction page. ==

It appears that you are moving sections of the doc pages into a single page, which is fine, it looks pretty good... Although we'll loose all of the edit history of those who contributed to it, I suppose we can just credit them all somewhere. There is also a method for creating small pages, which can then be included in multiple other pages, I'm not sure if each main section should be turned into such a template or not, something to consider? The CAN-View install section is such a page which the PiPrius and PriusPlus projctes both reference, templates can do more advanced stuff. For example, if you visited the first sections template directly it might display a menu with links to the top of the project and the other pages, but if that same section (and all the others) were included in a single article, perhaps for printing, then those menus wouldn't show... Anyway, I mostly wanted to make sure that the original content got erased as you moved it into the single article, so we don't get confused with two versions of some text... ps. I'll be away for a few weeks, checking in slightly less often... --[[User:Rjf|Rjf]] 21:40, 13 July 2007 (CDT)

: Yes, I did combine everything into one main page, and like you said, we will want to get rid of the other pages so we don't have duplicate data, but I wanted to leave them for a little bit just until I am certain that I have everything pulled off of them. As far as crediting people, I think its just best to credit them and delete the old pages (although, other than the initial page creations by anonymous IP addresses, for the most part you and I are the only ones to edit them. I really like the idea of having as much on the the page (as opposed to templates) as possible to make for easy editing. We are hoping that DIY converters will help give back to the project and update/correct/expand some of the documentation as they do their own conversions, so the easier it is to edit, I think the better. I don't think we need to include stuff on separate pages, so that shouldn't be an issue (if it ever does become one, we can move things later.) I'm thinking that at some point in the near future we may want to break the step-by-step instructions into 2 pages (although, in the near future, apparently the 2 mounting methods we currently have are going away and will be replaced by a pre-fabricated box, so a good chunk of documentation will go away (saved in history somewhere of course), so maybe we won't need to.)
:I think I'm going to unlink the pages from the RawData page just to help reduce any possible confusion, and I'll just type in the URL manually - I just wanted to make sure you didn't delete them till I was ready to have them deleted! :)
:I will also be on vacation, from Jul 18 -> Aug 5th, so thats why I'm pushing really hard right now. --[[User:Cewert|Cewert]] 19:25, 13 July 2007

:: I think that if as you move content from the old pages to the new you remove the parts of the old pages then you will be left with only the parts that haven't been moved elsewhere. Best done with it fresh in mind. Keep in mind that nothing is ever truly lost, you can always go back to the articles histories, even deleted pages can be undeleted with all their history...

::: I thought about that after getting into it quite a ways. I didn't want to publish the Instructions page until it was done, so I wanted to keep the others active until then.

:: As far as braking the page into pieces, it's usuailly less daunting to see a small page of stuff and links to a dozen similarly sized pages which are steps in the process. It should be rare, and discouraged that someone wants to change things a large number of the sections of a very large page all in one edit, it's just more difficult to see the evolution of the content that way. Anyway, for now you are absolutly right, we'll leave it as a single article, perhaps I'll create a moch up sometime of what I'm talking about...

::: I agree that it is a bit overwhelming, but I also think its helpful to be able to go back and fourth from section to section (at least I've found it very helpful while doing the conversion). Maybe there is a balance somewhere. We can work on figuring something out when both of us are back from vacation.

:: I've updated the main menu, added your two new pages (Instructions, PartsList), but I kept the Mechanical, Electrical, and Electronic as sub-RawData. Will we cleanup and keep the RawData page with all of it's photos? Or is most of that included in the main document? That page was intended to have all of the file (image, schematics, etc) resources that were available for inclusion in the main page(s). --[[User:Rjf|Rjf]] 23:06, 13 July 2007 (CDT) ''ps. you can sign posts with <nowiki>--~~~~</nowiki> or the <html><img src="http://www.eaa-phev.org/skins/common/images/button_sig.png"></html> button.

::: I was planning on keeping the RawData page with all the photos - they are very helpful for converters I think. I want to delete some of the more random text from the page, do some other cleanup / formatting and put in all the things that someone would need to look at for reference (i.e. all the schematics, photos, perhaps things like CAN-View settings, etc.) Thanks for the hint about the signature - I was wondering how to do that! --[[User:Cewert|Cewert]] 23:44, 13 July 2007 (CDT)

Talk:PriusPlus-Theory

2007-07-14T03:32:59Z

Cewert: old can-view settings

waltonC ferris:12/28/06:
1) "[[SOC]]" wasn't defined; I'd guess it means state of charge but us newbies don't know.

2) in the CANview discussion of parameters to run the relays
I'm totally lost - the combination of a "> 77 OFF < 75" doesn't mean anything to me. What is OFF?

3) Is it really just an/off connection? We just connect together two low resistance battery packs which are at different voltages and let the amperes flow between them? And disconnect when the combination reaches a suitable low voltage?

4) Of course there will be a section about the CAN buss.
------------------

'''Todo''' We need to get photos of CAN-View's screens up here with pointers to the PHEV/ORIG options and on the PHEV page to show the relay status.

Old CAN-View settings / description from Ron (doesn't seem to be consistent)

The following are the parameters that Ron is currently using for the CAN-View relays: (RL2 and RL3 are NOR'd together; the result is OR'd with RL5 OR RL6; the EV-only parameter is not used):

* RL2: ON > 77 OFF < 75 %SOC -OR- ON < 55 OFF > 60 CCL for 0 seconds
* RL3: ON < 40 OFF > 45 mph -OR- ON < 5 OFF > 20 %throttle for 3 seconds
* RL5: ON < 200 OFF > 235V -OR- ON < 200 OFF > 235V for 0 seconds
* RL6: ON < 60 OFF >63 %SOC -OR- ON < 60 OFF > 63% SOC for 0 seconds

Note: The result of "RL2 NOR RL3" is the AND of the complement of all four RL2/RL3 conditions. Therefore, the above "(RL2 NOR RL3) OR RL5 OR RL6" control board logic, when simplified (ignoring the "X seconds" timing), becomes the following logic for activating HVRL1, which parallels the PHEV and OEM battery:

( < 77 OFF > 75 % SOC
     -AND- > 55 OFF < 60 CCL
     -AND- > 40 OFF < 45 mph
     -AND- > 5 OFF < 20 %throttle)
         -OR- < 200 OFF > 235V
         -OR- < 60 OFF > 63 %SOC

PriusPlus-Theory

2007-07-14T03:32:15Z

Cewert: /* The CAN-View */ removed invalid/old CAN-View settings (moved to discussion page)

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----
==Theory Overview==
'''Todo''' This needs to be polished, but its just a quick overview for someone looking to do a conversion of how the system functions.

The fundamental basis of this conversion is the reported state of charge (SOC) of the stock NiMH battery in the Prius and keeping that reported state of charge where we want it to encourage the hybrid synergy drive (HSD) to use as much electric power as possible (at the right times) to offset gasoline usage. During different driving profiles, it is better to use electricity at different times. However, putting that aside for now, generally, to allow all EV driving, the SOC needs to be kept in a certain range (typically around 60-63%). When the reported SOC drops below the lower threshold, the PHEV battery and the OEM battery need to be paralleled. It has been found that EV mode can cause the OEM battery voltage to drop below 200 volts while accelerating. The algorithm for determining when to parallel the OEM battery and the PHEV battery needs to parallel the batteries when the voltage drops below 200 volts to make sure the car doesn't cancel EV mode because the OEM battery voltage is too low. To get the Prius to use electricity in highway driving, the reported SOC needs to be brought up to over 70% (typically 72-73%, however, never exceeding 80%.) The charge current limit (CCL or ACL in CAN-View) must be monitored to make sure the OEM battery is not being overcharged or overheated. The Prius will then enter a "get rid of charge any way possible" and be encouraged to use more electricity (up to about 6kW.) When the batteries are paralleled, it causes a voltage rise (because the PHEV pack is a higher nominal voltage than the stock battery). When the voltage hits a certain point, it causes a state of charge drift, which, once started, very rapidly increases the reported SOC.

In the current revision of the system, CAN-View (a computer sitting on the CAN bus monitoring status) is responsible for controlling the contactors. See below for more information on specific relays on CAN-View. The output from the 6 CAN-View relays is fed into a logic statement (currently just relay 3 OR 5 OR 6) to determine when to parallel the two packs. Another relay (#4) is a special relay turned on when the system is enabled, and off when the system is disabled.

==The PHEV Battery Pack==

The PHEV pack consists of twenty 12 volt 20 amp hour sealed lead acid batteries connected in series. The batteries themselves sit in an aluminum box and are mounted above the spare tire well, but below the false floor in the trunk. The pack has a nominal voltage of 240 volts and has a total energy storage of about 4.8 kWh (not all usable.) In this design, the PHEV battery pack has a higher nominal voltage than the stock NiMH battery and is used to charge the stock NiMH battery. Contactors (large relays) are used to connect and disconnect the PHEV battery pack from the stock battery when charging is needed. The higher voltage pack cannot always be connected to the stock pack, because that would overcharge the batteries. NiMH battery packs also cannot easily be charged in parallel, so simply adding a second NiMH battery pack is not simple. The current from the battery pack is less than 60 amps, and therefore the pack is fused with 60 amp 300VDC (or higher) fuses. The batteries must be connected using 8 AWG wire or larger (smaller AWG number) to handle the amount of current.

The PHEV battery does not have its own battery management computer. As the PHEV battery’s state-of-charge (SOC) decreases, it is put in parallel with the OEM battery more and more continuously. Charge-sustaining operation at the PHEV battery’s minimum intended SOC occurs when the PHEV battery’s voltage matches the voltage of the OEM battery’s 60% SOC voltage well enough that average PHEV battery current becomes zero. This is a soft limit that depends upon driving conditions, temperatures, PHEV battery condition, and the state of the moon; and PHEV operation slowly morphs into hybrid operation rather than changing abruptly. Ordinarily, around 10-13 Amp-hr is removed from the PHEV battery before electric assist is exhausted. The depth-of-discharge (DOD = 100% - SOC) that this corresponds to is anyone’s guess, as due to Peukert’s Law (PbA batteries have lower capacity at high discharge rates) and high, variable discharge rates, the battery pack’s capacity is diminished by a large, unknown amount.

===Current PbA limitations===
*The conversion adds 300+ lbs to the vehicle’s weight to provide 10 miles of electric range per charge (16.7 usable Wh/kg)
**Though Ron has safely driven 17,000 miles in his converted Prius, the added weight could possibly cause vehicle instability during driving, and the battery may modify the effectiveness of the vehicle’s rear crush zone.
**Existing conversions sit 1-2 inches low in the rear. Air shocks or heaver-duty rear springs would be nice, but have not yet been developed.
**Though there are indications that improved hybrid efficiency due to a lower combined internal resistance of the two-battery combination at least partially compensates for the added weight, city gasoline mileage is otherwise reduced by up to 10%.
*Operating costs are high due to an expected cycle life of only 300-400 deep cycles, providing only one to two years of daily driving (at 400 cycles, 10 electric miles per 2.1 kWh cycle, and $800/pack, battery cost is $0.95/kWh throughput or $0.20/electric-mile (in addition to the cost of electricity, usually 2-4 cents/mile depending on utility rates).
*For decent battery life, the battery must always be charged within a day of discharge, making charging a required rather than optional operation (if planning to drive to somewhere without access to electricity, temporarily turn off PHEV operation).
*PbA batteries perform very poorly in cold weather. Though our design includes a thermally insulated battery pack, heated during charging, this feature has been insufficiently tested due to moderate California temperatures during development.

===Possible Future Battery Options===
More advanced batteries may be retrofittable to the conversion. This will probably require upgrading to CalCars’ not-yet-designed next version of logic board, and will also probably require additional battery management electronics. Any new battery’s enclosure, mounting, and thermal management system will no doubt also be very different.

Possible future batteries and their likely characteristics (incl. low-volume pricing):

Example pack
{| border=1 cellpadding=2 |
| Chemistry || || Usable Wh/kg || Cycle life || Yr daily driving || $/usable kWh || $/kWh thruput || Cents/ EV-mi || kWh || $ || EV mi || Wt, lb
|-
| PbA (current) || || 16 || 400 || 1.1 || $380 || $0.95 || 20.0 || 2.1 || $ 798 || 10 || 289
|-
| NiMH || worst || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $1,200 || $0.60 || 12.6 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiMH || best || 36 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 4.2 || $3,360 || 20 || 257
|-
| Li-ion || worst || 56 || 1000 || 2.7 || $1,200 || $1.20 || 25.2 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 165
|-
| Li-ion || best || 100 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 6.3 || $5,040 || 30 || 139
|-
| NiZn || worst || 36 || 500 || 1.4 || $500 || $1.00 || 21.0 || 4.2 || $2,100 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiZn || best || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $350 || $0.18 || 3.7 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || worst || 36 || 1000 || 2.7 || $350 || $0.35 || 7.4 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || best || 45 || 4000 || 11.0 || $250 || $0.06 || 1.3 || 5.25 || $1,313 || 25 || 257
|}

Note that figures are for usable, not total, capacity in kWh (usually 80%, but much less for the current PbA pack (4.8 kWh total capacity), due to Peukert’s Law).

==The Charger==

The charger runs on standard 120v (or 240v) AC power and is used to recharge the PHEV pack. Three options are planned:
*a Delta-q charger (http://www.delta-q.com) designed for the PbA battery pack, at a projected price of $800. We are in discussions with the company and will soon know if/when pre-production units will be available; UL-approved units are likely to be available in 2007.
*the Brusa NLG503 charger, available through http://www.metricmind.com/index1.htm for $2650 retail including cables (a group rate is possible). Users can reprogram this charger for other voltages and battery chemistries, so it would be a good purchase for developers anticipating an eventual high-tech replacement battery.
*(eventually) the Manzanita Micro PFC-40 charger, available through http://manzanitamicro.com for around $2000. This charger has programmable but less sophisticated charging algorithms, but can also double as a high-power DC:DC converter between the battery packs. Its output is ''not'' line isolated. Its incorporation will require modifications/enhancements of this conversion, and control circuitry and algorithms that have not yet been developed.

Useful information on charging lead-acid batteries can be found at [http://batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm http://batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm]

==The CAN-View==

The [[CAN-View]] is a computer which monitors the [[CAN]] bus (the bus which the different microprocessors in the Prius use to communicate with each other) and both displays information to the driver on a display as well as control the extra plug-in systems. The Can-View computer can be programmed to turn on and off a series of relays which are used to control the PHEV operations. There are currently 2 versions of CAN-View available. Version 3 requires an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or [[MFD]]) while Version 4 works with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) CAN-View is simple to install and installation typically requires between a half hour to one and a half hours. For more information, see [[CAN-View]].

Version 3 of [[CAN-View]] must be ordered with the PHEV relay board option to be used in this conversion. Version 4 comes standard with the PHEV relays. [[CAN-View]] has 6 relays. Relays RL1 and RL4 are special relays which are try-EV mode and PHEV/orig. RL4 is triggered by pressing "orig/PHEV" on the CAN-View screen.

RL2, RL3, RL5 and RL6 are programmable.

==EV Mode Button/Wire==
The Prius can be put into "EV" mode which essentially turns the car into an electric car for speeds under 34mph. While Prius's come standard with a button in the dash in some countries, the button is not on the North American model, however the software is still present. EV mode can be entered by momentarily grounding pin 27 on plug H16 on the HV ECU. If the car exceeds 34mph or a host of other conditions are not met (such as the current charge limit, OEM battery temperature, low SOC, throttle, etc), the Prius will automatically exit EV mode and resume ICE use. For more detailed information on EV mode, see [[Prius EV Mode Button]].

==Control Circuit Board==

A circuit board is needed which contains the logic to control the added heaters, fans, contactors, etc. The board is roughly 5" by 6" and is mounted in the electronics tray, between the PHEV battery and the stock battery.

Sub parts of this board are;
* Power management - takes input from CAN-View and controls the contactors connecting the PHEV battery with the stock battery.
* Battery Heating & Cooling - senses and controls the fans and heaters to keep battery temperatures within defined ranges.
* System diagnostics - A simple LED board interface to monitor the technical operation of the system for debugging.
* Charge interlock - stops the car from being driven away while plugged into a live outlet.

===PHEV Battery Heating & Cooling===

Lead acid batteries do not function as well when they are either hot or cold. The pack is heated and cooled as necessary by three standard 12" x 15" heating pads and three fans. The circuit board is responsible for controlling the heaters and fans. Depending on the layout, vents are provided either throught he bottom of the tire well or through the stock vent behind the storage bin on the rear drivers side of the car.

===OEM Battery Fan Controls===
The OEM controller connects the light green wire to the OEM fan to +14V when the OEM battery temperature reaches around 89-96 deg F. This control leaves that connection in place but taps it and runs it to J8F pin 1. Once the fan is so energized, proportional control is affected by varying the current to the violet line to the negative terminal of the OEM fan. The voltage of this line is monitored, and a DTC (system error) is asserted if the fan has become an open circuit. Control is effected by removing the violet line from the OEM fan and running it instead to J8F pin 3. J8F pin 5 is then run to the OEM fan. A diode (actually 3 in-line 3A diodes in parallel to handle 5A) between pin 3 and pin 5 allows the OEM control to operate the fan normally when the control board is unplugged (J8F plugs into J8M on the control board).

The control board has a 2.2K resistor between pins 1 and 3 of J8, a controlled pullup from pin 1 to +14V, and a controlled pulldown from pin 5 to chassis ground. When not in PHEV mode, the control board does nothing. When in PHEV mode, pin 5 is always pulled down to ground. This causes the fan to run at full bore whenever there is power on pin 1 (normally when the OEM battery temperature is above 89-96 deg F). At the cost of some passenger compartment noise, this keeps the OEM battery temperature below 100 deg F instead of around 114 deg F, thereby keeping it cool enough for EV mode, which will not work when the OEM battery's temperature is above 104 deg F, to continue to be enabled. It would no doubt be possible to proportionately control the fan to this lower temperature, too, but this system is not yet that sophisticated.

The pullup on J8 pin 1 is to allow the PHEV system to force the OEM fan ON when desired and the OEM battery temperature is below 89-96 deg F. A recommended use of this feature is to force the fan ON when the OEM battery temperature is so low that discharge current limit (DCL) is below 100A, thereby (sometimes severely) limiting EV mode current. If the driver, as would be expected, is using the cabin heater, the fan can speed up the heating of the OEM battery by blowing cabin air over it, thereby enabling EV mode sooner than without forcing the fan ON.

==Electronics Tray==

===HVD1===
The purpose of the diode is to allow energy from the regen braking into the PHEV battery pack. This functionality is off when CAN-View's ORIG/PHEV relay is set for ORIG (which turns off HVRL2.) The heatsink can dissipate >200 watts for short braking or around 100 watts for several minutes during downhill braking, and must be well connected to the heatsink and in the path of a fan when is on whenever the car is in ready mode. The diode will only heat when braking or when the battery is being charged by the ICE. The diode requires a DO-5 mounting kit to insulate the diode from the heatsink electrically, but still allow thermal conductivity.

===Contactors===
HVRL1 is responsible for paralleling the PHEV battery pack and the OEM Prius battery. HVRL2 is responsible for enabling / disabling the system. HVRL3 is used for the optional power resistor. HVRL1 and HVRL2 both have snubbers across the terminals to reduce arcing and extend the life of the contactors.

==References==
<references/>

PriusPlus-Theory

2007-07-14T03:30:32Z

Cewert: more cleanup

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----
==Theory Overview==
'''Todo''' This needs to be polished, but its just a quick overview for someone looking to do a conversion of how the system functions.

The fundamental basis of this conversion is the reported state of charge (SOC) of the stock NiMH battery in the Prius and keeping that reported state of charge where we want it to encourage the hybrid synergy drive (HSD) to use as much electric power as possible (at the right times) to offset gasoline usage. During different driving profiles, it is better to use electricity at different times. However, putting that aside for now, generally, to allow all EV driving, the SOC needs to be kept in a certain range (typically around 60-63%). When the reported SOC drops below the lower threshold, the PHEV battery and the OEM battery need to be paralleled. It has been found that EV mode can cause the OEM battery voltage to drop below 200 volts while accelerating. The algorithm for determining when to parallel the OEM battery and the PHEV battery needs to parallel the batteries when the voltage drops below 200 volts to make sure the car doesn't cancel EV mode because the OEM battery voltage is too low. To get the Prius to use electricity in highway driving, the reported SOC needs to be brought up to over 70% (typically 72-73%, however, never exceeding 80%.) The charge current limit (CCL or ACL in CAN-View) must be monitored to make sure the OEM battery is not being overcharged or overheated. The Prius will then enter a "get rid of charge any way possible" and be encouraged to use more electricity (up to about 6kW.) When the batteries are paralleled, it causes a voltage rise (because the PHEV pack is a higher nominal voltage than the stock battery). When the voltage hits a certain point, it causes a state of charge drift, which, once started, very rapidly increases the reported SOC.

In the current revision of the system, CAN-View (a computer sitting on the CAN bus monitoring status) is responsible for controlling the contactors. See below for more information on specific relays on CAN-View. The output from the 6 CAN-View relays is fed into a logic statement (currently just relay 3 OR 5 OR 6) to determine when to parallel the two packs. Another relay (#4) is a special relay turned on when the system is enabled, and off when the system is disabled.

==The PHEV Battery Pack==

The PHEV pack consists of twenty 12 volt 20 amp hour sealed lead acid batteries connected in series. The batteries themselves sit in an aluminum box and are mounted above the spare tire well, but below the false floor in the trunk. The pack has a nominal voltage of 240 volts and has a total energy storage of about 4.8 kWh (not all usable.) In this design, the PHEV battery pack has a higher nominal voltage than the stock NiMH battery and is used to charge the stock NiMH battery. Contactors (large relays) are used to connect and disconnect the PHEV battery pack from the stock battery when charging is needed. The higher voltage pack cannot always be connected to the stock pack, because that would overcharge the batteries. NiMH battery packs also cannot easily be charged in parallel, so simply adding a second NiMH battery pack is not simple. The current from the battery pack is less than 60 amps, and therefore the pack is fused with 60 amp 300VDC (or higher) fuses. The batteries must be connected using 8 AWG wire or larger (smaller AWG number) to handle the amount of current.

The PHEV battery does not have its own battery management computer. As the PHEV battery’s state-of-charge (SOC) decreases, it is put in parallel with the OEM battery more and more continuously. Charge-sustaining operation at the PHEV battery’s minimum intended SOC occurs when the PHEV battery’s voltage matches the voltage of the OEM battery’s 60% SOC voltage well enough that average PHEV battery current becomes zero. This is a soft limit that depends upon driving conditions, temperatures, PHEV battery condition, and the state of the moon; and PHEV operation slowly morphs into hybrid operation rather than changing abruptly. Ordinarily, around 10-13 Amp-hr is removed from the PHEV battery before electric assist is exhausted. The depth-of-discharge (DOD = 100% - SOC) that this corresponds to is anyone’s guess, as due to Peukert’s Law (PbA batteries have lower capacity at high discharge rates) and high, variable discharge rates, the battery pack’s capacity is diminished by a large, unknown amount.

===Current PbA limitations===
*The conversion adds 300+ lbs to the vehicle’s weight to provide 10 miles of electric range per charge (16.7 usable Wh/kg)
**Though Ron has safely driven 17,000 miles in his converted Prius, the added weight could possibly cause vehicle instability during driving, and the battery may modify the effectiveness of the vehicle’s rear crush zone.
**Existing conversions sit 1-2 inches low in the rear. Air shocks or heaver-duty rear springs would be nice, but have not yet been developed.
**Though there are indications that improved hybrid efficiency due to a lower combined internal resistance of the two-battery combination at least partially compensates for the added weight, city gasoline mileage is otherwise reduced by up to 10%.
*Operating costs are high due to an expected cycle life of only 300-400 deep cycles, providing only one to two years of daily driving (at 400 cycles, 10 electric miles per 2.1 kWh cycle, and $800/pack, battery cost is $0.95/kWh throughput or $0.20/electric-mile (in addition to the cost of electricity, usually 2-4 cents/mile depending on utility rates).
*For decent battery life, the battery must always be charged within a day of discharge, making charging a required rather than optional operation (if planning to drive to somewhere without access to electricity, temporarily turn off PHEV operation).
*PbA batteries perform very poorly in cold weather. Though our design includes a thermally insulated battery pack, heated during charging, this feature has been insufficiently tested due to moderate California temperatures during development.

===Possible Future Battery Options===
More advanced batteries may be retrofittable to the conversion. This will probably require upgrading to CalCars’ not-yet-designed next version of logic board, and will also probably require additional battery management electronics. Any new battery’s enclosure, mounting, and thermal management system will no doubt also be very different.

Possible future batteries and their likely characteristics (incl. low-volume pricing):

Example pack
{| border=1 cellpadding=2 |
| Chemistry || || Usable Wh/kg || Cycle life || Yr daily driving || $/usable kWh || $/kWh thruput || Cents/ EV-mi || kWh || $ || EV mi || Wt, lb
|-
| PbA (current) || || 16 || 400 || 1.1 || $380 || $0.95 || 20.0 || 2.1 || $ 798 || 10 || 289
|-
| NiMH || worst || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $1,200 || $0.60 || 12.6 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiMH || best || 36 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 4.2 || $3,360 || 20 || 257
|-
| Li-ion || worst || 56 || 1000 || 2.7 || $1,200 || $1.20 || 25.2 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 165
|-
| Li-ion || best || 100 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 6.3 || $5,040 || 30 || 139
|-
| NiZn || worst || 36 || 500 || 1.4 || $500 || $1.00 || 21.0 || 4.2 || $2,100 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiZn || best || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $350 || $0.18 || 3.7 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || worst || 36 || 1000 || 2.7 || $350 || $0.35 || 7.4 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || best || 45 || 4000 || 11.0 || $250 || $0.06 || 1.3 || 5.25 || $1,313 || 25 || 257
|}

Note that figures are for usable, not total, capacity in kWh (usually 80%, but much less for the current PbA pack (4.8 kWh total capacity), due to Peukert’s Law).

==The Charger==

The charger runs on standard 120v (or 240v) AC power and is used to recharge the PHEV pack. Three options are planned:
*a Delta-q charger (http://www.delta-q.com) designed for the PbA battery pack, at a projected price of $800. We are in discussions with the company and will soon know if/when pre-production units will be available; UL-approved units are likely to be available in 2007.
*the Brusa NLG503 charger, available through http://www.metricmind.com/index1.htm for $2650 retail including cables (a group rate is possible). Users can reprogram this charger for other voltages and battery chemistries, so it would be a good purchase for developers anticipating an eventual high-tech replacement battery.
*(eventually) the Manzanita Micro PFC-40 charger, available through http://manzanitamicro.com for around $2000. This charger has programmable but less sophisticated charging algorithms, but can also double as a high-power DC:DC converter between the battery packs. Its output is ''not'' line isolated. Its incorporation will require modifications/enhancements of this conversion, and control circuitry and algorithms that have not yet been developed.

Useful information on charging lead-acid batteries can be found at [http://batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm http://batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm]

==The CAN-View==

The [[CAN-View]] is a computer which monitors the [[CAN]] bus (the bus which the different microprocessors in the Prius use to communicate with each other) and both displays information to the driver on a display as well as control the extra plug-in systems. The Can-View computer can be programmed to turn on and off a series of relays which are used to control the PHEV operations. There are currently 2 versions of CAN-View available. Version 3 requires an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or [[MFD]]) while Version 4 works with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) CAN-View is simple to install and installation typically requires between a half hour to one and a half hours. For more information, see [[CAN-View]].

Version 3 of [[CAN-View]] must be ordered with the PHEV relay board option to be used in this conversion. Version 4 comes standard with the PHEV relays. [[CAN-View]] has 6 relays. Relays RL1 and RL4 are special relays which are try-EV mode and PHEV/orig. RL4 is triggered by pressing "orig/PHEV" on the CAN-View screen.

RL2, RL3, RL5 and RL6 are programmable. The following are the parameters that Ron is currently using for the CAN-View relays: (RL2 and RL3 are NOR'd together; the result is OR'd with RL5 OR RL6; the EV-only parameter is not used):

* RL2: ON > 77 OFF < 75 %SOC -OR- ON < 55 OFF > 60 CCL for 0 seconds
* RL3: ON < 40 OFF > 45 mph -OR- ON < 5 OFF > 20 %throttle for 3 seconds
* RL5: ON < 200 OFF > 235V -OR- ON < 200 OFF > 235V for 0 seconds
* RL6: ON < 60 OFF >63 %SOC -OR- ON < 60 OFF > 63% SOC for 0 seconds

Note: The result of "RL2 NOR RL3" is the AND of the complement of all four RL2/RL3 conditions. Therefore, the above "(RL2 NOR RL3) OR RL5 OR RL6" control board logic, when simplified (ignoring the "X seconds" timing), becomes the following logic for activating HVRL1, which parallels the PHEV and OEM battery:

( < 77 OFF > 75 % SOC
     -AND- > 55 OFF < 60 CCL
     -AND- > 40 OFF < 45 mph
     -AND- > 5 OFF < 20 %throttle)
         -OR- < 200 OFF > 235V
         -OR- < 60 OFF > 63 %SOC

==EV Mode Button/Wire==
The Prius can be put into "EV" mode which essentially turns the car into an electric car for speeds under 34mph. While Prius's come standard with a button in the dash in some countries, the button is not on the North American model, however the software is still present. EV mode can be entered by momentarily grounding pin 27 on plug H16 on the HV ECU. If the car exceeds 34mph or a host of other conditions are not met (such as the current charge limit, OEM battery temperature, low SOC, throttle, etc), the Prius will automatically exit EV mode and resume ICE use. For more detailed information on EV mode, see [[Prius EV Mode Button]].

==Control Circuit Board==

A circuit board is needed which contains the logic to control the added heaters, fans, contactors, etc. The board is roughly 5" by 6" and is mounted in the electronics tray, between the PHEV battery and the stock battery.

Sub parts of this board are;
* Power management - takes input from CAN-View and controls the contactors connecting the PHEV battery with the stock battery.
* Battery Heating & Cooling - senses and controls the fans and heaters to keep battery temperatures within defined ranges.
* System diagnostics - A simple LED board interface to monitor the technical operation of the system for debugging.
* Charge interlock - stops the car from being driven away while plugged into a live outlet.

===PHEV Battery Heating & Cooling===

Lead acid batteries do not function as well when they are either hot or cold. The pack is heated and cooled as necessary by three standard 12" x 15" heating pads and three fans. The circuit board is responsible for controlling the heaters and fans. Depending on the layout, vents are provided either throught he bottom of the tire well or through the stock vent behind the storage bin on the rear drivers side of the car.

===OEM Battery Fan Controls===
The OEM controller connects the light green wire to the OEM fan to +14V when the OEM battery temperature reaches around 89-96 deg F. This control leaves that connection in place but taps it and runs it to J8F pin 1. Once the fan is so energized, proportional control is affected by varying the current to the violet line to the negative terminal of the OEM fan. The voltage of this line is monitored, and a DTC (system error) is asserted if the fan has become an open circuit. Control is effected by removing the violet line from the OEM fan and running it instead to J8F pin 3. J8F pin 5 is then run to the OEM fan. A diode (actually 3 in-line 3A diodes in parallel to handle 5A) between pin 3 and pin 5 allows the OEM control to operate the fan normally when the control board is unplugged (J8F plugs into J8M on the control board).

The control board has a 2.2K resistor between pins 1 and 3 of J8, a controlled pullup from pin 1 to +14V, and a controlled pulldown from pin 5 to chassis ground. When not in PHEV mode, the control board does nothing. When in PHEV mode, pin 5 is always pulled down to ground. This causes the fan to run at full bore whenever there is power on pin 1 (normally when the OEM battery temperature is above 89-96 deg F). At the cost of some passenger compartment noise, this keeps the OEM battery temperature below 100 deg F instead of around 114 deg F, thereby keeping it cool enough for EV mode, which will not work when the OEM battery's temperature is above 104 deg F, to continue to be enabled. It would no doubt be possible to proportionately control the fan to this lower temperature, too, but this system is not yet that sophisticated.

The pullup on J8 pin 1 is to allow the PHEV system to force the OEM fan ON when desired and the OEM battery temperature is below 89-96 deg F. A recommended use of this feature is to force the fan ON when the OEM battery temperature is so low that discharge current limit (DCL) is below 100A, thereby (sometimes severely) limiting EV mode current. If the driver, as would be expected, is using the cabin heater, the fan can speed up the heating of the OEM battery by blowing cabin air over it, thereby enabling EV mode sooner than without forcing the fan ON.

==Electronics Tray==

===HVD1===
The purpose of the diode is to allow energy from the regen braking into the PHEV battery pack. This functionality is off when CAN-View's ORIG/PHEV relay is set for ORIG (which turns off HVRL2.) The heatsink can dissipate >200 watts for short braking or around 100 watts for several minutes during downhill braking, and must be well connected to the heatsink and in the path of a fan when is on whenever the car is in ready mode. The diode will only heat when braking or when the battery is being charged by the ICE. The diode requires a DO-5 mounting kit to insulate the diode from the heatsink electrically, but still allow thermal conductivity.

===Contactors===
HVRL1 is responsible for paralleling the PHEV battery pack and the OEM Prius battery. HVRL2 is responsible for enabling / disabling the system. HVRL3 is used for the optional power resistor. HVRL1 and HVRL2 both have snubbers across the terminals to reduce arcing and extend the life of the contactors.

==References==
<references/>

PriusPlus-Theory

2007-07-14T03:29:58Z

Cewert: cleanup

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
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The main components are:
# The PHEV battery pack
# The Charger
# The CAN-View
# Control board

==Overview==
'''Todo''' This needs to be polished, but its just a quick overview for someone looking to do a conversion of how the system functions.

The fundamental basis of this conversion is the reported state of charge (SOC) of the stock NiMH battery in the Prius and keeping that reported state of charge where we want it to encourage the hybrid synergy drive (HSD) to use as much electric power as possible (at the right times) to offset gasoline usage. During different driving profiles, it is better to use electricity at different times. However, putting that aside for now, generally, to allow all EV driving, the SOC needs to be kept in a certain range (typically around 60-63%). When the reported SOC drops below the lower threshold, the PHEV battery and the OEM battery need to be paralleled. It has been found that EV mode can cause the OEM battery voltage to drop below 200 volts while accelerating. The algorithm for determining when to parallel the OEM battery and the PHEV battery needs to parallel the batteries when the voltage drops below 200 volts to make sure the car doesn't cancel EV mode because the OEM battery voltage is too low. To get the Prius to use electricity in highway driving, the reported SOC needs to be brought up to over 70% (typically 72-73%, however, never exceeding 80%.) The charge current limit (CCL or ACL in CAN-View) must be monitored to make sure the OEM battery is not being overcharged or overheated. The Prius will then enter a "get rid of charge any way possible" and be encouraged to use more electricity (up to about 6kW.) When the batteries are paralleled, it causes a voltage rise (because the PHEV pack is a higher nominal voltage than the stock battery). When the voltage hits a certain point, it causes a state of charge drift, which, once started, very rapidly increases the reported SOC.

In the current revision of the system, CAN-View (a computer sitting on the CAN bus monitoring status) is responsible for controlling the contactors. See below for more information on specific relays on CAN-View. The output from the 6 CAN-View relays is fed into a logic statement (currently just relay 3 OR 5 OR 6) to determine when to parallel the two packs. Another relay (#4) is a special relay turned on when the system is enabled, and off when the system is disabled.

==The PHEV Battery Pack==

The PHEV pack consists of twenty 12 volt 20 amp hour sealed lead acid batteries connected in series. The batteries themselves sit in an aluminum box and are mounted above the spare tire well, but below the false floor in the trunk. The pack has a nominal voltage of 240 volts and has a total energy storage of about 4.8 kWh (not all usable.) In this design, the PHEV battery pack has a higher nominal voltage than the stock NiMH battery and is used to charge the stock NiMH battery. Contactors (large relays) are used to connect and disconnect the PHEV battery pack from the stock battery when charging is needed. The higher voltage pack cannot always be connected to the stock pack, because that would overcharge the batteries. NiMH battery packs also cannot easily be charged in parallel, so simply adding a second NiMH battery pack is not simple. The current from the battery pack is less than 60 amps, and therefore the pack is fused with 60 amp 300VDC (or higher) fuses. The batteries must be connected using 8 AWG wire or larger (smaller AWG number) to handle the amount of current.

The PHEV battery does not have its own battery management computer. As the PHEV battery’s state-of-charge (SOC) decreases, it is put in parallel with the OEM battery more and more continuously. Charge-sustaining operation at the PHEV battery’s minimum intended SOC occurs when the PHEV battery’s voltage matches the voltage of the OEM battery’s 60% SOC voltage well enough that average PHEV battery current becomes zero. This is a soft limit that depends upon driving conditions, temperatures, PHEV battery condition, and the state of the moon; and PHEV operation slowly morphs into hybrid operation rather than changing abruptly. Ordinarily, around 10-13 Amp-hr is removed from the PHEV battery before electric assist is exhausted. The depth-of-discharge (DOD = 100% - SOC) that this corresponds to is anyone’s guess, as due to Peukert’s Law (PbA batteries have lower capacity at high discharge rates) and high, variable discharge rates, the battery pack’s capacity is diminished by a large, unknown amount.

===Current PbA limitations===
*The conversion adds 300+ lbs to the vehicle’s weight to provide 10 miles of electric range per charge (16.7 usable Wh/kg)
**Though Ron has safely driven 17,000 miles in his converted Prius, the added weight could possibly cause vehicle instability during driving, and the battery may modify the effectiveness of the vehicle’s rear crush zone.
**Existing conversions sit 1-2 inches low in the rear. Air shocks or heaver-duty rear springs would be nice, but have not yet been developed.
**Though there are indications that improved hybrid efficiency due to a lower combined internal resistance of the two-battery combination at least partially compensates for the added weight, city gasoline mileage is otherwise reduced by up to 10%.
*Operating costs are high due to an expected cycle life of only 300-400 deep cycles, providing only one to two years of daily driving (at 400 cycles, 10 electric miles per 2.1 kWh cycle, and $800/pack, battery cost is $0.95/kWh throughput or $0.20/electric-mile (in addition to the cost of electricity, usually 2-4 cents/mile depending on utility rates).
*For decent battery life, the battery must always be charged within a day of discharge, making charging a required rather than optional operation (if planning to drive to somewhere without access to electricity, temporarily turn off PHEV operation).
*PbA batteries perform very poorly in cold weather. Though our design includes a thermally insulated battery pack, heated during charging, this feature has been insufficiently tested due to moderate California temperatures during development.

===Possible Future Battery Options===
More advanced batteries may be retrofittable to the conversion. This will probably require upgrading to CalCars’ not-yet-designed next version of logic board, and will also probably require additional battery management electronics. Any new battery’s enclosure, mounting, and thermal management system will no doubt also be very different.

Possible future batteries and their likely characteristics (incl. low-volume pricing):

Example pack
{| border=1 cellpadding=2 |
| Chemistry || || Usable Wh/kg || Cycle life || Yr daily driving || $/usable kWh || $/kWh thruput || Cents/ EV-mi || kWh || $ || EV mi || Wt, lb
|-
| PbA (current) || || 16 || 400 || 1.1 || $380 || $0.95 || 20.0 || 2.1 || $ 798 || 10 || 289
|-
| NiMH || worst || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $1,200 || $0.60 || 12.6 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiMH || best || 36 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 4.2 || $3,360 || 20 || 257
|-
| Li-ion || worst || 56 || 1000 || 2.7 || $1,200 || $1.20 || 25.2 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 165
|-
| Li-ion || best || 100 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 6.3 || $5,040 || 30 || 139
|-
| NiZn || worst || 36 || 500 || 1.4 || $500 || $1.00 || 21.0 || 4.2 || $2,100 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiZn || best || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $350 || $0.18 || 3.7 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || worst || 36 || 1000 || 2.7 || $350 || $0.35 || 7.4 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || best || 45 || 4000 || 11.0 || $250 || $0.06 || 1.3 || 5.25 || $1,313 || 25 || 257
|}

Note that figures are for usable, not total, capacity in kWh (usually 80%, but much less for the current PbA pack (4.8 kWh total capacity), due to Peukert’s Law).

==The Charger==

The charger runs on standard 120v (or 240v) AC power and is used to recharge the PHEV pack. Three options are planned:
*a Delta-q charger (http://www.delta-q.com) designed for the PbA battery pack, at a projected price of $800. We are in discussions with the company and will soon know if/when pre-production units will be available; UL-approved units are likely to be available in 2007.
*the Brusa NLG503 charger, available through http://www.metricmind.com/index1.htm for $2650 retail including cables (a group rate is possible). Users can reprogram this charger for other voltages and battery chemistries, so it would be a good purchase for developers anticipating an eventual high-tech replacement battery.
*(eventually) the Manzanita Micro PFC-40 charger, available through http://manzanitamicro.com for around $2000. This charger has programmable but less sophisticated charging algorithms, but can also double as a high-power DC:DC converter between the battery packs. Its output is ''not'' line isolated. Its incorporation will require modifications/enhancements of this conversion, and control circuitry and algorithms that have not yet been developed.

Useful information on charging lead-acid batteries can be found at [http://batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm http://batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm]

==The CAN-View==

The [[CAN-View]] is a computer which monitors the [[CAN]] bus (the bus which the different microprocessors in the Prius use to communicate with each other) and both displays information to the driver on a display as well as control the extra plug-in systems. The Can-View computer can be programmed to turn on and off a series of relays which are used to control the PHEV operations. There are currently 2 versions of CAN-View available. Version 3 requires an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or [[MFD]]) while Version 4 works with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) CAN-View is simple to install and installation typically requires between a half hour to one and a half hours. For more information, see [[CAN-View]].

Version 3 of [[CAN-View]] must be ordered with the PHEV relay board option to be used in this conversion. Version 4 comes standard with the PHEV relays. [[CAN-View]] has 6 relays. Relays RL1 and RL4 are special relays which are try-EV mode and PHEV/orig. RL4 is triggered by pressing "orig/PHEV" on the CAN-View screen.

RL2, RL3, RL5 and RL6 are programmable. The following are the parameters that Ron is currently using for the CAN-View relays: (RL2 and RL3 are NOR'd together; the result is OR'd with RL5 OR RL6; the EV-only parameter is not used):

* RL2: ON > 77 OFF < 75 %SOC -OR- ON < 55 OFF > 60 CCL for 0 seconds
* RL3: ON < 40 OFF > 45 mph -OR- ON < 5 OFF > 20 %throttle for 3 seconds
* RL5: ON < 200 OFF > 235V -OR- ON < 200 OFF > 235V for 0 seconds
* RL6: ON < 60 OFF >63 %SOC -OR- ON < 60 OFF > 63% SOC for 0 seconds

Note: The result of "RL2 NOR RL3" is the AND of the complement of all four RL2/RL3 conditions. Therefore, the above "(RL2 NOR RL3) OR RL5 OR RL6" control board logic, when simplified (ignoring the "X seconds" timing), becomes the following logic for activating HVRL1, which parallels the PHEV and OEM battery:

( < 77 OFF > 75 % SOC
     -AND- > 55 OFF < 60 CCL
     -AND- > 40 OFF < 45 mph
     -AND- > 5 OFF < 20 %throttle)
         -OR- < 200 OFF > 235V
         -OR- < 60 OFF > 63 %SOC

==EV Mode Button/Wire==
The Prius can be put into "EV" mode which essentially turns the car into an electric car for speeds under 34mph. While Prius's come standard with a button in the dash in some countries, the button is not on the North American model, however the software is still present. EV mode can be entered by momentarily grounding pin 27 on plug H16 on the HV ECU. If the car exceeds 34mph or a host of other conditions are not met (such as the current charge limit, OEM battery temperature, low SOC, throttle, etc), the Prius will automatically exit EV mode and resume ICE use. For more detailed information on EV mode, see [[Prius EV Mode Button]].

==Control Circuit Board==

A circuit board is needed which contains the logic to control the added heaters, fans, contactors, etc. The board is roughly 5" by 6" and is mounted in the electronics tray, between the PHEV battery and the stock battery.

Sub parts of this board are;
* Power management - takes input from CAN-View and controls the contactors connecting the PHEV battery with the stock battery.
* Battery Heating & Cooling - senses and controls the fans and heaters to keep battery temperatures within defined ranges.
* System diagnostics - A simple LED board interface to monitor the technical operation of the system for debugging.
* Charge interlock - stops the car from being driven away while plugged into a live outlet.

===PHEV Battery Heating & Cooling===

Lead acid batteries do not function as well when they are either hot or cold. The pack is heated and cooled as necessary by three standard 12" x 15" heating pads and three fans. The circuit board is responsible for controlling the heaters and fans. Depending on the layout, vents are provided either throught he bottom of the tire well or through the stock vent behind the storage bin on the rear drivers side of the car.

===OEM Battery Fan Controls===
The OEM controller connects the light green wire to the OEM fan to +14V when the OEM battery temperature reaches around 89-96 deg F. This control leaves that connection in place but taps it and runs it to J8F pin 1. Once the fan is so energized, proportional control is affected by varying the current to the violet line to the negative terminal of the OEM fan. The voltage of this line is monitored, and a DTC (system error) is asserted if the fan has become an open circuit. Control is effected by removing the violet line from the OEM fan and running it instead to J8F pin 3. J8F pin 5 is then run to the OEM fan. A diode (actually 3 in-line 3A diodes in parallel to handle 5A) between pin 3 and pin 5 allows the OEM control to operate the fan normally when the control board is unplugged (J8F plugs into J8M on the control board).

The control board has a 2.2K resistor between pins 1 and 3 of J8, a controlled pullup from pin 1 to +14V, and a controlled pulldown from pin 5 to chassis ground. When not in PHEV mode, the control board does nothing. When in PHEV mode, pin 5 is always pulled down to ground. This causes the fan to run at full bore whenever there is power on pin 1 (normally when the OEM battery temperature is above 89-96 deg F). At the cost of some passenger compartment noise, this keeps the OEM battery temperature below 100 deg F instead of around 114 deg F, thereby keeping it cool enough for EV mode, which will not work when the OEM battery's temperature is above 104 deg F, to continue to be enabled. It would no doubt be possible to proportionately control the fan to this lower temperature, too, but this system is not yet that sophisticated.

The pullup on J8 pin 1 is to allow the PHEV system to force the OEM fan ON when desired and the OEM battery temperature is below 89-96 deg F. A recommended use of this feature is to force the fan ON when the OEM battery temperature is so low that discharge current limit (DCL) is below 100A, thereby (sometimes severely) limiting EV mode current. If the driver, as would be expected, is using the cabin heater, the fan can speed up the heating of the OEM battery by blowing cabin air over it, thereby enabling EV mode sooner than without forcing the fan ON.

==Electronics Tray==

===HVD1===
The purpose of the diode is to allow energy from the regen braking into the PHEV battery pack. This functionality is off when CAN-View's ORIG/PHEV relay is set for ORIG (which turns off HVRL2.) The heatsink can dissipate >200 watts for short braking or around 100 watts for several minutes during downhill braking, and must be well connected to the heatsink and in the path of a fan when is on whenever the car is in ready mode. The diode will only heat when braking or when the battery is being charged by the ICE. The diode requires a DO-5 mounting kit to insulate the diode from the heatsink electrically, but still allow thermal conductivity.

===Contactors===
HVRL1 is responsible for paralleling the PHEV battery pack and the OEM Prius battery. HVRL2 is responsible for enabling / disabling the system. HVRL3 is used for the optional power resistor. HVRL1 and HVRL2 both have snubbers across the terminals to reduce arcing and extend the life of the contactors.

==References==
<references/>

PriusPlus-RawData

2007-07-14T03:27:12Z

Cewert: unlinked old pages

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
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{{TOCright}}
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This page houses all raw materials which have been uploaded for various people to work with and incorporate into documentation on the other pages. Add new documents to the list below and organize them if at all possible.

Image files can be easily linked to by placing a ":" after the "<nowiki>[[</nowiki>", otherwise the image will be shown. If you want the image to appear then after the images name add "|thumb" to create a thumbnail for it, use "|200px" to specify a size other than the default, and use "|caption text" to describe the image as the last element before the closing "]]".

Other non-image files such as .pdf, .doc, .xls, .etc can be linked to with the same "<nowiki>[[</nowiki>Image:" type link or with a <nowiki>[[</nowiki>Media:" link. The :Image link will take you to the files page with a description of the file, list of pages on which it's used, and of course a link to the file itself. The Media link will instead take you directly to that file without visiting the files page first. See some examples in the "Intro Editing Help" section below.

==Files==
Here are the files that are available thus far.

===Schematics===
* High Power [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png|25px]]
* Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** Control Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip]] exported parts list from schematic in Excel format, also includes LED Board.
** [[Template:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList]] use ''<nowiki>{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList}}</nowiki>'' to include in a page.
* LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png]][[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|25px]]
** LED Board [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip]] schematic created in [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH].
** LED Board '''Now combined into [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList.zip|ControlBdPartsList.zip]] above.'''

===Photos===
You can browse the [http://www.eaa-phev.org/index.php?title=Special:Newimages entire gallery] of images here at the eaa-phev site, 
or visit some other galleries with potentially applicable photos:
* [[2007_Maker_Faire#Photos]]
* Inaugural [[Maker_Faire_Photos]]
* [[PiPrius#Photos]]
** [[WhiteBird#Photos]]
** [[GrayPearl#Photos]]

{|
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1183.JPG|thumb|Photo of OEM NiMH battery with case fully removed during [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], which is no longer necessary during current conversions.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1176.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in at the time of the [[Inaugural Maker Faire|Maker Faire]], routed out of OEM battery case near service plug.]]
| valign=top | [[Image:100_1442.JPG|thumb|Photo of the [[PriusBlue]] HV Tie in later after [[PiPrius]] conversion, there is an additional unused wire on the neg(-) OEM contactor for use during "Genset mode"]]
|}

====Rons Images====
* Build Team [[:Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg]]
<gallery>
Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames_061112.jpg|Build Team Photo with labels
Image:P10370.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10371.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.
Image:P10372.JPG|Team Photo around Rons Prius.

Image:P10363.JPG|The unmodified trunk area.
Image:P10364.JPG|Pair of PVC air vents installed in spare tire well.
Image:P10365.JPG|Mockup of the Electronics housing for wiring and circuit boards.
Image:P10373.JPG|The empty new battery box.

Image:P10374.JPG|Electronics housing and misc parts on top of new battery box, ready for installation.
Image:P10382.JPG|Electronics housing and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10389.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated and battery box fitting mockup.
Image:P10385.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.

Image:P10386.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10387.JPG|Electronics housing semi-populated.
Image:P10393.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.
Image:P10394.JPG|Wire Taps into OEM battery fan controls.

Image:P10380.JPG|Electronics housing (front).
Image:P10379.JPG|Electronics housing (bottom).
Image:P10377.JPG|Electronics housing (back).
Image:P10376.JPG|Electronics housing (top).

Image:P10366.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10367.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10368.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.
Image:P10369.JPG|Electronics in Rons Prius.

Image:P10381.JPG|Working on Circuit boards.
Image:P10383.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10384.JPG|Populating Electronics housing.
Image:P10403.JPG|Electronics housing cooling fan flaps.

Image:P10390.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10391.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10395.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.
Image:P10396.JPG|Bracket for ABS control.

Image:P10397.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10398.JPG|Delta-Q Charger installed.
Image:P10400.JPG|110v breakout quad and 110 to 12v power supply.
Image:P10402.JPG|Ah Meter.

Image:P10405.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10406.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10407.JPG|Old Electronics Board.
Image:P10408.JPG|Old Electronics Board.

Image:P10404.JPG|Inside corner of battery box top.
Image:P10409.JPG|[[CAN-View]] screen.
</gallery>

====Photos from Chris Ewert's Conversion====
These are photos that [[User:Cewert]] has shared with us of his conversion via the CalCars [[PriusPlus]] method.
<gallery>
Image:Cutting Aluminum.JPG|Cutting the aluminum with a hacksaw
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All the pieces necessary for the battery trays
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|All the parts from the tray laid out
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Set Together Close Up.JPG|Close up of the battery tray just set together
Image:Tray Ready for Jig.JPG|Tray set together, ready for creating "jig"
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Starting to assemble the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|More assembling the jig
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Getting the jig assembled
Image:Almost Finished Tray Jig.JPG|Mostly finished tray jig
Image:Dremel Drill Press.JPG|Dremel drill press used for drilling holes in angle irons
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in the aluminum, then countersunk
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Sample corner finished (done on scrap aluminum)
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
Image:2 Trays with Some Supports.JPG|Experimenting with the support angle irons
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
Image:Fuses and Holders.JPG|Fuses and holders
Image:Fuse in holder.JPG|A fuse in it's holder
Image:Bottom of JTN60060.JPG|Bottom of the fuse holder (for DIN rail mounting)
Image:EV200 Contactor.JPG|The Kilovac EV200 contactor
Image:P1240040.JPG|Battery Box sitting on steel tube
Image:Batt_Box_with_screw_lift_supports.JPG|Battery box sitting on steel tube with second tube for screw lift support
Image:Bracket_on_OEM_Batt_screw.JPG|Alt mounting method: modified hanger bolted into battery box mount
Image:Batt_box_test_fit_forward_design.JPG|Alt mounting method: Test fit of unfinished battery box top in forward location
Image:Charger_in_tirewell.JPG|Charger in tirewell
Image:Welded_angle_iron_1.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Welded support connected to support angle irons
Image:Alt_method_support_angle_irons.jpg|Support angle irons
Image:Right_side _battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Right side battery box supports
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Left side battery box supports
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Rubber pad under support angle irons
Image:Entire alt batt box mounting supports.jpg|Entire battery box mounting supports
Image:Electronics box being assembled.jpg|Electronics box being assembled
Image:Electronics Box Partial 1.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box Partial 2.jpg|Mostly completed electronics box
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well.jpg|Installed electronics box and charger
Image:Electronics Box And Charger in Tire Well 2.jpg|Installed electronics box with top on
Image:HVD1 in electronics box.jpg|Close up of HVD1 installed
Image:Contactors in electronics box.jpg|Close up of contactors installed
Image:Left side of electronics box.jpg|Left side of electronics box
Image:Right side of electronics box.jpg|Right side of electronics box
Image:Fuses in electronics box.jpg|Close up of fuses in electronics box
Image:Zivan NG3 Charger connected.jpg|Close up of ZiVan NG3 charger
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed front.jpg|Unstuffed control board - front
Image:PriusPlus control board unstuffed back.jpg|Unstuffed control board - back
Image:Batteries being installed 1.jpg|Batteries being installed
Image:Batteries being installed 2.jpg|More batteries
Image:Batt box top modified for alt mounting method.jpg|Battery box top (modified for alt. mounting)
Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|Bolt on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|Removing carpeting from on top of OEM battery
Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|Removing the upright part of the rear seat
Image:OEM battery exposed.jpg|The OEM battery exposed
Image:Opening OEM battery.jpg|Opening the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside OEM battery from back of car.jpg|Inside the OEM battery (unmodified) from rear of car
Image:Inside OEM battery after tie in.jpg|Inside the OEM battery after HV tie-in
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery.jpg|Unmodified OEM battery low voltage wiring
Image:Low voltage wiring inside OEM Battery modified.jpg|Modified OEM battery low voltage wiring (for charge interlock)


Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

====Photos from 2007 Maker Faire====
Some photos from the [[2007 Maker Faire]] conversion.
<gallery>

Image:Maker Faire 2007 1.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 2.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 3.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 4.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 5.jpg|
Image:Maker Faire 2007 6.jpg|


Image:IMG 1171.jpg|The Make Faire team: left to right, Ron Gremban, Jim Bernard, Carolyn Coquillete, Chris Ewert, Walt Ferris , Nick Rothman, Cody Jackson, Robb Protheroe, Tom Driscoll, Felix Kramer, Jim Philippi. Not shown: Randy Reisinger, Ailian Chong, Amanda Kovattana, Marc Geller, Fraser Smith.
Image:IMG 1179.jpg|Outside the building, at the main entrance to Maker Faire, the team posed Ron's car (world's first Prius conversion) and Felix's car (with Valence lithium-ion batteries)
Image:IMG 1154 2.jpg|Applying the vinyl lettering to Jim's car.
Image:IMG 1186.jpg|Securing the battery box frame to the body of the car.
Image:IMG 1187.jpg|The battery box fits above the battery and tilts up to allow access to the spare tire.
Image:IMG 1188.jpg|Last-minute wiring diagrams.
Image:IMG 1190.jpg|Our work-site had crowds all day Saturday and Sunday.
Image:IMG 1205.jpg|Installing components inside the battery box.
Image:IMG 1208.jpg|Custom-made circuit boards included.
Image:IMG 1215.jpg|The team worked late Sunday night to wrap up the project.

</gallery>

====Alternative Mounting Method====
This is very much a work-in-progress. There may be unresolved design flaws with this method. More details and photos to follow.

The battery box can optionally be mounted forward and lower which allows more components to be installed in the spare tire well, maximizing usable trunk space. The charger can be located below the battery pack, and the electronics and electrical wiring are lowered and partially under the battery pack. This method allows the conversion to be completely below the false floor and may also provide some benefit for stability and/or safety.

The four battery trays are assembled the same way as on the [[PriusPlus-Mechanical]] page. The trays are supported by 4 aluminum angle irons which sit on rubber mounts that sit directly on the steel trunk of the Prius. The supports are held in place by 2 steel angle irons bolted (or welded) to the trunk and 2 brackets anchoring into the OEM battery supports.

# 2 modified I-beam hangers (normally used for mounting electrical conduits to I-beams) are modified and bolted onto the supports for the battery box and both hold the forward most support angle iron in place (does not hold weight) and provides a bolt down point for the top of the battery box.
# All support angle irons are offset from the trunk of the car by rubber pads (about 1/4 inch thick)
# One of the pegs for mounting the OEM SmartKey sensor in the trunk can also be used to hold the forward most support angle in place.
# The middle 2 angles are bolted together on the ends and in the middle and are held in place by bolts from the battery box top.
# The rear most support angle is mounted by 2 1 1/2 inch steel angle irons welded to the trunk. Holes are drilled on the outside of where the trays sit and are bolted through the angle iron and the aluminum angle iron on both sides.
# Steel angle irons with a hole and a bolt welded (or bolted) to one side are used to provide mounting points for the battery box top.
# Battery box top bolts down into steel angle irons which are bolted onto the support angle irons. Front battery box top bolts down into modified I-beam hangers.

OEM battery support bolts are metric 8mm diameter, 1.25 thread bolts. A bolt with a 30mm length seems to be the ideal length for a replacement. The OEM bolts appear to be about 20mm in length.

The battery box cannot block easy access to the OEM orange emergency disconnect.

====Older PriusPlus Images====
Coming soon some photos from Rons original [[PriusPlus History]] conversion which may still be applicable to this project...

===General Reference Materials===
These are some other General Reference Materials we use elsewhere on the site. This is also an example of how to use references within the page text. See [[PiPrius conversion process]] for another example of a page with multiple reference tages.

* Prius Dismantle Manual <ref>[[Media:Priusdisman.pdf]] from http://www.airlabcorp.com/Prius/priusdisman.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:Stereo Accessory Install Guide 04 Prius v1.03.pdf]] from http://www.chrisdragon.com/downloads/Stereo%20Accessory%20Install%20Guide,%2004%20Prius,%20v1.03.pdf</ref>

* Stereo Installation, Dash Dismantle <ref>[[Media:PriusXMradio3.2.pdf]] from https://www.metrotpn.com/documents/PDF%20Files/Prius/Eddie's%20XMRadio%20Install/PriusXMradio3.2.pdf</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install without Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installNONAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html</ref>

* [[CAN-View]] install with Nav <ref>[[Media:CAN-View installWNAVwt.pdf]] Adapted from http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html</ref>

* [[Prius EV Mode Button]] Installation <ref>[[Media:Prius-evbutton-install.pdf]] from http://www.calcars.org/prius-evbutton-install.pdf</ref>

* Factory EV Mode Button <ref>[[Media:FactoryEV.pdf]] from http://www.scubadivervideo.com/Files/factoryEV.pdf</ref>

You should be familiar with these reference materials and standard operating procedures around high voltages.
<references/>

===ToDo===
Stuff to be imported/uploaded:

==Intro Editing Help==
===File Specific Help===
File link Examples, click the edit button for this section to see how it works.

====Text Links:====

* Using :Image takes you to the Images description page:
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* Using Media takes you directly to the file:
** [[Media:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]
* You can use a | to change the text of the link to something more descriptive.
** [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|Control Board]]

====Inline resized images:====

25px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|25px]], 50px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|50px]], 150px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|150px]],

300px[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|300px]]

====Thumbnails:====

[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|caption]]

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{{Clear}} The <nowiki>{{Clear}}</nowiki> template can be used to force empty white space after a thumbnail before continuing with the next block of text.

* A Second Example...
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|left|Small On Left]]
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|thumb|100px|Small On Right]]
Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.
'' Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''
''Thumbnail tag will embed the image inline such that text will wrap arround the image. The image will be alligened to the right by default or can be forced with a "|center" or "|left" tag. Thumbnails should also include some caption as their last "|caption element". Notice that the image code is placed above this text so that the text and image begin at the same place.''

{{Clear}}

====Raw Large====
* The raw image will be shown in a large size so probably shouldn't be used within a document like this. Rather visitors should click on a smaller image, thumbnail, or link to see the Images page, from there they can use a link to get the fill sized original image. [[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png]]

===General Help===

Intro Paragraph here maybe with a link to the main [[PriusPlus]] article, links to external sites can appear as formatted [http://www.calcars.com CalCars], just plain URLs like http://www.calcars.com, or fancy references such as that in the next paragraph.

Another Paragraph and such, you can get help at our [[Help:Contents#How do I use the Wiki Website]] page <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents more help using the wiki.</ref> Feel free to simply remove or if you like move all of this example text to the pages discussion article.

==A Major Topic==
Talking about the major topic.

===Sub Topic===
Yes, this is a sub topic

===Sub Topic number two===
You guessed it, another sub topic.

==References==
<references/>

User talk:Cewert

2007-07-14T03:25:00Z

Cewert: Re: Final Push

PriusPlus-Theory

2007-07-14T02:54:44Z

Cewert: /* The PHEV Battery Pack */ wrote a very basic overview of how the system works

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----

Intro Paragraph here maybe with a link to the main [[PriusPlus]] article, links to external sites can appear as formatted [http://www.calcars.org CalCars], just plain URLs like http://www.calcars.org, or fancy references such as that in the next paragraph.

Another Paragraph and such, you can get help at our [[Help:Contents#How do I use the Wiki Website]] page <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents more help using the wiki.</ref> Feel free to simply remove or if you like move all of this example text to the pages discussion article.

Please feel free to hack this up or delete it, as I could have this all wrong. I just wanted to get this started. Jim P.

*Prius plus:

The Prius Plus is a contactor based conversion for an '04 or newer Prius. A sealed lead-acid battery pack is added along with a standard 120 volt charger and supporting electronics. The converted Prius Plus has an electric only range of about 10-12 miles.

The main components are:
# The PHEV battery pack
# The Charger
# The CAN-View
# Control board

==Overview==
'''Todo''' This needs to be polished, but its just a quick overview for someone looking to do a conversion of how the system functions.

The fundamental basis of this conversion is the reported state of charge (SOC) of the stock NiMH battery in the Prius and keeping that reported state of charge where we want it to encourage the hybrid synergy drive (HSD) to use as much electric power as possible (at the right times) to offset gasoline usage. During different driving profiles, it is better to use electricity at different times. However, putting that aside for now, generally, to allow all EV driving, the SOC needs to be kept in a certain range (typically around 60-63%). When the reported SOC drops below the lower threshold, the PHEV battery and the OEM battery need to be paralleled. It has been found that EV mode can cause the OEM battery voltage to drop below 200 volts while accelerating. The algorithm for determining when to parallel the OEM battery and the PHEV battery needs to parallel the batteries when the voltage drops below 200 volts to make sure the car doesn't cancel EV mode because the OEM battery voltage is too low. To get the Prius to use electricity in highway driving, the reported SOC needs to be brought up to over 70% (typically 72-73%, however, never exceeding 80%.) The charge current limit (CCL or ACL in CAN-View) must be monitored to make sure the OEM battery is not being overcharged or overheated. The Prius will then enter a "get rid of charge any way possible" and be encouraged to use more electricity (up to about 6kW.) When the batteries are paralleled, it causes a voltage rise (because the PHEV pack is a higher nominal voltage than the stock battery). When the voltage hits a certain point, it causes a state of charge drift, which, once started, very rapidly increases the reported SOC.

In the current revision of the system, CAN-View (a computer sitting on the CAN bus monitoring status) is responsible for controlling the contactors. See below for more information on specific relays on CAN-View. The output from the 6 CAN-View relays is fed into a logic statement (currently just relay 3 OR 5 OR 6) to determine when to parallel the two packs. Another relay (#4) is a special relay turned on when the system is enabled, and off when the system is disabled.

==The PHEV Battery Pack==

The PHEV pack consists of twenty 12 volt 20 amp hour sealed lead acid batteries connected in series. The batteries themselves sit in an aluminum box and are mounted above the spare tire well, but below the false floor in the trunk. The pack has a nominal voltage of 240 volts and has a total energy storage of about 4.8 kWh (not all usable.) In this design, the PHEV battery pack has a higher nominal voltage than the stock NiMH battery and is used to charge the stock NiMH battery. Contactors (large relays) are used to connect and disconnect the PHEV battery pack from the stock battery when charging is needed. The higher voltage pack cannot always be connected to the stock pack, because that would overcharge the batteries. NiMH battery packs also cannot easily be charged in parallel, so simply adding a second NiMH battery pack is not simple. The current from the battery pack is less than 60 amps, and therefore the pack is fused with 60 amp 300VDC (or higher) fuses. The batteries must be connected using 8 AWG wire or larger (smaller AWG number) to handle the amount of current.

The PHEV battery does not have its own battery management computer. As the PHEV battery’s state-of-charge (SOC) decreases, it is put in parallel with the OEM battery more and more continuously. Charge-sustaining operation at the PHEV battery’s minimum intended SOC occurs when the PHEV battery’s voltage matches the voltage of the OEM battery’s 60% SOC voltage well enough that average PHEV battery current becomes zero. This is a soft limit that depends upon driving conditions, temperatures, PHEV battery condition, and the state of the moon; and PHEV operation slowly morphs into hybrid operation rather than changing abruptly. Ordinarily, around 10-13 Amp-hr is removed from the PHEV battery before electric assist is exhausted. The depth-of-discharge (DOD = 100% - SOC) that this corresponds to is anyone’s guess, as due to Peukert’s Law (PbA batteries have lower capacity at high discharge rates) and high, variable discharge rates, the battery pack’s capacity is diminished by a large, unknown amount.

===Current PbA limitations===
*The conversion adds 300+ lbs to the vehicle’s weight to provide 10 miles of electric range per charge (16.7 usable Wh/kg)
**Though Ron has safely driven 17,000 miles in his converted Prius, the added weight could possibly cause vehicle instability during driving, and the battery may modify the effectiveness of the vehicle’s rear crush zone.
**Existing conversions sit 1-2 inches low in the rear. Air shocks or heaver-duty rear springs would be nice, but have not yet been developed.
**Though there are indications that improved hybrid efficiency due to a lower combined internal resistance of the two-battery combination at least partially compensates for the added weight, city gasoline mileage is otherwise reduced by up to 10%.
*Operating costs are high due to an expected cycle life of only 300-400 deep cycles, providing only one to two years of daily driving (at 400 cycles, 10 electric miles per 2.1 kWh cycle, and $800/pack, battery cost is $0.95/kWh throughput or $0.20/electric-mile (in addition to the cost of electricity, usually 2-4 cents/mile depending on utility rates).
*For decent battery life, the battery must always be charged within a day of discharge, making charging a required rather than optional operation (if planning to drive to somewhere without access to electricity, temporarily turn off PHEV operation).
*PbA batteries perform very poorly in cold weather. Though our design includes a thermally insulated battery pack, heated during charging, this feature has been insufficiently tested due to moderate California temperatures during development.

===Possible Future Battery Options===
More advanced batteries may be retrofittable to the conversion. This will probably require upgrading to CalCars’ not-yet-designed next version of logic board, and will also probably require additional battery management electronics. Any new battery’s enclosure, mounting, and thermal management system will no doubt also be very different.

Possible future batteries and their likely characteristics (incl. low-volume pricing):

Example pack
{| border=1 cellpadding=2 |
| Chemistry || || Usable Wh/kg || Cycle life || Yr daily driving || $/usable kWh || $/kWh thruput || Cents/ EV-mi || kWh || $ || EV mi || Wt, lb
|-
| PbA (current) || || 16 || 400 || 1.1 || $380 || $0.95 || 20.0 || 2.1 || $ 798 || 10 || 289
|-
| NiMH || worst || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $1,200 || $0.60 || 12.6 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiMH || best || 36 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 4.2 || $3,360 || 20 || 257
|-
| Li-ion || worst || 56 || 1000 || 2.7 || $1,200 || $1.20 || 25.2 || 4.2 || $5,040 || 20 || 165
|-
| Li-ion || best || 100 || 4000 || 11.0 || $800 || $0.20 || 4.2 || 6.3 || $5,040 || 30 || 139
|-
| NiZn || worst || 36 || 500 || 1.4 || $500 || $1.00 || 21.0 || 4.2 || $2,100 || 20 || 257
|-
| NiZn || best || 36 || 2000 || 5.5 || $350 || $0.18 || 3.7 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || worst || 36 || 1000 || 2.7 || $350 || $0.35 || 7.4 || 4.2 || $1,470 || 20 || 257
|-
| Firefly PbA || best || 45 || 4000 || 11.0 || $250 || $0.06 || 1.3 || 5.25 || $1,313 || 25 || 257
|}

Note that figures are for usable, not total, capacity in kWh (usually 80%, but much less for the current PbA pack (4.8 kWh total capacity), due to Peukert’s Law).

==The Charger==

The charger runs on standard 120v (or 240v) AC power and is used to recharge the PHEV pack. Three options are planned:
*a Delta-q charger (http://www.delta-q.com) designed for the PbA battery pack, at a projected price of $800. We are in discussions with the company and will soon know if/when pre-production units will be available; UL-approved units are likely to be available in 2007.
*the Brusa NLG503 charger, available through http://www.metricmind.com/index1.htm for $2650 retail including cables (a group rate is possible). Users can reprogram this charger for other voltages and battery chemistries, so it would be a good purchase for developers anticipating an eventual high-tech replacement battery.
*(eventually) the Manzanita Micro PFC-40 charger, available through http://manzanitamicro.com for around $2000. This charger has programmable but less sophisticated charging algorithms, but can also double as a high-power DC:DC converter between the battery packs. Its output is ''not'' line isolated. Its incorporation will require modifications/enhancements of this conversion, and control circuitry and algorithms that have not yet been developed.

Useful information on charging lead-acid batteries can be found at [http://batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm http://batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm]

==The CAN-View==

The [[CAN-View]] is a computer which monitors the [[CAN]] bus (the bus which the different microprocessors in the Prius use to communicate with each other) and both displays information to the driver on a display as well as control the extra plug-in systems. The Can-View computer can be programmed to turn on and off a series of relays which are used to control the PHEV operations. There are currently 2 versions of CAN-View available. Version 3 requires an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or [[MFD]]) while Version 4 works with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) CAN-View is simple to install and installation typically requires between a half hour to one and a half hours. For more information, see [[CAN-View]].

Version 3 of [[CAN-View]] must be ordered with the PHEV relay board option to be used in this conversion. Version 4 comes standard with the PHEV relays. [[CAN-View]] has 6 relays. Relays RL1 and RL4 are special relays which are try-EV mode and PHEV/orig. RL4 is triggered by pressing "orig/PHEV" on the CAN-View screen.

RL2, RL3, RL5 and RL6 are programmable. The following are the parameters that Ron is currently using for the CAN-View relays: (RL2 and RL3 are NOR'd together; the result is OR'd with RL5 OR RL6; the EV-only parameter is not used):

* RL2: ON > 77 OFF < 75 %SOC -OR- ON < 55 OFF > 60 CCL for 0 seconds
* RL3: ON < 40 OFF > 45 mph -OR- ON < 5 OFF > 20 %throttle for 3 seconds
* RL5: ON < 200 OFF > 235V -OR- ON < 200 OFF > 235V for 0 seconds
* RL6: ON < 60 OFF >63 %SOC -OR- ON < 60 OFF > 63% SOC for 0 seconds

Note: The result of "RL2 NOR RL3" is the AND of the complement of all four RL2/RL3 conditions. Therefore, the above "(RL2 NOR RL3) OR RL5 OR RL6" control board logic, when simplified (ignoring the "X seconds" timing), becomes the following logic for activating HVRL1, which parallels the PHEV and OEM battery:

( < 77 OFF > 75 % SOC
     -AND- > 55 OFF < 60 CCL
     -AND- > 40 OFF < 45 mph
     -AND- > 5 OFF < 20 %throttle)
         -OR- < 200 OFF > 235V
         -OR- < 60 OFF > 63 %SOC

==EV Mode Button/Wire==
The Prius can be put into "EV" mode which essentially turns the car into an electric car for speeds under 34mph. While Prius's come standard with a button in the dash in some countries, the button is not on the North American model, however the software is still present. EV mode can be entered by momentarily grounding pin 27 on plug H16 on the HV ECU. If the car exceeds 34mph or a host of other conditions are not met (such as the current charge limit, OEM battery temperature, low SOC, throttle, etc), the Prius will automatically exit EV mode and resume ICE use. For more detailed information on EV mode, see [[Prius EV Mode Button]].

==Control Circuit Board==

A circuit board is needed which contains the logic to control the added heaters, fans, contactors, etc. The board is roughly 5" by 6" and is mounted in the electronics tray, between the PHEV battery and the stock battery.

Sub parts of this board are;
* Power management - takes input from CAN-View and controls the contactors connecting the PHEV battery with the stock battery.
* Battery Heating & Cooling - senses and controls the fans and heaters to keep battery temperatures within defined ranges.
* System diagnostics - A simple LED board interface to monitor the technical operation of the system for debugging.
* Charge interlock - stops the car from being driven away while plugged into a live outlet.

===PHEV Battery Heating & Cooling===

Lead acid batteries do not function as well when they are either hot or cold. The pack is heated and cooled as necessary by three standard 12" x 15" heating pads and three fans. The circuit board is responsible for controlling the heaters and fans. Depending on the layout, vents are provided either throught he bottom of the tire well or through the stock vent behind the storage bin on the rear drivers side of the car.

===OEM Battery Fan Controls===
The OEM controller connects the light green wire to the OEM fan to +14V when the OEM battery temperature reaches around 89-96 deg F. This control leaves that connection in place but taps it and runs it to J8F pin 1. Once the fan is so energized, proportional control is affected by varying the current to the violet line to the negative terminal of the OEM fan. The voltage of this line is monitored, and a DTC (system error) is asserted if the fan has become an open circuit. Control is effected by removing the violet line from the OEM fan and running it instead to J8F pin 3. J8F pin 5 is then run to the OEM fan. A diode (actually 3 in-line 3A diodes in parallel to handle 5A) between pin 3 and pin 5 allows the OEM control to operate the fan normally when the control board is unplugged (J8F plugs into J8M on the control board).

The control board has a 2.2K resistor between pins 1 and 3 of J8, a controlled pullup from pin 1 to +14V, and a controlled pulldown from pin 5 to chassis ground. When not in PHEV mode, the control board does nothing. When in PHEV mode, pin 5 is always pulled down to ground. This causes the fan to run at full bore whenever there is power on pin 1 (normally when the OEM battery temperature is above 89-96 deg F). At the cost of some passenger compartment noise, this keeps the OEM battery temperature below 100 deg F instead of around 114 deg F, thereby keeping it cool enough for EV mode, which will not work when the OEM battery's temperature is above 104 deg F, to continue to be enabled. It would no doubt be possible to proportionately control the fan to this lower temperature, too, but this system is not yet that sophisticated.

The pullup on J8 pin 1 is to allow the PHEV system to force the OEM fan ON when desired and the OEM battery temperature is below 89-96 deg F. A recommended use of this feature is to force the fan ON when the OEM battery temperature is so low that discharge current limit (DCL) is below 100A, thereby (sometimes severely) limiting EV mode current. If the driver, as would be expected, is using the cabin heater, the fan can speed up the heating of the OEM battery by blowing cabin air over it, thereby enabling EV mode sooner than without forcing the fan ON.

==Electronics Tray==

===HVD1===
The purpose of the diode is to allow energy from the regen braking into the PHEV battery pack. This functionality is off when CAN-View's ORIG/PHEV relay is set for ORIG (which turns off HVRL2.) The heatsink can dissipate >200 watts for short braking or around 100 watts for several minutes during downhill braking, and must be well connected to the heatsink and in the path of a fan when is on whenever the car is in ready mode. The diode will only heat when braking or when the battery is being charged by the ICE. The diode requires a DO-5 mounting kit to insulate the diode from the heatsink electrically, but still allow thermal conductivity.

===Contactors===
HVRL1 is responsible for paralleling the PHEV battery pack and the OEM Prius battery. HVRL2 is responsible for enabling / disabling the system. HVRL3 is used for the optional power resistor. HVRL1 and HVRL2 both have snubbers across the terminals to reduce arcing and extend the life of the contactors.

==References==
<references/>

Talk:PriusPlus-Instructions

2007-07-14T02:30:47Z

Cewert: main section

=Target outline (subject to change):=
* An brief overview of the conversion, link to the main PriusPlus page for more in depth info
* Perhaps a "preview" of what they will be doing (maybe something similar to this outline?)

* Making decisions before starting the conversion
** Choosing a mounting method (done)
** Choosing the charger (list options - currently ZiVan NG3, DeltaQ (not available), Brusa, ManzitaMicro)
** Bumper inlet vs. mounted cord reel [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/eaa-phev/message/709 maillist discussion]

* Install CAN-View (first because it really helps in understanding how the Prius works)

* Building sub components
** Battery trays
** Battery box supports
** Battery box top
** Electronics tray / box
*** Mechanical construction of tray / box
*** Control board assembly
*** LED board assembly
*** Internal electronics tray/box wiring (yet to be written - though schematics exist)
** Charger mounting brackets (yet to be written)

Perhaps a page break here in the future after things get solidified more?

* Installation into the Prius (the intent is that any prep work can be done before this point, so this step (which involves tearing apart the Prius) takes as little time as possible.)
** Remove the really basic stuff (the false floor, spare tire, storage bin)
** Route the EV mode wire and CAN-View cable to the trunk area
** Install charger / electronics box (for alt. mounting method) and related interconnect wiring
** Install 120v outlets / power supply (classic mounting method)
** Install battery box supports (alt. and classic, but different instructions for each)
** Install electronics tray and related interconnects (classic method)
** Dis-assemble the rest of the Prius trunk (instructions are written already on mechanical page)
** Do the OEM battery fan wiring modification (same for both, length of wire to control board is the only difference)
** Do the OEM battery tie in and tap the "READY" wire (requires disassembling the OEM battery, running HV wire - most of this already written)
** Re-assemble the Prius trunk.
** Tap into the 12v. accessory battery
** install & wire batteries and put on the battery box top (this needs to be one fluid step - it isn't safe to drive the car while the batteries are loose.)
** First, basic test of system - (yet to be written, but we have a lot of emails that could be translated into a paragraph from getting Jim Philippi's car working.)
** Programming CAN-View, control board, etc
** Optional - bumper inlet instructions or mounted cord reel.

=Master PriusPlus Todo List=
The priorities are assigned based strictly on how critical they are to somebody being able to actually do a conversion.

==High Priority==
* Finish the HV parts list, move all the parts lists onto the Parts List page and add links from the main step-by-step page to the parts lists where necessary.
* Create diagrams of wiring for the individual connectors coming off the control board
* Verify battery box base mounting / add details needed (classic method)
* Details on mounting the GFCI outlet box in the tire well (classic method)
* Details on mounting & wiring the electronics tray/box components (diagrams are created and on the page already, wiring needs to be addressed)
* Write up battery prep, installation & wiring
** Needs a diagram of how to lay out batteries

==Medium Priority==
* Details on cutting and assembly of electronics tray plastic (classic PriusPlus method.)
* Write up mounting the DeltaQ charger in the driver's side cubby hole (classic method)
* Go through the documentation and make it a smooth read from start to finish
* Placement of thermistors (photos)
* Write up 120v Heater, Charger, power supply, relays & outlets (and hardwiring option)
* Optional charger isolation relay wiring.
* Details on battery box base mounting for alt. mounting method (Chris)
* Write up assembly of electronics box plastic for alt. mounting method (Chris)

==Low Priority==
* Write up Prius re-assembly instructions.
* Write up mounting the cord reel (someone who has done a Classic conversion.)
* Write up Amp meter mounting (to be listed as optional - very low priority right now)
* Write up diagnostic LEDs board mounting - Use self-tapping screws to mount it to the roof of the tray just inside the glass door under the radio. To run the ribbon cable, open up the dash and run a cable as shown it this diagram [or drill a hole in the back of the tray, at the upper left as you look at it]. (Make and add diagram.)
* V4 Screen mounting (low priority because it can be found elsewhere)
* Explain molex crimping tool?
* Write up snubber creation
* How to crimp PP75's
* Improve (clean up layout) CAN-View/EV mode instructions

* General organization
** Make the DigiKey parts lists more visable
** Sync up the DigiKey parts list with the latest lists that Jim provided (Chris)
** Clean up parts lists, fix photos, etc

Talk:PriusPlus-Instructions

2007-07-14T02:30:03Z

Cewert: Priorities

Target outline (subject to change):
* An brief overview of the conversion, link to the main PriusPlus page for more in depth info
* Perhaps a "preview" of what they will be doing (maybe something similar to this outline?)

* Making decisions before starting the conversion
** Choosing a mounting method (done)
** Choosing the charger (list options - currently ZiVan NG3, DeltaQ (not available), Brusa, ManzitaMicro)
** Bumper inlet vs. mounted cord reel [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/eaa-phev/message/709 maillist discussion]

* Install CAN-View (first because it really helps in understanding how the Prius works)

* Building sub components
** Battery trays
** Battery box supports
** Battery box top
** Electronics tray / box
*** Mechanical construction of tray / box
*** Control board assembly
*** LED board assembly
*** Internal electronics tray/box wiring (yet to be written - though schematics exist)
** Charger mounting brackets (yet to be written)

Perhaps a page break here in the future after things get solidified more?

* Installation into the Prius (the intent is that any prep work can be done before this point, so this step (which involves tearing apart the Prius) takes as little time as possible.)
** Remove the really basic stuff (the false floor, spare tire, storage bin)
** Route the EV mode wire and CAN-View cable to the trunk area
** Install charger / electronics box (for alt. mounting method) and related interconnect wiring
** Install 120v outlets / power supply (classic mounting method)
** Install battery box supports (alt. and classic, but different instructions for each)
** Install electronics tray and related interconnects (classic method)
** Dis-assemble the rest of the Prius trunk (instructions are written already on mechanical page)
** Do the OEM battery fan wiring modification (same for both, length of wire to control board is the only difference)
** Do the OEM battery tie in and tap the "READY" wire (requires disassembling the OEM battery, running HV wire - most of this already written)
** Re-assemble the Prius trunk.
** Tap into the 12v. accessory battery
** install & wire batteries and put on the battery box top (this needs to be one fluid step - it isn't safe to drive the car while the batteries are loose.)
** First, basic test of system - (yet to be written, but we have a lot of emails that could be translated into a paragraph from getting Jim Philippi's car working.)
** Programming CAN-View, control board, etc
** Optional - bumper inlet instructions or mounted cord reel.

=Master PriusPlus Todo List=
The priorities are assigned based strictly on how critical they are to somebody being able to actually do a conversion.

==High Priority==
* Finish the HV parts list, move all the parts lists onto the Parts List page and add links from the main step-by-step page to the parts lists where necessary.
* Create diagrams of wiring for the individual connectors coming off the control board
* Verify battery box base mounting / add details needed (classic method)
* Details on mounting the GFCI outlet box in the tire well (classic method)
* Details on mounting & wiring the electronics tray/box components (diagrams are created and on the page already, wiring needs to be addressed)
* Write up battery prep, installation & wiring
** Needs a diagram of how to lay out batteries

==Medium Priority==
* Details on cutting and assembly of electronics tray plastic (classic PriusPlus method.)
* Write up mounting the DeltaQ charger in the driver's side cubby hole (classic method)
* Go through the documentation and make it a smooth read from start to finish
* Placement of thermistors (photos)
* Write up 120v Heater, Charger, power supply, relays & outlets (and hardwiring option)
* Optional charger isolation relay wiring.
* Details on battery box base mounting for alt. mounting method (Chris)
* Write up assembly of electronics box plastic for alt. mounting method (Chris)

==Low Priority==
* Write up Prius re-assembly instructions.
* Write up mounting the cord reel (someone who has done a Classic conversion.)
* Write up Amp meter mounting (to be listed as optional - very low priority right now)
* Write up diagnostic LEDs board mounting - Use self-tapping screws to mount it to the roof of the tray just inside the glass door under the radio. To run the ribbon cable, open up the dash and run a cable as shown it this diagram [or drill a hole in the back of the tray, at the upper left as you look at it]. (Make and add diagram.)
* V4 Screen mounting (low priority because it can be found elsewhere)
* Explain molex crimping tool?
* Write up snubber creation
* How to crimp PP75's
* Improve (clean up layout) CAN-View/EV mode instructions

* General organization
** Make the DigiKey parts lists more visable
** Sync up the DigiKey parts list with the latest lists that Jim provided (Chris)
** Clean up parts lists, fix photos, etc

Talk:PriusPlus-Instructions

2007-07-14T02:29:31Z

Cewert: Master Documentation To-Do list

Target outline (subject to change):
* An brief overview of the conversion, link to the main PriusPlus page for more in depth info
* Perhaps a "preview" of what they will be doing (maybe something similar to this outline?)

* Making decisions before starting the conversion
** Choosing a mounting method (done)
** Choosing the charger (list options - currently ZiVan NG3, DeltaQ (not available), Brusa, ManzitaMicro)
** Bumper inlet vs. mounted cord reel [http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/eaa-phev/message/709 maillist discussion]

* Install CAN-View (first because it really helps in understanding how the Prius works)

* Building sub components
** Battery trays
** Battery box supports
** Battery box top
** Electronics tray / box
*** Mechanical construction of tray / box
*** Control board assembly
*** LED board assembly
*** Internal electronics tray/box wiring (yet to be written - though schematics exist)
** Charger mounting brackets (yet to be written)

Perhaps a page break here in the future after things get solidified more?

* Installation into the Prius (the intent is that any prep work can be done before this point, so this step (which involves tearing apart the Prius) takes as little time as possible.)
** Remove the really basic stuff (the false floor, spare tire, storage bin)
** Route the EV mode wire and CAN-View cable to the trunk area
** Install charger / electronics box (for alt. mounting method) and related interconnect wiring
** Install 120v outlets / power supply (classic mounting method)
** Install battery box supports (alt. and classic, but different instructions for each)
** Install electronics tray and related interconnects (classic method)
** Dis-assemble the rest of the Prius trunk (instructions are written already on mechanical page)
** Do the OEM battery fan wiring modification (same for both, length of wire to control board is the only difference)
** Do the OEM battery tie in and tap the "READY" wire (requires disassembling the OEM battery, running HV wire - most of this already written)
** Re-assemble the Prius trunk.
** Tap into the 12v. accessory battery
** install & wire batteries and put on the battery box top (this needs to be one fluid step - it isn't safe to drive the car while the batteries are loose.)
** First, basic test of system - (yet to be written, but we have a lot of emails that could be translated into a paragraph from getting Jim Philippi's car working.)
** Programming CAN-View, control board, etc
** Optional - bumper inlet instructions or mounted cord reel.

=Master PriusPlus Todo List=
The priorities are assigned based strictly on how critical they are to somebody being able to actually do a conversion.

==High Priority==
* Finish the HV parts list, move all the parts lists onto the Parts List page and add links from the main step-by-step page to the parts lists where necessary.
* Create diagrams of wiring for the individual connectors coming off the control board
* Verify battery box base mounting / add details needed (classic method)
* Details on mounting the GFCI outlet box in the tire well (classic method)
* Details on mounting & wiring the electronics tray/box components (diagrams are created and on the page already, wiring needs to be addressed)
* Write up battery prep, installation & wiring
** Needs a diagram of how to lay out batteries

Medium Priority
* Details on cutting and assembly of electronics tray plastic (classic PriusPlus method.)
* Write up mounting the DeltaQ charger in the driver's side cubby hole (classic method)
* Go through the documentation and make it a smooth read from start to finish
* Placement of thermistors (photos)
* Write up 120v Heater, Charger, power supply, relays & outlets (and hardwiring option)
* Optional charger isolation relay wiring.
* Details on battery box base mounting for alt. mounting method (Chris)
* Write up assembly of electronics box plastic for alt. mounting method (Chris)

Todo (low priority):
* Write up Prius re-assembly instructions.
* Write up mounting the cord reel (someone who has done a Classic conversion.)
* Write up Amp meter mounting (to be listed as optional - very low priority right now)
* Write up diagnostic LEDs board mounting - Use self-tapping screws to mount it to the roof of the tray just inside the glass door under the radio. To run the ribbon cable, open up the dash and run a cable as shown it this diagram [or drill a hole in the back of the tray, at the upper left as you look at it]. (Make and add diagram.)
* V4 Screen mounting (low priority because it can be found elsewhere)
* Explain molex crimping tool?
* Write up snubber creation
* How to crimp PP75's
* Improve (clean up layout) CAN-View/EV mode instructions

* General organization
** Make the DigiKey parts lists more visable
** Sync up the DigiKey parts list with the latest lists that Jim provided (Chris)
** Clean up parts lists, fix photos, etc

PriusPlus-Instructions

2007-07-14T01:56:11Z

Cewert: /* OEM Battery Fan Control Tap */ todo

{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}
----
{{TOCright}}
----
Welcome to the PriusPlus Do-It-Yourself documentation. Below you will find details on converting your 2004-2007 Prius to a plug-in hybrid via the [[PriusPlus]] method. The documentation is laid out in three parts. The [[PriusPlus]] gives an overview of the conversion and lists benefits, limitations and normal operating behavior. [[PriusPlus-Theory]] gives details the theory behind how the conversion works. The PriusPlus-Instructions page (this page) gives detailed, ordered instructions on how to convert your Prius yourself.

==Choosing a Mouting Method==
Before getting too far, you will need to decide on a mounting method. Currently, there are 2 methods, each with their benefits. The majority of the instructions are the same for both methods, however, some sections will be labeled as "classic mounting method" and others as "alternative mounting method" and contain instructions for the specific method.

===Classic Mounting Method===
The "Classic" method is the classic CalCars style. The spare tire well is largely unchanged, the batteries are placed in the very rear of the trunk, an electronics tray is placed in front of the batteries and the charger is placed in the left cubby hole (the carpeting in the cubby hole is cut back.) This method allows for easy access to all the electronics, including the charger.

<gallery>
Image:P10400.JPG|Classic method - spare tire well
Image:P10398.JPG|Classic method - charger
Image:Sven_car_finished_trunk_view.JPG|Finished trunk (top view)
</gallery>

===Alternative Mounting Method===
The "Alternative" method seeks to maximize usable trunk space and minimize visible changes. With this design, the batteries are moved as far forward as possible and the supporting electronics and charger are located in the spare tire well. The batteries stick up through the false floor, but are flush with the Prius's floor. Most of the high voltage electronics are isolated from the low voltage electronics, however some of the high voltage electronics and the charger are more difficult to access because they are below the batteries (they tend to be the more reliable parts, however.) The low voltage electronics are easily accessible.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well.jpg|Spare tire well
Image:Batteries_being_installed_2.jpg|Location of Batteries
Image:Finished Alt Mounting Method.jpg|Finished Product
</gallery>

==CAN-View & EV Mode button==
===Overview===
Start by installing CAN-View. CAN-View gives you insight into how the Prius works and it is best to have it installed before doing the conversion. Please see [[PriusPlus-Theory]] for more information on what [[CAN-View]] and [[Prius EV Mode Button]] do and how they work.

You will need to purchase [[CAN-View]] from [http://hybridinterfaces.ca hybridinterfaces.ca]. There are currently 4 versions of [[CAN-View]] available. Version 3 and 3plus require an '04 or '05 Prius and makes use of the built in display (or [[MFD]]) while Version 4 and 4plus work with an 04-07 Prius but requires an external touchscreen (since the built in touchscreens were changed in the '06 model and are no longer compatible.) Version 4 has the PHEV relays built onto the main board, while version 3 has an extra optional PHEV relay board, which is required for this conversion. Version 3plus and 4plus feature a smart relay board which can interact with battery regulators. At the present, the PriusPlus conversion method does not make use of the smart relay features in the "plus" models.

===Installation===
Approx. time requirement: 45 minutes - 2 hours

The [[CAN-View]] is installed differently depending on whether or not your car is equipped with in-dash navigation. Detailed instructions with photos are available [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installWNAV.html with NAV] or [http://www.hybridinterfaces.ca/installNONAV.html without NAV]. It is best to install and route the wires for the [[Prius EV Mode Button]] at the same time since they both require disassembling the dash.

'''ToDo''' the following section is shared with the [[PiPrius_conversion_process#CAN-View_.26_EV_Mode_Button]] documentation. Any changes should be generic enough to satisfy both, place project specific notes above or below it. Another set of instructions may be needed for the CAN-View Version 4 which does not integrate with the OEM [[MFD]] and gets power directly from the OBDII port, [http://priuschat.com/index.php?act=ST&f=62&t=27906 Prius CAN View V4 Mounting options] at PriusChat.com covers various ways of mounting the second touch screen.

{{Prius CAN-ViewV3 & EV-Mode Button}}

==Battery Tray Construction==
===Overview===
The next step is to start constructing the mechanical components which will be used in the conversion. The battery trays are where the new lead-acid (PbA) batteries will sit. The trays will then be mounted on rails in the trunk and a top will be placed over it to secure the batteries down. The battery trays are the same for both the classic and alternative mounting methods.

Approx. Time Requirement: 10-12 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits: 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 7/32
* Hacksaw with metal blade (or other method of cutting 1/8 inch aluminum)
* Drill or Dremel
* Drill or Dremel press recommended
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Wood saw
* Pop riveting tool
* Grinder (either an attachment for Dremel or bench grinder)

===Parts needed===
* Aluminum material
** Either 3/4" or 1" by 1/8" thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections, 1x 4 foot section)
** 1/4" Aluminum channel iron (1x 8 foot section, 1x 4 foot section)
* 32 5/32 thick, 1/4 inch grip pop rivets
* 32 #4 flat head self threading screws at least 1/2 inch long
* Small piece of plywood for making jig (optional, but makes things easier.)
* Small pieces of wood for making jig (optional)
* Wood screws (optional)

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 sections of the 1/4" aluminum channel iron to the exact length of the batteries (should be 7 1/16 inches.) Having the batteries actually present is important for measuring. A total of 16 of these pieces will be required for all 4 trays.
# Lay out 5 batteries and put the 1/4" aluminum channel irons between the batteries. Measure out the length and cut 2 sections of the aluminum angle irons to the length of the batteries (should be 16 5/16 inches.) A total of 8 of these sections will be required for all 4 trays. See photos below for how to layout the pack.
# Layout 5 batteries with the angle irons from above and measure the width and cut the 2 end pieces (should be 7 1/4 inches.) A total of 8 of these pieces will be required for all 4.
# Lay everything out on top of a piece of plywood and double check measurements with batteries set in the tray as shown below. It is important that the end pieces are under the pieces that run along the length of the tray.
# Screw down blocks of wood around outside of the frame as shown to hold the outside angle irons exactly where they are.
# Remove the batteries one by one and put in pieces of wood where the batteries were to hold frame and aluminum channel irons in place. This jig will hold all the pieces together while drilling.
# Using a small drill press or preferably a Dremel drill press, drill 2 3/32" holes into each corner (or probably only one if using 3/4" angle irons.)
# Once the holes are drilled, remove the top angle iron (the 16 5/16 inch one) and using a 1/8" drill bit, widen the holes so that the #4 screws can pass through them freely (only do this on the longer angle iron, not the bottom!) Then counter-sink with a 7/32" drill bit so that the screw will sit flush in the aluminum (see photo below.)
# Put in #4 self threading screws. The screws should grab into the smaller angle iron and hold the angle irons together firmly. The screws will stick out the other side.
# Using a cutoff attachment on a Dremel (or a hacksaw, but Dremel works much better), cut the screws off. Then grind them down flat using the cut off attachment on a Dremel or a bench grinder.
# Re-insert the finished angle iron frame into jig, and place channel irons in place. Drill 5/32" holes at each end.
# Using a pop-riveting tool, insert 5/32" aluminum rivets into the channel irons from the bottom and tighten.
# Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 trays.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Tray Pieces.JPG|All necessary cut aluminum pieces for 4 trays
Image:Tray Set Together With Battery.JPG|Tray set together with batteries
Image:Tray Parts Laid Out.JPG|Tray parts laid out
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 1.JPG|Place wood around tray frame
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 2.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Making Tray Jig Step 3.JPG|Inserting wood blocks to hold aluminum
Image:Holes drilled in aluminum.JPG|Holes drilled in aluminum
Image:Closeup of Sample Finished Corner.JPG|Finished corner with screws in
Image:Screws Sticking Through Partially Assembled Tray.JPG|Shows the self threading screws sticking out
Image:Finished Tray.JPG|The finished tray
Image:4 Finished Trays.JPG|All 4 finished trays laid out like they will be
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Classic Method)==
Approx. Time Requirement:

===Overview===
The battery box supports are what the battery trays will sit on. In the classic method, aluminum angle irons are bolted onto 2 steel tubes which are bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the alternative method, skip this section and goto the next section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 2 3 foot long 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch steel tubes.
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length may be slightly long, you will probably need to adjust the length when mounting!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly. This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Cut the steel tubes to the appropriate length ('''Todo''' Get exact length)
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays for a 1/4" nut.
# Mark the locations where the aluminum angles sit on the steel tube and drill holes.
# Drill holes in the opposite side of the steel tube, big enough to fit the head of a bolt through
# Drill 2 additional holes in each steel tube in the middle of where each tray will sit. Again, drill out the other side so a nut can be fit through it. Then put a threaded 5/8" threaded rod through the hole and put a nut on each side (and a lockwasher on one side.) This will serve as the holddown for the battery box top.
# Drill 4 holes through the tube, evenly spaced over the entire length. These holes are for mounting the battery box frame to the car.
# Drill additional holes as needed to support the electronics tray
# Once holes are all drilled, coat the steel tube with anti-rust paint / spraypaint.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:P1240040.JPG|The completed battery box sitting on steel tubes (unattached)
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Top_Battery_Box_With_Corner_Bracket.JPG|During construction, shows supports without optional strip in center.
</gallery>

==Battery Box Supports (Alternative Method)==
[[Image:Alt Mounting Diagram.png|thumb|The alternative mounting method diagram]]
Approx. Time Requirement: 4-7 hours

===Overview===
In the alternative mounting method, the battery trays sit on aluminum angle irons which either sit directly on the trunk or on rubber pads (which allow the use of battery heaters.) The battery box is supported by brackets attached to the OEM battery mouting screws and two steel angle irons bolted to the trunk. If you have choosen the classic mounting method, skip this section.

===Tools Needed===
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade (hacksaw or jig saw will also work)
* Bench grinder

===Parts Needed===
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
* 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
* 16 inches of steel 1 1/2 inch angle iron
* 2 joist hangers for electrical conduit
* Screws, Nuts, Lockwashers, Bolts
* 1/4" nuts
* 1/4" or 1/8" rubber pads (optional, but required if heating pads are to be installed.)
* anti-rust paint or spraypaint

===Assembly Steps===
===The center strip===
# See the diagram to the right to see how everything assembles.
# Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) ('''Todo''': Length is too long, you will need to adjust the length when mounting, so be careful drilling holes, test fit first!)
# Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly (for strength). This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.
# Lay out 2 aluminum angles so they form a "T" with the top of the "T" being on the floor. Optionaly insert the aluminum strip into the middle
# Lay everything out as shown in the first photo and use the battery trays to determine the spacing. Leave enough space between the trays in the middle for a 1/4" nut.
# Drill holes through each end of the assembly to anchor the two angles (and optionally the strip) together. The holes must be outside where the battery trays will sit (remember to leave space for a 1/4" nut (which is larger than 1/4")
# Optionally, cut rubber pads to go under each of the aluminum angles.
# Other holes will need to be drilled later when ready to mount.

===Steel Angle Iron Brackets===
# Cut 4 sections of steel angle iron about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long
# Drill a 3/8" hole in the center on one side of the angle iron.
# On the inside of the angle iron, weld (or use JB weld or another strong epoxy) a 5/8" nut on the inside so a bolt can go through the angle iron and into the nut
# Drill a 5/8" hole in the center of the other side of the angle iron
# Paint the steel with a clean metal anti-rust primer (then allow to dry)
# Spray or paint the primed steel with anti-rust paint

===Steel Supports===
# Cut 2 sections of steel angle iron about 4 inches long each
# Drill 2 5/8" holes in the bottom of the angle iron
# These will be used later for mounting into the Prius - the rest of the assembly must be done later

'''Todo''' This isn't finished - check the diagram for more details

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Batt_Box_with_Bolt_Down_Angle.JPG|Shows how the box sits on the aluminum angle supports. Also includes optional 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip in center.
Image:Alt method support angle irons.jpg|Test fitting in the Prius
Image:Welded_angle_iron_2.jpg|Support Steel mounted
Image:Rubber on center batt box support.jpg|Shows the optional rubber pads
Image:Right_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the right side
Image:Left_side_battery_box_supports_alt_method.jpg|Detailed photo of the left side
Image:Entire_alt_batt_box_mounting_supports.jpg|With the battery trays in
</gallery>

==Battery Box Top==
Approx. Time Requirement: 10 hours

===Tools needed===
* Metal Drill Bits:
* Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade very helpful (must be capable of 45 degree angles.)
* Tablesaw with Plexiglass blade, or other method of cutting Plexiglass
* Drill
* Metal file for filing rough edges.
* Dremmel
* Cutoff attachment for Dremmel

===Parts Needed===
* Aluminum material
** 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
** 1 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (1x 4 foot sections for classic - 8 feet for the alternative mounting method)
* Corner brackets - can be found at Mennards in shelving hardware section
* 24x #8-32 flat head machine screws
* 16x #8-32 nuts
* 8x #8-32 x 1/4 inch binding posts
* 1/4 inch Plexiglass or (preferably) Lexan sheet, at least 33 inches by 18.5 inches.
* 4 small non-conductive nylon screw and binding posts (for holding Plexiglass "shields")

===Assembly Steps===
# Cut 2 strips of Plexiglass (or Lexan) 32.5 inches by 1.5 inches. These peices will act as a sheild between the battery terminals and the aluminum (to prevent shorts.)
# Cut opposing 45 degree angle at the end of 2 of the 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron peices to form one of the corners.
# Layout the four trays in the frame angle irons (important for getting correct measurements.)
# Place 4 batteries in the trays, one in each corner (see photo.)
# Place electrical tape over the terminals on the batteries to help prevent any arcs.
# Make sure to leave space for the middle bolt down and bolts for the frame. (The battery box base isn't finished yet and requires space in the middle.)
# Set one of the cut angle irons on top of the batteries (be sure not to arc the batteries!) Place the Plexiglass "Shield" in place and use clamps to it there. This allows for accurate measurements.
# Lay the other angle iron with the opposing 45 degree angle out and measure the width & cut with a 45 degree angle (end peice should be about 15 3/8 inches wide.)
# Hold the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top to the end of the battery pack (use clamps to hold it on.) For the classic mounting method, this is only required on the left and right sides. For the alternative mouting method, the angles should go around the entire battery box top.
# Holding the angle irons and bolt down angle iron right where they should be, set the corner bracket on the corner and make sure that it covers the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the battery box.
# Mark where the holes on the top of the bracket are on the angle iron (or drill holes if necessary.)
# Using the Dremmel cutoff tool, cut down the binding post so that it does not stick all the way thought the bracket if set on top (see picture.)
# Drill a hole in the angle iron and countersink it so that the #8 flat top machine screw fits flush. Put screw in and repeate for the other angle iron.
# Repeate for other sides cutting the angle irons to the right lengths. The length of the angle iron on the side of the battery box should be 34 inches.
# To strengthen the structure of the top, drill holes in from the sides, countersink from the inside and bolt using #8 flat head screws and nuts (bolting the top down is important, remember that the top must hold weight if the car goes over large bumps or is involved in an accident or rollover.)
# Using a drill press or drill, drill through the Plexiglass on the side and the aluminum angle irons near the edges. Countersink the hole in the Plexiglass and insert non-conductive nylon screws and binding posts to hold Plexiglass in place.
# Using the Dremmel with cutoff attachment, grind off the bolts that are sticking out.
# Cut the Plexiglass sheet to the correct length and width to fit snuggly into the top of the battery box.
# Holes need to be drilled into the bolt down angle irons on each side, but I don't have those measurements and it depends how it is bolted down. Holes also need to be drilled in the middle on each aluminum angle iron to clamp down the top to the bottom of the battery box for extra strength.

===Photos===
<gallery>
Image:Starting on the Top of Battery Box.JPG|Starting on the top of the battery box
Image:Top Battery Box 45 Degree Cuts.JPG|45 degree angles cut in angle irons
Image:Top Battery Box With Corner Bracket.JPG|Corner bracket just set on the top
Image:Batt Box Top 3 Angles.JPG|3 angle irons cut and just sitting on the box
Image:Plexiglass Shield.JPG|Shows the Plexiglass "shield" on the inside of the angle irons
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Partially assembled battery box - bolted on top, but not the sides
Image:Inside Corner.JPG|Inside of the corner of the battery box top
Image:Binding Posts Ground Down.JPG|Binding posts that I choose to use. They worked, but they aren't part of the official conversion method
Image:Finished Corner.JPG|A completed corner, bolts in and have been ground off.
Image:Batt Box with Bolt Down Angle.JPG|Shows the angle iron that will be used to bolt down the top
Image:Mostly Finished Batt Box.JPG|Mostly finished battery box. Still lacking the bolts in the center of the pack, holes for bolting the top down and holes in the frame
</gallery>

===Tips===
* If you are buying a new metal cutoff blade for an existing chopsaw, make sure to get one that is large enough to actually cut all the way through the metal with your specific chopsaw.
* Aluminum blades with small teeth do not seem to work well for cutting through 1/8 aluminum angle irons! They grab and tend to throw the saw and are almost impossible to control. Don't attempt an aluminum cutting blade with teeth on a radial saw!
* A hacksaw can work in place of the metal cutoff blade, however it is much more difficult to get straight cuts, even with a metal guide for the hacksaw.
* A jig saw seems to work well for cutting the aluminum angle irons

==Control Board==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|Control Board, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
Approx. time requirement: 6-8 hours

'''A few issues have been found with the posted version of the control board schematics. The new version will be posted shortly with a corrected parts list.'''

===Tools Needed===
* Soldering Iron
* Solder

===Parts List===
'''Todo''' The parts list should ideally be moved to the parts list page.

The public DigiKey parts list for the control board can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014148 here]

{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBdPartsList}}

===Assembly Steps===
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-ControlBd_layout.png|right|thumb|250px|Control Board Layout]]

Solder the components to the printed board according to the schematics above. Make sure to install R3, D1 & D2 1/4 inches off the board and to solder the DIP sockets without the IC's installed. If new at soldering, make sure to use a heat sink for soldering transistors.

===Installation===

# See [[PriusPlus-Mechanical]] for instructions for physically mounting the control board.

===Setup===

Need instructions on how to adjust the pots for the correct temperature.

===Troubleshooting===
The LED board will provide useful information for debugging the control board.

==LED Board==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|LED Board, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
Approx. time requirement: '''Todo'''

===Tools Needed===
* Soldering Iron
* Solder

===Parts Needed===
'''Todo''' The parts list should ideally be moved to the parts list page.
'''Todo''' The schematics, parts lists need to be updated to match new schematics.
The public DigiKey parts list for the LED board can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014149 here]
{{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-LEDBdPartsList}}

==Electronic/Electric Sub Part Construction==
===Diode===
The diode must be firmly and correctly mounted to the heatsink. The diode has a 1/4" stud which passes through the heatsink but does not touch the heatsink. A shoulder or insulating nylon tube must be placed over the stud where the diode passes through the heatsink. This is important so the diode does not electrically make contact with the heatsink. Additionally, 2 electrically insulating, but thermally conductive pads (or mica) must be used on both sides of the heatsink to prevent the diode from making contact on either side of the heatsink. See photos below for how to mount the diode:

====Photos====
<gallery>
Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
Image:Nylon Spacer.jpg|The nylon spacer shown next to what it was made from
Image:Heatsink with Hole.jpg|The heatsink with a hole drilled for the spacer
Image:Heatsink with Hole and Spacer.jpg|Nylon spacer inserted into the hole in the heatsink
Image:Diode Mounted on Heatsink - Rear.jpg|Back side - Diode mounted on heatsink
Image:Diode_Mounted_on_Heatsink_-_Front.jpg|Front side - Diode mounted on heatsink
</gallery>

===Snubbers===
Solder together one lead of the .47uF, 500V capacitor and one lead of the 22 ohm 1 watt resistor. Put heat shrink tubing around the other 2 leads and crimp on ring terminals and solder the crimps to the leads for a better connection. The snubbers are then placed across the two contactors.

===Low Voltage Interconnects===
A list of helpful Molex connector tools on DigiKey can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014151 here].

'''Todo'''

==Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
[[Image:Electronics Tray Classic.png|thumb|Electronics Tray diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help''' Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut the bottom, back, sides. Cut holes in the fans on the sides, and use small shelving brackets to secure the pieces together. Attach electronic components with screws. Plexiglass top.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:P10380.JPG|The electronics tray
</gallery>

==Electronics Box (Alternative)==
[[Image:Electronics Box Alternative.png|thumb|Electronics Box diagram]]

'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded '''please help us complete this section! Email chris at infolaunch.com to help'''. Basically, take 1/4" ABS plastic, cut a bottom, sides, back, front, middle divider, fan divider, and rear top. The front top is 1/4" plexiglass for easy viewing (or more ABS if preferred.) The fan divider is designed to be easily retractable for easy replacement without removing the battery box. Mount the fuse holders with 2 screws in the middle, the contactors, power supply, relays, etc. Preferably use very short self tapping screws that don't go through the plastic to provide electrical isolation from the rest of the car (optional.) It may be useful to use a Dremmel with a small drill bit to star the hole, use the self tapping screw to start the thread and then use a cutoff small screw. Otherwise, countersink a flat head screw on the outside of the box and use nuts and lock washers on the inside.

'''Todo''' The internal wiring should be detailed in this section. Please refer to the schematics on the RawData page for now.

<gallery>
Image:Electronics Box Assembly - Side Vents.jpg|Starting with the materials
Image:Electronics_box_being_assembled.jpg|The electronics box taped together
Image:Electronics Box Assembly Mounting Components.jpg|Components being mounted
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_1.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:Electronics_Box_Partial_2.jpg|Partly populated electronics box
Image:HVD1_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the diode
Image:Left_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Left outside of electronics box
Image:Right_side_of_electronics_box.jpg|Right outside of the electronics box
Image:Contactors_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted contactors
Image:Fuses_in_electronics_box.jpg|Close up of the mounted fuses
Image:Electronics_Box_And_Charger_in_Tire_Well_2.jpg|The electronics box with the HV section's cover resting on top
</gallery>

==Installation Into the Prius==
Now that the sub components are built, it is time to start installing things into the Prius. The following sections will each attempt to leave the Prius in a drivable state after the section is completed.

=Disassembling the Prius=
==Remove user-removable parts==
'''Todo''' This needs to be finished
Remove the false floor, the central storage bin, side storage bin and spare tire.

==Battery Carpet & Seat Removal==
{| align=right
| [[Image:OEM Battery Hold Down Screw.jpg|thumb|These bolts must be taken out]]
|| [[Image:Removing carpeting from top of OEM battery.jpg|thumb|Shows the carpeting being removed from the OEM battery]]
|| [[Image:Removing rear drivers side seat top.jpg|thumb|right|Removing the bolts for the rear seats]]
|}
Remove the two bolts holding down the carpeting over the OEM battery. Be sure to keep them in a plastic bag so they do not get lost. Then lift up on the Velcro attaching to the rear seats. Then, simply pull straight up on the carpeting assembly. It will snap out and expose the top of the OEM battery. There are 2 carpeting clips that must be removed to fully remove the cover from the OEM battery.

With the OEM battery carpeting removed (or the Velcro simply pulled up), remove the two bolts holding in the seat. The seat back then comes out giving access to the front side of the OEM battery (needed for the OEM tie-in.)

==Side panel Removal==
Both of the carpeted side panels in the rear of the Prius must be removed. The driver's side panel must be removed to access the OEM battery for tie-in, and the passenger's side must be removed to access the OEM battery fan to add the override wiring.
# Remove the screen from the trunk (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the cover from the driver's side storage cubby hole (if it hasn't been already.)
# Remove the black strip in the very rear of the trunk (where the latch is for the trunk) by simply lifting straight up (it will pop out.)
# Remove the arm rest sections on the outside of the seats ('''Todo - add photos''')
# Remove the 10mm bolt inside the screen holder using a ratchet with an extension
# Remove the 10mm bolt in the back of the side panel in the section which holds the screen if were deployed. This can be done with a 10mm ratchet or a screwdriver.
# Pull straight out on the entire assembly.
# On the drivers side, there is a wire which connects to the trunk lamp which needs to be disconnected.
# Repeat instructions for the passenger's side.

==Routing CAN-View cables to trunk==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be improved.

Take off the kick panels on either the driver's side or passenger's side, insert CAN-View cable, ribbon cable (for LED board) and EV mode cable (1 wire) and route into trunk.

==Air Vents (Classic Method)==
Remove spare tire and the two black drain plugs that sit in the tire well. You may have to use a dremmel to open the hole so you can drop in the [Delete later-(Ron I think I found a piece of conduit that will flush mount in here. The PVC pipe can be glued to it. I’ll get you a part number and picture. By doing this a project could be prepped weeks in advance and the spare will still fit in there until the final conversion days.) ] 2” PVC threaded coupling. Next connect the 2” 90 deg. Elbow and then a length of 2” PVC pipe per this photo (add photo showing underside of car with both pipes pointing back to the rear.)

==Installing the Outlet Box (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded. '''Please help us finish this section! Write chris at infolaunch.com to help and for the 120 volt wiring schematics that need to be posted here.'''

Take a standard plastic wall 4 gang outlet box, route a 12/3 cable into the box (with strain relief), and wire one duplex (2 individual outlets) directly to the incoming power. Then wire one outlet of the other duplex through one relay, and the other through the second relay (such that the outlets are on only when the relays are on.) The 2 individual outlets controlled by relays are designed for heating pads for the OEM battery and the PHEV battery pack. The other 2, always on when plugged in outlets are designed to power the charger and the power supply.

==Install Charger / Electronics Box (Alternative Method)==
'''Todo''' This section needs to be expanded.

'''Todo''' Add relevant photos from RawData page

Take a sheet of zinc coated steel and cut it out so that it fits neatly in the bottom of the tire well. Drill a hole in the center where the spare tire screw goes (used to hold the sheet in place.) Then, place the charger in the back, behind the center hole. It may be necessary to use pipe or washers to offset the charger from the steel sheet an inch or so to get it to fit (depends on charger used.) Drill holes through the steel sheet and mount charger to it. Then, put a thin carpet or sturdy insulation on the underside of the steel sheet to prevent rattling while driving. It may be necessary to use a 3/4" small block of wood with a hole through the middle to offset the center of the steel where the screw goes into the tire well mount to keep the steel from bending / rattling while driving. The screw is metric. Then, using several strips of extra strength velcro, velcro the bottom of the electronics box to the steel sheet.

==Install Batt. Box Foundation / Electronics Tray (Classic Method)==
Line up the battery box support steel tubes where they should go and drill holes into the trunk floor. It may be necessary to remove part or all of the heat shielding from the muffler on the underside of the car to find the holes. Bolt down.

('''Todo''' Need to detail removing the heat shield on the underside of the car.)
To remove the plastic shield on the driver's side rear of the car, use a flat screw driver to pop out the 3 fasteners. On the back of the shield there is a 10mm bolt holding the plastic shield in place which also needs to be removed.

==Install Battery Box Foundation (Alternative Method)==
'''Todo''' This needs to be better documented

'''Todo''' Add diagram to this section (copy from above)

Remove the two bolts holding down the OEM battery in that stick out into the tire well. Mount the modified I beam brackets so that the back with the screw hole is facing directly towards the back of the car. Drill a hole in the rear support aluminum angle iron to match with those screw holes, countersink a flat screw into that. (see diagram and photos for details on how everything goes together.) On the driver's side, drill a hole through the aluminum for the post on the SKS sensor. The middle section just sits on the steel floor, though bolts into the Prius body may be a good idea. (its held in primarily by the battery box top, but extra strength in the event of a crash would be good.) The rear piece needs to have holes drilled in the Prius steel floor and the steel angle irons (see diagram) bolted to either the steel floor or to the frame member below them off to the side a bit. If bolting to the steel floor, a steel strip on the opposite side should be used, and at least 2 bolts should be used for added strength.

==OEM Battery Fan Control Tap==
[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.png|right|thumb|250px|Fan Control, [http://www.expresspcb.com ExpressSCH] [[:Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-FanCtlSchematic.zip|Schematic]]]]
'''Todo''' Upload new version of schematic

Taps must be added to force the OEM fan on at lower temperatures so the car can remain in EV mode.

The tapping is done at the OEM battery fan. You reach it by taking the right rear inner body panel off (instructions in the Toyota service manual), reaching up inside the ducting, above the right rear wheelwell, and unplugging the power plug to the fan. The plug is not visible; you must unplug it (and plug it in again) by feel. The plug has two light green wires attached to one pin, and two violet wires attached to the other.

Use #18 or larger wires for all of the following. All three wires are run down to the control board, then the OEM battery plug is plugged back into the fan.

Alternative 1: Attach a green wire to one or both of the light green wires, e.g. via a red clip-on wire splice (make sure it makes solid contact). Then cut both of the violet wires about 2" from the OEM battery fan plug. Splice a violet wire onto both of the violet wires that were cut off, and a black wire to one or both of the violet wires still attached to the plug. Splice all three (1N5402, 1N5403, or 1N5404) 3A diodes in parallel as shown, between the violet and black wires near the fan plug, with the cathode (the end with the band) connected to the violet wire. For proper heat dissipation, make sure that the leads and all connections are well insulated, that the body of each diode is open to air flow, and that the diodes are not pressed against each other, and that the whole assembly, when the plug is plugged in, is solidly suspended in mid-air. Three 3A diodes are used in parallel for a maximum of 5A because heat dissipation may be compromised even when installed as above. The other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

<gallery>
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring.jpg|The unmodified wiring
Image:OEM Battery Fan Wiring - Stripped Back.jpg|Unplugged and rubber casing stripped back
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - Diode Mounting 2.jpg|Ladder of diodes
Image:OEM Battery Fan Modification - New Wiring.jpg|Finished wiring modification
</gallery>

Alternative 2 (does not cut Prius wires, but is expensive): Buy two each of the following Toyota replacement OEM battery plug and mating pins:
OEM battery fan plug pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12380
OEM battery fan plug mating pins: Toyota P/N 82998-12370
Splice one plug pin, a mating pin, and a green wire together. Splice a black wire to a plug pin, and a violet wire to a mating pin. Splice the three 1N5402 diodes between the violet and black wires as described above. Now remove the pin with the light green wires from the OEM battery fan plug, connect it to the mating pin with the green wire attached, and secure with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the green wire into the OEM battery fan plug. Next, remove the pin with the violet wires from the OEM battery plug and connect it to the mating pin with the violet wire attached, again securing it with heat-shrink tubing. Insert the plug pin attached to the black wire into the OEM battery fan plug. The pins are removed one at a time so that there is no possibility of getting them reversed when inserting the new pins. As above, the other end of all three wires are routed to the control board, where they are attached to J8F as per the diagram.

The pins can be removed from the OEM battery fan plug by inserting a tiny screwdriver from the back to push the plastic catch aside while pulling on the wire attached to the pin.

==Safety Warning & Tips==
Batteries can be dangerous and can cause serious injury or death and should only be worked on by persons qualified to do so. Both energy hazards from arcs (shorts) and electrical shock can cause serious injury or be fatal with a battery pack of this size. Battery packs are always live and cannot be shut off! The following are safety tips to help prevent arcs and shocks, but they are only tips and should not be taken as a go-ahead to perform work on battery packs. Extreme caution must be taken as it is very easy to accidentally set something on the battery without thinking or drop something and cause a shock or arc. Hire a qualified electrician to help for this part if there is any doubt.

* Remove all jewelry, especially gold, before working with batteries.
* Do not allow metal to come into contact with the batteries that could cause an arc (best practice is to not allow any metal near the battery at all.
* Use only fully insulated tools around batteries, especially in tight spaces (available in the electrical department in most hardware stores.)
* When wiring batteries, be sure the other end of the wire will not accidentally come into contact with any other part of the battery or metal frames. Taping or otherwise protecting the ends of wires is recommended.
* Wear rated rubber electricians gloves and outer protective gloves. Electricians gloves are not fail-proof and every effort should be made to only touch insulated tools even when wearing gloves.
* If electrician gloves aren't used, only one hand should be used so that a shock will not pass current through the heart.
* Always wear gloves when working on batteries (preferably rubber.)
* Install the jumpers in 48 volt sections and then connect those smaller sections together at the very end. This way voltages higher than 48 volts are only handled when installing 4 jumpers instead of 16.
* Even though the batteries are sealed, it is still possible for them to leak and splatter acid, especially if they are just charged, heated or an arc occurs. If a leak occurs, use baking soda to neutralize the acid and properly dispose. Eye protection is a good idea.
* Orient batteries in the tray to avoid terminal contact with any bolts or any metal pieces.

==Tapping into OEM Battery==
{{Disclaimer}}

This step '''MUST''' be performed by someone qualified to work on high voltage systems. Rated rubber electricians gloves should be used for working on the inside of the battery. Please fully read the Safety section before before attempting anything. Lethal voltages are present. Hire a qualified professional for this portion.

'''Todo: This section is not finished'''

Tools needed
* Voltmeter (capable of at least 300 volts DC)
* Ratchet

Parts needed
* 3 #6 AWG ring terminal crimps (an extra is good)
* 2 #8 AWG ring terminal crimps (extras are good)
* small 1 foot section of 6 AWG wire (with insulation rated 600v or higher, preferably THHN)
* non-conductive rubber cap
* electrical tape
* several feet of #8 AWG wire with insulation rated 600v or higher
* optional: 3/8" flex tubing
* optional: other flexible conduit

# Before attempting to open the OEM battery, the orange service disconnect '''MUST''' be fully removed from the OEM battery. To do this, lift up on the orange ring. Once it pops up, push the top part out, away from the battery. This will remove the service disconnect from the battery. Do not re-install the service disconnect until the OEM battery has been closed up. '''BE AWARE, THERE ARE STILL HIGH, LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE THE BATTERY EVEN THOUGH THE DISCONNECT HAS BEEN REMOVED!'''
# Take off the support holding the OEM battery in place. The bolts are found on the driver's side wheel well, on the OEM battery and behind the driver's side rear seat top (the seat top must be removed, see above for information on removing the seat back.)
# Carefully remove the bolts holding the cover on the driver's side of the OEM battery. The 2 bolts will need to be removed from where the orange cables come out of the battery to remove the cover. '''DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE'''
# Once opened, just beyond where the two orange wires enter the OEM battery there are 2 contactors with 2 white plastic shields on top. '''NEVER TOUCH THE TWO TERMINALS AT THE SAME TIME''' Using rated, insulated electrician's rubber gloves remove one of the white plastic pieces by lifting straight up. Using a voltmeter, test the DC voltage between the contactor terminal and ground. If voltage is present (often > 100 volts DC) keep the multimeter on the terminal until the voltage decreases to below 1 volt. '''After''' that has been done on one, remove the other white plastic piece and repeat for the other side. Then check the voltage between all of the contactor terminals (all 4) to ensure they are zero. '''This step must be repeated any time the orange service plug has been inserted into the battery to ensure safety.
# Disconnect the negative wire coming from the OEM battery from the contactor. It is the one fed through the hall effect sensor (see photo.) The wire must be removed from the hall effect sensor.
# Take the piece of 6AWG wire with a 6AWG ring connector firmly attached at both ends and feed it through the hall effect sensor and connect it to the contactor where you just removed the OEM negative battery wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Feed in the new #8 AWG wire from the electronics tray through the opening where the 2 orange wires come through. Attach a #8 AWG ring connector to the wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Bolt the #6 wire from the negative contactor, the negative wire from the OEM battery and the negative #8 AWG (black) wire from the electronics tray together as shown using a lockwasher (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Then wrap tightly with electrical tape (preferably orange), so that the entire assembly is covered with several layers of tape.
# Place a rubber cap on the top and wrap the rubber assembly in tape and attach firmly to the rest of the wire.
# Next, crimp on a #8 AWG ring terminal to the #8 Red wire coming from the electronics tray.
# Remove the bolt on the positive contactor's terminal and add the #8 AWG wire as shown (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
# Replace the white insulators that came off the top of the contactors
# Route the wire in the same way as the black wire out area where the 2 orange wires run
# Make sure there is a little slack wire inside the OEM battery. Then, optionally wrap the 3/8" flex tubing around the 2 new wires to the electronics tray and wrap them in orange electrical tape (orange is keeping in standard for high voltage wiring in hybrids.)
# '''Before reconnecting anything, be absolutely sure that the other end of the high voltage wires are fully insulated (i.e., make sure the Anderson PP75 connectors are on and that there is electrical tape preventing them from accidentally contacting any metal.'''
# Tap a yellow #22 or larger wire onto the yellow low voltage wire going to one of the contactors and route to the electronics tray or box.
'''Todo''' Add a photo of the yellow READY wire.

<gallery>
Image:OEM_battery_exposed.jpg|The OEM battery with the support bracket removed
Image:Opening_OEM_battery.jpg|Removing the OEM battery lid
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_after_tie_in.jpg|After the OEM battery tie in is done
Image:Inside_OEM_battery_from_back_of_car.jpg|Shows the 2 white insulators on the contactors
</gallery>

==Tap into the 12v Accessory Battery==
Run 4 18 AWG wires (2 red, 2 black) from the electronics tray or box to the 12 volt accessory battery (located under the passenger side cubby hole. The 2 red wires should run into a 15 amp 32volt automotive fuse. The other side of the fuse should go to the 12v accessory battery. The black wire should either goto the black terminal on the battery or the chassis (but it must be a very clean connection to the chassis.) The other side of the wires goes to the control board through a .156" Molex KK connector.

==Reassemble the Prius Trunk==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written

==Connecting the PbA batteries==
'''Todo''' Much work needed yet

===Parts Needed===
* Qty 50 8 AWG crimp on ring terminals (probably wise to get a few extra!)
* 8 AWG wire (list total length used here.)
* Orange electrical tape
* 20x BB Battery EVP20-12B 12volt 20ah SLA AGM batteries (2 spares recommended.)

===Assembly Steps===
{{Disclaimer}}

'''Warning: Get an electrician or qualified person to do this, this is working with high voltages which can be lethal or start fires if not taken seriously.'''

Place trays in the foundation and the batteries in trays (look at photos on RawData page to see sequence.) Using crimp on ring terminals, make lengths of wire long enough to connect batteries and crimp the ring terminals on well. Make sure the crimps are very tight and make good contact. This is very important because they could otherwise heat up extremely hot and melt or start a fire. The batteries are arranged electrically into 4 60v sections. The front section and rear section are separated by one of the 60 amp 300v fuses (see HV schematics.) Each other section is separated by Anderson PP75 connectors for easy disconnect. Sections should be assembled individually to prevent voltages from being more than 60 volts until everything is ready to be connected and assembled. Leave the fuses disconnected until everything is finished. Then put on the battery box top and bolt it down.

==Optional Bumper Mounted Inlet==
This is an optional replacement for the mounted cord reel. There may be other inlets available, but a Marinco 150CCI works well and costs about $25-$30.

# Remove the plastic shield on the driver's side of the car if it hasn't been already (see above for instructions.)
# Using a circular drill bit with starting drill bit, drill a 1 7/8" hole in the bumper where you want the inlet to be mounted.
# Route the cable to the inlet before installing the inlet.
# Fasten the inlet to the bumper

==Optional Mounted Cord Reel (Classic Method)==
'''Todo''' Needs to be written by someone who knows how to do this.

==The First Tests==
'''Todo''' This needs much more work

First, using a voltmeter check to make sure that voltages are present both from the OEM battery (should be 220v or so) and from the PHEV pack (should be around 260v.) Plug the car into a ground faulted (preferably also arc faulted) outlet and check to see if the car starts to charge the PHEV battery.

Power up the car very briefly and check to see if the control board turns on. With CAN-View in ORIG mode (not PHEV), make sure that HVRL1 and HVRL2 are both off. Some LEDs should be on on the LED board.

==Programming CAN-View/Control Board==

'''Todo''' Polish this description and format nicely like Ryan's PiPrius ones.

Set the dip switches on the control board:
DIPSW1: 1=OFF, 2=OFF, 3=ON, 4=ON, 5=ON [ HVRL1 = RL3 OR RL5 OR RL6 ] (RL2 will be reserved to force the OEM battery fan ON)
DIPSW1: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control the optional current-limiting power resistor)
DIPSW2: 1-5=OFF (later, 2=ON will force the OEM battery fan ON when RL2 is ON)
DIPSW2: 6-10=OFF (these would be used to control a "Future use #1" output)

RL2 [settings don't yet matter]

For highway driving:
RL3 ON < 71 OFF > 73 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON 25 OFF < 30 Acl (Amps DCL)
ON > 45 OFF < 40 MPH
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
3 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

To stay in EV mode during acceleration:
RL5 ON < 200 OFF > 235V
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? YES

For low speeds, to promote EV mode driving:
RL6 ON < 61 OFF > 63 %SC (%SOC)
AND ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
ON < 100 OFF > 125 MPH (never turns OFF)
0 seconds to change
Must be EV mode? NO

{{Disclaimer}}

PriusPlus-PartsList

2007-07-14T01:52:55Z

Cewert: /* Parts list */ notice about page not being complete yet

Template:PriusPlus-Doc Process

2007-07-14T01:50:01Z

Cewert: unlink old pages, link Instructions, PartsList (ryan, please don't actually delete old pages yet!)

{{Prius PHEV Options Summary}}
{| align=center
| bgcolor=#FAFFFA |
This is the home of the PRIUS+ PHEV DIY (Do-it-Yourself) documentation.
These pages are currently anonymously editable, which may change in the future.
Please feel free to use the Discussion page for general discussion and commentary on the main article.
If you would like to add to an existing section use the '''''"edit"'' link near that topic's heading'''.
Don't forget to use the Summary field to describe your changes.
While editing use the '''"Show Preview"''' button to make sure your changes look like you expect them to, before you click '''"Save Page"'''.
| [[Image:SvensConversionTeamPhotoWNames 061112.jpg|thumb|Team Photo from the [[PriusPlus]] conversion of Sven's Prius from Nov 2006.]]
|-
| colspan=2 align=center bgcolor=#EFFFEF |
--={ '''[[PriusPlus]]:'''
}={ [[PriusPlus-Theory|Theory]]
}={ [[PriusPlus-Instructions|Step-By-Step Instructions]]
}={ [[PriusPlus-PartsList|Parts List]]
}={ [[PriusPlus-RawData|RawData]]

}=--
|}
<includeonly></includeonly><noinclude>
{| width=100%
||
Here is further explanation of the content you will find in these PriusPlus-Doc Process pages.
:{| cellpadding=2
|| [[PriusPlus]] || Main page for the CalCars PriusPlus DIY Documentation
|-
|| [[PriusPlus-Theory]] || Info on the operating theory of the system
|-
|| [[PriusPlus-Instructions]] || Step-By-Step Do It Yourself Instructions
|-
|| [[PriusPlus-PartsList]] || Parts lists for the PriusPlus Project
|-
|| [[PriusPlus-RawData]] || All resource files, schematics, images, etc.
|}
|}
</noinclude>