PriusPlus-Electrical - Revision history

Rjf: {{PriusPlus-Doc_Process|mw-collapsed}}

2020-06-14T12:18:05Z

Rjf: rm dup Category:Prius PHEV

2007-10-09T08:51:38Z

rm dup Category:Prius PHEV

Rjf: Categories

2007-08-28T18:54:55Z

Cewert: /* Parts Needed */ fans

2007-06-23T23:58:46Z

Parts Needed: fans

Cewert: Charge interlock not going to be needed anymore

2007-06-04T16:37:26Z

Charge interlock not going to be needed anymore

Cewert: making sections more defined

2007-05-27T23:51:30Z

making sections more defined

Cewert: /* Tapping into OEM Battery */ small additions

2007-05-27T23:47:34Z

Tapping into OEM Battery: small additions

Cewert: /* Warning & Tips */ renamed

2007-05-27T23:42:14Z

Warning & Tips: renamed

Cewert: /* Tapping into OEM Battery */ started writeup

2007-05-27T23:41:44Z

Tapping into OEM Battery: started writeup

Cewert: /* Parts Needed */ part number for batteries

2007-05-25T02:26:22Z

Parts Needed: part number for batteries

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:18, 14 June 2020
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−	{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process}}	+	{{PriusPlus-Doc_Process\|mw-collapsed}}
−	-~~---~~
−	~~{{TOCright~~}}
−	~~----~~

	[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png\|thumb\|These are the high power schematics from the latest [[PriusPlus]] conversion.]]		[[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png\|thumb\|These are the high power schematics from the latest [[PriusPlus]] conversion.]]

@@ Line 159: / Line 159: @@
 [[Category:PHEV]]
 [[Category:Prius]]
 [[Category:PriusPlus]]
 [[Category:CalCars]]

@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
 [[Image:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HighPowerSchematic.png|thumb|These are the high power schematics from the latest [[PriusPlus]] conversion.]]
 Intro Paragraph here maybe with a link to the main [[PriusPlus]] article, links to external sites can appear as formatted [http://www.calcars.org CalCars], just plain URLs like http://www.calcars.org, or fancy references such as that in the next paragraph.
@@ Line 159: / Line 156: @@
 =References=
 <references/>

@@ Line 49: / Line 49: @@
 | || 22+ || ? AWG crimps for PP15 || Anderson || PP15 || $/ea
 |-
-| || 3 || 12v Fans || || || $1-5/ea
+| || 3 || 12v Fans 120mm (>100CFM airflow) || || || $10-15/ea
 |-
 |}

@@ Line 139: / Line 139: @@
 Image:Inside_OEM_battery_from_back_of_car.jpg|Shows the 2 white insulators on the contactors
 </gallery>
 ==Safety Warning & Tips==

@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 Another Paragraph and such, you can get help at our [[Help:Contents#How do I use the Wiki Website]] page <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents more help using the wiki.</ref>  Feel free to simply remove or if you like move all of this example text to the pages discussion article.
-==Electronics Tray==
+=Electronics Tray=
-===Parts Needed===
+==Parts Needed==
 Warning:  This list is a very much a work-in-progress!
@@ Line 56: / Line 56: @@
 {{EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HVPartsList}}
-===Sub Parts===
+==Sub Parts==
-====Diode====
+===Diode===
 The diode must be firmly and correctly mounted to the heatsink.  The diode has a 1/4" stud which passes through the heatsink but does not touch the heatsink.  A shoulder or insulating nylon tube must be placed over the stud where the diode passes through the heatsink.  This is important so the diode does not electrically make contact with the heatsink.  Additionally, 2 electrically insulating, but thermally conductive pads (or mica) must be used on both sides of the heatsink to prevent the diode from making contact on either side of the heatsink.  See photos below for how to mount the diode:
-=====Photos=====
+====Photos====
 <gallery>
 Image:DO-5 Diode.jpg|The DO-5 Diode as it arrives from DigiKey
@@ Line 70: / Line 70: @@
 </gallery>
-====Snubbers====
+===Snubbers===
 Solder together one lead of the .47uF, 500V capacitor and one lead of the 22 ohm 1 watt resistor.  Put heat shrink tubing around the other 2 leads and crimp on ring terminals and solder the crimps to the leads for a better connection.  The snubbers are then placed across the two contactors.
-====Low Voltage Interconnects====
+===Low Voltage Interconnects===
 A list of helpful Molex connector tools on DigiKey can be found [http://sales.digikey.com/scripts/ru.dll?action=pb_view&pb_glue=1014151 here].
 '''Todo'''
-==Outlets and Power Supply==
+=Outlets and Power Supply=
-==Final Connections==
+=Final Connections=
-===Heating Pads===
+==Heating Pads==
 12x15 50 watt heating pads $15-20/ea
-===Connecting the PbA batteries===
+==Connecting the PbA batteries==
-====Parts Needed====
+===Parts Needed===
 * Qty 50 8 AWG crimp on 1/4"(<- check this) ring terminals (probably wise to get a few extra!)
 * 8 AWG wire (list total length used here.)
@@ Line 93: / Line 93: @@
 * 20x BB Battery EVP20-12B 12volt 20ah SLA AGM batteries (2 spares recommended.)
-====Assembly Steps====
+===Assembly Steps===
-===Tapping into OEM Battery===
+==Tapping into OEM Battery==
 {{Disclaimer}}
@@ Line 103: / Line 103: @@
 Tools needed
-* Voltmeter (capable of up to 300 volts DC)
+* Voltmeter (capable of at least 300 volts DC)
 * Ratchet
@@ Line 140: / Line 140: @@
 </gallery>
-====Charge Interlock Relay Wiring====
+===Charge Interlock Relay Wiring===
 ==Safety Warning & Tips==
@@ Line 159: / Line 159: @@
 {{Disclaimer}}
-==References==
+=References=
 <references/>

@@ Line 116: / Line 116: @@
 * optional: other flexible conduit
-# Before attempting to open the OEM battery, the orange service disconnect '''MUST''' be fully removed from the OEM battery.  To do this, lift up on the orange ring.  Once it pops up, push the top part out, away from the battery.  This will remove the service disconnect from the battery.  '''BE AWARE, THERE ARE STILL HIGH, LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE THE BATTERY EVEN THOUGH THE DISCONNECT HAS BEEN REMOVED!'''
+# Before attempting to open the OEM battery, the orange service disconnect '''MUST''' be fully removed from the OEM battery.  To do this, lift up on the orange ring.  Once it pops up, push the top part out, away from the battery.  This will remove the service disconnect from the battery.  Do not re-install the service disconnect until the OEM battery has been closed up.  '''BE AWARE, THERE ARE STILL HIGH, LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE THE BATTERY EVEN THOUGH THE DISCONNECT HAS BEEN REMOVED!'''
 # Take off the support holding the OEM battery in place.  The bolts are found on the driver's side wheel well, on the OEM battery and behind the driver's side rear seat top (the seat top must be removed, see above for information on removing the seat back.)
 # Carefully remove the bolts holding the cover on the driver's side of the OEM battery.  The 2 bolts will need to be removed from where the orange cables come out of the battery to remove the cover.  '''DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE'''
 # Once opened, just beyond where the two orange wires enter the OEM battery there are 2 contactors with 2 white plastic shields on top.  '''NEVER TOUCH THE TWO TERMINALS AT THE SAME TIME''' Using rated, insulated electrician's rubber gloves remove one of the white plastic pieces by lifting straight up.  Using a voltmeter, test the DC voltage between the contactor terminal and ground.  If voltage is present (often > 100 volts DC) keep the multimeter on the terminal until the voltage decreases to below 1 volt.  '''After''' that has been done on one, remove the other white plastic piece and repeat for the other side.  Then check the voltage between all of the contactor terminals (all 4) to ensure they are zero.  '''This step must be repeated any time the orange service plug has been inserted into the battery to ensure safety.
 # Disconnect the negative wire coming from the OEM battery from the contactor.  It is the one fed through the hall effect sensor (see photo.)  The wire must be removed from the hall effect sensor.
-# Take the piece of 6AWG wire with a 6AWG ring connector firmly attached at both ends and feed it through the hall effect sensor and connect it to the contactor where you just removed the OEM negative battery wire.
+# Take the piece of 6AWG wire with a 6AWG ring connector firmly attached at both ends and feed it through the hall effect sensor and connect it to the contactor where you just removed the OEM negative battery wire.  It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
-# Feed in the new #8 AWG wire from the electronics tray through the opening where the 2 orange wires come through.  Attach a #8 AWG ring connector to the wire.
+# Feed in the new #8 AWG wire from the electronics tray through the opening where the 2 orange wires come through.  Attach a #8 AWG ring connector to the wire.  It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
-# Bolt the #6 wire from the negative contactor, the negative wire from the OEM battery and the negative #8 AWG (black) wire from the electronics tray together as shown using a lockwasher (see photo.)
+# Bolt the #6 wire from the negative contactor, the negative wire from the OEM battery and the negative #8 AWG (black) wire from the electronics tray together as shown using a lockwasher (see photo.)  It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
 # Then wrap tightly with electrical tape (preferably orange), so that the entire assembly is covered with several layers of tape.
 # Place a rubber cap on the top and wrap the rubber assembly in tape and attach firmly to the rest of the wire.
 # Next, crimp on a #8 AWG ring terminal to the #8 Red wire coming from the electronics tray.
-# Remove the bolt on the positive contactor's terminal and add the #8 AWG wire as shown (see photo.)
+# Remove the bolt on the positive contactor's terminal and add the #8 AWG wire as shown (see photo.)  It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
 # Replace the white insulators that came off the top of the contactors
 # Route the wire in the same way as the black wire out area where the 2 orange wires run

@@ Line 142: / Line 142: @@
 ====Charge Interlock Relay Wiring====
-==Warning & Tips==
+==Safety Warning & Tips==
 Batteries can be dangerous and can cause serious injury or death and should only be worked on by persons qualified to do so.  Both energy hazards from arcs (shorts) and electrical shock can cause serious injury or be fatal with a battery pack of this size.  Battery packs are always live and cannot be shut off!  The following are safety tips to help prevent arcs and shocks, but they are only tips and should not be taken as a go-ahead to perform work on battery packs.  Extreme caution must be taken as it is very easy to accidentally set something on the battery without thinking or drop something and cause a shock or arc.  Hire a qualified electrician to help for this part if there is any doubt.

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:41, 27 May 2007
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	===Tapping into OEM Battery===		===Tapping into OEM Battery===
		+	{{Disclaimer}}
		+
		+	This step '''MUST''' be performed by someone qualified to work on high voltage systems. Rated rubber electricians gloves should be used for working on the inside of the battery. Please fully read the Safety section before before attempting anything. Lethal voltages are present. Hire a qualified professional for this portion.
		+
		+	'''This section is not finished'''
		+
		+	Tools needed
		+	* Voltmeter (capable of up to 300 volts DC)
		+	* Ratchet
		+
		+	Parts needed
		+	* 3 #6 AWG ring terminal crimps (an extra is good)
		+	* 2 #8 AWG ring terminal crimps (extras are good)
		+	* small 1 foot section of 6 AWG wire (with insulation rated 600v or higher, preferably THHN)
		+	* non-conductive rubber cap
		+	* electrical tape
		+	* several feet of #8 AWG wire with insulation rated 600v or higher
		+	* optional: 3/8" flex tubing
		+	* optional: other flexible conduit
		+
		+	# Before attempting to open the OEM battery, the orange service disconnect '''MUST''' be fully removed from the OEM battery. To do this, lift up on the orange ring. Once it pops up, push the top part out, away from the battery. This will remove the service disconnect from the battery. '''BE AWARE, THERE ARE STILL HIGH, LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE THE BATTERY EVEN THOUGH THE DISCONNECT HAS BEEN REMOVED!'''
		+	# Take off the support holding the OEM battery in place. The bolts are found on the driver's side wheel well, on the OEM battery and behind the driver's side rear seat top (the seat top must be removed, see above for information on removing the seat back.)
		+	# Carefully remove the bolts holding the cover on the driver's side of the OEM battery. The 2 bolts will need to be removed from where the orange cables come out of the battery to remove the cover. '''DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE'''
		+	# Once opened, just beyond where the two orange wires enter the OEM battery there are 2 contactors with 2 white plastic shields on top. '''NEVER TOUCH THE TWO TERMINALS AT THE SAME TIME''' Using rated, insulated electrician's rubber gloves remove one of the white plastic pieces by lifting straight up. Using a voltmeter, test the DC voltage between the contactor terminal and ground. If voltage is present (often > 100 volts DC) keep the multimeter on the terminal until the voltage decreases to below 1 volt. '''After''' that has been done on one, remove the other white plastic piece and repeat for the other side. Then check the voltage between all of the contactor terminals (all 4) to ensure they are zero. '''This step must be repeated any time the orange service plug has been inserted into the battery to ensure safety.
		+	# Disconnect the negative wire coming from the OEM battery from the contactor. It is the one fed through the hall effect sensor (see photo.) The wire must be removed from the hall effect sensor.
		+	# Take the piece of 6AWG wire with a 6AWG ring connector firmly attached at both ends and feed it through the hall effect sensor and connect it to the contactor where you just removed the OEM negative battery wire.
		+	# Feed in the new #8 AWG wire from the electronics tray through the opening where the 2 orange wires come through. Attach a #8 AWG ring connector to the wire.
		+	# Bolt the #6 wire from the negative contactor, the negative wire from the OEM battery and the negative #8 AWG (black) wire from the electronics tray together as shown using a lockwasher (see photo.)
		+	# Then wrap tightly with electrical tape (preferably orange), so that the entire assembly is covered with several layers of tape.
		+	# Place a rubber cap on the top and wrap the rubber assembly in tape and attach firmly to the rest of the wire.
		+	# Next, crimp on a #8 AWG ring terminal to the #8 Red wire coming from the electronics tray.
		+	# Remove the bolt on the positive contactor's terminal and add the #8 AWG wire as shown (see photo.)
		+	# Replace the white insulators that came off the top of the contactors
		+	# Route the wire in the same way as the black wire out area where the 2 orange wires run
		+	# Make sure there is a little slack wire inside the OEM battery. Then, optionally wrap the 3/8" flex tubing around the 2 new wires to the electronics tray and wrap them in orange electrical tape (orange is keeping in standard for high voltage wiring in hybrids.)
		+
		+
		+	<gallery>
		+	Image:OEM_battery_exposed.jpg\|The OEM battery with the support bracket removed
		+	Image:Opening_OEM_battery.jpg\|Removing the OEM battery lid
		+	Image:Inside_OEM_battery_after_tie_in.jpg\|After the OEM battery tie in is done
		+	Image:Inside_OEM_battery_from_back_of_car.jpg\|Shows the 2 white insulators on the contactors
		+	</gallery>

	====Charge Interlock Relay Wiring====		====Charge Interlock Relay Wiring====