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Click show for a short list of the current PHEV conversion and kit options for the Toyota Prius.

For Prius conversion details see the Prius PHEV article and comparisons table.

  1. Ron's Original PriusPlus History and current Contactor Based PriusPlus documentation for DIY projects.
  2. Ryan's PriusBlue is the testbed for DC-DC PFC Based PiPrius kits and documentation for DIY projects.
  3. Toyota OEM Prius PHEV and Prime Could use some work on this page
  4. Enginer China. But the rest of these appear to all be defunct as of 2020?
  5. |~- Hybrids-Plus USA/Colorado/Li -~|~- EnergyCS USA -~|~- Hymotion USA/Canada -~|~- Amberjac UK. -~|~- EDrive USA -~| Peter mentioned Plug-In Conversions |~-

--={ Project Overview }={ 2007 Maker Faire }={ Theory }={ Instructions }={ Parts List }={ RawData }={ Latest News }=--
--={ Doc Process }={ Mechanical }={ Electrical }={ Electronic }={ Interest }={ Talk:PriusPlus Main Discussion }=--

--={ Historic }={ Battery }={ Schematics }={ PseudoCode }={ Photos }=--

Team Photo from the PriusPlus conversion of Sven's Prius from Nov 2006.

This is the home of the PRIUS+ PHEV DIY (Do-it-Yourself) documentation. These pages are currently anonymously editable, which may change in the future. Please feel free to use the Discussion page for general discussion and commentary on the main article. If you would like to add to an existing section use the "edit" link near that topic's heading. Don't forget to use the Summary field to describe your changes. While editing use the "Show Preview" button to make sure your changes look like you expect them to, before you click "Save Page".

Intro Paragraph here maybe with a link to the main PriusPlus article, links to external sites can appear as formatted CalCars, just plain URLs like, or fancy references such as that in the next paragraph.

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Mechanical Sub Parts List

    • Air vents in tire well - This is a quick project that you can do to your car today. Remove spare tire and the two black drain plugs that sit in the tire well. You may have to use a dremmel to open the hole so you can drop in the [Delete later-(Ron I think I found a piece of conduit that will flush mount in here. The PVC pipe can be glued to it. I’ll get you a part number and picture. By doing this a project could be prepped weeks in advance and the spare will still fit in there until the final conversion days.) ] 2” PVC threaded coupling. Next connect the 2” 90 deg. Elbow and then a length of 2” PVC pipe per this photo (add photo showing underside of car with both pipes pointing back to the rear.)
    • Battery box base (Tom)
    • Battery trays (Tom)
    • Plastic parts mounting board (Little Jim)
    • Anti arc mounted to contactor - You will need a (identifying terminology here) capacitor part number (#) and solder one side to a “ ” ohm resistor and a matching length of wire to the other side of the capacitor. Once this has been completed cover the exposed wires with shrink wrap. Finally, crimp ring connectors to each end and solder in place for a better connection. (Add photo)
    • Heating pad power boxes (Ron, can this now be shrunk down to a single three outlet box?)
    • Charger mounting
    • Battery box mounting (Tom)
    • Power cord mounting (Little Jim or Tom)
    • Kil-a-watts meter mounting (Little Jim) Isn’t this just plugged in?
    • Amp meter mounting (Ron is the amp meter still needed? Should we put this as optional?)
    • Diagnostic LEDs mounting - Use Velcro to mount it just inside the glass door under the radio. To run the ribbon cable, open up the dash and run a cable as shown it this diagram. (Make and add diagram.)
    • V4 Screen mounting
    • CAN-View mounting
    • Prius disassembly and reassembly

Mechanical Sub Parts Construction

Battery Trays

Approx. Time Requirement: 10-12 hours

Tools needed
  • Metal Drill Bits: 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 7/32
  • Hacksaw with metal blade (or other method of cutting 1/8 inch aluminum)
  • Drill or Dremmel
  • Drill or Dremmel press recommended
  • Metal file for filing rough edges.
  • Wood saw
  • Pop riviting tool
  • Grinder (either an attachment for Dremel or bench grinder)
Parts needed
  • Aluminum material
    • Either 3/4" or 1" by 1/8" thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections, 1x 4 foot section)
    • 1/4" Aluminum channel iron (1x 8 foot section, 1x 4 foot section)
  • 32 5/32 thick, 1/4 inch grip pop rivits
  • 32 #4 flat head self threading screws at least 1/2 inch long
  • Small piece of plywood for making jig (optional, but makes things easier.)
  • Small pieces of wood for making jig (optional)
  • Wood screws (optional)
Assembly Steps
  1. Cut 4 sections of the 1/4" aluminum channel iron to the exact length of the batteries (should be 7 1/16 inches.) Having the batteries actually present is important for measuring. A total of 16 of these peices will be required for all 4 trays.
  2. Lay out 5 batteries and put the 1/4" aluminum channel irons between the batteries. Measure out the length and cut 2 sections of the aluminum angle irons to the length of the batteries (should be 16 5/16 inches.) A total of 8 of these sections will be required for all 4 trays. See photos below for how to layout the pack.
  3. Layout 5 batteries with the angle irons from above and measure the width and cut the 2 end peices (should be 7 1/4 inches.) A total of 8 of these peices will be required for all 4.
  4. Lay everything out on top of a peice of plywood and double check measurements with batteries set in the tray as shown below. It is important that the end peices are under the peices that run along the length of the tray.
  5. Screw down blocks of wood around outside of the frame as shown to hold the outside angle irons exactly where they are.
  6. Remove the batteries one by one and put in pieces of wood where the batteries were to hold frame and aluminum channel irons in place. This jig will hold all the pieces together while drilling.
  7. Using a small drill press or preferably a Dremmel drill press, drill 2 3/32" holes into each corner (or probably only one if using 3/4" angle irons.)
  8. Once the holes are drilled, remove the top angle iron (the 16 5/16 inch one) and using a 1/8" drill bit, widen the holes so that the #4 screws can pass through them freely (only do this on the longer angle iron, not the bottom!) Then counter-sink with a 7/32" drill bit so that the screw will sit flush in the aluminum (see photo below.)
  9. Put in #4 self threading screws. The screws should grab into the smaller angle iron and hold the angle irons together firmly. The screws will stick out the other side.
  10. Using a cutoff attachment on a Dremmel (or a hacksaw, but Dremmel works much better), cut the screws off. Then grind them down flat using the cut off attachment on a Dremmel or a bench grinder.
  11. Re-insert the finished angle iron frame into jig, and place channel irons in place. Drill 5/32" holes at each end.
  12. Using a pop-riviting tool, insert 5/32" aluminum rivits into the channel irons from the bottom and tighten.
  13. Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 trays.

Battery Box Supports

Approx. Time Requirement:

Tools Needed
  • Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade
Parts Needed
  • Aluminum
    • 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
    • 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip (1x 4 foot section) (optional for extra strength)
Assembly Steps
  1. Cut 4 aluminum angle irons 38 inches long and layout so that 2 trays sit into each pair (see photos) (Warning: Length may be slighly long, haven't actually mounted this yet!)
  2. Optionally cut the aluminum strip to the same length as the angle irons and set vertically in the middle of the assembly. This strip would then be bolted horizontally with the 2 center angle irons in the center and on each side. The idea is to reduce bounce in the center (weakest part) of the battery pack when going over bumps.

This section needs to be finished!

Battery Box Top

Approx. Time Requirement: 10 hours

- Please feel free to edit this, I realize its not all "official" CalCars method, but I'm not sure what the official is.

Tools needed
  • Metal Drill Bits:
  • Chopsaw with metal cutoff blade very helpful (must be capable of 45 degree angles.)
  • Tablesaw with Plexiglass blade, or other method of cutting Plexiglass
  • Drill
  • Metal file for filing rough edges.
  • Dremmel
  • Cutoff attachment for Dremmel
Parts Needed
  • Aluminum material
    • 1 1/2 inch by 1/8 thick aluminum angle iron (2x 8 foot sections)
    • 1 inch or 3/4 inch by 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle iron (1x 4 foot sections -- may have leftovers from trays)
  • Corner brackets - can be found at Mennards in shelving hardware section
  • 24x #8-32 flat head machine screws
  • 16x #8-32 nuts
  • 8x #8-32 x 1/4 inch binding posts
  • 1/4 inch Plexiglass or Lexan sheet, at least 33 inches by 18.5 inches.
  • 4 small non-conductive nylon screw and binding posts (for holding Plexiglass "shields")
Assembly Steps

(These steps may not be completely accurate to the CalCars official method)

  1. Cut 2 strips of Plexiglass (or Lexan) 32.5 inches by 1.5 inches. These peices will act as a sheild between the battery terminals and the aluminum (to prevent shorts.)
  2. Cut opposing 45 degree angle at the end of 2 of the 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron peices to form one of the corners.
  3. Layout the four trays in the frame angle irons (important for getting correct measurements.)
  4. Place 4 batteries in the trays, one in each corner (see photo.)
  5. Make sure to leave space for the middle bolt down and bolts for the frame! (The battery box base isn't finished yet and requires space in the middle!!!)
  6. Set one of the cut angle irons on top of the batteries (be sure not to arc the batteries!) Place the Plexiglass "Shield" in place and use clamps to it there. This allows for accurate measurements.
  7. Lay the other angle iron with the opposing 45 degree angle out and measure the width